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  1. #1
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    Default Temp and fuel gauge inop

    Anyone been down this path before? Both analog gauges stopped working at the same time while riding. Also lost the dash lights in the instrument cluster. Both of the fuses for the cluster and the gauges were not blown. Replaced them any way with no luck. Hoping to avoid dealer visit during the holiday's week. I do have an extended BRP warranty on my 2014 RTS.
    2014 RT-S SE6 Circuit Yellow

  2. #2
    Very Active Member jtoro1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumble_B View Post
    Anyone been down this path before? Both analog gauges stopped working at the same time while riding. Also lost the dash lights in the instrument cluster. Both of the fuses for the cluster and the gauges were not blown. Replaced them any way with no luck. Hoping to avoid dealer visit during the holiday's week. I do have an extended BRP warranty on my 2014 RTS.


    DISCONNECT THEM SO THE DIGITAL GAUGES COME UP ON THE DISPLAY THE ANALOG GAUGES ARE NOT ACCURATE

  3. #3
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    If both gauges and the dash lights died at the same time my slow brain says that points to a loose connection, a short to ground or a loose ground connection. I've never bothered to disconnect my analog gauges to see how much more accurate the digital bars are but that's because I have a pretty good estimate of how many miles I have left when the low fuel light comes on. Checking ground connections would be my first effort, but I'd have to dive into the wiring diagrams to determine where to begin.
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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Bummer.....

    Would start with what add ons do you have if any. Like led lights, power outlets etc that may have caused the fueses to blow. The fact that the two fueses are blown makes it some connection or overload problem. It would also seem to be more in the instrument panel area. What work has been done lately..? may have to backtrack if any changes were made.
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtoro1 View Post
    DISCONNECT THEM SO THE DIGITAL GAUGES COME UP ON THE DISPLAY THE ANALOG GAUGES ARE NOT ACCURATE
    That does NOT solve the problem, since other things failed too.

    And some of us LIKE the analog gauges, thank you.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    The fact that the two fueses are blown makes it some connection or overload problem.
    He said they were NOT blown.

    Checking for voltage at the fuses might be a good place to start tracing though.

    A meter will be required.
    And a wiring diagram probably.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    Would start with what add ons do you have if any. Like led lights, power outlets etc that may have caused the fueses to blow. The fact that the two fueses are blown makes it some connection or overload problem. It would also seem to be more in the instrument panel area. What work has been done lately..? may have to backtrack if any changes were made.
    No changes at all. Fuses were not blown.
    2014 RT-S SE6 Circuit Yellow

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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    He said they were NOT blown.

    Checking for voltage at the fuses might be a good place to start tracing though.

    A meter will be required.
    And a wiring diagram probably.
    Pretty sure the bike would be better off with me not rippin and tearin without the proper tools or diagrams
    2014 RT-S SE6 Circuit Yellow

  9. #9
    Very Active Member IGETAROUND's Avatar
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    Default Temp and Fuel gauge

    Quote Originally Posted by Bumble_B View Post
    Pretty sure the bike would be better off with me not rippin and tearin without the proper tools or diagrams
    Well there you go, the decision has been mad, take it to the dealer and let them trouble shoot it under warranty.

    Merry Christmas to all


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    All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!


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  10. #10
    Consumer Advocate akspyderman's Avatar
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    Another card for the let the dealer figure it out--under warranty.

    Disconnecting the analog gauges to let the digitals operate was a common thing in the pre-2014 RT models. The gas gauges were "wonky" and moved all over the place--making them very inaccurate. The heat gauge was always ok for me.

    I ended up doing it on my 2010 RT and the 2011 RT. Have not needed to do that on the 2014 which for me, has a rock solid gas gauge. I still keep track of miles on the tank by setting a trip meter to zero at each and every fill.

    Currently Owned: 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium), 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) Pictures of 2008 and 2009 Spyders are in Alaska Albums 2009 and 2010.
    5 Spyders, 9 years, 139,000 miles, 5 Spyder miles per post.


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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Another card for the let the dealer figure it out--under warranty.
    I must have missed where he said that his 2014 is still under warranty.

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    The dealer cannot work me in to his schedule until the second week of January. Can someone tell me exactly how to unplug the two analog gauges so I get a readout for the 350 mile end of year ride this Saturday?
    2014 RT-S SE6 Circuit Yellow

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumble_B View Post
    The dealer cannot work me in to his schedule until the second week of January.
    It appears that there are about 7 dealers not too far from you.
    Surely one of them should be able to tell you how to disconnect the gauges........and maybe even do it for you.......if they understand what it takes to make new customers.

