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  1. #1
    Active Member teninospyder's Avatar
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    Default 2014 RTL SE6 what could cause these Headlight system issues ?

    Need someone's help in understanding what is "possibly" happening here, and how to know for sure....then how to fix. Here is what I know :

    1. First noticed yesterday that when I started the Spyder, the right front headlamp appeared to be in "high beam" condition, with no light at all in the left light.
    2. Tried the hi/lo switch, and the switch would not stay in the lo beam position but the shutter sound (which I actually had never heard before and didn't even know about) appeared, and the right light seemed to show both beams trying to be on for an instant.
    3. Pulled both fuses and tried one at a time, but no light from either side unless both fuses were in.

    That's where I am right now. I'm tending to lean towards a bad rocker switch on the dash, but............not sure how to check further.
    Would 1 burned out bulb cause this ??? Doesn't seem so, but with this setup, who knows....

    From searching on this site for "headlight issues", I'm sure this isn't new to some of you. I have read about changing to LEDs and may do so while resolving this.

    Any help appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by teninospyder View Post
    Need someone's help in understanding what is "possibly" happening here, and how to know for sure....then how to fix. Here is what I know :

    1. First noticed yesterday that when I started the Spyder, the right front headlamp appeared to be in "high beam" condition, with no light at all in the left light.
    2. Tried the hi/lo switch, and the switch would not stay in the lo beam position but the shutter sound (which I actually had never heard before and didn't even know about) appeared, and the right light seemed to show both beams trying to be on for an instant.
    3. Pulled both fuses and tried one at a time, but no light from either side unless both fuses were in.

    That's where I am right now. I'm tending to lean towards a bad rocker switch on the dash, but............not sure how to check further.
    Would 1 burned out bulb cause this ??? Doesn't seem so, but with this setup, who knows....

    From searching on this site for "headlight issues", I'm sure this isn't new to some of you. I have read about changing to LEDs and may do so while resolving this.
    I do believe that 1 burnt out bulb makes the working bulb turn into high mode to compensate for the burnt out bulb.
    My reason for this is when I upgraded my headlights to led ones I tested one of the new installed leds and it only work in high mode. When I installed the other side everything went back to normal.
    Just my 2cents
    Joel


    Any help appreciated.
    I do believe that 1 burnt out bulb makes the working bulb turn into high mode to compensate for the burnt out bulb.
    My reason for this is when I upgraded my headlights to led ones I tested one of the new installed leds and it only work in high mode. When I installed the other side everything went back to normal.
    Just my 2cents
    Joel

  3. #3
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Power to the bulbs does not go through the hi/lo switch. So the switch cannot be the culprit for one bulb not coming on. Your Spyder has single filament bulbs that come on when the engine starts and first reaches idle speed. Hi/lo is controlled by shutters. So if the bulb is burnt out. Both hi and low will not work on one side. I would start there. If the hi/lo switch will not stay in position. That is a different problem and needs a different solution.

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  4. #4
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beefybudds View Post
    I do believe that 1 burnt out bulb makes the working bulb turn into high mode to compensate for the burnt out bulb.
    My reason for this is when I upgraded my headlights to led ones I tested one of the new installed leds and it only work in high mode. When I installed the other side everything went back to normal.
    Just my 2cents
    Joel
    I cannot explain your experience. But looking at the wiring diagram. There is no way for the headlight current to be monitored. So I don't think your theory is correct. Also I have not been in motor vehicle lighting in a lot of years. But when I was it would have been illegal to design a system that cannot be dimmed in some situations.

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  5. #5
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Interesting....🤔

    If the hi/lo switch is not operating properly i would start there. It will have to fixed anyway and may be causing some of the problem.
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    Quote Originally Posted by teninospyder View Post
    Need someone's help in understanding what is "possibly" happening here, and how to know for sure....then how to fix. Here is what I know

    1. First noticed yesterday that when I started the Spyder, the right front headlamp appeared to be in "high beam" condition, with no light at all in the left light.
    2. Tried the hi/lo switch, and the switch would not stay in the lo beam position but the shutter sound (which I actually had never heard before and didn't even know about) appeared, and the right light seemed to show both beams trying to be on for an instant.
    3. Pulled both fuses and tried one at a time, but no light from either side unless both fuses were in.

