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  1. #1
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    Question 2015 F3 clutch vacuum assist

    Hi all,
    Does anyone have a copy of the Can Am memo that has instructions for installing a vacuum assist on the F3? If I could get a copy, I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
    John Mc

    Go toward the end for instructions on this installation.
    Last edited by JohnMc; 04-17-2018 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Found out how to do it!

  2. #2
    Active Member Don'tPanic's Avatar
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    Default Vacuum assist

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
    Hi all,
    Does anyone have a copy of the Can Am memo that has instructions for installing a vacuum assist on the F3? If I could get a copy, I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
    John Mc
    Here you go: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...=1#post1249563

    Another option is - ask your dealer to replace your clutch with the one from RT. My dealer said it's a $200 job that makes the F3's clutch a lot lighter.
    Last edited by Don'tPanic; 12-29-2017 at 10:27 AM.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Don'tPanic View Post
    Here you go: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...=1#post1249563

    Another option is - ask your dealer to replace your clutch with the one from RT. My dealer said it's a $200 job that makes the F3's clutch a lot lighter.
    That's interesting, I loved the clutch on the RT. My F3T is a bit harder to pull

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    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    That's interesting, I loved the clutch on the RT. My F3T is a bit harder to pull
    Even with the vacuum assist (under warranty thanks to my dealer sending memo's) on my 2015 its still only about 70% as Easy as my 2012 RT was -and that (As you indicate) was a Joy to shift.

    I would pay to get that clutch improvement on the F3 instead of vacuum assist??
    Anyone know any more about this?

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

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    Default

    Wow,
    The RT clutch option is very interesting. I had never hear of that. As to the parts listing for the vacuum assist, I had that. I am looking for installation instructions. Anyone have more information on the RT clutch?

  6. #6
    Active Member Don'tPanic's Avatar
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    Lightbulb RT clutch on F3

    You can contact my dealer (absolutely amazing folks) about the F3 clutch replacement: https://smithmarineusa.com

    I'm not affiliated with them in any way other than I bought my ryde there and I was impressed by their service and prices. It's one of the oldest BRP dealers in the country, and they are a family business that actually care about their customers.
    When I mentioned to them how hard the clutch pull is on F3, they said that for about $200 they can replace it with the one from RT to make it feather-light. I don't know the exact procedure, but you can call them for more details.

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    Default

    Thanks to all for the replies. I believe the kit is for installing RT components onto an F3. That would be why some dealers are saying replace with RT clutch. The going price for labor is about $200.00. Naturally, I want to do it myself. I asked the local dealer for a copy of the memo and was told they would not release it to me. Then, they offered to sell me the parts. I have never liked the outfit anyway...... So, reviewing RT schematics and I can see how the solenoid and check valve are located within the vacuum hose routing. Still cannot figure out where two lines connect in after the valves. If I get this figured out, I will share the information.
    Regards all,
    John MC

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    Default 2015 F3 Clutch Assist

    OK all. I did it. Some free advice and worth every penny. Buy just the solenoid and check valve from a can am dealer. Buy two packages of 10 of the 3/8 inch spring clamps for fuel and vacuum hoses off the web. You have to do this because auto stores only sell variety packs of multiple sizes and since you will need so many, it would cost a fortune. You can buy 3mm vacuum hose from internet or local auto parts dealer. You will also need a four or five 8" cable ties and a couple of those vacuum tube splice tubes, or whatever they are called (to connect two hoses end-to-end).

    First read the service bulletin instructions. Then go the the Youtube video entitled tips for installing vacuum assist on an F3. You can try to install it the way the tech did, but lacking his tools it probably won't work (I spend over 2 hours attempting to place those lousy screws into the plenum before giving up. However, knock yourself out if you wish.

    How I ended up doing it:
    Remove side panels.
    Move the charcoal canister located to the upper left of the ECM and stuff. All you are doing is sliding it up so the bracket will clear the slots and move it slightly so you can see the top of the plenum. You are not removing the canister, only moving it out of the way slightly. It slides back in after you are done.

    You will see two vacuum nipples on the front top of the plenum. The outside one is very small and does not have a cap. YOU WILL NOT USE THIS ONE. There is another vacuum port just inside of the uncapped one. That one is capped and you will need to carefully remove that cap. This is where you will make your first hose attachment. Attach about a foot of hose and put the spring clamp on to seal the nipple. Just drape this hose out the left side of vehicle.

    Locate the shunted electronic control connection just above and inside of the ECM and stuff. It will be plastic tied to the main wiring harness. First find the shunt end. You will know this because it just ends. There will be one tie holding this attachment against the main wiring harness. Cut the tie and move the connection out so you can remove the wire clip and remove the shunt. This control connection is what attaches to the solenoid. Attach it now or wait so you can decide exactly where you are going to plastic tie the solenoid in.

    Decide where you are going to tie in your solenoid. Attach about a foot of hose to the solenoid IAW the bulletin. Make sure it has a spring clamp. This is the hose you are going to connect to the check valve that goes between the solenoid and plenum. The Arrow on the valve points toward the plenum. If you have not done so, now is the time to figure out where you are tying the solenoid to everything. That will dictate how long the the hose from the plenum and the hose from the solenoid will be. Give the hoses some slack so they are not hard rubbing against anything. Route as appropriate. You will have extra hose to cut away before attaching the hose from the plenum to the check valve and the check valve to the solenoid. Better than not enough! Time to go to the other side of the machine.

    Locate the vacuum line that connects the clutch to the right side of the plenum. Locate a point on the line that you can easily work on. Cut the line and use one of the splice connectors to continue a line from the clutch to the solenoid. I cut mine about a foot from the clutch housing. Attach about two foot of line to the clutch line splicing in with the connector and spring clamps. Run the line across the bottom of the engine below the intake and attach it to the appropriate nipple on the solenoid. You will need to cut the lines to custom fit things so there is no strain on anything.

    The last vacuum line. Splice into the line that attaches to the right side of the plenum. It is the one you cut. Use the splice connector and add about two foot of vacuum line. As usual spring clamps required. Run the hose across the bottom of the engine below the intake and attach to the appropriate nipple on the solenoid. As with the other hoses, you will need to custom cut to ensure neatness and no strain on the lines.

    If you have not done so, make the electrical connection to the solenoid. Makes sure you reinstall the wire clip.

    Start the vehicle. You should feel improved (easier) clutch pull when the vehicle is running. Turn it off and you will have to apply more pull to work the clutch. This thing is working like a vacuum boost on brakes. If things are not as they should be, check your connections to ensure all is hooked up as per the bulletin. This improves the clutch. Does it make it effortless? Not at all. It does improve things and may prevent hand cramps in town (at least for my 70 year old hands).

    This is an hour job, at most. Using this method. Attempting to remove the clutch vacuum line from the front right of the plenum and attaching the solenoid in its engineered location takes much longer - to never. I threw those two solenoid attachment screws into the pond after two fruitless hours. I did not even try to remove the clutch vacuum line from the front right of the plenum. I just cut and spliced the line.

    If anyone needs the service bulletin, PM me and I will send the PDFs your way. The PDFs are not super clear but reviewing the PDFs and watching the very helpful video (not mine) on Youtube makes this doable.

    Hope the above helps. Regards all.
    Last edited by JohnMc; 07-11-2018 at 04:55 PM.

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