Rear shock info

[Warlock]

I know it's been discussed, but anyway what is a good replacement for a 08 GS Spyder. Cannot ride 2 up without bottoming out. Any suggestions appreciated. Don't ride all the time 2 up but ever now and then.
thanks, Davi

[spacetiger]

How much did you want to spend (max)?
What do you weigh?
What does you passenger weigh?
How would you characterize your riding preference?

[Warlock]

How much did you want to spend (max)?
What do you weigh?
What does you passenger weigh?
How would you characterize your riding preference?

Both together around 420. I ride pretty aggressive. She would only be on back during fun runs and maybe a trip or so. Other than that I ride the curves pretty good. I could probably count on 1 hand how many times a year.
David

[SpyderAnn01]

Your least expensive option may be to get an OEM shock from a newer year RS. On the 10RT it was a noticeable improvement switching to a rear shock from a 2011 or 12 RT. I’m thinking the same may be true for the 08 GS.

Can anyone confirm if the rear shocks from 09-12 were improved from the 08?

[spacetiger]

Both together around 420. I ride pretty aggressive. She would only be on back during fun runs and maybe a trip or so. Other than that I ride the curves pretty good. I could probably count on 1 hand how many times a year.
David

David,
You did not indicate what you weigh.

Your best least expense route will be to replace the spring with straight rate spring strong enough to handle 2 up duties but not too harsh for solo riding. This would assume the damping is still sufficient in the oem shock. How many miles are on the bike?

If the damping is shot, you have 2 options, get another shock (still would have to change the spring) or get a new aftermarket shock.

A spring will cost you less than $100. The cheapest aftermarket shock will probably run you at least $600.

Jerry

[Warlock]

Your least expensive option may be to get an OEM shock from a newer year RS. On the 10RT it was a noticeable improvement switching to a rear shock from a 2011 or 12 RT. I’m thinking the same may be true for the 08 GS.

Can anyone confirm if the rear shocks from 09-12 were improved from the 08?

Might have to take a look at my wife's shock. I know here swing arm is different than mine, but don't know about shock length.
David

[spacetiger]

A pic of the shock (hopefully it comes through).

gs rear shock.jpg

There are 2 springs. The short one is the lower rate spring, the longer spring is the more stout spring. You could replace both springs and the spacer in between or you can replace the shorter spring. I don't know the length of the shorter spring, but an Eibach spring should do. I would guess a 0400.225.0800 might be a good guess.

The 0400 = 4" length, 225 = ID of the spring, and 0800 = 800 lbs/in spring rate. You would need to measure the length of the short spring. That length is the installed length (it has spring installation preload on it, so the measurement you would take is not the free length). If you measure the length to be around 3.25 or 3.75", then the 4" spring would be okay.

Measure the ID of the spring. They come in standard ID sizes; I believe it is 2.25" but could be as small as 2". I don't think it is 2.5".

For the 2012 RT I had, I changed to 900 lb/in spring, I think 800 may be okay - but you need to post your weight so I can check to verify 800 is okay. You might need more capacity.

Here is a link to a potential 0400.225.0800 spring ($70 + shipping): http://www.jegs.com/i/Eibach/369/040...RoCbIgQAvD_BwE

If this is not the spring you need, google the size you may need, example: Eibach 0400.225.0900. There are lots of places that sell their springs.


Jerry

[Warlock]

A pic of the shock (hopefully it comes through).

gs rear shock.jpg

There are 2 springs. The short one is the lower rate spring, the longer spring is the more stout spring. You could replace both springs and the spacer in between or you can replace the shorter spring. I don't know the length of the shorter spring, but an Eibach spring should do. I would guess a 0400.225.0800 might be a good guess.

The 0400 = 4" length, 225 = ID of the spring, and 0800 = 800 lbs/in spring rate. You would need to measure the length of the short spring. That length is the installed length (it has spring installation preload on it, so the measurement you would take is not the free length). If you measure the length to be around 3.25 or 3.75", then the 4" spring would be okay.

Measure the ID of the spring. They come in standard ID sizes; I believe it is 2.25" but could be as small as 2". I don't think it is 2.5".

For the 2012 RT I had, I changed to 900 lb/in spring, I think 800 may be okay - but you need to post your weight so I can check to verify 800 is okay. You might need more capacity.