    That's where I am right now. I'm tending to lean towards a bad rocker switch on the dash, but............not sure how to check further.
    Would 1 burned out bulb cause this ??? Doesn't seem so, but with this setup, who knows....
    Your bike uses halogen bulbs, and they do burn out. So, replace that one first.
    While you've got the tupperware off, remove the headlight assembly with the iffy shutter and pull off the back piece to expose the shutter and bulb. It's possible the shutter mechanism is being interfered with by one of the wires in there. Or, the shutter is bad (not likely if you're hearing the shutter mechanism but possible). With the headlight assembly removed and the back piece removed, you can hook up the wires and have someone hit the hi/lo switch while you watch what is going on.

    2014 RTL Magnesium & 2014 RTL Cognac
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    I cannot explain your experience. But looking at the wiring diagram. There is no way for the headlight current to be monitored. So I don't think your theory is correct. Also I have not been in motor vehicle lighting in a lot of years. But when I was it would have been illegal to design a system that cannot be dimmed in some situations.
    I can't explain it other than what happened to me when I only had one headlight plugged in. It would stay in high beam. I thought I did something wrong but as soon as I installed the second light everything went back to normal.

  8. #8
    SpyderLovers Sponsor SpyderAnn01's Avatar
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    Beefy is correct if only one bulb is plugged in the high/low beam does not work. The OP has a burned out bulb and it is pretty easy to change. Now would be a good time to go to LED. www.tricled.com

    2017 F3T-SM6 www.TricLEDUSA.com Lights, Wide Vu Mirrors, BajaRon Sway Bar, Spyderpops Bumpskid, Roadster Reno’ Belt Tensioner, F4 Customs 21" Tinted Vented W/S, PPA Black Orb Wheels www.PPAWheels.com, Russell Day Long Saddle
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 on test drive 8,600 miles
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    Beefy is correct if only one bulb is plugged in the high/low beam does not work. The OP has a burned out bulb and it is pretty easy to change. Now would be a good time to go to LED. www.tricled.com
    I agree it's a burnt out bulb.

    Looked at the wiring diagram again. I don't see how a burnt out bulb will affect the shutters. If someone can actually explain it. That would be great. No guesses.

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  10. #10
    Active Member teninospyder's Avatar
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    Default Thanks to all for comments

    Quote Originally Posted by teninospyder View Post
    Need someone's help in understanding what is "possibly" happening here, and how to know for sure....then how to fix. Here is what I know :

    1. First noticed yesterday that when I started the Spyder, the right front headlamp appeared to be in "high beam" condition, with no light at all in the left light.
    2. Tried the hi/lo switch, and the switch would not stay in the lo beam position but the shutter sound (which I actually had never heard before and didn't even know about) appeared, and the right light seemed to show both beams trying to be on for an instant.
    3. Pulled both fuses and tried one at a time, but no light from either side unless both fuses were in.

    That's where I am right now. I'm tending to lean towards a bad rocker switch on the dash, but............not sure how to check further.
    Would 1 burned out bulb cause this ??? Doesn't seem so, but with this setup, who knows....

    From searching on this site for "headlight issues", I'm sure this isn't new to some of you. I have read about changing to LEDs and may do so while resolving this.

    Any help appreciated.

    Really appreciate all the input so far. anything others have or more that people think of, please add. Thanks again to all.

  11. #11
    Active Member BRPcare's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teninospyder View Post
    Really appreciate all the input so far. anything others have or more that people think of, please add. Thanks again to all.
    Hello @teninospyder, We are so sorry to hear about your challenges. Please send us your VIN number and contact information to brp.care@brp.com and we will have a specialist reach out to you. Stephanie - BRPcare
    BRPcare
    Social Consumer Experience Team


  12. #12
    SpyderLovers Sponsor SpyderAnn01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    I agree it's a burnt out bulb.

    Looked at the wiring diagram again. I don't see how a burnt out bulb will affect the shutters. If someone can actually explain it. That would be great. No guesses.
    I sure clarify that if only one headlight is plugged in it will affect how the other operates. I don’t know why but I have first hand knowledge that it does.

