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BajaRon Sway Bar Helm Joint Links
Anyone have issues with their BajaRon Sway Bar Helm Joint Links?
I just took my 2016 Spyder RT Special Series in for state inspection and the 9300 mile service (only had a little over 7000 miles but the warranty is up in May so thought I would get it checked out thoroughly). I had a clicking noise develop towards the end of last season if you rocked the bike side to side and I thought it was a front shock going bad. Since I have a couple months of warranty left I wanted to get that checked out.
The dealer just called me and told me the noise was coming from the BajaRon Helm Joint Links. He said they put the stock ones back on and it solved the problem. Other than that everything was installed properly so no issues with how I installed it.
I put the BajaRon sway bar on at the start of last season and probably put 3000 miles on it. I really like it and it was towards the end of the season before the clicking noise developed.
The dealer kept the Links so I am going to see what they look like and what might have failed to cause the licking noise. I will probably contact BajaRon to see what he says.
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Active Member
Could be several things causing this, Definitely contact him, he will fix you up. Remember the stock links are plastic, Ron's are defo stronger.
Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
BRP heated grips, DIY brake light strip and turn signal strips, Chrome/LED brake light tag frame, SpyderPops bumpskid, Baja Ron swaybar and billet links, Lamonster Third Peg, BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest, SpyderPops Missing Belt Guard, ShowChrome oversize brake pedal, TricLED foglights.
Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
...Get them back!
(The stock ones won't last...)
A big +1!!! I'll bet there's nothing wrong with Ron's links.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
The clunking is a lose bolt holding the links on. Of course when they put stock ones on it fixed it because they tightened the bolt!
Had this very same thing happen to me and I just tightened all the bolts.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Active Member
What torque are you using? Just by feel or is there a spec we should be following?
Originally Posted by finless
The clunking is a lose bolt holding the links on. Of course when they put stock ones on it fixed it because they tightened the bolt!
Had this very same thing happen to me and I just tightened all the bolts.
Bob
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by dickgi
What torque are you using? Just by feel or is there a spec we should be following?
There is a torque spec... I would have to look it up in the Service Manual. But when I installed the links I guessed it as it's tight to get in there with a torque wrench. Clearly I went too light the first time since one got ever so slightly loose to cause the clunk..
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I'll bet that they had just loosened-up at their mounting point on the A-Arms, and your dealer just stole them from you...
Get them back!
(The stock ones won't last...)
They didn't steal them from me. They gave them back to me and they actually put on the stock ones at no charge. They had just sold a new Spyder and were putting a BajaRon Sway Bar and Link set on it so they gave me the links they took off the new Spyder RT they sold. Based on all that I think the dealer was pretty straight up with me. They even tried to get BRP to replace the links under warranty even thought they weren't stock... but BRP obvisouly denied the dealers request so they worked around it anyway for me.
I need to take a closer look at them but one of them did not seem to be moving as smoothly as the other ones when I was rotating them at the shop.
Last edited by Judge64; 03-08-2018 at 02:45 PM.
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Very Active Member
Here you go....
torque spec it 18lbf.ft or 25 N.m and if I remember there was something about installing the bolt in the correct direction.
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Judge,
Your initial post lead me to believe that you didn't get them back; I'm glad that you did!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Judge64
I need to take a closer look at them but one of them did not seem to be moving as smoothly as the other ones when I was rotating them at the shop.
Yep, I had exactly the same problem, Judge.......clicking while rocking side to side. Unlike Finless, mine was not fixed by tightening. I contacted Ron, who said he does sometimes get bad ones, and he sent me a replacement out to Aus. I ran the original BRP in one side and Ron’s in the other with no issues for a few months.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
I check the links regularly and tighten.
2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid
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SpyderLovers Ambassador
Loose Bolts and Nuts
I have Not Read anything about using 'Thread-Loc'. This could be a better FIX for bolts and nuts coming loose.
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
Ryde with a Friend and be Safe
My Spyder ..... 'Little Blue-Boy'
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Little Blue
I have Not Read anything about using 'Thread-Loc'. This could be a better FIX for bolts and nuts coming loose.
If any of that thread lock gets into the heim it will cause problems. Better to do a periodic check and retighten.
Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
BRP heated grips, DIY brake light strip and turn signal strips, Chrome/LED brake light tag frame, SpyderPops bumpskid, Baja Ron swaybar and billet links, Lamonster Third Peg, BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest, SpyderPops Missing Belt Guard, ShowChrome oversize brake pedal, TricLED foglights.
Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.
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Active Member
I get a little bit of clicking out of ours as well but a little shot of lithium grease and it quiets them down quite a bit. They are a steel ball and steel socket so there's some slight movement that can cause a click, so lube is a good idea.
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Very Active Member
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 03-09-2018 at 03:59 PM.
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