New 2017 F3T Battery not holding a charge

[Tazzel]

Now that it has gotten cold my F3T is having a hard time starting even when battery is on a tender. I take Frunk off to access the battery and put a clamp battery charger on and it will charge up but after 1 or 2 starts the battery is dead again. Is this just the battery or could it be more serious? Thank goodness I have the Lamonster Battery Jump Pack that I have in emergencies.

[JKMSPYDER]

It could be that the battery was not properly charged during dealer prep.

[Rob Rodriguez]

Sounds like the battery isn't charging while riding. I'd bring it back to the dealer.

[Tazzel]

If I am out riding, so far there has not been a problem there with the bike not starting but if it sits for more the 4 or 5 days (and it is cold weather) it does not want to start even when I have the battery tender on. If I fully charge using a clamp battery charger it will start a few times while sitting (not riding at all) and then not start the next morning. Do you think this is the battery or something more serious?

[Highwayman2013]

Either the battery is bad or the charging system is weak. Get the battery load tested at a Batteries Plus or equivalent.

[Tazzel]

How can you test if the "charging system" is weak?

[Highwayman2013]

How can you test if the "charging system" is weak?

A volt meter on the battery posts. 12.6 volts at battery not running, 13.5 to 14.5 at 4,000 rpm running.

[Tazzel]

Has anyone changed out a battery on a F3? How hard is it. Looks like it is tucked in there pretty good.

[CA Railwhale]

Has anyone changed out a battery on a F3? How hard is it. Looks like it is tucked in there pretty good.

I haven't changed mine, but I have worked on and around it a lot adding electrical systems. It's not hard, just pull the rivets holding the Frunk in, pull the Frunk which takes some pressing and twisting and you have full access to the battery, battery mounts and fuse panels. After the first time it only takes a couple of minutes to pull everything. Just be careful with the rivets, they get lost easily. I now keep a package of spares on hand.

Another way to check the charging system is to set a VOM on Amperes and with the engine running, disconnect the positive battery cable and put one lead on the positive battery cable and the other on the positive battery terminal. That will show you the actual amperes the alternator is putting out. However just measuring the voltage change between engine off and engine running is usually adequate to verify that the charging system is working. To check Amps, the meter actually has to be in the circuit, that's why the car makers don't put ammeters in cars anymore.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

It could be that the battery was not properly charged during dealer prep.

..... My brand new 2014 RT battery failed on my way home from the dealer, for the above reason ...... But if your Spyder is in warranty .... get the dealer to fix it ....... jmho......annnnnnnnnnd Happy New Year, ... Mike

[CA Railwhale]

If I am out riding, so far there has not been a problem there with the bike not starting but if it sits for more the 4 or 5 days (and it is cold weather) it does not want to start even when I have the battery tender on. If I fully charge using a clamp battery charger it will start a few times while sitting (not riding at all) and then not start the next morning. Do you think this is the battery or something more serious?

Have the battery load tested (it's usually free) if it's OK, then start looking for a 12 volt accessory pulling power with the bike off. I'd start with things like GPSs and radios, then go to any electrical accessories that you've had added to the bike. If you have to go that route, it may take a while, cars and bikes aren't designed to easily troubleshoot electrical faults. That's why I do most of my own electrical work on my F3, I run power to a distribution point and then split it to different loads using connectors that can be opened and closed like the flip lever ones that Lamonster provides although I've gone him one better and gotten five-port fasteners to use as distribution points. I mounted three up under the left side panel with the safety instructions on it; one switched, one always hot and one ground. It makes working on things fast and easy and is high enough to stay dry. Oh a hint from thirty five years as a TELCO tech, ALWAYS label your wiring. What makes sense today can result in you spending hours tracing and cursing yourself in a few months or a year trying to figure out just what you were thinking when you did something. A couple of minutes with a label maker or sharpie is a great investment in peace of mind.

[bscrive]

Have the battery load tested (it's usually free) if it's OK, then start looking for a 12 volt accessory pulling power with the bike off. I'd start with things like GPSs and radios, then go to any electrical accessories that you've had added to the bike. If you have to go that route, it may take a while, cars and bikes aren't designed to easily troubleshoot electrical faults. That's why I do most of my own electrical work on my F3, I run power to a distribution point and then split it to different loads using connectors that can be opened and closed like the flip lever ones that Lamonster provides although I've gone him one better and gotten five-port fasteners to use as distribution points. I mounted three up under the left side panel with the safety instructions on it; one switched, one always hot and one ground. It makes working on things fast and easy and is high enough to stay dry. Oh a hint from thirty five years as a TELCO tech, ALWAYS label your wiring. What makes sense today can result in you spending hours tracing and cursing yourself in a few months or a year trying to figure out just what you were thinking when you did something. A couple of minutes with a label maker or sharpie is a great investment in peace of mind.

You are a smart man CA!!