    2017 F3T-SM6 www.TricLEDUSA.com Lights, Wide Vu Mirrors, BajaRon Sway Bar, Spyderpops Bumpskid, Roadster Reno’ Belt Tensioner, F4 Customs 21" Tinted Vented W/S, PPA Black Orb Wheels www.PPAWheels.com, Russell Day Long Saddle
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 on test drive 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 loaner put 5,000 miles on it
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 retired at 59,148 miles
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    If the hi/lo switch is not operating properly i would start there. It will have to fixed anyway and may be causing some of the problem.
    The OP needs to make sure he wasn't pushing it to the 'flash' mode. There are three positions of the switch, hi, low, flash. Flash mode is momentary.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  14. #14
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    teninospyder, have you implemented any of these suggestions? it would be nice to get some feedback from you. Thanks.

    2014 RTL Magnesium & 2014 RTL Cognac
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    If the hi/lo switch will not stay in position. That is a different problem and needs a different solution.
    In addition, that switch has TWO "high" positions: Center is normal, low beam. Push one way for continuous high beam, push the other for momentary high beam (flash to pass). What he is seeing with the switch is likely normal.
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post

    I sure clarify that if only one headlight is plugged in it will affect how the other operates. I don’t know why but I have first hand knowledge that it does.
    I finally remembered what the deal is and why you are 1/2 correct! The connector on the left headlight harness has a jumper on it that keeps the low beam relay energized. When you disconnect the headlight the bulb will not be powered when you turn on high beam since it's a single filament bulb and the power to it is on the low beam circuit only.

    If you disconnect the right headlight nothing changes with the high/low beam operation.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by teninospyder View Post
    Need someone's help in understanding what is "possibly" happening here, and how to know for sure....then how to fix. Here is what I know :

    1. First noticed yesterday that when I started the Spyder, the right front headlamp appeared to be in "high beam" condition, with no light at all in the left light.
    2. Tried the hi/lo switch, and the switch would not stay in the lo beam position but the shutter sound (which I actually had never heard before and didn't even know about) appeared, and the right light seemed to show both beams trying to be on for an instant.
    3. Pulled both fuses and tried one at a time, but no light from either side unless both fuses were in.

    That's where I am right now. I'm tending to lean towards a bad rocker switch on the dash, but............not sure how to check further.
    Would 1 burned out bulb cause this ??? Doesn't seem so, but with this setup, who knows....

    From searching on this site for "headlight issues", I'm sure this isn't new to some of you. I have read about changing to LEDs and may do so while resolving this.

    Any help appreciated.
    After all the discussion above and remembering how the headlights are wired, I'm inclined to think you have a broken wire or separated connector going to the left headlight and so the low beam relay, and thus the single filament bulb, is not being powered when you switch to high beam.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  18. #18
    Active Member teninospyder's Avatar
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    Default thanks about my headlight issues - status right now

    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    teninospyder, have you implemented any of these suggestions? it would be nice to get some feedback from you. Thanks.
    Sorry I haven't updated the status of my work on this issue. I was really going to....when I had it resolved. Some of these new comments of mine may surprise you.....based on different issues we all face with these things. Other comments I have here won't surprise some of you at all.

    First off, I have taken everyone's comments and knowledge about this into my little, getting older by the hour brain, and am currently waiting for my new TricLED headlights to be delivered (maybe even today !).

    I have "a lot of hope" from what all of you have provided (and by watching videos about the bulb replacement process), that my issues are REALLY only caused by a burned out left bulb and my own stupidity about the light switch operation. The last few comments I read this AM....about what the light switch does......is probably my whole problem other than the burned out bulb. I admitted before that I didn't know anything about the shutter system being on this Spyder, nor apparently did I know that the "lower position" on the rocker switch was for "flashing for pass". I never had to use it, that I know of, and as I said above I admit to not remembering everything I read in the past from the manuals and elsewhere about all the "gadgets, options, processes, etc," we have at our disposal on a Spyder. No excuses people....just a fact of life for me lately......you should watch me looking for keys or my cell phone !!! :-))

    Anyway, I will update after I put in the new bulbs, I promise. Now for my one disappointing comment here.