Here is a link to a potential 0400.225.0800 spring ($70 + shipping): http://www.jegs.com/i/Eibach/369/040...RoCbIgQAvD_BwE

If this is not the spring you need, google the size you may need, example: Eibach 0400.225.0900. There are lots of places that sell their springs.


Jerry

We have a combined weight of around 420 lbs. Some of the spyders has single springs and some just one. Will have to see what mine has. Thanks for the info

David

[spacetiger]

We have a combined weight of around 420 lbs. Some of the spyders has single springs and some just one. Will have to see what mine has.

David

David - what do you weigh? That determines the rate of the shorter spring.

BTW, the pic I posted is of a 2008 GS model, so I'm guessing yours is the same.

[Warlock]

David - what do you weigh? That determines the rate of the shorter spring.

BTW, the pic I posted is of a 2008 GS model, so I'm guessing yours is the same.

I weight around 210.
David

[oldgoat]

Your least expensive option may be to get an OEM shock from a newer year RS. On the 10RT it was a noticeable improvement switching to a rear shock from a 2011 or 12 RT. I’m thinking the same may be true for the 08 GS.

Can anyone confirm if the rear shocks from 09-12 were improved from the 08?

FYI:-They changed the length of the rear shock after the '08 GS model.

I got this from Elka: The rear Elka 1+R you purchased used is about 1.5" too long ( 14"). This longer one is for the 2010 -2012 RS. Even some 2009 models have the longer shock. The correct length for a 2008 GS rear shock is 12.205" between centres of the mounting holes.

They rebuilt my "too long" rear shock to 2008 GS specs for me for $400CAD ($2.50US)

[Warlock]

FYI:-They changed the length of the rear shock after the '08 GS model.

I got this from Elka: The rear Elka 1+R you purchased used is about 1.5" too long ( 14"). This longer one is for the 2010 -2012 RS. Even some 2009 models have the longer shock. The correct length for a 2008 GS rear shock is 12.205" between centres of the mounting holes.

They rebuilt my "too long" rear shock to 2008 GS specs for me for $400CAD ($2.50US)

So what your saying is the longer shock will not work at all on the 08 model.
David

[oldgoat]

So what your saying is the longer shock will not work at all on the 08 model.
David

No it won't.
It raises the rear upper frame by the extra length. The Spyder does not look "right" then & it considerably loosens the drive belt. I don't even know if there is enough belt adjustment available to tension it correctly.

I am VERY happy with my rebuilt (to the correct '08 specs) rear Elka 1+R It was an expensive mistake buying the '12RS one used then finding I had to have if modified/rebuilt, but the comfort is worth it. It was built/setup to my weight, riding style etc & is fully adjustable should I ever have a passenger.

[Warlock]

No it won't.
It raises the rear upper frame by the extra length. The Spyder does not look "right" then & it considerably loosens the drive belt. I don't even know if there is enough belt adjustment available to tension it correctly.

I am VERY happy with my rebuilt (to the correct '08 specs) rear Elka 1+R It was an expensive mistake buying the '12RS one used then finding I had to have if modified/rebuilt, but the comfort is worth it. It was built/setup to my weight, riding style etc & is fully adjustable should I ever have a passenger.

I know they changed the swing arm in the late 10 models and went to a different shock. It has a single spring. What I don't understand is the 13 models shows a single spring but list as a different p/n. I know some of the dual springs are used all the way up to 2012 models. Not all of them. But noticed the ones that carry the dual springs are all the same p/n.
Davud

[Chupaca]

the early GS had two springs and then later they changed to a single spring.(2012) They have a 5 point adjuster on them. I see that the last models made have a single spring but are no longer adjustable. (2016) not sure when they went to the non -adjustable but get one with adjustments my 12 has been great for the last 40,000 miles and I ryde like you do....little less in the combined weight....

[Warlock]

the early GS had two springs and then later they changed to a single spring.(2012) They have a 5 point adjuster on them. I see that the last models made have a single spring but are no longer adjustable. (2016) not sure when they went to the non -adjustable but get one with adjustments my 12 has been great for the last 40,000 miles and I ryde like you do....little less in the combined weight....

