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 Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations
Some guys swear by running it up in the air to adjust. I have never had any luck at that. If it is the video I am thinking off, it is several years old (british accent) and they have dropped the tension down several times since that was done. Since you don't have the lower tension kricket you will probably have to guess on the up in the air reading. If it was 160-170 in the air that will give you a 250+ on the ground, which is too tight. The only way I have done the adjustment is to make 1/8" turns then ryde around the block. Don't know if anyone has ever told you yet. but to check or adjust tracking always stop when going forward. The belt goes nuts on alignment when you back up and you cannot base anything on that. I'll get you a link for the up in the air kricket.
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91107-B...t+belt+tension
Here is a video page I have done a few things. Go to the bottom right hand side, then one up. This is just using the higher tension while on the ground, but you may gleem a couple of things from it.
https://www.roadsterrenovations.info/how-to-videos
I appreciate the help. Wish I had seen that page of videos earlier. I'll go through the video before I work on it again today or over the weekend.
Bob
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Active Member
Jacked it up again when I got home. Adjusted the axle after loosening it, had it running at about 2-3mm off the inside edge of the sprocket. Checked tension when it was on the ground, 210 so I thought that was good. Tightened up the axle, torqued it to 90 ft lbs again. Ran the bike about 3/4 of a mile around the neighborhood and stopped it without going into reverse. Belt still looked fine for alignment. Decided to take it out for a run on the highway. Got it up to 65 or so, eventually pulled off and checked the belt again after about 5 miles, belt was running up against the inside again. Drove home and still at that point. Parked it back in the garage. Will look at it tomorrow or the next day, didn't want to mess around when it had a hot muffler. Nothing is simple I guess...
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BELT WANDER
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It's maddening!! I know!! You have got it close. Just a little nudge should do it.
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Originally Posted by Eviltwin
Jacked it up again when I got home. Adjusted the axle after loosening it, had it running at about 2-3mm off the inside edge of the sprocket. Checked tension when it was on the ground, 210 so I thought that was good. Tightened up the axle, torqued it to 90 ft lbs again. Ran the bike about 3/4 of a mile around the neighborhood and stopped it without going into reverse. Belt still looked fine for alignment. Decided to take it out for a run on the highway. Got it up to 65 or so, eventually pulled off and checked the belt again after about 5 miles, belt was running up against the inside again. Drove home and still at that point. Parked it back in the garage. Will look at it tomorrow or the next day, didn't want to mess around when it had a hot muffler. Nothing is simple I guess...
Just so you don't feel alone and frustrated. You're not alone. I've done mine twice for rear tire replacement. It's all pretty easy until it comes to the adjustment. The last time I did it, it took me a few days with a little time in between for ME to cool down, not the muffler. You've heard of the definition of insanity, doing the same thing over and over again hoping for a different result. That was me. Then I decided to try some different approaches.
You have received some really good advice already. What seemed to work for me was once I had the tension where I wanted it, I stopped worrying about that to focus on the alignment adjustment, ie: the right side.
As described by idahomtnspyder (his is an RTs or Ltd), I cut a wedge. Someone else posted about using a wooden wedge on the general discussion section today also. I also did not loosen the axel nut all the way but rather just until it touched the cotter pin. Yes, at that point I was leaving the cotter pin in the axel rod. That is enough to let the adjuster bolts to do their thing.
I made very small adjustment by moving the adjuster bolt one flat of the six sided bolt at a time. Easy to remember how much you have moved it. It is extremely easy to go too far one way or the other for you final adjustment. After making the turn of the adjuster bolt, I tapped the blocks forward as I believe you are doing already. Then I wedged the wooden wedge between the swing arm and the tire side wall to prevent the thing from moving. I tightened the nut a bit but actually lowered the spyder so that the tire was on the ground and tapped the blocks again before I did my final torque. Eventually I got it to where I was happy with it. I also never ran the spyder but just made sure I did at least 10 forward rotations and 10 rearward rotations after everything was tight. You mentioned torqueing to 90 ft lbs. Mine is a 2014 RTs so it may be different from yours but I torqued to something like 160. You may want to verify the torque specs for your year.
Mine was frustrating because I would get it where I wanted it and ride it for 5 or 6 miles with no movement but after about another 5 - 10 miles it would move. I realized the thing was tight and where I wanted it but not really snugged up on the adjusters.
Keep the faith and let us know. The satisfaction of getting it done will be worth it.
Gary
 States visited by Bike
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Follow up: finally done
Just following up on this thread. Last week, I loosened the nuts on the rear axle and aligned the belt again. Adjusted it farther to the outside of the sprocket than the previous times keeping in mind that it tended to wander inward. Ran the bike with the tire off the ground and verified the tracking. Took it out several times and the belt is now about a mm off the inner flange, but staying consistently there. Happy with how it is tracking now. Can't say I notice that much difference between the old and new tires, but I'm probably a very conservative driver. Running about 26 in the rear and 18 in the fronts which are still the original Kendas.
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Originally Posted by Eviltwin
Just following up on this thread. Last week, I loosened the nuts on the rear axle and aligned the belt again. Adjusted it farther to the outside of the sprocket than the previous times keeping in mind that it tended to wander inward. Ran the bike with the tire off the ground and verified the tracking. Took it out several times and the belt is now about a mm off the inner flange, but staying consistently there. Happy with how it is tracking now. Can't say I notice that much difference between the old and new tires, but I'm probably a very conservative driver. Running about 26 in the rear and 18 in the fronts which are still the original Kendas.
Awesome!! Boy, what a learning curve! We try to explain how that is done, but unless you have went through it, you really can't relate.
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), but belt movement is just a fact that we have to re-concile............... Mike 
