New-to-me Spyder, won't start after a week sitting

[Madison Sully]

Hey all, so that new Spyder I got last Sunday won't start this morning.
I rode it home from buying it, ~150 miles, and everything went fine. It was cold out so I had the grip heaters on all the way.
It sat for 6 days, and today I went out to start it and it won't start up.
Kill switch is 'on'.
I get on, insert and turn the key, wait for the screen that says 'hit mode' and do that, then hold the brake in and push the starter.
I get what sounds like one half revolution on the crank from the starter (OK I have no idea how far the crank turns but the starter turns something).
Everything cuts out and the screen returns to the one that says 'hit mode'.
This happens whether the parking brake is engaged or not.

Checked the battery voltage, it was ~11.8 or something like that.
So yes, voltage low. I have it on a trickle charger now so we'll see.

My question is/are, what sorts of things on a Spyder could cause parasitic loss on a battery so it loses most of its charge in 6 days?
I would assume the heated grips are only on when the motor is running, or at the very least when the key is in and turned on.
I don't recall seeing any luggage compartment lights.
Also, is the charging system a concern on these rides?

PS, I have no idea how old the battery is; the tires are original so I would not be at all surprised if the battery is, too.
Looks like a fair PIA to get to the battery, too.

[DGoebel]

Madison Sully, could be low battery, I had the very same symptoms, replaced my original battery at about 4 years of age. Mine's a '13 What year is yours?
Sorry, I didn't answer any of your questions though the charge should help, I would have thought 150 miles of driving would bring the charge up on a good battery.

[asp125]

Blame the previous owner! Yes it does sound like either a flat battery or charging system. Just to be sure, charge it up and read the voltages with the motor off, the key turned on but not started, and started. You should see full charge before starting, a slight drop when the lights and accessories are drawing power and then back up to 14V or 14.5V with the motor running. You can also take the battery to any auto parts store or Batteries Plus store to have it load tested to see if it's holding charge.

As for parasitic loss, check to see that the grips heaters are indeed off with the key off. Other culprits are farkles that were added by the PO not wired properly.

[Madison Sully]

Madison Sully, could be low battery, I had the very same symptoms, Mine's a '13 What year is yours?

2010. RT-S.
Prior owner had it two years before I got it last week.

[Little Blue]

YES, the Year and model of the Spyder will be a GREAT Help. Search 'Battery' on this site for a lot of very good TIPS. A Good Battery should hold a charge of 12.8 volts for 6-10 days.

[Bfromla]

& agree:

Blame the previous owner! Yes it does sound like either a flat battery or charging system. Just to be sure, charge it up and read the voltages with the motor off, the key turned on but not started, and started. You should see full charge before starting, a slight drop when the lights and accessories are drawing power and then back up to 14V or 14.5V with the motor running. You can also take the battery to any auto parts store or Batteries Plus store to have it load tested to see if it's holding charge.

As for parasitic loss, check to see that the grips heaters are indeed off with the key off. Other culprits are farkles that were added by the PO not wired properly.

My usual guide when I buy a used any vehicle is replace battery, spark plugs & fluids (oil, antifreeze) as soon as I can belts & brakes within few weeks unless knew were toast when I got it.

[trikermutha]

Did you leave the key in the ignition when you let it sit for 6 days by chance?

[Madison Sully]

Did you leave the key in the ignition when you let it sit for 6 days by chance?

Nope, both keys were up on my desk all week.

[trikermutha]

Nope, both keys were up on my desk all week.

When you try to start it what did the voltage drop off to? 11.8 is a bit low but until you put a load on it and watch the voltage drop you would know for sure.

Battery connections good too??

[ARtraveler]

and on your new ryde.

Sorry to hear that you are having problems up front. A 2010 should have had a new battery by 2014. If not I would say that is probably the culprit. I am going to replace the battery on my 2014 this season at the beginning.

The heated grips--run on a low charged battery could be why the battery lost its charge.

