2016 F3T SM6, Oil droplets on the bottom of the engine and frame, any ideas what might be the issue. Has anyone else seen this before. Pictures attached.
2016 F3T SM6, Oil droplets on the bottom of the engine and frame, any ideas what might be the issue. Has anyone else seen this before. Pictures attached.
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Solution was the filter kits for the 1330 did not have correct washer for the F3...engine. My tech replaced with a crush washer. Problem solved....and I dripped oil for about 18k miles before solution found. BRP at Homecoming even replaced the tube system the oil dipstick inserts into..didn't fix a thing. Crush washer saved the day...I'm at 35k and no more drips...
My Motto Is: Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh, crap, SHE'S awake!"
Red Stallion: 2016 F3t SE6 (from Pitbull PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
White Knight: 2014 RTS SE6 and matching 622 trailer (from Pitbull
PowerSports/ Springfield, MO)
Ms Spydee: 2010 RT SE5
Unless things have changed the plug is clutch cover drain plug, 6mm Allen. Is it loose?
What is oil level of engine at operating temperature? When was last oil change? Have you considered wiping down or spraying area with degreaser and then letting the engine run for a while to see if drops reappear? If answer to first question is "within safe range" on dipstick your risk is minimal. Just a thought.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
Seems to be drain plug related. When was the last oil change, who did it, is the drain plug tight and did they change the crush washer...?? Have you cleaned it up and checked to see if it is just residue from a messing oil change..??
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
BRP at Homecoming even replaced the tube system the oil dipstick inserts into..didn't fix a thing. Crush washer saved the day...I'm at 35k and no more drips...
My dip stick tube assembly was also replaced on my RT (solved my issue).
2016 F3T SM6, Oil droplets on the bottom of the engine and frame, any ideas what might be the issue. Has anyone else seen this before. Pictures attached.
I recently had the same exact thing.
Its not an oil leak.
Your oil level is too high and needs to be slightly lowered.
Check your filler/dipstick tube.
If there is oil on it you do not have a leak, lower your oil level.
Then go riding and enjoy it.
Solution was the filter kits for the 1330 did not have correct washer for the F3...engine. My tech replaced with a crush washer. Problem solved....and I dripped oil for about 18k miles before solution found. BRP at Homecoming even replaced the tube system the oil dipstick inserts into..didn't fix a thing. Crush washer saved the day...I'm at 35k and no more drips...
Just back from the initial break-in service, so one would wonder the dealer would have noticed it. They never get everything right in one trip. Can you give me more details, maybe pictures, links etc so that I can show that to the technician at the dealer. I have wiped it a couple of times after riding and oil does appear, so either its too full like some have suggested or something is not snug tight. I can't tell where it is flowing out from. Thankfully its not a lot as I don't see anything on the floor under the vehicle.
Just back from the initial break-in service, so one would wonder the dealer would have noticed it. They never get everything right in one trip. Can you give me more details, maybe pictures, links etc so that I can show that to the technician at the dealer. I have wiped it a couple of times after riding and oil does appear, so either its too full like some have suggested or something is not snug tight. I can't tell where it is flowing out from. Thankfully its not a lot as I don't see anything on the floor under the vehicle.
Its coming out of your oil dipstick tube.
Wipe your oil dipstick tube clean then go for a ride.
Re-check your oil dipstick tube.
If its wet again lower your oil level....a tad.
Then relax....it wasn't your bike, it was whomever overfilled the oil level.
Odd. I thot your handle was spyderdrips! Mine had a similar leak when I first got it. When it went in the shop they found a defective oil cooler. 10 days to ship 3 to fix it. But! When I began to ride it again, the oil had collected in the plastic cover pans and it still was getting on the muffler and stinking. Took it back with a demand they fix it and CLEAN it. No problems for 15k miles then it began to seep again. Turns out one of the engine plugs was not tight and needed permatex sealant put on it as well. Nothing since.
Since my maiden ride was with 3 Harley guys, I think I got a bit of that flow flu all Harleys suffer from.
The flat copper washer for the clutch cover plug, PN 420250640, is designed to be used once and replaced when changing oil. Although the washer looks like it can be reused because it is a simple flat washer, the first time the plug is tightened it compresses the washer enough to make a tight seal. On repeated use the washer cannot be compressed more; it won't make a tight seal. An ignorant or lazy technnicial will simply apply more torque to the plug thereby risking tearing out the threads on the clutch cover. A copper crush washer can be used in place of the OEM washer but if the next technician servicing the Spyder has never seen a crush washer (many haven't) he may reuse it causing another leak problem.
Rant: Some folks claim, particularly on the rubber o-rings on the engine oil plug, that they don't need to be replaced at every oil change. If one doesn't want to do so that's one's own business, but when one lays out a lot of shekels for a very sophisticated motorcycle with a fine engine and the manufacturer says to replace small parts like gaskets and o-rings during an oil change, why be cheap and risk problems down the road. Off the soap box.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S