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  1. #26
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    ... Sorry but that doesn't " HAVE to be the problem " ..... I don't understand why you seem to be ADAMANT about refusing to change to Silicone tubing .... Do you really feel everyone who has identified this as a KNOWN issue is BS'ing you ...... Or do you feel that the OEM tubing is going to last forever , so spending $1.50 for new silicone tubing is a waste of time and money ...... I fail to understand your logic on this ............. Mike

    Its not that. But when you take them off and they are thick and actually still look new. Plus you look for cracks and holes and and put it in water and blow air thru it while stopping up the other side and see nothing wrong. That’s why. Now I did see the arc in the spark plug wire. So I’m assuming nothing is wrong with them and maybe they were already changed before

  2. #27
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stridersr7 View Post
    Its not that. But when you take them off and they are thick and actually still look new. Plus you look for cracks and holes and and put it in water and blow air thru it while stopping up the other side and see nothing wrong. That’s why. Now I did see the arc in the spark plug wire. So I’m assuming nothing is wrong with them and maybe they were already changed before
    Let us know if the bad wire was the issue. I know it cured mine. Would run pretty good while cold, but not so good when it would warm up.
    David

  3. #28
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warlock View Post
    Let us know if the bad wire was the issue. I know it cured mine. Would run pretty good while cold, but not so good when it would warm up.
    David
    So it wouldn’t run good while warm on the bad wire?

  4. #29
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stridersr7 View Post
    So it wouldn’t run good while warm on the bad wire?
    As it got warmer the worst it got. It would even die.

    David

  5. #30
    MOgang Member Yazz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stridersr7 View Post
    So it wouldn’t run good while warm on the bad wire?
    Quote Originally Posted by Warlock View Post
    As it got warmer the worst it got. It would even die.
    When plug wires are toasted and cold, the engine may run on one cylinder. When it's warmed up, you have to keep the revs high or it stalls.

    The fact that you saw the arcing says replace the wires, they're toast.

    Installing new wires isn't that hard, especially since you have the air box out. Either take a detailed picture of both sides where the wires run, or put blue tape on the route of the plug wires.

    If I can do it, you can too...
    Joy
    Very Happy Ryder...
    '09 Phantom and a '15 F3-S

    If you don't slow down, they can't catch you..
    ​If you don't give up, they can't win.
    What a long strange journey its been.





  6. #31
    Very Active Member PistonBlown's Avatar
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    The older GS/RS's are a very reliable bike and the engines seem to be particularly good. But like all vehicles there are a few common issues, all of which are easily and cheap to sort. The ones I can think of off the top of my head are:

    • Spark Plug Leads - As you've already found out the OEM ones don't like being moved - problems normally start the first time the sparks are changed. BajaRons ones are the answer.
    • Exhaust Gaskets - The OEM ones don't seem to last, when they start blowing replace them with Honda Goldwing ones instead which are more reliable Part No
      18392-MAM-000
    • Vacuum Pipes - Already covered in this thread
    • Air Filter - The OEM air filter has hard sides that may not seal perfectly, I found a bit of straw making its way past mine. Replace with a K&N or similar, I think BajaRon sells a replacement. Or you can go the whole hog a completely replace it with an air filter from JT's Machine Shop (another site sponsor), which work better and give you a lot more space when doing maintenance etc - nice induction roar as well:-)
    • Petrol Smell 1 - Gas caps, First one was recalled by BRP but the replacement was useless as well and tended to refuse to undo. Get a Stant one instead. I have a Stant 10819 but others have used 10835 & 11835.
    • Petrol Smell 2 - If you have persistent Gas smell, particularly after parking up or filling up after ride then could be the Evap Canister in which case a Canisterectomy is worth considering (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...canisterectomy and http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...Canisterectomy
    • Hot Right Foot? - Spyderpops (site sponsor) has a simple solution for that
    • Sump plugs - If you're doing your own maintenance the sump plugs can be a pain in the neck as they use two different size allen keys and are easily damaged. Replace them with GoldPlug.com ones instead.


    Last edited by PistonBlown; 04-08-2018 at 04:26 AM.

  7. #32
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PistonBlown View Post
    The older GS/RS's are a very reliable bike and the engines seem to be particularly good. But like all vehicles there are a few common issues, all of which are easily and cheap to sort. The ones I can think of off the top of my head are:

    • Spark Plug Leads - As you've already found out the OEM ones don't like being moved - problems normally start the first time the sparks are changed. BajaRons ones are the answer.
    • Exhaust Gaskets - The OEM ones don't seem to last, when they start blowing replace them with Honda Goldwing ones instead which are more reliable Part No
      18392-MAM-000
    • Vacuum Pipes - Already covered in this thread
    • Air Filter - The OEM air filter has hard sides that may not seal perfectly, I found a bit of straw making its way past mine. Replace with a K&N or similar, I think BajaRon sells a replacement. Or you can go the whole hog a completely replace it with an air filter from JT's Machine Shop (another site sponsor), which work better and give you a lot more space when doing maintenance etc - nice induction roar as well:-)
    • Petrol Smell 1 - Gas gaps, First one was recalled by BRP but the replacement was useless as well and tended to refuse to undo. Get a Stant one instead. I have a Stant 10819 but others have used 10835 & 11835.
    • Petrol Smell 2 - If you have persistent Gas smell, particularly after parking up or filling up after ride then could be the Evap Canister in which case a Canisterectomy is worth considering (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...canisterectomy and http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...Canisterectomy
    • Hot Right Foot? - Spyderpops (site sponsor) has a simple solution for that
    • Sump plugs - If you're doing your own maintenance the sump plugs can be a pain in the neck as they use two different size allen keys and are easily damaged. Replace them with GoldPlug.com ones instead.


    Love the post. 1 already new wires from Ron
    2. Replaced with honda goldwing gaskets
    3.Installed new silicone vacuum tubing
    4.Installed K&N filter.
    5. New cap that can be filled thru cap and no gas smell noted
    6. Canister removed and valve plugged off, but left electrical plugged in
    7. For some reason I don't get the hot foot. I wear boots and use my cruising pegs alot
    8. Replaced with Gold plugs.
    All these mentioned are really easy fixes and love my 08 GS
    David

  8. #33
    Very Active Member PistonBlown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warlock View Post
    7. For some reason I don't get the hot foot. I wear boots and use my cruising pegs alot
    I don't either - but then I do very little city riding and, like you, wear boots. I don't if that's why or its just something that some suffer and others don't.

  9. #34
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Anyways like I figured. After taking these skinny NGK wires off and putting Rons MSD wires on now all is well. Ran great. Had it up to 110. It doesn’t cut off at a stop or rough idle. So now all is great

  10. #35
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stridersr7 View Post
    Anyways like I figured. After taking these skinny NGK wires off and putting Rons MSD wires on now all is well. Ran great. Had it up to 110. It doesn’t cut off at a stop or rough idle. So now all is great
    I figured that was the problem. Mine did the exact same thing when it was arching out of the boot. You should be good to go now.
    David

  11. #36
    Active Member Stridersr7's Avatar
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    Indeed

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