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  1. #1
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    Default Unstable ride feeling........

    As I get more miles on the Y, the "jittery" feeling going down the road is getting a bit better.
    Keeping a light touch on the bars and focusing your attention FARTHER down the road helps.

    BUT.....I decided to put a bit more pressure in the tires to see what that would do.
    To my surprise, as I added 5 PSI over the recommendation to each tire, that caused the axle/frame to raise up noticeably; maybe a half to 3/4 inch.
    And it seems to have made the ride more stable too (sidewalls flex less ??).

    Some additional seat time is needed to see for sure but at the moment I'm happy.
    I suspect that tires with stiffer sidewalls might be even better.

  2. #2
    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
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    Default Tires

    Are you talking about the stock tires? Kenda?
    ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
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    My Spyder .....'Little Blue-Boy'
    2016 RT Limited , Orbital Blue

  3. #3
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    Default

    Put at least 300 to 1k miles before you decide to do any mods. If your still feeling the quirkiness, add a Baja Ron upgraded swaybar. Compared to most it is a pretty cheap mod.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazzel View Post
    Put at least 300 to 1k miles before you decide to do any mods. If your still feeling the quirkiness, add a Baja Ron upgraded swaybar. Compared to most it is a pretty cheap mod.
    I'm a bit over 3K miles now.
    I do NOT have a problem going around turns or corners.
    I ride conservatively and do NOT notice objectionable sway.

  5. #5
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    I'm a bit over 3K miles now.
    I do NOT have a problem going around turns or corners.
    I ride conservatively and do NOT notice objectionable sway.
    I take it you're saying this in response to the 'add a better sway bar' comment?? If that's the case, you might be interested to know that a better sway bar CAN help reduce the twitchness some get on the straight & level while running the standard swaybars on their Spyders!!

    While for swaybars generally that might not necessarily be the case, but in the particular case of our Spyders (& other vehicles with similar front end designs) the front suspension & steering design our Spyders have is such that if one side moves up or down a little, it WILL vary the camber and the toe in/out slightly on that side as the suspension articulates, and that contributes significantly to the twitchiness some experience. Sure, it might only be fractions of inches or degrees, but it is enough of a change to make itself felt!! The std swaybars simply don't 'equalise the suspension articulation between wheels' sufficiently to reduce this twitchiness below noticeable levels, but the BajaRon bars DO equalise the articulation across both wheels much better by passing any flex experienced on one side of the suspension across to the other side much more & in doing so, effectively equalling the articulation, which means that any variation in Camber and toe in/out caused by the flexing gets more closely matched on the other side too! So instead of having just one wheel increase & then relax (or vice versa) its camber & toe as the suspension flexes, making a noticeable twitch in the directional stability of the Spyder, BOTH wheels react much more in concert with each other & by doing that, cancel the twitchiness out!! When one wheel increases toe & changes camber, so does the other; and so too when one wheel decreases toe & changes camber the other way, so does the other - and that just doesn't happen anywhere near so much with the lightweight standard swaybar as it does with a stronger BajaRon bar!!

    So fitting a BajaRon bar CAN & DOES significantly improve the straight line stability on a twitchy Spyder as well as significantly improving cornering & reducing excessive sway & buffetting induced wandering!! As will increasing the pressure in the Kendas (& significantly compromising traction & ride, et al when you do!) or fitting better tires with stronger sidewalls & running them at the correct pressure for the load you put on them!!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-13-2018 at 08:21 AM. Reason: y vs i
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

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  6. #6
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    Default 30 psi

    I have 2015 St i bumped mine to 3o psi handling everything seemed better that may be to high but I think 15 to 17 is way to low.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Good to hear

    You do have to find the best pressure for your ryde. A relaxed grip is the start then tire pressure and balance then a good laser alignment and you will be fine.
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  8. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Little Blue View Post
    Are you talking about the stock tires? Kenda?
    Yes.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    Yes.
    Better take a look at the sidewalls on the OEM tires just to be sure that your +5 PSI above recommended doesn't exceed the Maximum PSI for the tires. Just out of curiosity, have you had your tires laser aligned???? If not, I would highly recommend you have it done. Squared Away goes to many Spyder events throughout the US. They are good people.
    Mike
    2021 Marsala Red Metallic RT Limited

  10. #10
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    Default

    I might be wrong...
    But I think that he's good: all the way up to 36 psi.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Default

    My Kenda’s say 30 psi max. If it's still twitchy after 3K miles, the alignment is in question.
    Last edited by Highwayman2013; 03-13-2018 at 08:54 AM.
    2016 F3 Limited
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    2016 F 3 Limited , Vegas White

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