All New Brake Pads ‘16 F3L

[papanorm]

Just thought I would share my experience; got a full set of brake pads from BajaRon, thank you Ron. I watched some videos, looked at my shop manual, got all of the tools needed and went to work. Raised the Spyder, pulled the front wheels and changed the front pads which was pretty straight forward. Word of caution, don’t lose your spring clips. Buttoned fronts back up and went to the rears. Working area on an F3L rear caliper is very tight and used a long 5/8” socket without removing the muffler to remove inner caliper bolt. I was able to remove the caliper and replace the pads without too much difficulty. Make sure the pads seat properly, don’t ask me how i know. Watch out for the little spring clip again. Buttoned them back up and tightened all to torque specs. My test drive was to bed the brakes in running up to 60 then to 20mph and repeated 5 more times. Very pleased with the result as the new EBC brakes stopped the Spyder much better than the originals.
P.S. Prior to starting i did suck most of the brake fluid out of the reservoir so as not to cause it to overflow when pushing the pistons back.

[Flier Tuck]

Just done the same job on my bike using EBC Double-H pads, though not run it yet due to the weather. Where did you get the info on bedding the pads in, there was nothing like that on the packaging I had.

[papanorm]

I believe it was on Ron’s instruction sheet for EBC pads as well as on the packaging materials. The idea is to heat the pads up when you bring the Spyder down from 60mph to 20 but not stopping because you don’t wants the pads to cool off.

[Chupaca]

This will give some confidence to others venturing into a brake pad change. sounds like you had little problems and good advise on what to watch for...

[papanorm]

That’s exactly why i posted and to offer information if needed.

[Grandpot]

Did the new pads come with clips or did you have to use the old clips?

[papanorm]

No clips with the new pads. Had to use the old ones.