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  1. #1
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Default Working on a rear tire change, need some quick help

    So I looked at finless's video as well as lamonsters and read a bunch of threads and thought I had a handle on it all. I tried to drop the lower bolt out of the shock, but it kept pushing down and twisting. I eventually managed to work it out, but reading some more realized that the air suspension is probably the culprit. Somewhere under the seat there is supposed to be a valve or cap to let the air out?

    I eventually got the wheel off after loosening the adjustment screws to give it some slack. The belt was very difficult to move off the pulley, even with the wheel hanging down. I managed to remove the hub and got the new tire mounted by a local shop. I've got the hub back on and torqued and am now trying to get the belt pulley back on the wheel, but am having issues with the rubber parts that fit inside. When the pulley came off, I didn't see or take note of whether the splines in the pulley fit in-between the slot in the rubber or they fit in-between the rubber and the metal of the wheel. I tried with the lithium grease as finless suggested, but it still isn't going anywhere. Would appreciate a push in the right direction with this one.

    The tire shop left the old weights on. Should I remove those? They were not able to balance the wheel, but folks here seem to feel like thats really not necessary. Overall, I would say this isn't the easiest machine I've ever worked on.
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  2. #2
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Well, I found the cap for the shrader valve and released pressure on the shock, once that happened, I was able to maneuver the bottom bracket and bolt it back in. Still need some help on the rubber pieces going back into the wheel. Somebody has to know the trick to getting them all back in, there has to be a trick to doing it Im just not figuring out.
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  3. #3
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Default I usually wipe out the spaces with a damp ray and then reinstall the sprocket

    When changing tires, the rubber cush spacers used to be a pain to to get the sprocket forced back down. Last several times, after wiping the pocket clean with a damp rag, I spray a little Armorall protectant on the rubber, make sure the rubber ORing is good and has a little film of grease, and then lay the tire on a carpet or rubber mat square, and sit on the sprocket to ease it down into place. Works for me...
    Last edited by AeroPilot; 11-18-2017 at 07:40 PM. Reason: sp (rag)
    07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Sorry Evil, I can’t help with the rubbers, but I did remove the weights from my rear tyre after my Kuhmo replacement and it feels pretty good. As long as the tyre shop has put the dot next to the valve, the balance is usually pretty good. At my next tyre change I will be putting Lamont’s balancer on, just for added peace of mind.

    Pete
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  5. #5
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeroPilot View Post
    When changing tires, the rubber cush spacers used to be a pain to to get the sprocket forced back down. Last several times, after wiping the pocket clean with a damp rag, I spray a little Armorall protectant on the rubber, make sure the rubber ORing is good and has a little film of grease, and then lay the tire on a carpet or rubber mat square, and sit on the sprocket to ease it down into place. Works for me...
    Do the rubber spacers go in with the slot facing up toward the sprocket? I think that is how I saw them when it came apart. Are you placing the rubber spacers inside the rim and than trying to seat the sprocket on top of them? Is that the basic method?
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  6. #6
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    When you get the rest sorted out don’t forget to clock the pulley so that the spokes on the pulley line up with the spokes on the wheel. If you skip this step checking your tire pressure will be a total pain in the rear

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  7. #7
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    Do the rubber spacers go in with the slot facing up toward the sprocket? I think that is how I saw them when it came apart. Are you placing the rubber spacers inside the rim and than trying to seat the sprocket on top of them? Is that the basic method?
    I can't remember which way I've done it! Sorry. But from the diagram in the manual it looks like there are grooves in the spacer and they go into the sprocket. I do remember once I had the sprocket sitting on the wheel I pushed down on it and rocked it until it seated all the way.

    2014 Copper RTS

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    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  8. #8
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    Thumbs up Good idea

    Quote Originally Posted by AeroPilot View Post
    When changing tires, the rubber cush spacers used to be a pain to to get the sprocket forced back down. Last several times, after wiping the pocket clean with a damp rag, I spray a little Armorall protectant on the rubber, make sure the rubber ORing is good and has a little film of grease, and then lay the tire on a carpet or rubber mat square, and sit on the sprocket to ease it down into place. Works for me...
    Thank you for a good idea. I am going to replace the rear tire this winter and every bit of help is appreciated.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Burped View Post
    Thank you for a good idea. I am going to replace the rear tire this winter and every bit of help is appreciated.
    What are you riding, Ben? If it’s an F3, I’ve got some detailed (read “anal”) instructions from when I changed my F3-L. They may help with any newer model Spyder with the wheel with the integrated hub.

    Pete
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    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Also, if I am reading this right, you backed off the adjusters. If you didn't count the turns, you are probably in for some real fun getting the belt adjusted correctly. You are going to need a kricket to get the tension correct. Tracking for the belt should be 1-3 mm of of the rear inner flange. I did the rubber spacers on the sprocket on my Daytona when I changed my tire and marked everything so it went back together the same way. It did have to be worked in, but not very bad. Let us know if you need details on the belt adjustment and we'll try to help.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    The slots on the rubber cush drive blocks go down on the wheel ribs. The sprocket fits into the gaps left between the blocks.