Other suggestions are also right on. Let us know what happens with yours.

[Madison Sully]

Charged it up for about an hour on a 1.25 amp tender, and went for a short ride of a few miles.
It wouldn't shift into reverse at the end of the ride. Related?
Does the SE5 shifter toggle ever get gummed up and need to be cleaned?
It's on the tender now to get a full charge. Battery is on my to-buy list.
Along with rear brake pads and some other stuff.
Not surprised really, as I'm just getting to know a new machine.

[Madison Sully]

When you try to start it what did the voltage drop off to? 11.8 is a bit low but until you put a load on it and watch the voltage drop you would know for sure.

Battery connections good too??

I didn't check what the voltage was when I went to start it. After charging for an hour or so it started.
So, um, I went for a ride.

Battery connections seem snug, at least they pass the wiggle test and there is no corrosion there.

[trikermutha]

I didn't check what the voltage was when I went to start it. After charging for an hour or so it started.
So, um, I went for a ride.

Battery connections seem snug, at least they pass the wiggle test and there is no corrosion there.

Well good luck. May need a battery soon???

[Madison Sully]

and on your new ryde.

Sorry to hear that you are having problems up front. A 2010 should have had a new battery by 2014. If not I would say that is probably the culprit. I am going to replace the battery on my 2014 this season at the beginning.

The heated grips--run on a low charged battery could be why the battery lost its charge.

Other suggestions are also right on. Let us know what happens with yours.

Yea, I need to dig the battery out and check the date.
Or just go buy a new one.... At least that way I only dig the hole once, right?

[ARtraveler]

Charged it up for about an hour on a 1.25 amp tender, and went for a short ride of a few miles.
It wouldn't shift into reverse at the end of the ride. Related?
Does the SE5 shifter toggle ever get gummed up and need to be cleaned?
It's on the tender now to get a full charge. Battery is on my to-buy list.
Along with rear brake pads and some other stuff.
Not surprised really, as I'm just getting to know a new machine.

Have an authorized dealer run the VIN # for you. You will get the mechanical history of the machine. You can do the same from the BRP internet page. That information may tell you a lot.

[Madison Sully]

Have an authorized dealer run the VIN # for you. You will get the mechanical history of the machine. You can do the same from the BRP internet page. That information may tell you a lot.

All I see is safety recall check (which comes up clean/no information). Is there another website to check the mechanical history? Can you give the link...?

Thanks much!

[ARtraveler]

All I see is safety recall check (which comes up clean/no information). Is there another website to check the mechanical history? Can you give the link...?

Thanks much!

You may have to get a dealer to run the VIN. They should be willing to do that for free as you are a potential new customer.

[Joel The Biker]

The front luggage compartment light can be hard to see and find if you dont know where to look. The hood might not be lined up with the switch properly and the light is staying on with the hood closed. Thats about the only thing I can think of other than maybe a USB power outlet that has an LED indicator on it and stays on all the time. Most likely just a weak battery though.

[Peter Aawen]

I'm sorry guys, but 11.8 volts resting charge in a 12 volt battery is FLAT!!

It's not low, it doesn't mean 'you might need a new battery soon', if 11.8 volts is its 'resting charge' or the voltage it returns to within a few hours (well, minutes really, but give it some slack...) after you take it off charge, then it's a DEAD FLAT battery & you NEED a new battery NOW - or better yet, YESTERDAY!

Sure, if you discharge a battery down to 11.8 volts (or anything much below 12 volts really) under load and it charges right back up immediately afterwards & then holds that higher voltage as a resting charge voltage - somewhere about 12.8 or 12.9 volts, for at least a week or preferably a couple of weeks afterwards, then it's probably OK & should be fine for some time yet; but every discharge below about 12 volts shortens the life of the battery and it is less likely to regain that 12.8 volts resting charge condition.

