Changed my oil for the first time. Pretty easy ....

[Dmetcalf]

I just wanted to post this for the other first time owners wondering if they should go ahead and change their own oil or pay the big bucks for your local shop do it. I have been changing my own oil on all of my past motorcycles and vehicles for many years. I YouTubed how to do it a couple times and decided it was time since I had just over 3000 miles on it. The trickiest things are removing the mirror (after you do this once) the next time(s) will be much less stressful. I also bought replacement oil drain plugs from goldplug.com so I now 5 M have a 15m & 17m boot to use from now on instead of. 6m hex and a 45m torx. ( personal preference). Next thing a bit tricky was to get it up a bit and level so it’s easier to get under. I ran it up on my car ramps then used a floor jack under the rear shock to get the rear tire up and place some wood blocks under the rear tire.
Anyway, it was easy enough and if I can do it ( I just turned 60 this past Aug.), you can do it and save yourself some $$.
Took me about an hour but a lot of that time was allowing it to drain well.

[youngers]

it is all gone ! them Russians ! { o kay not really ... I did my first oil change , } here is the skeletal frame - took the plastic off the night before , took a good look over the whole inner sections , see if any thing was a miss { messed up } .. now I had been looking at the you tubers , on oil change , and every one put the cycle on blocks rise it up , get it up ! I did mine right on the ground , no block , jacks nodda --- but I do have a slight valley in my rock drive way that the oil pan can sit in and the bike has enough clearance for the oil change -------> I have the cycle with the clutch --- S M 5 model one filter ... was pretty easy guys and gals , it did take a little long , too get the plugs out , off the bottom , like they were impacted on my cycle { I think they were a little over torque } here are the photos I do have a question for you oil change folksters , is this a factory oil filter ? or just a cheepie ... the one I changed out ! the one I put in has a wire screen in the body so it will not collapse ... { hey while I have you guys here --- how many throttle body vacuum lines are there ? 1 or 2 } and if it is any help --- 1 gallon ,plus one quart or oil ! will watch for leaks ...

[youngers]

I do go a bit futher on taken skins off , but if you are going a little bit might as well do a super job of it

[DGoebel]

Amen to that brother. It's just those first time jitters that stop so many from doing it ourselves.
I get multiple filter kits at a time from BajaRon and my oil from Amazon. And my local County recycling takes the old filters, oil, and oil bottles for free.
If I took it to my closest dealers, I gotta leave it overnight and get rides to and from the dealer. I can now do the change faster than the trip in the car.

[Chupaca]

It's quite easy if you take your time, prep and dive in. After the first one you will find it much easier and faster (if your in a hurry). I always have the next kit ready so the miles don't sneak up on me..

[gerald37]

I just wanted to post this for the other first time owners wondering if they should go ahead and change their own oil or pay the big bucks for your local shop do it. I have been changing my own oil on all of my past motorcycles and vehicles for many years. I YouTubed how to do it a couple times and decided it was time since I had just over 3000 miles on it. The trickiest things are removing the mirror (after you do this once) the next time(s) will be much less stressful. I also bought replacement oil drain plugs from goldplug.com so I now 5 M have a 15m & 17m boot to use from now on instead of. 6m hex and a 45m torx. ( personal preference). Next thing a bit tricky was to get it up a bit and level so it’s easier to get under. I ran it up on my car ramps then used a floor jack under the rear shock to get the rear tire up and place some wood blocks under the rear tire.
Anyway, it was easy enough and if I can do it ( I just turned 60 this past Aug.), you can do it and save yourself some $$.
Took me about an hour but a lot of that time was allowing it to drain well.

I did the same as you did. I purchase a set of cheap plastic ramps from Harbor Freight and ran the front wheels up and used a jack under the frame and lifted the rear level with front using blocks. On the first oil change the mirrors where trickiest things. I had no problem but I did purchase the magic mirrors that really made it simple to remove them. I just thought as long as I am going to be doing my own service I just as well put them on. It took me about an hour but I spend extra time cleaning things. I just turn 80 so I got you 20 years.

