Mounting brackets for driving lights higher up.

[UtahPete]

I've been looking to add more lighting both to be seen and to see. From everything I know about driving lights, the higher they are mounted, the greater effective distance a given lamp will throw the light. Many on here mount them on the A-arms or fenders, but for my purpose that is too low to the ground. So, I'm going to try mounting them up higher using existing strong attachment points and hopefully avoiding modification of the body panels in any way.

I decided on the Denali DR2 lights. Got them on sale at Twisted Throttle (they're 2015 models). Great build quality and heavier than I expected. I want to mount them higher than the A-arms and thinking about two locations (see pics). Has anyone used either of these locations and if so, what did you use for a bracket? My metal fabrication skills are practically nonexistent.

Denali 1.jpg Denali 2.jpg Denali 3.jpg

[SpyderAnn01]

I’m looking st your picture on my phone and I can’t tell exactly where you’re wanting to mount them but I’d warn you to pick a spot that won’t interfere with panel removal for oil changes.

[Chupaca]

I think you forgot to upload the pictures. You would need a solid mounting place and hard to find the higher you go. Most cars run them above the bumper or on a light bar.

[JayBros]

I see and understand where you are considering mounting. Is the height on your Spyder where you are thinking about mounting going to cause you any problems with oncoming motorists if the lights are bright enough to be assumed by the motorist to be high beam headlights? What does UT motor vehicle law say about placement of such lights?

[Mazo EMS2]

You could mount them directly to those lower deflectors......the ones that are down and behind the windshield. Just pop a couple holes in each one. Then if it doesn't work out there, those are easily replaced....Just not sure how solid those are mounted though

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You could mount them directly to those lower deflectors......the ones that are down and behind the windshield. Just pop a couple holes in each one. Then if it doesn't work out there, those are easily replaced....Just not sure how solid those are mounted though

​, but My first thought , since you didn't want to make any holes in the OEM pieces was to make a 24 Ga sheet metal that would go between the side mirror and the body ..... But imho attaching a bracket to the mirror " underside " would work better and the holes would not be noticed if you removed them ...the led's would have to lightweight tho ..... Mike

[UtahPete]

I see and understand where you are considering mounting. Is the height on your Spyder where you are thinking about mounting going to cause you any problems with oncoming motorists if the lights are bright enough to be assumed by the motorist to be high beam headlights? What does UT motor vehicle law say about placement of such lights?

Good question; I don't have the answer. But, judging from all the jacked-up pickup trucks around here with their super-bright driving and fog lights above where I'm going to be mounting them, I don't think that's an issue!

As far as oncoming drivers go, I will have the ability to turn these off or dim them when I'm in traffic. My big concern is night riding on secondary roads.

[stevencovert]

I was wondering the same, looking for a higher point. I have not got the lamps yet, but I am thinking of the clear plastic wind deflectors - or one of those bolts. Those deflectors are thick and solid. I was thinking maybe getting 6mm threaded rod and replacing one of the bolts with a standoff (from McMastercarr.com) and putting the lights on maybe a 1.5" to 2" standoff.

So the lamp would mount on one end with two nuts clamping the mounting bracket; then slide on the spacer, then screw it into the wind deflector hole. Once tight, loosen the two nuts to adjust the lamp and re-tighten.

Just my two cents!

I've been looking to add more lighting both to be seen and to see. From everything I know about driving lights, the higher they are mounted, the greater effective distance a given lamp will throw the light. Many on here mount them on the A-arms or fenders, but for my purpose that is too low to the ground. So, I'm going to try mounting them up higher using existing strong attachment points and hopefully avoiding modification of the body panels in any way.

I decided on the Denali DR2 lights. Got them on sale at Twisted Throttle (they're 2015 models). Great build quality and heavier than I expected. I want to mount them higher than the A-arms and thinking about two locations (see pics). Has anyone used either of these locations and if so, what did you use for a bracket? My metal fabrication skills are practically nonexistent.

