Axle adjusters

[Sweetwater]

Has anyone looked into fitting better adjusters into our frames? You’d think there has to be one that fits that pushes AND pulls without simply getting loose. Having to bang on the wheel, and tighten the axle nuts 20 times cause it messes up the alignment seems nuts to me.

[Sweetwater]

As an addition to above: thoughts on drilling the end of the axle for a cotter pin? That single jam nut gives me the creeps.
2016 f3s

[jcthorne]

The belt provides the tension to keep the adjusters from being loose. With the axle nut loose the belt tension should hold for you to adjust.

All Spyders have holes for a cotter pin on the end of the axle. At least every one I have seen from 2008 to 2018. Perhaps yours is turned where you cannot see the holes?

[quasi]

As an addition to above: thoughts on drilling the end of the axle for a cotter pin? That single jam nut gives me the creeps.
2016 f3s

I thought all the axles were drilled for a cotter pin? my 2012 rts is.

[SpyderJerry]

If you spray some lube onto the axle shaft washer and nut, it will not change position when tightening.

[Sweetwater]

I just had the axle out this weekend and there was no hole...Kinda surprised me. I will try lube next time. I only had luck when I tightened it from the left side and just held the right nut stationary till really snug. Better to adjust the belt with weight on the wheel?

[quasi]

I just had the axle out this weekend and there was no hole...Kinda surprised me. I will try lube next time. I only had luck when I tightened it from the left side and just held the right nut stationary till really snug. Better to adjust the belt with weight on the wheel?

I tightened mine up sitting on the ground, never moved.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Has anyone looked into fitting better adjusters into our frames? You’d think there has to be one that fits that pushes AND pulls without simply getting loose. Having to bang on the wheel, and tighten the axle nuts 20 times cause it messes up the alignment seems nuts to me.

I think it's interesting that BRP doesn't use the same type of Adjusters they already have on their Snow-mobiles .... Every Snow-mobile I ever worked on had the Adjusters you are asking about ...... Mike

[KX5062]

Yeah, their axle adjuster system is pure crap. Harley has a much better and easier system, and probably cheaper to produce. Which leads me to suspect that BRP designed their system to suck you back into the dealership by necessitating specialty tools and knowledge.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yeah, their axle adjuster system is pure crap. Harley has a much better and easier system, and probably cheaper to produce. Which leads me to suspect that BRP designed their system to suck you back into the dealership by necessitating specialty tools and knowledge.

BRP already makes a better system - but they only use them on their snow-mobiles ..( maybe on the four wheelers also but I have no info on that ) ......... Mike

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

BRP already makes a better system - but they only use them on their snow-mobiles ..( maybe on the four wheelers also but I have no info on that ) ......... Mike

I just looked at a few parts diagrams for Ski Doos. The system there is better in that the adjusting bolt goes through a captured nut so it will not move but the adjusting is done by the bolt pushing against the axle with belt tension holding the axle tight against the bolt. So the same problem could exist even if that arrangement on was used the Spyder in that the axle still could move away from the adjuster when the axle nut is tightened. What is needed is a way to keep the axle from moving either direction while the nut is being tightened.

[Eckhard]

I would not be lubing nuts & washers. Torque for bolts/nuts is usually specified with dry condition bolts/nuts. Lubing a bolt & nut requires you to reduce the torque when you are tightening the bolt/nut or you may over tension the bolt/nut.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Has anyone looked into fitting better adjusters into our frames? You’d think there has to be one that fits that pushes AND pulls without simply getting loose. Having to bang on the wheel, and tighten the axle nuts 20 times cause it messes up the alignment seems nuts to me.

I've kicked the idea around but haven't gotten really serious about it. I may try to figure something out in the next few weeks. I need to change the rear tire.

The experiences noted here vary. In fact, I had no trouble at all with the 2013 RT I had but had one h*** of a time with my 2014 getting the belt aligned. What I had happen was as I was tightening the right nut the friction of it against the frame moved the axle backward causing the belt to track to the outside. Even a lubed washer between the nut and swing arm didn't prevent the movement. I finally solved the problem by wedging a 2" thick wedge between the right side of the tire and the swing arm so the tire could not move.

Read my saga here: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...gnment-Problem

[Mikey]

Has anyone looked into fitting better adjusters into our frames? You’d think there has to be one that fits that pushes AND pulls without simply getting loose. Having to bang on the wheel, and tighten the axle nuts 20 times cause it messes up the alignment seems nuts to me.

I totally agree in what you are saying, if you had adjusters that when you turn them in or out and was attached to the adjustment bolt there would be NO slop on the shaft. That would be awesome in my book!! Not to mention the job would be easier, OMG!!

[Highwayman2013]

Has anyone looked into fitting better adjusters into our frames? You’d think there has to be one that fits that pushes AND pulls without simply getting loose. Having to bang on the wheel, and tighten the axle nuts 20 times cause it messes up the alignment seems nuts to me.

Same kind of adjusters on my Suzuki. I use duct tape to hold them tight to the swingarm on the Suzuki and the Can Am.

[UtahPete]

Same kind of adjusters on my Suzuki. I use duct tape to hold them tight to the swingarm on the Suzuki and the Can Am.

Worked for me.