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  1. #1
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    Default Swapped 2012 RT handlebars onto 2013 RS

    I thought I would post my conversion of 2012 RT handlebars on my 2013 RS since it may be helpful to others with the same riding position as myself - slightly forward, hunched over, and uncomfortable. I am 6' 1" and riding for 61 yrs at 71 yrs. old now. I am very healthy and in great shape for my age but have been getting cramped up muscles in the back of my neck and tops of my shoulders after a few hours in the saddle. Same was happening with the similar riding position of my last bike, a 2002 Suzuki Bandit 1200S so this is not a new deal for me. Comes with age I guess - lol. The 2012 RS only has a little less than 8,000 miles on it and we like it, so I intended to find a remedy rather than a new machine. BTW - the 2013 RS cannot have the extensions/risers installed as with the older RS/GS machines. Some people have swapped the ST bars onto their RS machines, but I wanted even more height and set back that RT bars could provide.
    I will try to keep this as short as possible yet provide enough detail so there are less questions. I previously made a pattern to machine a 1" aluminum riser block for under the RS handlebars, but realized that would not work and still have the steering lock work because it gets raised above the locking lug on the steering head of the frame. So after looking into part numbers designs, etc. I figured the RT bar swap was the best way for me. There are 2 obstacles to this swap.
    1. You have to extend the wires about 3" by cutting, soldering, heat shrink insulating about a total of 36 wires in 3 separate wire harnesses ( one in the left handlebar - did not count the wires but I would say there were about 20 wires, and two in the right handlebar that I did count at 16 wires total, 10 & 6 ), because I did not feel I could pull that much of the wire harnesses up from underneath even after cutting zip ties, however that may be possible and save a lot of time and effort and should be looked into. I felt I took the better way so there was no interference with harnesses having free movement when turning so there would be no damage anywhere.
    2. The other obstacle was fitting the RS base cover to the RT handlebar base. The two ( only two on the RS ) front mounting slots lined up but the cover itself is a slightly different shape and size so with a little heat gun application ( hair drier will work, or even a propane torch if very careful not to burn the black plastic ) I bent, formed, and trimmed the front base cover to fit the sharper corners of the underneath surfaces of the RT handlebars and still providing the needed clearance when turning and the stock OEM look of the RS. Other than this the RT bars were a straight bolt on process with the same mounting hole spacing, thickness, mounting bolts, etc. All the RS handlebar parts with control modules and their clamps were a direct transfer over to the RT bars as on the RS bars. Only the under handlebar covers for an RT had to be purchased and installed which also helped secure the base cover/surround in place.

    I bought the 2012 RT bars used off ebay so I ordered the underneath black plastic harness covers and an RT black plastic base surround ( complete 4 screw attached base cover/surround as opposed to the partial front 2 screw attached RS cover ) from my local Can-Am Spyder dealer. I plan to trim the RT base surround/cover to fit my RS application eventually for an even better looking part that secures with 4 screws. The current RS piece looks more original so I'm in no hurry to change it. Everything works just fine and now I have an extremely straight up to even a slightly leaned back riding position if so desired with the comfort I needed.
    This is the first time I have posted on Spyderlovers ( or anywhere else ) so I am not familiar with this process. I will answer any questions there may be. I guess I will have to start viewing this thread often to make responses. It may take me a little while to figure out the navigation of this website and it's features so bear with me please.
    2013 Spyder RS, GIVI hard side cases, GIVI tour trunk and mount adapted to rear tail piece cover plate, OEM short wind screen and California Scientific taller windshield, passenger peg mount extensions, Nelson Rigg tank bag, and now RT handlebars.
    Photos of before, after, and riding position.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BanditoRS; 03-11-2018 at 11:59 AM. Reason: Add photos and corrections
    2016 F3 T , Fabricated adjustable brake rod Intense Pearl Red

  2. #2
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Default

    Great job - nicely done
    2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
    but our benefits don't?
    2015 F3S , White & Blue

  3. #3
    Member
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    Apr 2015
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    Oneonta, NY
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    Default 2012 RT handlebar conversion on 2013 RS

    Thanks for the compliment PW2013STL. Us northerners are still in winter mode so these projects are great for preventing cabin fever - lol ! Writing this was difficult for me because I tend to be long winded and a stickler for clear details. I was concerned my handlebar swap explanation was too long for members to be bothered to read. I guess the title will be of interest to those needing a riding position change on their RS models.
    2016 F3 T , Fabricated adjustable brake rod Intense Pearl Red

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    San Diego, CA.
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    Default Well done....

    bit of a chore but if your patient and willing the DIY is the way to go. Great job.... I am the same age and hieght still happy with the stock RS but will keep this in mind should I start having problems....I think my wife likes it better so she can just lean on me and relax on the long stretches.....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

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