  14. #14
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    Good news. Dealer service mgr. called back to let me know he will try to get me in tomorrow. Unfortunately, I told him we cannot have the bike tied up waiting for a part? He walked me through the very easy steps to unplug the gauges and I am good for now.
    2014 RT-S SE6 Circuit Yellow

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Thanks

    Good news and thanks for letting us know how this issue is going. We seldom get the steps and many time never hear if they fixed it or not....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California



    ​2012 RS sm5


  16. #16
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    One more question. The coolant bar graph is functioning. It reads in a yellow color. The fuel bar graph registers in what color? I saw a blue graph in an old you tube video. I know my fuel is low, 175miles on tank, but all I see is a light gray shade. What should I see on a 2014 when I fill up??
    2014 RT-S SE6 Circuit Yellow

  17. #17
    Consumer Advocate akspyderman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumble_B View Post
    One more question. The coolant bar graph is functioning. It reads in a yellow color. The fuel bar graph registers in what color? I saw a blue graph in an old you tube video. I know my fuel is low, 175miles on tank, but all I see is a light gray shade. What should I see on a 2014 when I fill up??
    When you re-fill the tank, it should show in blue on the bar graph.

    Currently Owned: 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium), 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) Pictures of 2008 and 2009 Spyders are in Alaska Albums 2009 and 2010.
    5 Spyders, 9 years, 139,000 miles, 5 Spyder miles per post.


  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    When you re-fill the tank, it should show in blue on the bar graph.
    OK. Thanks. Hope it works. Just realized there is no low fuel light on either.
    2014 RT-S SE6 Circuit Yellow

  19. #19
    Consumer Advocate akspyderman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumble_B View Post
    OK. Thanks. Hope it works. Just realized there is no low fuel light on either.
    On your 2014, the low fuel light should kick in at about 200 miles--if--you filled the tank to the brim last go around. It is sounding like you have some electronic issues though.

    I would get a full tank as quick as possible and see how it goes from there. Zero a trip meter so you know how many miles on the current tank.

    Let us know how its going.

    Currently Owned: 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium), 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) Pictures of 2008 and 2009 Spyders are in Alaska Albums 2009 and 2010.
    5 Spyders, 9 years, 139,000 miles, 5 Spyder miles per post.


  20. #20
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    I must have missed where he said that his 2014 is still under warranty.
    +1! RT Whole FP, Bros!
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
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    ******************************
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    Tri-Axis Handlebars, Zumo 590 GPS, Kradellock,
    Comfort Seat with Adjustable Backrest,
    BajaRon Sway Bar & Heim Links, SM10 Bluetooth Dongle,
    Spyderpops Bump Skid, Missing Belt Guard, KOTT Grilles

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    That does NOT solve the problem, since other things failed too.

    And some of us LIKE the analog gauges, thank you.
    Disconnecting the analog gauges I think is just a troubleshooting tactic, not a solution.

    2014 RTL Magnesium & 2014 RTL Cognac
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Disconnecting the analog gauges I think is just a troubleshooting tactic, not a solution.
    Agreed. I wanted to know the coolant temp for a long ride this weekend, so this got the job done temporarily.
    2014 RT-S SE6 Circuit Yellow

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Disconnecting the analog gauges I think is just a troubleshooting tactic, not a solution.
    Yes of course with the symptoms listed.
    But the post I replied to seemed to be proposing that as a fix.

  24. #24
    Consumer Advocate akspyderman's Avatar
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    Just a clarification--maybe?

    I am thinking there are a couple things going on here.

    Electrical gremlins seem to be the problem of the OP's reason for posting. It is beginning to seem like the analog disconnect is not completely solving the OP's issues.

    Prior to this thread, the issue for disconnecting the analog gauges was the fact that the early RT's seemed to have "wonky" as in moving around, gas gauges. I had two repairs under warranty on my 2010. They did not solve the issue. I said heck with it. Disconnected the analogs and went to the digitals. No more issues on the 2010.

    When I bought Linda the 2011, she experienced the same thing. Gas gauge all over the place. Rather than go through the warranty stuff again, I just disconnected the analogs. Gas gauge issues solved.

    The 2014 gauges are rock solid. Not needed this go around.
    I do not know why--but you are supposed to disconnect both analog gauges--not just the wonky gas gauge.

    Hope this added information is helpful.

    Currently Owned: 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium), 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) Pictures of 2008 and 2009 Spyders are in Alaska Albums 2009 and 2010.
    5 Spyders, 9 years, 139,000 miles, 5 Spyder miles per post.


  25. #25
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    Just filled with fuel. Turned ignition on and had an ORANGE bar graph al the way to the top. Started and graph grayed out. Parked in garage. Turned ignition back to on and had a full orange bar graph again. Started and grayed out. Dropping off at dealer right after New Years and they will work it in.

    No one else has had these symptoms before??

    Will let you know what dealer outcome is.....
    2014 RT-S SE6 Circuit Yellow

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