Which is the best Belt Tensioner for an F3 LTD?

[Roadster Renovations]

I would also be worried about the BRP one. I have seen threads on here of failures and it aint pretty. Doc said in the video I posted that they work fine for at least a couple of years.

To clarify: When I said a year or two that ended up being very optimistic. It will depend on how many miles you ryde a year. What kind of ryding and at what speed. We are finding that interstate speeds are causing them to heat up and fail. It is a hit an miss thing. Some last longer and some shorter. We have removed them at events that had less than 400 miles that were failing. Best thing to do is carry something to tie the arm up out of the way if the roller fails. You also should periodically check the play in the roller. We caught one in Maggie Valley that had 4,000 miles on it and was getting ready to fail it had so much play. At the same event we had a ryder that had noticed the BRP unit was not working as well. When we pulled the panels the roller was completely gone and what was left on the arm had cut two deep grooves in the smooth part of the belt. Since the dealer had installed it when we contacted them they ask me to remove it so he could ryde it home to the dealer, where they warranted the belt.
The bottom line on whether they will replace the belt they will only do that if their idler has been installed by them.

roller.jpg belt.jpganother.jpg

Here are a couple of videos from Maggie Valley last year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb1gJOhlR2Y


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXb7-bWdSe8

[SpyderNeil]

I put the the brp damper pulley which goes on the top , all vibration gone. Now saying that I am keeping a very close eye on pulley and bearing. I only have about 4000 Km on it so we will see.

crossbow

I have 23000 Km, all highway, on mine. I keep a close eye on it, which is Very easy, and it's like new.

Neil

[Sarge707]

Is this a Paid advertisement?

[AY4B]

Is this a Paid advertisement?

If it is I am way under paid, seeing that I bought a product with zero discount without even knowing if it is going to work.

[AY4B]

I think It is supposed to get here by tomorrow and if I get it installed by my ryde on Saturday, I can give a full review.

[jroberts650]

To clarify: When I said a year or two that ended up being very optimistic. It will depend on how many miles you ryde a year. What kind of ryding and at what speed. We are finding that interstate speeds are causing them to heat up and fail. It is a hit an miss thing. Some last longer and some shorter. We have removed them at events that had less than 400 miles that were failing. Best thing to do is carry something to tie the arm up out of the way if the roller fails. You also should periodically check the play in the roller. We caught one in Maggie Valley that had 4,000 miles on it and was getting ready to fail it had so much play. At the same event we had a ryder that had noticed the BRP unit was not working as well. When we pulled the panels the roller was completely gone and what was left on the arm had cut two deep grooves in the smooth part of the belt. Since the dealer had installed it when we contacted them they ask me to remove it so he could ryde it home to the dealer, where they warranted the belt.
The bottom line on whether they will replace the belt they will only do that if their idler has been installed by them.

roller.jpg belt.jpganother.jpg

Here are a couple of videos from Maggie Valley last year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb1gJOhlR2Y


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXb7-bWdSe8

I feel like the bracket that the RT owners install with the BRP idler is causing some of these premature failures. The farther out the idler is placed, the more tension and load is placed on the roller itself. Not to mention the added movement of the arm at the pivot point. I personally have the BRP idler without the bracket kit and it works fine. And it will not contact the tank even with the bottom bolt out of the rear shock. So not too sure why the bracket was recommended anyway, maybe it has to be used for the RR idler. The only thing I did add was the orings on the roller.

[Roadster Renovations]

I feel like the bracket that the RT owners install with the BRP idler is causing some of these premature failures. The farther out the idler is placed, the more tension and load is placed on the roller itself. Not to mention the added movement of the arm at the pivot point. I personally have the BRP idler without the bracket kit and it works fine. And it will not contact the tank even with the bottom bolt out of the rear shock. So not too sure why the bracket was recommended anyway, maybe it has to be used for the RR idler. The only thing I did add was the orings on the roller.