I was noticing the single springs ones up to and including the 12 models was adjustable. On the 13 models no longer adjustable.
David

[spacetiger]

I weight around 210.
David

David,

You are about 15 lbs heavier than me, so I would look for a 900 lb/in spring. So something from Eibach 0400.225.0900. But you need to measure the length of the shorter spring in there now to know what length to order.

Do you have the means to compress the springs so they can be removed from the shock? 3 stout endless ratchet straps (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cargo-Bo...3500/202224194) are sufficient to compress the 2 springs enough to take the preload force on the top retaning ring; after that is refomoved from the shock, the springs slide out. At that point, you can hand manipulate the shock to feel if the damping still functions. That said, your arms are not calibrated, so you will not know how much capacity you will have, but if you have little resistance, than the shock is probably shot. If you see any sign of fluid leaking, you will have to replace the shock. A replacement (https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...uspension-rear), part #15 may still be available for $99.99 if you want to stay oem with better spring for solo riding.

So, the cheapest path looks like $70 (spring) or $170 for spring and new shock.

Jerry

[Warlock]

David,

You are about 15 lbs heavier than me, so I would look for a 900 lb/in spring. So something from Eibach 0400.225.0900. But you need to measure the length of the shorter spring in there now to know what length to order.

Do you have the means to compress the springs so they can be removed from the shock? 3 stout endless ratchet straps (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cargo-Bo...3500/202224194) are sufficient to compress the 2 springs enough to take the preload force on the top retaning ring; after that is refomoved from the shock, the springs slide out. At that point, you can hand manipulate the shock to feel if the damping still functions. That said, your arms are not calibrated, so you will not know how much capacity you will have, but if you have little resistance, than the shock is probably shot. If you see any sign of fluid leaking, you will have to replace the shock. A replacement (https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...uspension-rear), part #15 may still be available for $99.99 if you want to stay oem with better spring for solo riding.

So, the cheapest path looks like $70 (spring) or $170 for spring and new shock.

Jerry

Have either thought about the ratchets or either build a spring compressor. Going to do some measuring and will try and replace both springs if I can get them. Will probably be a while before I try this. Might order a new shock and new springs. Got time to think about it and come up with a plan. Can't see $600 for the cheapest aftermarket one. I am (was) a chief mechanic on a drill ship so I like to do stuff like this. Retired so will up date if and when I decide to go this route. Again thanks for all the info.
David

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Have either thought about the ratchets or either build a spring compressor. Going to do some measuring and will try and replace both springs if I can get them. Will probably be a while before I try this. Might order a new shock and new springs. Got time to think about it and come up with a plan. Can't see $600 for the cheapest aftermarket one. I am (was) a chief mechanic on a drill ship so I like to do stuff like this. Retired so will up date if and when I decide to go this route. Again thanks for all the info.
David

I've worked on the poor OEM suspension system .... but my solutions only involve the front set-up ( shock angle change ) .... doing something like that is not viable for the rear ..... However I got some very good input from a Mtc Shock expert ( He worked with Ohlins ) .... By compressing the springs, you are losing how much they are able to compress because the device takes up space .... If carried it to the extreme you will end up with a Harley Hard Tail - ie. no spring to compress.... The compression device will make the ride harsher .... For what you want, I would look at a better SINGLE Spring. The DOUBLE spring ( with the donut separator ) set-up takes up the space between the coils....... I believe BRP moved away from their own Pre-load device ( which was on earlier Spyders ) because when people used them , they discovered the ride did get stiffer, but the ride also became Harsher ..... There are usually trade-offs ....... I did what BRP did in 2013 , they changed the Angle of the front shock/spring, which kept the nice ride feel but FIRMED it up for the twistie's ..... I just increased the change. I was willing to do a bit of trimming on the plastic to accommodate the angle change ....BRP wasn't willing to do that because it would require them to change the molds for the two plastic parts ..... It was about the money for them ..... Mike

[Warlock]

