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Thread: Rear shock info

  1. #26
    Very Active Member spacetiger's Avatar
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    The 2 spring setup works fine. I think BRP changed springs because they found they could get a single spring (but made to be a 2 rate spring) cheaper than staying with 2 springs and the spacer.

    I think you will find changing out the shorter (weaker) spring easier than replacing the 2 spring + spacer set up with a single rate spring. If someone would send me the shock, I could disassemble the shock and test the springs to confirm spring rates. That info could help you pick the right rate spring to replace either the short or both springs. Of course, you'd have to pay shipping both ends. My labor and use of test equipment is free.

    I know I have read a lots of comments about springs losing their capacity over time, but I have not seen this short of a spring actually breaking. The spring material is good for all OEM manufactures (Chinese bikes aside) so I would be very surprised to see a spring loose a substantial amount of its spring rate. A few % might be lost over 100,000's spring cycles. So, unless you have more than 100K mikes on your spyder, I doubt your oem springs have lost too much of their capacity.

    Another reason to consider only changing the shorter spring, the ID of the OEM spring ends are likely to be 2.25" and just short of 2.25; aftermarket springs are a uniform 2.25". I found I had to sand off some of the powder coating on the aftermarket spring to get the 2.25" ID spring to fit inside the top end fitting. The other end should fit nicely on the spacer. If you go with one single rate spring, the ends are not 2.25". When I went with a single spring, I used a 8" coil over sleeve that made setting the preload a breeze.

    Jerrycoil over sleeve.jpg4. eibach spring installed.jpg
    13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case

    16 Vespa Primavera 150: Stock
    16 Piaggio BV350: Suspension, braking mods in work
    14 HD XL1200T: F/R suspension and brake mods; Corbin saddle and bags
    09 Aprilia SC250: F/R suspension and minor brake mods
    97 Honda PC800: F/R wheels, F/R suspension, and F/R brake Mods; Corbin saddle
    90 CB-1: In work, long term project
    89 Honda NT650: F/R suspension; Corbin saddle

  2. #27
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spacetiger View Post
    The 2 spring setup works fine. I think BRP changed springs because they found they could get a single spring (but made to be a 2 rate spring) cheaper than staying with 2 springs and the spacer.

    I think you will find changing out the shorter (weaker) spring easier than replacing the 2 spring + spacer set up with a single rate spring. If someone would send me the shock, I could disassemble the shock and test the springs to confirm spring rates. That info could help you pick the right rate spring to replace either the short or both springs. Of course, you'd have to pay shipping both ends. My labor and use of test equipment is free.

    I know I have read a lots of comments about springs losing their capacity over time, but I have not seen this short of a spring actually breaking. The spring material is good for all OEM manufactures (Chinese bikes aside) so I would be very surprised to see a spring loose a substantial amount of its spring rate. A few % might be lost over 100,000's spring cycles. So, unless you have more than 100K mikes on your spyder, I doubt your oem springs have lost too much of their capacity.

    Another reason to consider only changing the shorter spring, the ID of the OEM spring ends are likely to be 2.25" and just short of 2.25; aftermarket springs are a uniform 2.25". I found I had to sand off some of the powder coating on the aftermarket spring to get the 2.25" ID spring to fit inside the top end fitting. The other end should fit nicely on the spacer. If you go with one single rate spring, the ends are not 2.25". When I went with a single spring, I used a 8" coil over sleeve that made setting the preload a breeze.

    Jerrycoil over sleeve.jpg4. eibach spring installed.jpg
    So what you are saying that they used 2 different rating springs on the shock. The taller spring would be rated more than the shorter one. Mine has the adjuster on the shock so a coil over sleeve wouldn't be needed. Would rather just go with one spring vs the 2 spring set up. I also think that Can Am used too weak of a spring out of the gate.
    David

  3. #28
    Very Active Member spacetiger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warlock View Post
    So what you are saying that they used 2 different rating springs on the shock. The taller spring would be rated more than the shorter one. Mine has the adjuster on the shock so a coil over sleeve wouldn't be needed. Would rather just go with one spring vs the 2 spring set up. I also think that Can Am used too weak of a spring out of the gate.
    David
    Taller is the more stout spring

    Shorter is the solo rate spring

    Understand the desire to go with 1 spring, I did also. Your challenge will be to find a spring length to fit in the space you have. The OEM shock uses an odd length, the aftermarket spring makers make springs in specific lengths, 4,5,6,7,8,9,10 etc. Finding a single spring with a length that will fit with an acceptable preload is tough. I got around it bu using a coilover sleeve. I think your best chance to get a spring that will fit and meet your solo need would be to retain the 2 spring set up.

    You are spot on, the spring rates are not strong enough - this is true for all Spyder offerings. That is why there are sooo many "solutions" out there.

    Jerry
    13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case

    16 Vespa Primavera 150: Stock
    16 Piaggio BV350: Suspension, braking mods in work
    14 HD XL1200T: F/R suspension and brake mods; Corbin saddle and bags
    09 Aprilia SC250: F/R suspension and minor brake mods
    97 Honda PC800: F/R wheels, F/R suspension, and F/R brake Mods; Corbin saddle
    90 CB-1: In work, long term project
    89 Honda NT650: F/R suspension; Corbin saddle

  4. #29
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spacetiger View Post
    Taller is the more stout spring

    Shorter is the solo rate spring

    Understand the desire to go with 1 spring, I did also. Your challenge will be to find a spring length to fit in the space you have. The OEM shock uses an odd length, the aftermarket spring makers make springs in specific lengths, 4,5,6,7,8,9,10 etc. Finding a single spring with a length that will fit with an acceptable preload is tough. I got around it bu using a coilover sleeve. I think your best chance to get a spring that will fit and meet your solo need would be to retain the 2 spring set up.

    You are spot on, the spring rates are not strong enough - this is true for all Spyder offerings. That is why there are sooo many "solutions" out there.

    Jerry
    I'm enjoying all this info from you. Might end up changing the small spring and maybe a new shock. Was looking into the tech section of repair manual. They show the measurement of the short and long spring. Shows short one as 3.94 free length and long as 4.882.
    David
    Last edited by Warlock; 02-07-2018 at 11:28 PM.

  5. #30
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spacetiger View Post
    Taller is the more stout spring

    Shorter is the solo rate spring

    Understand the desire to go with 1 spring, I did also. Your challenge will be to find a spring length to fit in the space you have. The OEM shock uses an odd length, the aftermarket spring makers make springs in specific lengths, 4,5,6,7,8,9,10 etc. Finding a single spring with a length that will fit with an acceptable preload is tough. I got around it bu using a coilover sleeve. I think your best chance to get a spring that will fit and meet your solo need would be to retain the 2 spring set up.

    You are spot on, the spring rates are not strong enough - this is true for all Spyder offerings. That is why there are sooo many "solutions" out there.

    Jerry
    Sent you a PM

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