    You are in for a treat trying to re-align and tension the belt. Next time DO NOT TOUCH the adjusters. The belt will come off easily once you have the swing arm in the down position correctly. All belt tension is gone once you drop it.

    Good luck.

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  12. #12
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Default Figured it out!

    Slots go down over the splines in the hub, then the sprocket goes down in the gaps between the rubbers. Found a video that showed the sprocket coming off. Pix worth 1000 words.
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  13. #13
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    Lube the rubbers with 100% silicon (Do not use patrolium products on rubber).
    This will allow the sprocket to go right on.

    Bob
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
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  14. #14
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Using white lithium, that's what you mentioned in the video Bob.
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  15. #15
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    Using white lithium, that's what you mentioned in the video Bob.
    That works too! Doesn't eat rubber.

    Bob
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
    2011 RT-S SM5 , Baja Ron Black

  16. #16
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    So the wheel is back on the bike. I had it mounted up and it seemed to be tracking pretty well but I didn't have the bracket for the brake on correctly, so I had to back out the axle and reposition the bracket. Once the axle was back I went back to trying to pull it back into alignment, but the belt kept wandering way over to the left. After an hour of back and forth, I called it a day. I'll try again in a day or so. This has not all that easy of a job, probably wasted at least half the time correcting mistakes made along the way.
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  17. #17
    Very Active Member DGoebel's Avatar
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    Eviltwin, My to you in this time of struggle, been there done that. I followed all those suggestions and video's out there when I did my rear tire change, including not moving the adjusters, taping the caps, etc, etc. Still ended up with issues that took longer than I wanted to get figured out.
    STILL, glad I did it and learned what I did, the next rear tire change will be a breeze!
    Safe Rides,
    David and Sharon Goebel
    Both Retired USAF Veterans
    2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
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  18. #18
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    So the wheel is back on the bike. I had it mounted up and it seemed to be tracking pretty well but I didn't have the bracket for the brake on correctly, so I had to back out the axle and reposition the bracket. Once the axle was back I went back to trying to pull it back into alignment, but the belt kept wandering way over to the left. After an hour of back and forth, I called it a day. I'll try again in a day or so. This has not all that easy of a job, probably wasted at least half the time correcting mistakes made along the way.
    While you're just sitting and stewing about how hard it is to get the D*** tire aligned read this thread. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ight=rear+tire. In post #14 you'll see what I finally had to do to get the axle to stay in place while I tightened the nut so the belt would track properly. I didn't have this problem with my 2013 RT but I sure came close to losing my Christianity over my 2014!

    2014 Copper RTS

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    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  19. #19
    Active Member Richardv's Avatar
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    Default ... and...... what is your weight...!!!!! 😀

    Quote Originally Posted by AeroPilot View Post
    When changing tires, the rubber cush spacers used to be a pain to to get the sprocket forced back down. Last several times, after wiping the pocket clean with a damp rag, I spray a little Armorall protectant on the rubber, make sure the rubber ORing is good and has a little film of grease, and then lay the tire on a carpet or rubber mat square, and sit on the sprocket to ease it down into place. Works for me...

    .... sorry.... but I had to ask.....!!!!



    Richard

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    P.S. 3 Kumho AST 225/50R15 and 1 Toyo Proxies 4 225/50R15 rear tires
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  20. #20
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Wheel is aligned! It took about another hour and a half of going back and forth but I finally have it done. One of the things I took note of this time is the outline of the plastic cap on the swing arm vs. where the center of the axle was. On the sprocket side, you could tell that the axle was well back of where it had been previously. To correct that, I loosened both sides by several turns and then used a wooden drift with a hammer to tap the axle forward on that side till it met resistance and then rinse and repeat till I had it roughly centered. I then tweaked the sprocket side adjuster by about a quarter turn to put some tension on the belt and then put a like amount on the other side as well.

    I had ordered the Kriket belt tension gauge and it came in today. I checked the tension and it was too tight, about 200. So I backed each adjuster off a quarter turn on each side and used the drift again to move the axle forward. Finally I got the belt tension to about 160 or about a 90 degree turn in the middle with some resistance. Tightened the axle and torqued it to about 90 ft lbs. Took it for a short ride and checked it again, belt had shifted slightly to the middle. I'll put it on the jack again tomorrow and tweak it a bit more, but I think its pretty much done.

