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  1. #1
    Member RT Eddy's Avatar
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    Default Is my motor TOO cold?!

    I have an 2014 3 cylinder RT that I ride daily. I've put 4,000 miles on my Spyder since buying it just 3 months ago.

    Over the past few weeks when leaving on my 30 minute commute to work, it has often been in the teens and twenties (-9 to -2 for the rest of you). I've noticed that it takes several minutes for the temperature bar graph to register even one bar; and then it takes another 15-20 minutes to register two bars on the graph. (I do not have the analog temperature gauge like the limited models have). By the time I arrive at work, only three bars are showing. The first and last 5 minutes of my ride are slower neighborhood and city streets, with the rest being 70 mph on the interstate. I use the Can-Am recommended XPS oil and accelerate like an old man with nowhere to go.

    My Spyder is stored at night in a non-heated garage. I do let it idle for 30-60 seconds before leaving while selecting my iPod music playlist for the ride!

    So my question is, might I be causing harm to the engine by running my bike at highway speeds when the motor is so cold and only showing one digital bar on the gauge? Should I let it idle for a few minutes in the driveway prior to leaving home or am I being overly concerned about nothing?

    I've seen where diesel trucks and buses block the radiator intakes with cardboard to keep the engine warmer during winter, but giant 10 liter diesel engines are VERY different than my 1330 triple. I thought about blocking one of the radiator intakes with a large sponge when it's below freezing to see what happens.

    Thoughts?
    Last edited by RT Eddy; 12-19-2017 at 03:32 PM.

  2. #2
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    Assuming your Spyder has the correct oil viscosity and type for your temperatures and your engine is warming up normally you should be letting it idle for 30-45 seconds upon starting cold and then driving normally for the next several minutes. Do not work the Spyder hard until it reaches operating temperature. These are the same instructions you will find from virtually all internal combustion engine manufacturers. Bear in mind the transmission needs to warm up as well and will need a bit more time than the engine.

    The ideal test would be to place a thermometer in the radiator and look at the actual temps but lacking that you should begin to feel warm air through the radiator(s) shortly after starting. At those low temps it might not feel hot until after your spurt down the freeway. If the thermostat is operating correctly the temp gauge should remain in the same position once the trike is at operating temp no matter what the ambient air temp is. If it shows cooler then perhaps it needs replacement.

    I am assuming you store your Spyder overnight in a heated garage which will obviously help it warm up faster. If it is outside overnight allow more warm up time.

  3. #3
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    When it's that cold out: it probably wouldn't hurt to let the bike idle for a little bit...
    (Let it get some heat going, and then see if the cold air coming through the radiators, is enough to cool it back off.
    You could also try blocking off a portion of the radiator inlet on each side...
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  4. #4
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    Default Let it warm up a bit

    I would let your spyder warm up for a little while before you leave in the colder temps (for sure). I would say you won't cause engine problems running colder engine temps, hot temps = BAD.

    My 2012 RS-S in colder temps hardly ever goes up to 3 bars on the gauge, so your not alone.

    I think the gauge is actually reading the water (coolant) temp, but I might be wrong on that

    I let my spyder warm about 3 - 5 min. as I get my gear on, & get all situated. I find it horrible on engines in general to start them up, & drive right away. 1st I feel the oil needs to get to where it needs to be, & 2nd engine parts expand and contract from heat.

    Anyways I would not worry. Just my thoughts of coarse.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    When I am out and about riding in the cold (20 - 30 degrees), the same happens here. It can take up to a half hour before temps get anywhere near "normal." The suggestion to warm up for a couple minutes, and take it easy a bit longer are right on--IMO.

    It may take up to an hour to get to "normal" temperature (per the usual bars seen). My 's are kept in a 50 degree heated garage. They don't seem to like that cold aspirated air.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 12-19-2017 at 09:22 PM.

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  6. #6
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    I don't think you're hurting anything at all. BRP oil is very thin when cold and will circulate just fine. Letting a gasoline engine idle for long periods of time at start-up is not good for the engine. Even if the coolant warms up a bit the oil will still be stone cold.