Denali 1.jpg Denali 2.jpg Denali 3.jpg

[DGoebel]

UtahPete, sorry I haven't, been otherwise tasked and not even getting much riding in. But I started a new job in the aircraft manufacturing industry and we have quite the fab shop, so am planning on asking the "shopsmiths" if they'd do it. Though I think your solution on the Upper Air Deflectors (maybe with some black powdercoating) is pretty smart and simple.
Have you done some "With" and "Without" light pattern tests?
Are you using Denali's TriOptic™ Multi-Beam Lens System or just the Driving light lens?
Did you get their DataDim™ dimming controller or just using it on the high setting?
I am getting closer to doing this and if for some reason I just don't end up liking it, two new upper air deflectors are only $60 US for me.

[UtahPete]

UtahPete, sorry I haven't, been otherwise tasked and not even getting much riding in. But I started a new job in the aircraft manufacturing industry and we have quite the fab shop, so am planning on asking the "shopsmiths" if they'd do it. Though I think your solution on the Upper Air Deflectors (maybe with some black powdercoating) is pretty smart and simple.
Have you done some "With" and "Without" light pattern tests?
Are you using Denali's TriOptic™ Multi-Beam Lens System or just the Driving light lens?
Did you get their DataDim™ dimming controller or just using it on the high setting?
I am getting closer to doing this and if for some reason I just don't end up liking it, two new upper air deflectors are only $60 US for me.

I've not done any real tests at night but in a parking lot shining the lights on a building wall the difference is startling.
I did not go with their dimming controller; it's either on or off with the switch (but only works when the headlight circuit is powered because of a small solid state relay built into the harness)
Nothing fancy about the lens, just the straightforward driving light (which I got at a savings because they were phasing out that model)

[Bigmo]

I mounted my light directly on the clear wind deflector below the mirror. Solid, sturdy no problem at all. The light is wired with a small plug so I can remove panels without having to remove the light. The bike is at the shop for defective left cluster and will post a picture as soon as possible.

[Lew L]

HI Pete,

A piece of steel strip about 3.5" with 3 holes and 2 spacers about 3/4" dia an 1" long.

Remove the bolts that hold the wind deflectors below the mirrors and install the strip using the 2 outer holes and spacers.

Install the light mount bracket in the center hole, run electrical.

Rinse, Repeat.

Lew L

[Lew L]

Honestly Pete, I think that the pictured metal is thin and will allow the light to vibrate. I would think a minimum of 1/8" steel or 3/16" aluminum would be much better. I think Lowes has the spacers I mentioned, in plastic. They might also have 1" wide strip metal but there has got to be some scrap around.

I used to have an old pancake griddle ( 1/8" aluminum) that I used for many a project.

Lew L

[Mazo EMS2]

How about a piece of stainless between the headlight bezel, and the upper panel? Stainless is good and strong, and thin too. The proper bends and it might work to use the upper body panel mounting screw just under the mirror. It would be hard to drill and fab with, but it would be thin and strong to slip under body panels......

[UtahPete]

How about a piece of stainless between the headlight bezel, and the upper panel? Stainless is good and strong, and thin too. The proper bends and it might work to use the upper body panel mounting screw just under the mirror. It would be hard to drill and fab with, but it would be thin and strong to slip under body panels......

I've considered that. Aluminum is too thick for the strength I need and zinc-plated steel would need painting. Is there a source for stainless steel stock that you know of? Home Depot is where I've been shopping so far.

[UtahPete]

How about a piece of stainless between the headlight bezel, and the upper panel? Stainless is good and strong, and thin too. The proper bends and it might work to use the upper body panel mounting screw just under the mirror. It would be hard to drill and fab with, but it would be thin and strong to slip under body panels......

I'm really ignorant when it comes to metal fabrication. Is this thick enough do you think?

https://www.metals4uonline.com/stain...metal-304-10ga

Or, should I be looking at plate rather than sheet metal? That probably is not something I could bend with hand tools...

https://www.metals4uonline.com/stain...304-2b-3_16ths

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'm really ignorant when it comes to metal fabrication. Is this thick enough do you think?

https://www.metals4uonline.com/stain...metal-304-10ga

Or, should I be looking at plate rather than sheet metal? That probably is not something I could bend with hand tools...

