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Very Active Member
BAD SHIMMY ON FRONT WHEEL
Lately I have developed a bad shimmy in the right front wheel when braking hard. I had Joe Meyer look at it when I was at the Red Rocks rally. Joe checked the A arms, bushings, and ball joints. He determined I had a bad upper ball joint. I had it replaced by my dealer and it helped some, but is still very noticeable when I brake hard. I’m thinking it might be a warped rotor. Any ideas?
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Keep checking!
You still need an alignment, but checking the rotor is simple:
remove wheel, two bolts holding the caliper. Remove caliper, then rotor slips off. Put on a glass surface. Try to slip a feeler guage in. If it is flat, we can eliminate that. If the guage slips under, your rotor is warped. Flip over, try other side. Most mirrors are flat enough; grab the bathroom mirror. Continue to eliminate possibilities until you find the defect.
Or, bring it back to me. I’ll square it away!! Joe
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
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Did you read through this thread? It's not uncommon. I get it sometimes when braking in a turn.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ration+braking
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
SHIMMY
Thanks for the responses. I have new Hankook tires on the front, so I don't believe it is the tires. It was doing it before when I had the Kendas. I have checked the A arms, bushings, and wheels by pulling and tugging. Also checked the steering by turning side to side. I will check the rotors with the feeler gauge or paper method. Thanks Joe, Mike, and Pete.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
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Very Active Member
SHIMMY
Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER
Thanks for the responses. I have new Hankook tires on the front, so I don't believe it is the tires. It was doing it before when I had the Kendas. I have checked the A arms, bushings, and wheels by pulling and tugging. Also checked the steering by turning side to side. I will check the rotors with the feeler gauge or paper method. Thanks Joe, Mike, and Pete.
OK thanks for this info .... If this wasn't occurring after you put the Hankook's on and had them balanced, then check to see if any weights have come off....this doesn't happen often , but could be an issue here ..... Mike
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Very Active Member
HAD
I had the exact same issue on the left.... checked, and found my brake pads on the left were down to the metal, and i only had about 7000 miles on it at the time.....
Dan P
SPYD3R
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Very Active Member
I don't know about Spyders but in the automobile industry some vehicles have been very susceptible warped rotors as the result of overtorqued lug nuts. Techs with air guns can be trouble.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Active Member
Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER
Lately I have developed a bad shimmy in the right front wheel when braking hard. I had Joe Meyer look at it when I was at the Red Rocks rally. Joe checked the A arms, bushings, and ball joints. He determined I had a bad upper ball joint. I had it replaced by my dealer and it helped some, but is still very noticeable when I brake hard. I’m thinking it might be a warped rotor. Any ideas?
I had the exact same thing going on with my Spyder.
It was warped rotaries.
Had them changed and new pads installed.
Made a world of difference.
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Very Active Member
Check for runnout with a dial indicator. Simple tool to make. Good for rotors, wheels & tires.
Originally Posted by JayBros
I don't know about Spyders but in the automobile industry some vehicles have been very susceptible warped rotors as the result of overtorqued lug nuts. Techs with air guns can be trouble.
Don't see how that would affect the rotor on cars. Lugs are not connected to the meat. It's more the fault of the crappy alloy they use for the rotors. Spouseling is hard on brakes, pads and rotors because of driving style. Needed to change them frequently on all cars she drove until I began to use these cross drilled and slotted rotors: >CLICK ME< Pricey but cheaper than replacing every 6 months. Get pads to match.
Last edited by Rattlebars; 12-02-2017 at 02:05 PM.
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Very Active Member
Wow......how simple and clever is THAT, Rattlebars
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
If it only does it when braking, you can bet it's a warped roter
Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER
Lately I have developed a bad shimmy in the right front wheel when braking hard. I had Joe Meyer look at it when I was at the Red Rocks rally. Joe checked the A arms, bushings, and ball joints. He determined I had a bad upper ball joint. I had it replaced by my dealer and it helped some, but is still very noticeable when I brake hard. I’m thinking it might be a warped rotor. Any ideas?
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Rotors
I had the same problem. Warped rotors. Baja Ron and EBC rotor and pads solved the problem and provided better braking.
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Very Active Member
UPDATE
Recently I replaced my front rotors with the rotors from BajaRon and also replaced brake pads all around. What a difference!! No shake or shimmy from the front wheels no matter how hard I brake. Problem solved!!!!
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
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Very Active Member
these comments are interesting
found these and after reading them a couple times, some of what is said supports almost all opinions
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/warped-rotors-myth/
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
anyway, just adding fuel to the fore
2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple
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Very Active Member
After reading the two articles I will accept the fact that my rotors were not warped. But replacing the rotors and pads did solve my problem. Probably a more expensive fix than it needed to be.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Fixed!
Done is good! I’m glad it is fixed, and look forward to seeing you again!
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER
After reading the two articles I will accept the fact that my rotors were not warped. But replacing the rotors and pads did solve my problem. Probably a more expensive fix than it needed to be.
the peace of mind after eliminating the problem has a great value.
wouldn't let it bother me,
2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple
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