[Dmetcalf]

I did the same as you did. I purchase a set of cheap plastic ramps from Harbor Freight and ran the front wheels up and used a jack under the frame and lifted the rear level with front using blocks. On the first oil change the mirrors where trickiest things. I had no problem but I did purchase the magic mirrors that really made it simple to remove them. I just thought as long as I am going to be doing my own service I just as well put them on. It took me about an hour but I spend extra time cleaning things. I just turn 80 so I got you 20 years.

After you try it once you realize what a rip off it is to pay the dealer big bucks to do the same..!

[robhowen]

Good for you! We've had our Spyders a bit over two years now and I'm getting quite comfortable adding accessories and working on them. When I'm stuck I walk away, look for youtube videos, look at the manual, and get back to it.

Have fun!

Rob

Anyway, it was easy enough and if I can do it ( I just turned 60 this past Aug.), you can do it and save yourself some $$.
Took me about an hour but a lot of that time was allowing it to drain well.

[Buckeye Chuck 54]

That's the way I do it also. I even have the Gold plugs. I'm handicapped and have a hard time getting
back to my feet after laying under my '14 RT. After getting the bike high enough I'll open both drains
then get back up. Then I take the right side tupperware off and change the filter. This takes 20 minutes
or so and by the time that is done, my oil has drained. Put both plugs back in then add oil. While the
bike is still up I can now start it and let it run for 10 minutes. I check for any leaks while the tupperware
is still off. If all is OK it's easier for me to put the bike back together while it's still jacked up.
One more thing, when the bike is up I'll leave it in neutral, that way I can spin the wheel to check
the belt and Doc's tensioner.
Works for me.
Chuck

I just wanted to post this for the other first time owners wondering if they should go ahead and change their own oil or pay the big bucks for your local shop do it. I have been changing my own oil on all of my past motorcycles and vehicles for many years. I YouTubed how to do it a couple times and decided it was time since I had just over 3000 miles on it. The trickiest things are removing the mirror (after you do this once) the next time(s) will be much less stressful. I also bought replacement oil drain plugs from goldplug.com so I now 5 M have a 15m & 17m boot to use from now on instead of. 6m hex and a 45m torx. ( personal preference). Next thing a bit tricky was to get it up a bit and level so it’s easier to get under. I ran it up on my car ramps then used a floor jack under the rear shock to get the rear tire up and place some wood blocks under the rear tire.
Anyway, it was easy enough and if I can do it ( I just turned 60 this past Aug.), you can do it and save yourself some $$.
Took me about an hour but a lot of that time was allowing it to drain well.

[BajaRon]

it is all gone ! them Russians ! { o kay not really ... I did my first oil change , } here is the skeletal frame - took the plastic off the night before , took a good look over the whole inner sections , see if any thing was a miss { messed up } .. now I had been looking at the you tubers , on oil change , and every one put the cycle on blocks rise it up , get it up ! I did mine right on the ground , no block , jacks nodda --- but I do have a slight valley in my rock drive way that the oil pan can sit in and the bike has enough clearance for the oil change -------> I have the cycle with the clutch --- S M 5 model one filter ... was pretty easy guys and gals , it did take a little long , too get the plugs out , off the bottom , like they were impacted on my cycle { I think they were a little over torque } here are the photos I do have a question for you oil change folksters , is this a factory oil filter ? or just a cheepie ... the one I changed out ! the one I put in has a wire screen in the body so it will not collapse ... { hey while I have you guys here --- how many throttle body vacuum lines are there ? 1 or 2 } and if it is any help --- 1 gallon ,plus one quart or oil ! will watch for leaks ...

"I think they were a little over torque"

Pretty common and unnecessary. The drain plugs need only to be snug. They will actually tighten up some with the heat and cooling cycles of opperation.

"...is this a factory oil filter ? or just a cheepie ... the one I changed out ! the one I put in has a wire screen in the body so it will not collapse"

This is not the OEM filter. It is most likely a HiFlo filter (which is what I carry and use). You can tell for sure by looking at the part # on the end cap.