[Chupaca]

one of the three main causes....
Bad battery be it not charged properly or failing
charging system weak or not ryding long enough to get a full charge back
something on the unit that is drawing on the battery when parked or running so the battery does not get enough charge back...
Let us know what you find....9

[Tazzel]

Well since it only a 2017 and still under warranty, I will have the dealer check the battery and the battery charging system. I have not added any accessories only the stock radio that it came with so if tracing an electrical issue, I will leave that up to the dealer. Other then that I might take off the battery tender. This is the only extra thing connected to the battery and it is stacked with the Spyder battery connection. I might take the tender off to eliminate as an issue. I am hopping it is something simple.

[Rattlebars]

Many battery "failures" are due to loose cables. If you are clamping onto the cable, the charge may not get to the battery if your cables are loose. Tighten them the best method being loosen, remove, re-install tight.

[Tazzel]

Many battery "failures" are due to loose cables. If you are clamping onto the cable, the charge may not get to the battery if your cables are loose. Tighten them the best method being loosen, remove, re-install tight.

That's what I thought the problem was at first, main cable seemed tight but the battery tender neg cable was loose, tighten it up and seemed to have solve the problem until the temp dropped to 8 degrees for a couple of days. Now Spyder cant turn over one its own, I have to use a Jump pack on it.

[rays hell]

I had a bad battery on my new 16 F3 I bought last Fdb.a week after I got it home. Dealer installed a new one. Good to go.
On another note a mechanic told me to Never disconnect positive or negative terminal while vehicle is running.
Auto parts stores have testers to check battery and charging system while vehicle is running and everything is intact. And they will run the test for free.

[CA Railwhale]

You are a smart man CA!!

I don't know how smart I am, but in thirty five years working for the Bell System, I made many mistakes and tried to learn from them. But thanks for the compliment anyway.

[CA Railwhale]

Well since it only a 2017 and still under warranty, I will have the dealer check the battery and the battery charging system. I have not added any accessories only the stock radio that it came with so if tracing an electrical issue, I will leave that up to the dealer. Other then that I might take off the battery tender. This is the only extra thing connected to the battery and it is stacked with the Spyder battery connection. I might take the tender off to eliminate as an issue. I am hopping it is something simple.

Since it's under warranty, let the dealer's tech have the headaches.

[Capt. Bob]

Has anyone changed out a battery on a F3? How hard is it. Looks like it is tucked in there pretty good.

I just changed the battery on my 3.5 year-old F3S. I bought the battery from Lamonster Garage (MotoBatt for $146 shipped) that includes some specially machined brass battery posts by Lamonster. The R&R of the battery is very simple. Just remove the top plastic plate over the Frunk, then pull the 4 pins holding in the Frunk and you will find a rubber band that holds the battery in place. Undo the rubber band, disconnect the negative wire first and then the positive wire (red), and drop in the replacement battery and attach in reverse order (red first followed by the black ground wire). Tighten the wires to the terminals, put on the rubber band that holds the battery and it is all done except to put the Frunk back in with the 4 push pins and then the plastic top shelf that fits under the headlight. The Lamonster battery is a highly regarded unit for the original Yuasa battery and is a sealed battery with no maintenance. I chose to add a set of Battery Tender terminals to the Lamonster brass terminal posts for possible extended storage and have left the charging wire underneath the plastic Frunk cover.

[Little Blue]

All very good TIPS. I definitely Would take the Bike to your local Spyder Dealer. Please let everyone know about the final fix. Little Blue

[fatboy]

y are you starting it when its that cold for one two you are probably not letting it run long enough to put charge back in from starting it just my 2

[trikermutha]

Take it in and let them test the battery. IF its bad they will let you know.

Or if its a charging system issue that can be checked with a voltmeter when running.

Even your local auto store will test the battery for you for free.

[SpyderConvert]

Just a thought, in your original post, you said that it would not start even with the battery tender on; 1. did you mean that it had been on the battery tender and then you took it off?, or 2. did you try to start the bike with the battery tender attached? If it was #2, I would check the battery tender as the instructions clearly state that you should NOT try to start the bike with the tender attached. Just my 2 cents.

[Tazzel]

Just a thought, in your original post, you said that it would not start even with the battery tender on; 1. did you mean that it had been on the battery tender and then you took it off?, or 2. did you try to start the bike with the battery tender attached? If it was #2, I would check the battery tender as the instructions clearly state that you should NOT try to start the bike with the tender attached. Just my 2 cents.

No I never start with tender connected. I have already taken the Frunk Tub out of the Frunk to get directly to the Battery to take a look see once again and put the clamp battery charger on directly to the posts. Let it charge over night. Battery charger says battery is charged, try to start but battery still is not strong enough to turn the engine over. Put clamp battery charger back on and it shows battery needs a full charge again. I have called the dealer and waiting for a call back. I can use the Lamonster Jump pack to start her up, lets just hope I can get to the dealer.