2 of the ones shown were F3's with no extended bracket, so doubtful. I think it's a quality control thing. That is why it is a hit and miss thing. Other than a few spring failures, we have yet to have a roller bearing fail. And quite a few RT's that had the bracket kit decided to upgrade with our kit with the shorter arm rather than chuck the adapter bracket and buy the RT kit.

[jroberts650]

2 of the ones shown were F3's with no extended bracket, so doubtful. I think it's a quality control thing. That is why it is a hit and miss thing. Other than a few spring failures, we have yet to have a roller bearing fail. And quite a few RT's that had the bracket kit decided to upgrade with our kit with the shorter arm rather than chuck the adapter bracket and buy the RT kit.

You stated "doubtful" but have you ever tested to see if any additional stress was caused by the bracket kit? Anyone knows that if you extend something it will have more stress in the middle or pivot point. That's pure physics. And the issues with the roller, it a simple fix...... take the roller off and add some lithium grease once or twice a year.

[Roadster Renovations]

You stated "doubtful" but have you ever tested to see if any additional stress was caused by the bracket kit? Anyone knows that if you extend something it will have more stress in the middle or pivot point. That's pure physics. And the issues with the roller, it a simple fix...... take the roller off and add some lithium grease once or twice a year.

When we designed the adapter we could have used a thinner bar stock, but we didn't. We intentionally overbuilt both the adapter bar and the damper bracket to stop any vibration or any flex. The bridge shim that we developed also causes a larger contact area to the frame to make for a firmer fit.
And as far as taking the roller off and adding grease once or twice a year, the BRP bearing is a sealed unit and not greaseable. If you are talking about the bolt and the inner race of the bearing, that is fixed and does not move so greasing it wouldn't do any good. The failure is in the bearing itself. It heats up and melts the plastic on the roller and it falls off leaving the inner part of the bearing still on the arm to dig into the belt and ruin it
There is no fixing that without redesigning it.

[AY4B]

I just measured my belt tension with my cricket 2 devise and it read 200 PSI. I have no Idea if that is where its supposed to be. I called the dealer and they told me its supposed to be 750 newtons which does not compute on a conversion app.

[Roadster Renovations]

I just measured my belt tension with my cricket 2 devise and it read 200 PSI. I have no Idea if that is where its supposed to be. I called the dealer and they told me its supposed to be 750 newtons which does not compute on a conversion app.

We run ours at about 180, so yours is pretty close. We use two Krickets; the lower range black/white one for in the air checks and the green/white one for on the ground. I set it with it up in the air (90 psi) and then check it on the ground (180psi).
Adjust belt/tension is not an easy task. It takes some practice. Where is your belt ryding on the rear flange? Should be about a credit cards' width (2-5 mm).

[AY4B]

We run ours at about 180, so yours is pretty close. We use two Krickets; the lower range black/white one for in the air checks and the green/white one for on the ground. I set it with it up in the air (90 psi) and then check it on the ground (180psi).
Adjust belt/tension is not an easy task. It takes some practice. Where is your belt ryding on the rear flange? Should be about a credit cards' width (2-5 mm).

I checked it in neutral on the ground and in the air on the top of the belt in the middle. both times it read 200 PSI.
The belt is right up on the sprocket. no space at all. The dealer just said that it will move and very until its broken in. Sounds like BS to me.

[AY4B]

I think that I probably need to adjust it myself. It may be too tight. I was reading another thread and Blueknight911 said he ran his at 170. I also need to back it off the sprocket like you say. What PSI do I need to tighten the wheel bolts after Im done?

[Roadster Renovations]

I think that I probably need to adjust it myself. It may be too tight. I was reading another thread and Blueknight911 said he ran his at 170. I also need to back it off the sprocket like you say. What PSI do I need to tighten the wheel bolts after Im done?

160 foot lbs for 2013 and up. Might drill down into this search about torquing:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...archid=7243319


Here is one on adjusting the belt:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...archid=7243327

[AY4B]

160 foot lbs for 2013 and up. Might drill down into this search about torquing:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...archid=7243319


Here is one on adjusting the belt:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...archid=7243327

Thanks that link does not work but the 160 was all I needed. Sounds like the same thing as my 2014 ST.