    Lessons learned: Stop when you are tired or things dont seem to be going right. A day or two in-between did a lot to refocus and see the problems from a different perspective. Second: Nothing is easy the first time. Were I to do this job over, I could probably do it in a couple of hours instead of a couple of days. But you just dont know, what you dont know and as much as you can watch videos and read online, many times it comes to trial and error.
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  21. #21
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    Took it for a short ride and checked it again, belt had shifted slightly to the middle. I'll put it on the jack again tomorrow and tweak it a bit more, but I think its pretty much done.
    If it's somewhat in the middle of the sprocket, or a bit closer to the flange than the outside, I wouldn't fuss with it any more. I'm inclined to view the BRP spec of 1 - 3 mm as more guideline than strict requirement. Mostly they want to make clear, "Keep the belt away from the flange and all of it on the sprocket!" As long as the belt is between the outside edge and the flange you're OK.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  22. #22
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    Wheel is aligned! It took about another hour and a half of going back and forth but I finally have it done. One of the things I took note of this time is the outline of the plastic cap on the swing arm vs. where the center of the axle was. On the sprocket side, you could tell that the axle was well back of where it had been previously. To correct that, I loosened both sides by several turns and then used a wooden drift with a hammer to tap the axle forward on that side till it met resistance and then rinse and repeat till I had it roughly centered. I then tweaked the sprocket side adjuster by about a quarter turn to put some tension on the belt and then put a like amount on the other side as well.

    I had ordered the Kriket belt tension gauge and it came in today. I checked the tension and it was too tight, about 200. So I backed each adjuster off a quarter turn on each side and used the drift again to move the axle forward. Finally I got the belt tension to about 160 or about a 90 degree turn in the middle with some resistance. Tightened the axle and torqued it to about 90 ft lbs. Took it for a short ride and checked it again, belt had shifted slightly to the middle. I'll put it on the jack again tomorrow and tweak it a bit more, but I think its pretty much done.

    Lessons learned: Stop when you are tired or things dont seem to be going right. A day or two in-between did a lot to refocus and see the problems from a different perspective. Second: Nothing is easy the first time. Were I to do this job over, I could probably do it in a couple of hours instead of a couple of days. But you just dont know, what you dont know and as much as you can watch videos and read online, many times it comes to trial and error.
    Good job. I also tap the right side as you did to seat it also. Those of us that do our own work have that first time adjusting the belt alignment and tension. It is certainly a learning curve. One thing you didn't say was whether the tension you got was off the ground or wheel on the ground. We set the tension at about 90 off the ground. That usually gives me 180 on the ground. Actually I use two different krickets; the black/white - lower tension and the green/silver one - higher tension. Sounds like where it is at if on the ground is pretty close!!
    I also view the BRP guideline of 1-3mm as a suggestion also. Our RT is about 5mm of the flange for the last year and has done fine.

  23. #23
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
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    Tension was off the ground. I was following a video of one guy that did the alignment with the engine running jacked up. He set his to about 160-170 with it up in the air. If that is not the correct setting, let me know. The belt was running about 1-2 mm off the inside edge, but after I took it around the block it looked like it had moved in to touching the inner side. So I'll probably jack it up again tomorrow and tweak the settings a bit to move it back out. I do need to get my hands on a service manual. I don't plan on taking this back to the dealer unless I have no other choice, I like to do my own work if possible.
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  24. #24
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    Tension was off the ground. I was following a video of one guy that did the alignment with the engine running jacked up. He set his to about 160-170 with it up in the air. If that is not the correct setting, let me know. The belt was running about 1-2 mm off the inside edge, but after I took it around the block it looked like it had moved in to touching the inner side. So I'll probably jack it up again tomorrow and tweak the settings a bit to move it back out. I do need to get my hands on a service manual. I don't plan on taking this back to the dealer unless I have no other choice, I like to do my own work if possible.
    Some guys swear by running it up in the air to adjust. I have never had any luck at that. If it is the video I am thinking off, it is several years old (british accent) and they have dropped the tension down several times since that was done. Since you don't have the lower tension kricket you will probably have to guess on the up in the air reading. If it was 160-170 in the air that will give you a 250+ on the ground, which is too tight. The only way I have done the adjustment is to make 1/8" turns then ryde around the block. Don't know if anyone has ever told you yet. but to check or adjust tracking always stop when going forward. The belt goes nuts on alignment when you back up and you cannot base anything on that. I'll get you a link for the up in the air kricket.
    https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91107-B...t+belt+tension

    Here is a video page I have done a few things. Go to the bottom right hand side, then one up. This is just using the higher tension while on the ground, but you may gleem a couple of things from it.
    https://www.roadsterrenovations.info/how-to-videos

  25. #25
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    Manual also recommends checking the tension with the rear wheel spoke in line with the swing arm and off the ground. But I use a tension meter.
    1/16 turns on the adjusters at a time is all that's needed to do fine tuning.

    Then tightened and recheck tracking forward direction.

    There is also a check for both pulleys but most just go by the rear gap.

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