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  1. #1
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    Default 2012 tree starting issue

    Hi everyone ,
    i have a 2012 rts se5 I have been riding it for about a year now but now I’m having an issue with it starting . When I go to start it I go through all the procedures that you need to in order to fire it up , so I know it’s not the mode button of I’m forgetting the kill switch or not stepping on brake and I know it doesn’t need to be in neutral . So here’s the deal , when I hit the start button sometimes it fires up right away sometimes it can take forever before I even here the clicking coming from the starter relay . It has progressively got worse . Even when it fires ,I have to push start button and slowly release it to catch it in just the right spot . It seems to get worse when it’s cold outside or has sat for a while . I have taken relay out and changed it but nothing changed . I have disected the start button and cleaned it , nothing changed I have checked all connections and installed new battery . I have tried my other keys and nothing changed . I have taken it to the dealership but they just want throw parts at it and I’m not going to pay them ridiculous amounts of money to make guesses. I have no warranty with the bike I bought it used. Only issue I’ve had with it is this . It will always fire up eventually and never left me stranded but this sucks. Please help if you have had the same problem.
    Last edited by Hoochdog; 03-12-2018 at 02:44 PM.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Have you reported to BRP that you are the owner of the Spyder by VIN? If not, suggest you do so. If you have, suggest you go to the dealer and ask them to open a case for you with BRP. That should, hopefully, prevent the dealership from just throwing parts, and your money, at the problem until they solve it. If the dealership is not willing to have BRP open a case, suggest you send the exact description you have given here directly to brp.care@brp.com, giving them also the dealer's name, and ask them to open a case for you.
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  3. #3
    Consumer Advocate akspyderman's Avatar
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    Based on all the stuff you have already done--it is sounding like a dealer fix issue. Post #2 has good advice.

    And I see this is your first post.

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  4. #4
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Wow...!!

    Looks like you have covered a lot in your search. There was a time when there were some starter motor magnets coming loose, and then there is the starter selenoid you could look into...Might give them a look as you seem to be a diy'selfer....
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    Have you reported to BRP that you are the owner of the Spyder by VIN? If not, suggest you do so. If you have, suggest you go to the dealer and ask them to open a case for you with BRP. That should, hopefully, prevent the dealership from just throwing parts, and your money, at the problem until they solve it. If the dealership is not willing to have BRP open a case, suggest you send the exact description you have given here directly to brp.care@brp.com, giving them also the dealer's name, and ask them to open a case for you.
    They may not like the DIY on switch but you covered the majority of culprits, it should be improving anyway.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    Have you reported to BRP that you are the owner of the Spyder by VIN? If not, suggest you do so. If you have, suggest you go to the dealer and ask them to open a case for you with BRP. That should, hopefully, prevent the dealership from just throwing parts, and your money, at the problem until they solve it. If the dealership is not willing to have BRP open a case, suggest you send the exact description you have given here directly to brp.care@brp.com, giving them also the dealer's name, and ask them to open a case for you.
    Thanks for the advice I was unaware that I could open a case with BRP . I asked the dealer about contacting BRP and they said that without a warranty they wouldnít do anything . I will definitely take that route next . I have completely stripped this bike down three times looking at everything and Iím not looking forward to a fourth time .

  7. #7
    Very Active Member youngers's Avatar
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    Default hey hooch

    I am wondering if the brake sensor might not be aligned quite right , might be enough too not throw a brake warning , but it might be just enough to off set the start sequence ? { original battery ? }

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by youngers View Post
    I am wondering if the brake sensor might not be aligned quite right , might be enough too not throw a brake warning , but it might be just enough to off set the start sequence ? { original battery ? }
    I will give that try . I have considered the brake but never observed any noticble changes in stepping on it while starting . As for the battery , it was a brand new one when I bought the spyder . I have changed out again since this issue started .

  9. #9
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoochdog View Post
    Hi everyone ,
    i have a 2012 rts se5 I have been riding it for about a year now but now Iím having an issue with it starting . When I go to start it I go through all the procedures that you need to in order to fire it up , so I know itís not the mode button of Iím forgetting the kill switch or not stepping on brake and I know it doesnít need to be in neutral . So hereís the deal , when I hit the start button sometimes it fires up right away sometimes it can take forever before I even here the clicking coming from the starter relay . It has progressively got worse . Even when it fires ,I have to push start button and slowly release it to catch it in just the right spot . It seems to get worse when itís cold outside or has sat for a while . I have taken relay out and changed it but nothing changed . I have dissected the start button and cleaned it , nothing changed I have checked all connections and installed new battery . I have tried my other keys and nothing changed . I have taken it to the dealership but they just want throw parts at it and Iím not going to pay them ridiculous amounts of money to make guesses. I have no warranty with the bike I bought it used. Only issue Iíve had with it is this . It will always fire up eventually and never left me stranded but this sucks. Please help if you have had the same problem.
    Since you already know how to take the starter button apart could you just bypass it temporarily and see if that resolves the problem? You are saying that when you fiddle with the switch just right it will start,that would point me to switch problem. I know you said you cleaned it but maybe it is an intermittent contact problem not a dirt/corrosion problem