    Along the way in the posting process I received (you can read it) one from BRPCares saying they were sorry to hear of my issues and if I would forward my VIN and contact info they would have a tech get in touch with me and try to help. I sent the info, including my write-up from this forum. The next day I received an email from someone at BRP suggesting only that I take it to a dealer for a diagnosis of the problem. This is a 2014 Spyder RTL, which is obviously out of "factory" warranty. When I queried back whether or not this would be "free", the answer was NO. Unless it was found to be a warranty issue I would have to pay for the dealer check. That is the extent of the entire conversation to me from BRPCARES.

    Now, what did I expect? I expected per the original post they made to me at this forum that I would receive a call from a tech that could help me understand how this system worked, and what could cause what I was seeing. That's all. Appears that may have been too much to expect.

    I WILL update all on the outcome after the bulb swap. Thanks for listening.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by teninospyder View Post
    Now, what did I expect? I expected per the original post they made to me at this forum that I would receive a call from a tech that could help me understand how this system worked, and what could cause what I was seeing. That's all. Appears that may have been too much to expect.
    Other than with rare exception BRP factory staff do not converse directly with owners. Actually, I was a bit surprised to see the BRPCares post for your issue. But it does show that BRP does monitor this forum. I'm sure they make notes about problems and issues that owners encounter. In due time that probably influences future production changes and design.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

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    Default BRP Upgrades

    Maybe 'Father BRP' Could listen to TIPS on this Forum and UPGRADE THE SPYDER . MY 2

  21. #21
    Active Member teninospyder's Avatar
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    Default OK, Got bulbs replaced and here are the results

    As promised in my last post....which I won't copy into here to save you time.

    After being very careful for about 3.5 hours (because this is "really" my first body parts removal/replacement project), I now have the new TricLED headlights in and they appear....as everyone that has done this knows.....very white and very bright !! Absolutely no disappointment in them. Following are project summary comments for you:

    1. The status of the OEM bulbs I removed after 3.5 years - 1 had a broken filament (the left hand bulb), and the remaining 1 was cloudy white on the inside (probably ready to go).
    2. Everything about the lights AND the Light switch now works as it should. High beam, low beam, flashing capability. To me it is obvious that 1 burned out headlight can affect the overall operation of the remaining light and the switch.
    3. Body parts and replacement "not too bad", except had trouble getting the mirrors back on until I looked at youtube again :-))
    4. Kinda side comment.....I did find 1 of the right side panel grommets missing, and I will get a replacement because I noticed the panel does flex a little there. Also found another one disfigured somehow, like the panel tried to push it out. I'm sure you know what I mean, but it came back to shape after sitting a few minutes.

    THANKS AGAIN TO ALL OF YOU WHO PROVIDED INPUT ON THIS !! While I "probably" would have done it without your comments, I'm sure I would have been far more afraid along the way :-))

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by teninospyder View Post
    3. Body parts and replacement "not too bad", except had trouble getting the mirrors back on until I looked at youtube again :-))
    4. Kinda side comment.....I did find 1 of the right side panel grommets missing, and I will get a replacement because I noticed the panel does flex a little there. Also found another one disfigured somehow, like the panel tried to push it out. I'm sure you know what I mean, but it came back to shape after sitting a few minutes.
    Get a set of Magic Mirror magnetic mounts and have them at the ready for when you need to take the mirrors off again. One of best functional only farkles you can install!

    If you didn't do it, be sure to use something like windex to wet the grommets next time. Makes it much easier to push the panels on and then dries so the grommets don't stay slick. Did you look around for the missing grommet? It might have been caught somewhere behind the tupperware. Happened to me a time or two. Also, one of the best recommendations here is to put a tether on those side panels. Once in a rare while one will come off while traveling. The consequences are usually not good. If you install the Baker Air Wings they serve the same purpose.

    Still scratching my head over how a burned out filament can cause the problems you encountered. It just does not make any sense at all, according to the wiring diagram, how a burned out filament will do anything other than make that headlight go off.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

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