Hello, how hard is it to do an oil change on a 2015 RT Limited 1330 ? I just bought the Spyder in the middle of July last summer from dealership. So now it is do. Dealership cost to much so I might tackle it myself.
Hello, how hard is it to do an oil change on a 2015 RT Limited 1330 ? I just bought the Spyder in the middle of July last summer from dealership. So now it is do. Dealership cost to much so I might tackle it myself.
It's not difficult at all. You will need a torque wrench that goes down to 18 ft-lb and a 36mm socket for the engine oil filter, a T-45 drive socket for the engine drain plug and a 6mm hex drive socket for the transmission clutch housing drain plug. You will need to get the bike off the ground (level) high enough to get at the plugs and slide a drain pan under there; 8-12" should do it.
Then, 5-1/2 quarts of the right oil and an O-ring and crush washer set, plus the oil filter. You can buy the oil, filter and washer kits from BajaRon and Lamonster with everything you need. Saves a LOT of money for labor at the dealer.
Hello, how hard is it to do an oil change on a 2015 RT Limited 1330 ? I just bought the Spyder in the middle of July last summer from dealership. So now it is do. Dealership cost to much so I might tackle it myself.
Go to Youtube and watch a Video. There are other videos as well. You can get oil at Wallyworld. t6 15w-40 and filter at ORielly's
EASY AS PIE.......
however, b4 u do the oil change, order yourself a set of GOLD PLUGS for the 1330.... like a lot of us, you may just strip-out the OEM plugs, and will have a difficult time with them....
give Tim a call at: 888-578-3851
and here's their website: https://goldplug.com
say HI to Tim for me.....
Dan P
SPYD3R
Easley, SC
EASY AS PIE.......
however, b4 u do the oil change, order yourself a set of GOLD PLUGS for the 1330.... like a lot of us, you may just strip-out the OEM plugs, and will have a difficult time with them....
give Tim a call at: 888-578-3851
and here's their website: https://goldplug.com
say HI to Tim for me.....
Dan P
SPYD3R
Easley, SC
Not necessary. Just use the right tools and you'll be fine.
It's not difficult at all. You will need a torque wrench that goes down to 18 ft-lb and a 36mm socket for the engine oil filter, a T-45 drive socket for the engine drain plug and a 6mm hex drive socket for the transmission clutch housing drain plug. You will need to get the bike off the ground (level) high enough to get at the plugs and slide a drain pan under there; 8-12" should do it.
Then, 5-1/2 quarts of the right oil and an O-ring and crush washer set, plus the oil filter. You can buy the oil, filter and washer kits from BajaRon and Lamonster with everything you need. Saves a LOT of money for labor at the dealer.
Thanks for the reply. I think that I am going to give it a try. I can get the oil change kit from the dealer. I am just not exactly sure what panels have to come off. I guess I will have to watch videos on it.
Thanks for the reply. I think that I am going to give it a try. I can get the oil change kit from the dealer. I am just not exactly sure what panels have to come off. I guess I will have to watch videos on it.
Watch the videos. Read the various threads on this forum. Get the right parts and tools. Then, just tackle it. You'll be surprised how simple it is really.
Oh, and give yourself enough time to do it. The first time is always the hardest and you don't need the time pressure of an impending trip making you feel rushed.
You will need to remove a couple of panels on the right side only. That's to access the oil filter. There's a heat shield has to be removed underneath the tupperware. Sounds worse than it is. First time is always a little nerve-wracking but once you get past the fear of completely destroying your bike, you'll be fine.
The most common and worst mistake you can make is when you are upside down don't confuse clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen. BEFORE you go down under check your ratchet to make doubly sure you're going to loosen the plug and not tighten it. If you don't use a ratchet then remember, lefty loosey righty tighty. One other important thing, one plug is torx and the other is hex. Don't screw that up. Good luck and as Pete said, the first time is the nervous time. From there on it's a cakewalk. OOP's, one other hint. Don't over tighten the filter cap. It tends to tighten itself over time and can be bitch to loosen if it's been over tightened.
I cringe when people use a torque wrench on drain plugs. A lot of reasons not to. The 2 most compelling are, 1- It's not necessary. 2- It often produces more problems than it solves for drain plugs (Stripped). Don't get me wrong, For lug nuts, head bolts and other high torque, high stress fittings I am a dedicated torque wrench user. I just don't feel the torque wrench is a universal solution.
The drain plugs come from the factory too tight. They don't need to be all that tight. How often to you hear of a drain plug falling out? (Extremely Rare) How often do you hear of one stripped? (Constantly) People feel that if tight enough is good, tighter is better (as they visualize their drain plugs falling out as they are running down the highway). It's just not reality. And can cause a lot of grief.
I use a Stubby ratchet (I like the articulating kind. But any 3/8" will do nicely) I grip near the head. This gives me a very good feel of what is happening. I just snug the drain plug. Works every time and is no big deal getting it off at the next service. The heat cycles your engine goes through to the next service will work to tighten the plug even more. The machining on these connections are very precise. They won't leak and there is virtually no pressure on that connection. You'll be fine and very happy the next time around. I'm still using the original drain plugs on my 2008 GS.
Next, recommended torque on these plugs is in Inch Pounds. And a low value at that. A torque wrench becomes more and more inaccurate as you move above or below 80% of it's rated range. Not to mention dropping, hard bumping, or storing the wrench at other than the prescribed setting can greatly reduce accuracy. How often do you accurately calibrate your torque wrench? Are you sure it is giving you an accurate reading? At higher values, this is not all the critical. But at values our drain plugs indicate, it is critical.
You have no feeling with a torque wrench. You can easily strip a fitting with no warning. Not so with a stubby ratchet gripped near the head.
I know that for many, a torque setting gives a warm, fuzzy feeling of confidence. But in my opinion, it is safer to trust the very sensitive nerves in your hand for lower torque values.
It's your ride. You should wrench it the way you think best. Just my 2 cents after hearing horror stories on a weekly basis.
2016 Toyota Sienna SE - hers 2002 BMW 325i - his 1994 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 Sportside Z71 - whoevers vehicle is in the shop 2009 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 Low (Vivid Black) - his 2018 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited - hers 2007 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL883 Low (Pearl White) - hers (SOLD 02/29/20) 2011 Tao Tao 50 - whoevers bike is in the shop 2007 Reinell 186 FNS - the dog's 1995 Fleetwood Flair 27R - EVERYBODY'S !
C'mon people, the resurgence of all these oil change & drain plug threads is simply because Jane has (in every thread) kindly given us a heads up that apparently Gold Plugs has folded!! See post #11, quoted below....
Originally Posted by Jane1330
Apparently Gold Plug has folded, the phone is disconnected and e-mails etc... go unanswered. Placed an order and funds were paid...crickets
So there is no further need to rehash the already finalised discussion in any of these threads - not unless you've got something new &/or helpful to add that hasn't already been covered, anyway!!
And No, there is no need to report these posts, it's not spam - well, not yet anyway!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-21-2022 at 08:45 PM.
How hard is it to do an oil change?
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Originally Posted by Rookiespyder
