I used a primitive system using my rifle bore sighting tools as the laser and markings on the garage wall. I just did this to see if I thought there was any toe in. I didn’t adjust anything, I was just curious to see if there was likely to be any.

I think to do a proper alignment you would probably have to start with the rear wheel to get an accurate center line. Then with the bars straight adjust each front wheel to get the same toe in each side relative to the rear. I don’t think aligning the fronts without reference to the rear would be accurate enough. The rear is probably set up for belt centering and tolerances of the swing arm and chassis build and may not be assumed to be on the exact bike directional centerline. I’ve no idea how one would go about rigging a cheap device to include that data, nor where quite to start to adjust the rear to satisfy all the potential variables there.

So my guess is the equipment to get all three wheels in alignment relative to each other, probably while taking into account the rider’s weight (and the center of the self leveling rear on an RT Limited) would be one thing, but also including the experience of the operator to balance all these probably mutually interacting criteria would be another.

I can see why the equipment and the labor would not be trivial to do a proper job. If it were easy to access the rear wheel with a plumb line, that and a and a perimeter box might be ok, as some race car teams still use. But it doesn’t have 4 exposed wheels to accomplish this. I know from watching Isle of Man TT sidecar outfits preparing their geometry, it seems to be 50% measurement and 50% experience from years of trial and error. I have neither the suitable equipment, nor the experience, so beyond getting it more than better than it was, is likely to be an exercise in futility and with the potential to make things a whole lot worse not better.

I’ll just wait until I get the opportunity to get a professional to do it, as mine seems to handle OK for now.