    The Spyder's computer compensates for a cold engine with additional fuel. When you let it idle for extended periods at startup, you increase the chances that you will get oil dilution from the rich mixture.

    Letting the engine idle for 1 minute is more than plenty of time. Riding it cold allows the engine and engine oil to come to operating temperature much more quickly. It tends to burn off the rich fuel mixture keeping raw gasoline from washing the oil off the rings and cylinder walls and getting down into the oil as it does at idle.

    If I remember correctly. The thermostat begins to open at 195 and goes to fully open at 210 degrees Fahrenheit. This is the range which is considered 'operating temperature'. In cold weather you're going to be seeing coolant temperature being maintained at the lower end of this spectrum. In warm weather you're going to see coolant temperatures at or near the upper end of the spectrum.

    Not a big deal.

    But those who let their machine idle for long periods of time thinking it is helping are actually shooting themselves in the foot. You want to get your engine out of the 'Rich Mixture' cold operating phase as quickly as possible. The only way to do this is to ride it.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 12-19-2017 at 04:19 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT Eddy View Post
    So my question is, might I be causing harm to the engine by running my bike at highway speeds when the motor is so cold and only showing one digital bar on the gauge?
    NO. The gauge shows coolant temperature. The oil is always hotter.

    I would worry more about coming across some water on the roadway that has frozen, endangering both the Spyder and YOU.

  8. #8
    Active Member remark2013's Avatar
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    My commute to work is only 7 miles. It has been in the 20s and colder here when I leave, this morning and all week it's been 14-18. I start the bike, let it isle for about 3-5 minutes and ride to work. The temp gauge does not get to "Normal" range at all. Been riding like this the 3 years I have owned the bike. Have not had any problems what so ever. Ride like you have been and enjoy the peace of mind you are one of the few that "aint scared" of cool weather!

    Kent
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default All of the above....

    I don't have your kinda temps but when we do Ryde the hill in the winter my temp reading drops from the normal 5 bars to 3. I do run a different coolant mixture and the temps change quickly. Slow riding is always best to get the whole engine warmed up so I give her a minute then start rolling....
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  10. #10
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    I don't think you'll be damaging the engine, but you'll be getting crappy gas mileage.
    When the engine is cold, it needs an enriched mixture to run properly.
    In the old days, the choke would cut down the air flow to enrich the mixture.
    Modern fuel injected engines don't have a choke, so they throw more fuel into the mix to enrich it.
    So, if the engine is cold, you are putting more fuel down the injectors until the engine warms up.
    This adversely affects the gas mileage.
    But I don't think you're damaging anything. These machines are, after all, designed and built in Canada.
    The only thing colder than Canada is my ex wife's t*t.
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    I notice the 1330 engine warms up a lot slower than the 998. If you let it run while you gear up and adjust the tunes you should be fine.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeWheels View Post
    These machines are, after all, designed and built in Canada.
    The only thing colder than Canada is my ex wife's t*t.
    Thanks for the belly laugh. Too funny ...

  13. #13
    Member RT Eddy's Avatar
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    Thank you all for chiming in, I'll let her warm up for about a minute while I put my gear on and take it easy with cold acceleration until she is showing at least two bars.

    As I suspected...I need less worrying and more riding!

  14. #14
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT Eddy View Post
    Thank you all for chiming in, I'll let her warm up for about a minute while I put my gear on and take it easy with cold acceleration until she is showing at least two bars.

    As I suspected...I need less worrying and more riding!
    It's OK to worry about the important things...

    This just isn't one of them!

    In any case. Riding is ALWAYS the solution!
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  15. #15
    Very Active Member rcturner's Avatar
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    My 1330 is very slow to warm up. On a nice 50 degree fall or spring day, it will take much longer to get to temp than my 998 did. Probably close to 10 miles before the temp stabilizes.

  16. #16
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    Do like the truckers do put cardboard over the grills if you want it warmed up faster.

  17. #17
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    Default X wife

    My ex wife also did not warm up till we hit 2 or 3 bars.

  18. #18
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