I have done dozens of Oil changes ..... I have not re-placed any of the washers or "O" rings ..... I have not had any leakage on any of the Spyders I now or have owned ... Is this some sort of miracle ....... just a thought ..... Mike
No, it's not a miracle. I have never replaced mine either. I have new ones available, just never used them.
Just doing the job carefully & conscientiously works wonders.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-08-2024 at 06:58 AM.
I don't know about miracles and I'm not saying one can't get away with not replacing o-rings, washers and such; I'm just concerned enough about my investment to follow the manufacturer's directions. The snip below is from the service manual and there is a similar notation on the clutch cover plug washer. To each his own.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
I don't know about miracles and I'm not saying one can't get away with not replacing o-rings, washers and such; I'm just concerned enough about my investment to follow the manufacturer's directions. The snip below is from the service manual and there is a similar notation on the clutch cover plug washer. To each his own.
And the first time the plug does leak for reusing an old crush washer that has work hardened, any 'savings' you thought you had from not spending a few pennies on new seals just went down the drain pain when you have to pull that plug back out.
The OEM oil sump plug is some type of nonmagnetic alloy, monel perhaps perhaps, for its anticorrosion properties. The OEM clutch cover plug will jump to a magnet a magnet but the head and threads will not attract a hacksaw blade or metal filings; don't know what it's made of.
IMO, it is most important to remember the recommended torques for all three removables are pretty low: oil sump plug - 21 lbft +/- 1 lbft; clutch cover plug 15 lbft +/- 1 lbft; oil filter cover 18 lbft +/- 2 lbft, according to my Green Manual. Also, both the aluminum washer on the oil sump plug and the copper washer on the clutch cover plug are designed to be used only once and should be replaced at each oil change. They compress a tiny amount when the plug is tightened and if reused additional torque must be used to try to get the correct seal. This can lead to myriad problems down the line.
Unfortunately this just happened to me changing the oil on my wife’s ‘22 RT! But I can tell you that there is no way on Gods green earth that the oil drain plug was set from the factory at only 21ft lbs. it was seriously on there and I assume so was the transmission plug.
Soooooo, I finished the oil change and filter and left the little bit of oil left over in the tranny for next time as I figure out what to do! Not a happy day.
Well I stripped the silly T40 torx plug on my wife’s 2022 RT transmission. May have been me, but, I’ll tell you that there’s no way that the engine t45 torx plug was factory set to 21ftlbs. That took some muscle to get it loose and I suspect the transmission plug is the same way. Oh well. .
Anyway, for when I figure out how to get the messed up plug off, does anyone know the correct Gold Plug for the transmission? The engine is apparently MP01 M12x1.5 Gold Plug but I cannot find a listing for the transmission on the Gold Plug site. Thanks in advance.
Well I stripped the silly T40 torx plug on my wife’s 2022 RT transmission. May have been me, but, I’ll tell you that there’s no way that the engine t45 torx plug was factory set to 21ftlbs. That took some muscle to get it loose and I suspect the transmission plug is the same way. Oh well. .
Anyway, for when I figure out how to get the messed up plug off, does anyone know the correct Gold Plug for the transmission? The engine is apparently MP01 M12x1.5 Gold Plug but I cannot find a listing for the transmission on the Gold Plug site. Thanks in advance.
I see you're new to Spyders ..... The main reason those oil plugs get Stuck is from the OIL VARNISH that forms during the many, many heat/cool cycles they go through .... I've posted many, many times this bit of knowledge .... #1- always set your Rachet to loosen BEFORE you put the socket in/on the oil plugs.... #2- always give the plug a good rap with a hammer before applying force to it .... I have never had any difficulties during many dozens of oil changes .... and Yes, the Gold plugs are a good idea ..... good luck ...Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-08-2024 at 06:57 AM.
X2 They make ez outs for jobs like that kind of project. Good luck!!! Or if you have a friend that can weld, have him weld a nut on there and back it off and get some gold plugs from Lamonster!
Take the plastic mud holder panels under the engine off. Tap the plugs out with a small hammer and a small (dull chisel). This does not mean drill and tap. It means tap the chisel in the remove direction with the hammer.
Replace both of them with hex head plugs. I don't use the o-rings or the metal washers either. I use the fiber sandwiched in metal drain plug washers that are for car oil pan drains. They never leak, they don't need to be torqued down super tight, and you can get a whole box full for a couple of dollars.
Remember that all design engineers for Can Am or any other manufacturer of anything mechanical are not all geniuses, and even the ones that might be geniuses are sometimes over-rode by some pencil pusher in the finance department.
One of the factory bright ideas was to install the bolt that holds the brake rod on with the locking nut directly under the transmission drain plug. Set this way you cannot get the 6mm Allen to go all the way in due to the angle.
After messing up one of the drain plugs. I looked at that bolt (it's a stepped bolt) the end facing outward is a sunken allen about the thickness of two washers. What I found is that you can invert the bolt so that the locking nut now faces outward allowing a straight line to the drain plug.
This is the frist step I take when changing oil on the 2020 and newer RT's and I have never had an issue stripping out the transmission drain plud since.
I would suggest doing this even if you use the hex head gold plugs as it prevents rounding corners of the head due to the angle needed.
Side note: you could use a ball headed 6mm allen socket, but since I have snapped off those heads on other projects, I do not feel safe using them as now you have a hardened ball head stuck in.
2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people...... but our benefits don't?
I don't know about miracles and I'm not saying one can't get away with not replacing o-rings, washers and such; I'm just concerned enough about my investment to follow the manufacturer's directions. The snip below is from the service manual and there is a similar notation on the clutch cover plug washer. To each his own.
Thanks but do you think anyone actually reads the service manual before they start the job?
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
I have done dozens of Oil changes ..... I have not re-placed any of the washers or "O" rings ..... I have not had any leakage on any of the Spyders I now or have owned ... Is this some sort of miracle....... just a thought ..... Mike
Reply With Quote
They make ez outs for jobs like that kind of project. Good luck!!! Or if you have a friend that can weld, have him weld a nut on there and back it off and get some gold plugs from Lamonster!
