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  1. #1
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    Default Temp and fuel gauge inop

    Anyone been down this path before? Both analog gauges stopped working at the same time while riding. Also lost the dash lights in the instrument cluster. Both of the fuses for the cluster and the gauges were not blown. Replaced them any way with no luck. Hoping to avoid dealer visit during the holiday's week. I do have an extended BRP warranty on my 2014 RTS.
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    Very Active Member jtoro1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumble_B View Post
    Anyone been down this path before? Both analog gauges stopped working at the same time while riding. Also lost the dash lights in the instrument cluster. Both of the fuses for the cluster and the gauges were not blown. Replaced them any way with no luck. Hoping to avoid dealer visit during the holiday's week. I do have an extended BRP warranty on my 2014 RTS.


    DISCONNECT THEM SO THE DIGITAL GAUGES COME UP ON THE DISPLAY THE ANALOG GAUGES ARE NOT ACCURATE

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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    If both gauges and the dash lights died at the same time my slow brain says that points to a loose connection, a short to ground or a loose ground connection. I've never bothered to disconnect my analog gauges to see how much more accurate the digital bars are but that's because I have a pretty good estimate of how many miles I have left when the low fuel light comes on. Checking ground connections would be my first effort, but I'd have to dive into the wiring diagrams to determine where to begin.
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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Bummer.....

    Would start with what add ons do you have if any. Like led lights, power outlets etc that may have caused the fueses to blow. The fact that the two fueses are blown makes it some connection or overload problem. It would also seem to be more in the instrument panel area. What work has been done lately..? may have to backtrack if any changes were made.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    The fact that the two fueses are blown makes it some connection or overload problem.
    He said they were NOT blown.

    Checking for voltage at the fuses might be a good place to start tracing though.

    A meter will be required.
    And a wiring diagram probably.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    He said they were NOT blown.

    Checking for voltage at the fuses might be a good place to start tracing though.

    A meter will be required.
    And a wiring diagram probably.
    Pretty sure the bike would be better off with me not rippin and tearin without the proper tools or diagrams
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    Would start with what add ons do you have if any. Like led lights, power outlets etc that may have caused the fueses to blow. The fact that the two fueses are blown makes it some connection or overload problem. It would also seem to be more in the instrument panel area. What work has been done lately..? may have to backtrack if any changes were made.
    No changes at all. Fuses were not blown.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtoro1 View Post
    DISCONNECT THEM SO THE DIGITAL GAUGES COME UP ON THE DISPLAY THE ANALOG GAUGES ARE NOT ACCURATE
    That does NOT solve the problem, since other things failed too.

    And some of us LIKE the analog gauges, thank you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    That does NOT solve the problem, since other things failed too.

    And some of us LIKE the analog gauges, thank you.
    Disconnecting the analog gauges I think is just a troubleshooting tactic, not a solution.
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Disconnecting the analog gauges I think is just a troubleshooting tactic, not a solution.
    Agreed. I wanted to know the coolant temp for a long ride this weekend, so this got the job done temporarily.
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Disconnecting the analog gauges I think is just a troubleshooting tactic, not a solution.
    Yes of course with the symptoms listed.
    But the post I replied to seemed to be proposing that as a fix.

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    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Just a clarification--maybe?

    I am thinking there are a couple things going on here.

    Electrical gremlins seem to be the problem of the OP's reason for posting. It is beginning to seem like the analog disconnect is not completely solving the OP's issues.

    Prior to this thread, the issue for disconnecting the analog gauges was the fact that the early RT's seemed to have "wonky" as in moving around, gas gauges. I had two repairs under warranty on my 2010. They did not solve the issue. I said heck with it. Disconnected the analogs and went to the digitals. No more issues on the 2010.

    When I bought Linda the 2011, she experienced the same thing. Gas gauge all over the place. Rather than go through the warranty stuff again, I just disconnected the analogs. Gas gauge issues solved.

    The 2014 gauges are rock solid. Not needed this go around.
    I do not know why--but you are supposed to disconnect both analog gauges--not just the wonky gas gauge.

    Hope this added information is helpful.

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    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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