The original BRP oil filters were so poorly made that they were collapsing and disintegrating. The original filters had neither an interior or exterior support structure. BRP had to replace a number of motors on warranty because of this. They redesigned the filters and the current pieces are of very high quality. But they went a bit overkill with the external wire mesh. Aftermarket filters, such as the one you removed, have been used by Spyder owners right from the beginning with zero issues. Also, oil quality testing has shown that both the OEM and the aftermarket filters do the same, excellent job of keeping the oil clean.

Though the HiFlo filters are less expensive. They work just as well as the BRP, OEM filters. I also carry these in the K&N brand if you want a synthetic filter medium.

[youngers]

thanks for the extra information on the oil change thread !

[JayBros]

For my money, Shawn Smoak's video on the 1330 RT oil change at this link, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb...ature=youtu.be, is a very good explanation about how to do it. I too use car ramps to get some more working room under the Spyder.

[nerfbatt]

For my money, Shawn Smoak's video on the 1330 RT oil change at this link, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb...ature=youtu.be, is a very good explanation about how to do it. I too use car ramps to get some more working room under the Spyder.

Love Shawn Smoak's vids, mate.

He is one of the few VLOG'ers I can actually handle listening to, for large amounts of time.

[Fire34]

Thanks everyone for the info, I am a newbie here just got a 2013 RT limited this past summer (June) did not know anything about it. I have done my own oil changes on my cars in the past, but am new to motorcycles.
How hard is it to take the panels off? So afraid of breaking them I can see what you mean about the dealer oil changes.
When adding oil after it is drained does it take the whole amount at once?
I have the ramps and floor jack, would i be able to use the hitch receiver as a jack point? Where does everyone get their oil and filters at ? Do not want to void any warranty that may be left by getting the wrong stuff. Thanks guys
Dave

[pegasus1300]

Thanks everyone for the info, I am a newbie here just got a 2013 RT limited this past summer (June) did not know anything about it. I have done my own oil changes on my cars in the past, but am new to motorcycles.
How hard is it to take the panels off? So afraid of breaking them I can see what you mean about the dealer oil changes.
When adding oil after it is drained does it take the whole amount at once?
I have the ramps and floor jack, would i be able to use the hitch receiver as a jack point? Where does everyone get their oil and filters at ? Do not want to void any warranty that may be left by getting the wrong stuff. Thanks guys
Dave

You have a different engine then the above do.You have the 998 v twin. And if you have an SE5 you will have 2 filters to change. You will be taking your plastic off from the Left side. Oil drain plugs are similar. I also changed mine out but I bought the $6.95 ones from Value Accessories a sponsor on the site. Bob White (finless) has video on youtube for doing the 998 oil change. Do not put the whole amount in no matter what engine you are doing. I put in 3 quarts then start it up and let the filters fill and then wait for the oil light to go out. Look for leaks. Once it goes out I shut down then put in the rest of the oil checking the dipstick often. The Hitch will work. I lift it by the shock mount then put a third ramp under the wheel and remove the jack. I buy my filters from BajaRon also a sponsor here. I buy several at a time. Our motors have shorter oil change interval then the 2014 and newer do. He also has Amzoil oil also. Lamonster also sells oil for the Spyder and is the originator of this forum. I get my oil off the internet and use either Valvoline 10w 40 4T full synthetic or Shell Rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic.
Hope that helps. Dive in and "git er dun".

[SpyderF3]

I also changed mine for the first time 2 weeks ago, pretty easy with a pit.