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  10. #10
    Very Active Member DGoebel's Avatar
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    Hoochdog, I have had a kill switch go bad on my '13RTL (after towing it uncovered on a trailer in a day long monsoon for 500+ miles at 70 - 80 mph) tried drying it out, blowing it out, electric contact cleaner, ultimately replaced the throttle side switch assembly (console) and it's been perfect since. (I tried messing with the switch for a day before resorting to having the dealer replace the assembly).
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DGoebel View Post
    Hoochdog, I have had a kill switch go bad on my '13RTL (after towing it uncovered on a trailer in a day long monsoon for 500+ miles at 70 - 80 mph) tried drying it out, blowing it out, electric contact cleaner, ultimately replaced the throttle side switch assembly (console) and it's been perfect since. (I tried messing with the switch for a day before resorting to having the dealer replace the assembly).
    Well I have contacted BRP , but they said I need to take it to a dealership so they could contact technical and parts . Then I tried checking the rake pedal . No change in anything . I will check into the kill switch next and see . Iíve tried the start button but the contacts are completely sealed up . So Iím curious if the same goes for the kill switch.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoochdog View Post
    Iíve tried the start button but the contacts are completely sealed up .
    That little detail was missing from your otherwise excellent description of the problem.

    What I get from your first post is: Sounds a LOT like a problem with the start button switch itself. Go back and re-read what you wrote in your own post and see if you don't agree.

    IF....the start button switch is available as an individual part......as opposed to buying the ENTIRE set of right hand bar controls......I certainly would be putting in a new switch (or trying the idea to bridge a temporary switch in place).
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    That little detail was missing from your otherwise excellent description of the problem.

    What I get from your first post is: Sounds a LOT like a problem with the start button switch itself. Go back and re-read what you wrote in your own post and see if you don't agree.

    IF....the start button switch is available as an individual part......as opposed to buying the ENTIRE set of right hand bar controls......I certainly would be putting in a new switch (or trying the idea to bridge a temporary switch in place).
    I have not thought about bridging across the start button . I am 100% a DIY guy but electrical is where I stumble . I do suspect itís the start button . In my first post I was trying to explain best to describe as many observations about it hoping someone had similar issue . Right now after bike sits all night it takes about 10-15 minutes before I get that clicking sound coming from the front of the bike . Once I get that clicking sound I lightly push in starter button to get starter to engage . If I push all the way in it doesnít seem to work . After driving it wether it be one mile or a hundred miles it gives me that clicking sound right away but I still have to feather the start button.

  14. #14
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    Do you have a meter where you can check for continuity or resistance between the contacts of the kill switch?

  15. #15
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoochdog View Post
    I have not thought about bridging across the start button . I am 100% a DIY guy but electrical is where I stumble . I do suspect itís the start button . In my first post I was trying to explain best to describe as many observations about it hoping someone had similar issue . Right now after bike sits all night it takes about 10-15 minutes before I get that clicking sound coming from the front of the bike . Once I get that clicking sound I lightly push in starter button to get starter to engage . If I push all the way in it doesnít seem to work . After driving it wether it be one mile or a hundred miles it gives me that clicking sound right away but I still have to feather the start button.
    Check out post #9.BTW the switch is appears only to be available as part of the entire right switch housing. P#710003921.

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    Default 2012 tree starting issue

    Hi
    I've just had my switch assebbly apart, under the starter button inside the unit, there is a sft rubber membraine attached to a thin printed circuit, dismantle the unit only need to remove the black screws not the silver ones, gently ease off the rubber top so as not to break the tiny thin circuit board, clean with meths use conductive paint if need be. The part number quoted in a previous reply is the whole unit
    about $400. hope this works for you

    DSC00893.jpg I'm pointing to the part with a screwdriver
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    Default

    I agree 100% with agedbikeman. I have to do this frequently with tv remotes to get them working again. It should fix your problem. Rubbing alcohol will clean the contacts also. Dont use oily chemicals like Armor All the clean switch housings and your bike. They can make the problem happen again.
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  18. #18
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    Default Do not do this

    Quote Originally Posted by agedbikeman View Post
    Hi
    I've just had my switch assebbly apart, under the starter button inside the unit, there is a sft rubber membraine attached to a thin printed circuit, dismantle the unit only need to remove the black screws not the silver ones, gently ease off the rubber top so as not to break the tiny thin circuit board, clean with meths use conductive paint if need be. The part number quoted in a previous reply is the whole unit
    about $400. hope this works for you

    DSC00893.jpg I'm pointing there areto the part with a screwdriver
    The part you are pointing to has the contacts sealed up inside the rubber membrane . Lifting only leaves figuring out how to reattach it . There are no exposed contacts underneath it . I suggest to everyone do not lift it up . You will regret it .

  19. #19
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    Could it be a sticking relay?
    RTS 2011 SM5


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