Brake problem — scratching my head

[MisterP]

Took my ‘14 RTL to a dealer for its annual and a brake problem that started recently. I noticed that the Spyder was pulling to the left during hard braking (which happens frequently here in FL this time of year). After waiting for four hours I was told that the left front brake was inoperative even though the brake system developed 200 psi. They gave me a bill with the statement in print “bike unsafe to ride”. They wanted me to leave it there to “bleed the brakes then perform further diagnostics “. They noted there were no fault codes in the system. I rode it home, having no other way to get there. I plan to go to another dealer further away for their assessment.

If the left brake caliper is inoperative, wouldn’t the bike pull to the right due to the action of the right front brake? The inspection didn’t note any excessive wear on any brake pads. I’m trying to sort out possible issues before I go to the next dealer. For several reasons I’m not able to do service on the bike myself so those comments aren’t necessary, thanks.

Any thoughts?

[JayBros]

Smells to me like you need to find a new dealer.

[lewisalice]

Later for that dealer.

[BajaRon]

Took my ‘14 RTL to a dealer for its annual and a brake problem that started recently. I noticed that the Spyder was pulling to the left during hard braking (which happens frequently here in FL this time of year). After waiting for four hours I was told that the left front brake was inoperative even though the brake system developed 200 psi. They gave me a bill with the statement in print “bike unsafe to ride”. They wanted me to leave it there to “bleed the brakes then perform further diagnostics “. They noted there were no fault codes in the system. I rode it home, having no other way to get there. I plan to go to another dealer further away for their assessment.

If the left brake caliper is inoperative, wouldn’t the bike pull to the right due to the action of the right front brake? The inspection didn’t note any excessive wear on any brake pads. I’m trying to sort out possible issues before I go to the next dealer. For several reasons I’m not able to do service on the bike myself so those comments aren’t necessary, thanks.

Any thoughts?

They need to define the term 'Inoperative'. Because by the common definition, you are correct. The Spyder should pull to the side where operative braking is being applied.

It's good that they confirmed that the system is generating 200 PSI. I don't know what the spec. is. But you would think that this pressure meets spec. Otherwise, they would have mentioned it as being a possible contributor to the problem. Though low brake pressure from the master cylinder isn't going to create a pulling issue. Instead it will create equally weak braking to all wheels. The real question is. What were the pressures at the calipers? Obviously, unequal pressure at the calipers would indicate an issue that would give you the pulling you are experiencing. And narrow down the components which needed to be checked to find the source of the problem.

It could very well be a VSS issue. Could be a collapsed or blocked brake line. Or a stuck caliper puck.

It appears to me that their 'Diagnosis' created more questions than it answered. A 2nd opinion is a very good idea. Let us know what you find out.

[Roadster Renovations]

Jack each wheel up one at a time and check for binding. If the caliper is not releasing properly, it will drag that side. Also, have someone apply the brake gently while you try to spin the wheel. Should not a difference.
That is not the newfangled way of BUDS, but it is old school where we didn't have fancy 'puters to tell us this or that.

btw: Don't need to have the byke running for this test. The static system will give you an idea of what is happening.

[Easy Rider]

That would make perfect sense.....IF it was the right front brake that was "inoperative".

Might be an "innocent" mistake when writing up the description.

Their suggested next move sounds right to me.
And the warning about not riding it like that too.

[Bob Denman]

Doc H. is right: put the bike in the air, and give the front wheels the "spin test".

And I also suspect that the dealership is trying to pull a fast one!

[Doc - Riverside]

The dealer techs need training on the brake system. 200 psi is an alarm bell if in fact they read the pressure via BUDS.

The stated pressure of 200 psi is way to low and should be giving you a low pressure error code. When using BUDS Computer to check brake system pressure the minimum pressure reading should be 508 psi. There are two micro-switches associated with the brake pedal. The first one to activate is for the brake light and the second on activates when the brake pedal goes down to far (soft pedal). You should be able to hear the micro-switch click when activated. One click is good two clicks is bad and you should change out the brake fluid. The brake system problems I have seen involving a soft pedal have been corrected by changing the brake fluid and verifying that the system pressure is at or above 508 psi. I do have the BUDS computer.

[pegasus1300]

Took my ‘14 RTL to a dealer for its annual and a brake problem that started recently. I noticed that the Spyder was pulling to the left during hard braking (which happens frequently here in FL this time of year). After waiting for four hours I was told that the left front brake was inoperative even though the brake system developed 200 psi. They gave me a bill with the statement in print “bike unsafe to ride”. They wanted me to leave it there to “bleed the brakes then perform further diagnostics “. They noted there were no fault codes in the system. I rode it home, having no other way to get there. I plan to go to another dealer further away for their assessment.

If the left brake caliper is inoperative, wouldn’t the bike pull to the right due to the action of the right front brake? The inspection didn’t note any excessive wear on any brake pads. I’m trying to sort out possible issues before I go to the next dealer. For several reasons I’m not able to do service on the bike myself so those comments aren’t necessary, thanks.

Any thoughts?

Do you have a friend who would help you do the manual test that Doc Riverside suggested before you head off to another dealer? How about access to a trailer for towing