I've worked on the poor OEM suspension system .... but my solutions only involve the front set-up ( shock angle change ) .... doing something like that is not viable for the rear ..... However I got some very good input from a Mtc Shock expert ( He worked with Ohlins ) .... By compressing the springs, you are losing how much they are able to compress because the device takes up space .... If carried it to the extreme you will end up with a Harley Hard Tail - ie. no spring to compress.... The compression device will make the ride harsher .... For what you want, I would look at a better SINGLE Spring. The DOUBLE spring ( with the donut separator ) set-up takes up the space between the coils....... I believe BRP moved away from their own Pre-load device ( which was on earlier Spyders ) because when people used them , they discovered the ride did get stiffer, but the ride also became Harsher ..... There are usually trade-offs ....... I did what BRP did in 2013 , they changed the Angle of the front shock/spring, which kept the nice ride feel but FIRMED it up for the twistie's ..... I just increased the change. I was willing to do a bit of trimming on the plastic to accommodate the angle change ....BRP wasn't willing to do that because it would require them to change the molds for the two plastic parts ..... It was about the money for them ..... Mike

The brackets up front made all the difference in the world. Now to find a solution for the rear shock. Your brackets fixed the front.
David

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The brackets up front made all the difference in the world. Now to find a solution for the rear shock. Your brackets fixed the front.
David

I'm glad they are working for you ...... I was confident they would .... How about when you are riding double ????? .... and my comments ,along with Space Tiger should get the rear like you need ..... Mike

[JerryB]

Hi David,

Re: Now to find a solution for the rear shock.

Last year I was noticing that my rear shock was occasionally bottoming out as I would hit a pot-hole, etc. I only ride 1-up & am about 220 lbs.

I just bought a new rear shock, Part #70600411, from the ProCaliber website; about $75. And they are just across the river from me, so no shipping.

I simply did not think the much higher prices for the after-market shocks is worth it.

The shock I got is about 9 3/4" from one end to the other when compressed.

shock.jpg

Unless I find someother parts in bad shape, broken, etc, I will just replace the shock itself. There is a local business in this area that does only motorcycle suspensions. While he has never taken on a Spyder shock, he does think that he can get it apart & reassembled as necessary.

I am of the opinion that a shock, with a load on it, will compress to its shortest length. It will take time but it will happen.

So, if a shock has a load ( weight ) on it ( the weight of the Spyder at the rear ), it will compress all the way. What stops this from happening is the spring. The spring provides the resistance to prevent the shock from compressing completely.

Anyone else have a thought on this?

Jerry Baumchen

[Warlock]

Hi David,

Re: Now to find a solution for the rear shock.

Last year I was noticing that my rear shock was occasionally bottoming out as I would hit a pot-hole, etc. I only ride 1-up & am about 220 lbs.

I just bought a new rear shock, Part #70600411, from the ProCaliber website; about $75. And they are just across the river from me, so no shipping.

I simply did not think the much higher prices for the after-market shocks is worth it.

The shock I got is about 9 3/4" from one end to the other when compressed.

shock.jpg

Unless I find someother parts in bad shape, broken, etc, I will just replace the shock itself. There is a local business in this area that does only motorcycle suspensions. While he has never taken on a Spyder shock, he does think that he can get it apart & reassembled as necessary.

I am of the opinion that a shock, with a load on it, will compress to its shortest length. It will take time but it will happen.

So, if a shock has a load ( weight ) on it ( the weight of the Spyder at the rear ), it will compress all the way. What stops this from happening is the spring. The spring provides the resistance to prevent the shock from compressing completely.

Anyone else have a thought on this?

Jerry Baumchen

I believe once the springs start losing the strength it puts more stress on the shock which causes it to evidently fail. I can push mine down pretty easy while standing beside it. No evidence if any leaks. Thinking about getting a new shock like you bought and maybe adding new 900 lbs spring if I can find one to work.
David

[JerryB]

Hi David,

Re: I believe once the springs start losing the strength it puts more stress on the shock which causes it to evidently fail.

Yup.

Re: adding new 900 lbs spring if I can find one to work.

And I would be up for one of those; let us/me know if/when you find one.

Jerry Baumchen

[Warlock]

Hi David,

Re: I believe once the springs start losing the strength it puts more stress on the shock which causes it to evidently fail.

Yup.

Re: adding new 900 lbs spring if I can find one to work.

And I would be up for one of those; let us/me know if/when you find one.

Jerry Baumchen

Will share all the info here if it works out to the good. Will be a few months before I try this. Might even buy a used one to experiment on.