https://www.metals4uonline.com/stain...304-2b-3_16ths

... OMG, #1....the cost is so over the top ... " ridiculous " doesn't even cover it ----- #2.... at that thickness the light you are mounting could weigh 25lbs. and the bracket wouldn't move ...... I have quite a bit of experience in using / building brackets for various purposes. The bracket only needs to be strong and/or stiff enough to carry the weight of the object. As an example , the stainless steel at .135" is actually twice as thick as the OEM frame that supports the front shocks ( I'm not guessing - I measured it ) which carry the entire weight of the front end of the Spyder .... As long as you aren't sticking the light out from the mounting point ( and you shouldn't if at all possible ) by quite a bit, 20 or 22 ga. galvanized sheet metal would be stronger than necessary .... Home Depot , Lowe's, and even Auto & regular hardware stores have small squares of sheet stock .... If you can't find something in that thickness .....glue two pieces together either after you have made bends or before the glue sets up ......good luck annnnnnnnnnnd Merry Christmas, ..... Mike

[Peter Aawen]

Like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2067/204225777

That flat strip is only 1/16th thick, & as such is likely to be too light to hold much in the way of weight, ie, single digit grams, not much more; especially not lights that you really don't want to be vibrating like buggery all the time!!

Look for 1/8th or thicker strap, if you are going that way; or work out how to triangulate it into a braced bracket!! There again, unless you mount it with those holes all perpendicular to the direction of airflow over them, they are probably going to whistle LOUDLY at one speed or another, & probably all on a slightly different note too! So going for solid & thicker strap is probably a smarter choice.

[pegasus1300]

Give Dallas Thacker in Oakley a call. Tell him Paul DeGrey sent you. Show him what you want and ask him if will make it and how much. If he wont ask him if he has any suitable metal he will sell you.

[pegasus1300]

Dallas is my neighbor and plows my drive. Great guy. I'm in Hurricane at this time, unfortunately, or I'd take that suggestion and run with it. How do you know Dallas?

His wife and my 1st wife were collage roommates at BYU. I have known them since the day they were married. Thais (1st wife) was Janet's Matron of Honor when they were married.

Small world.

[Lew L]

Hi Pete,

If you haven't solved the mounting problem I have a simple idea:

I'll try to explain-----

With two spacers extending from the two holes that hold the deflectors under the mirrors ------ a 3 and 1/2 inch pc of aluminum strip with 3 holes. One in the center to mount the lights and 2 more ( one near each end ) ------- mounted to the Spyder with longer bolts in the in original holes.


I'll be happy to make the spacers ( they are different lengths) AND the mounting plates. I would leave it to you to get the longer bolts and paint.

Let me know-----

BTW What kind of lights did you get? LED lights?

ANNND: Do the new scoops get in the way of the air deflectors ???

Lew L

[DGoebel]

UtahPete, I have been thinking and thinking about this same issue, though I do like the TricLED lights mounted to the inside of the RT's front fender so the driving lights shine where the wheels are pointing, I still would like some switched extreme downrange lights from a higher perspective, I think the upper deflectors (small deflectors directly behind the windshield, as I have a '13 RT with the scoops vs the lower deflectors) would allow a small triangular plate extending out to the sides of the bike that those lights could be mounted to would be excellent positioning, I'm thinking I might hang the light below the plate. Those small deflectors directly behind the windshield bolt holes seem solid enough, and I could route the new wiring behind/under the front dash valance.
Before someone asks, I'm planning several IBA Long Distance rides that will feature lot's of night driving on unfamiliar roads...

[Lew L]

My mounting idea will NOT work with the scoops. Might they fit inside the scoop after cutting a hole in the grill???

Lew L

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Lew, the lights are dual intensity driving lights from Twisted Throttle http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denal...8-mount-chrome

I've attached two new photos showing the area around the mirrors where I'm thinking I'd like to mount the lights. One possibility is the small deflectors directly behind the windshield. The other is below the mirror but as you can see the lower wind deflector has been co-opted by the air scoops.

it and the mirror bottom... Pete, looking at pic#2, I don't have the scoops so ---- How sturdy are they annnnnnnnnnd are they firmly mounted to the Spyder ??? .... If sturdy - why not attach a piece of flat stock to the top of the scoop between it and the mirror bottom ...... sticking out far enough so the lamp could be attached to that ????? ................. Any thing is possible if you at it long enough ....... Mike