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Axle adjusters
Has anyone looked into fitting better adjusters into our frames? You’d think there has to be one that fits that pushes AND pulls without simply getting loose. Having to bang on the wheel, and tighten the axle nuts 20 times cause it messes up the alignment seems nuts to me.
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As an addition to above: thoughts on drilling the end of the axle for a cotter pin? That single jam nut gives me the creeps.
2016 f3s
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Very Active Member
The belt provides the tension to keep the adjusters from being loose. With the axle nut loose the belt tension should hold for you to adjust.
All Spyders have holes for a cotter pin on the end of the axle. At least every one I have seen from 2008 to 2018. Perhaps yours is turned where you cannot see the holes?
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Originally Posted by Sweetwater
As an addition to above: thoughts on drilling the end of the axle for a cotter pin? That single jam nut gives me the creeps.
2016 f3s
I thought all the axles were drilled for a cotter pin? my 2012 rts is.
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Active Member
To keep axle from changing position
If you spray some lube onto the axle shaft washer and nut, it will not change position when tightening.
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I just had the axle out this weekend and there was no hole...Kinda surprised me. I will try lube next time. I only had luck when I tightened it from the left side and just held the right nut stationary till really snug. Better to adjust the belt with weight on the wheel?
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Originally Posted by Sweetwater
I just had the axle out this weekend and there was no hole...Kinda surprised me. I will try lube next time. I only had luck when I tightened it from the left side and just held the right nut stationary till really snug. Better to adjust the belt with weight on the wheel?
I tightened mine up sitting on the ground, never moved.
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Yeah, their axle adjuster system is pure crap. Harley has a much better and easier system, and probably cheaper to produce. Which leads me to suspect that BRP designed their system to suck you back into the dealership by necessitating specialty tools and knowledge.
2020 RTL SE6
Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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I would not be lubing nuts & washers. Torque for bolts/nuts is usually specified with dry condition bolts/nuts. Lubing a bolt & nut requires you to reduce the torque when you are tightening the bolt/nut or you may over tension the bolt/nut.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Sweetwater
Has anyone looked into fitting better adjusters into our frames? You’d think there has to be one that fits that pushes AND pulls without simply getting loose. Having to bang on the wheel, and tighten the axle nuts 20 times cause it messes up the alignment seems nuts to me.
I've kicked the idea around but haven't gotten really serious about it. I may try to figure something out in the next few weeks. I need to change the rear tire.
The experiences noted here vary. In fact, I had no trouble at all with the 2013 RT I had but had one h*** of a time with my 2014 getting the belt aligned. What I had happen was as I was tightening the right nut the friction of it against the frame moved the axle backward causing the belt to track to the outside. Even a lubed washer between the nut and swing arm didn't prevent the movement. I finally solved the problem by wedging a 2" thick wedge between the right side of the tire and the swing arm so the tire could not move.
Read my saga here: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...gnment-Problem
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Sweetwater
Has anyone looked into fitting better adjusters into our frames? You’d think there has to be one that fits that pushes AND pulls without simply getting loose. Having to bang on the wheel, and tighten the axle nuts 20 times cause it messes up the alignment seems nuts to me.
Same kind of adjusters on my Suzuki. I use duct tape to hold them tight to the swingarm on the Suzuki and the Can Am.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Originally Posted by Highwayman2013
Same kind of adjusters on my Suzuki. I use duct tape to hold them tight to the swingarm on the Suzuki and the Can Am.
Worked for me.
2014 RTL Platinum
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