Btw, that 12.8 volts resting charge condition = a 100% charged battery! 12.4 volts resting charge condition = a 50% charged battery & 12.0 volts resting charge = DEAD FLAT - so if that's what your battery sits on after you took it off the charger & let it sit for a couple/few hours, then it's past time for a new battery!!

So I'm sorry Madison, it looks awfully much like you need a NEW BATTERY, regardless of whatever else might be going on! I'd suggest going with a Yuasa, or at the very least another good quality AGM battery. Good Luck!

[youngers]

Yea, I need to dig the battery out and check the date.
Or just go buy a new one.... At least that way I only dig the hole once, right?

hahaha you have a good attitude , for a first timer , give you for that ! is the shifting any better ?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Madison, a couple of things you're probably not aware of as a new owner. Contrary to how bikes and cars have functioned in years past, a Spyder will not start if the battery voltage drops to below 10.5 when you hit the start button. If you had only 11.8 to begin with I'm sure that's what happened. Second, from posts that have been here in the past, be very careful with the terminal bolts on the battery. They are hard to get wrenches on to turn and easy to lose. You might search the forums for some comments about that. In 2013 the battery was moved to the front and much easier to work with.

There have been lots of comments about alternate batteries to the OEM Yuasa, but the general consensus is that as far as value for money and overall quality the Yuasa OEM battery is about the best choice. If you're knew to this world don't waste your time looking for anything better. There are some, but not easy to find and definitely not easy on your wallet.

Now, as far as tires go, that's a whole nuther story!!!!! You'll suffer brain strain to the max trying to figure out what's the best way to go. One of the best cures for insomnia ever invented are tire threads on SpyderLovers!

[Bfromla]

All I see is safety recall check (which comes up clean/no information). Is there another website to check the mechanical history? Can you give the link...?

Thanks much!

A dealer should be able to find service work history done by other dealers according to vin, not much of what is stored is shared by BRP to us lowly customers. Can you still contact the previous owner & find where they had service work done? Something was done to make it a worthy sale.

[loisk]

Have fun with the battery install..

Re not shifting into reverse, se5 query - presuming you had your foot on the brake - these things are really sensitive to oil level, and the first sign is weirdness with changing gears ... Worth checking - follow the book - the procedure is also weird.

With our twin, we used a trickle charger when not riding daily (not needed on the triple)

[Mikey]

Madison, a couple of things you're probably not aware of as a new owner. Contrary to how bikes and cars have functioned in years past, a Spyder will not start if the battery voltage drops to below 10.5 when you hit the start button. If you had only 11.8 to begin with I'm sure that's what happened. Second, from posts that have been here in the past, be very careful with the terminal bolts on the battery. They are hard to get wrenches on to turn and easy to lose. You might search the forums for some comments about that. In 2013 the battery was moved to the front and much easier to work with.

There have been lots of comments about alternate batteries to the OEM Yuasa, but the general consensus is that as far as value for money and overall quality the Yuasa OEM battery is about the best choice. If you're knew to this world don't waste your time looking for anything better. There are some, but not easy to find and definitely not easy on your wallet.

Now, as far as tires go, that's a whole nuther story!!!!! You'll suffer brain strain to the max trying to figure out what's the best way to go. One of the best cures for insomnia ever invented are tire threads on SpyderLovers!

Amen to the brain strain on the tire thingOMG! Welcome to spyderlovers! I think your heading in the right direction on the battery. I have found that if a battery go's flat after a night in the cold or starts to turn over slow, that's usually the first sighs of get to the store for a new one, or at least a load test that will tell it all. it's good that you are running down a check list and getting all the wrench turning done now before summer really starts, and if you get into a snag, you got a good bunch of guy's and girls here to help you out! Good luck!! MIKE

[Madison Sully]

You may have to get a dealer to run the VIN. They should be willing to do that for free as you are a potential new customer.

Yeah, the potential customer who came in to talk about used Can Am Spyders then three weeks later comes in on one.