[youngers]

I also changed mine for the first time 2 weeks ago, pretty easy with a pit.

hey buddy somebody for got to finish your garage , there is a big ditch right in the middle ! { o .k. I know what it is , but do you have a tough time remembering there is the " ally pit " when walking around the garage ? }

[aHermit]

I recently completed my first oil change on my used 2014 rt-s after viewing the excellent youtube video and a detailed post on this website. Here's a recap and lessons learned. I live an hour away from from dealers in each of three larger cities. I happened to be in one of those cities and dropped by to pick up the 1330 oil change kit to have on hand when the end of riding season came. They were out of the kits, but they provided what I would need. Of course the guy didn't mention that he was selling me only a few of the parts from the kit at a much higher price than the kit. I wasn't sure at that time what the cost of the kit was, nor the contents. I was charged $106.xx, but only received the oil, two o-rings, and one washer. When it came time to do the oil change (i.e., a somewhat warm, late fall day in the midwest), I had to delay the oil change while the parts department ordered the additional washer and o-rings. That added a several day delay to the oil change, required another one hour trip each way to pick up the parts, and another $17.xx added to the cost.

So, another somewhat pleasant day arrived and I begin the oil change process. I drained the oil from the engine side and attempt to change the filter. Ooops, they sold me the wrong filter. Before making the trip back to the dealer, I called and provided the year and model of the Spyder and the part number to be sure they had the correct part in stock. I was assured they had seven on the shelf. When I arrived at the parts counter, I provided the old filter and the one I had purchased from them to ensure I received the correct part. The parts guy looked at the box, then the computer screen, and told me he didn't know which part I needed because the part number on the box was the correct number according to the computer. My impression was that he was giving up and just wanted to me to go away. I explained that I called ahead and I was told they had seven of the correct filters on the shelf. When he returned from the parts shelves he produced a box that he assured me had the correct filter. When he opened the box, it was the same style filter they previously sold me. He then called the mechanic to determine what to do next. Eventually, I received the correct filter and was told that the dealership had mis-marked the boxes with their own stickers. Oh, I was also told they were sorry. So was I.

I returned home to find a large puddle of oil on the drive. While I had drained the engine side until it no longer dripped, I had put the plug back in finger tight and dropped it from the jack stands for safety while I was not home. I had been in a hurry to drive the 60+ miles to the dealer before they closed and just assumed all the oil had drained. Apparently, more oil drained down when the Spyder was no longer on the lift. After cleaning up the mess, I changed the filter and began to drain the gearbox side of oil. According to the video and web posting, the plug required a torques socket, which I purchased and which fit into the plug. At this point, I was working by feel since I hadn't raised the Spyder as I had done earlier. I inserted the tip deep into the plug, bracing the head of the ratchet with one hand while pulling firmly, yet cautiously with the other. I was purposely trying to avoid damaging the ratchet from a sudden release under considerable force, and avoiding stripping the splines from the plug head. Eventually, the wrench began to move slowly, then grew easier to turn. To my surprise, the T-40 tip was spinning in the plug. I viewed the plug with a mirror and it appeared the splines had been stripped, but it now appeared to resemble a hex head. I was able to locate a hex key to remove the plug, with considerable effort. I didn't trust it for re-use so I decided to replace it.

I called another dealer (an hour away), since they were open and the other dealer was closed, to see if they had the plug in stock. They did not, but could have it for me in a couple of days. Being curious about my earlier purchase from the other dealer, I asked how much they charged for the 1330 oil change kit. If I recall correctly, I believe they said was about $80.00. I asked if it contained all the parts that I needed, since I had to order an additional washer and o-rings. That parts guy wasn't sure what was in the kit, but said it would be all the parts that were needed and that some of the parts could be re-used (yeah, right). I finally picked up the replacement plug, which required a hex tip, not a torques-tip. I suspect whomever performed a previous oil change had replaced the original T-40 plug with a hex plug. After yet another delay, another trip, and more money, the oil change was finally complete.

Lessons learned: (1) buy the kit since it is complete and costs significantly less than parts purchased individually; (2) don't assume the parts department is going to sell you the individual parts at the same price they would charge for the kit; (3) always take original parts to the parts counter for verification; (4) don't expect parts guys or part numbers to be correct (trust but verify); (5) there may be more oil in the engine that needs to drain when the trike's position changes; (6) when replacing parts on a used vehicle, they may not be the original equipment part; (7) if at all possible, visually examine what your are doing rather than relying on feel; and (8) try as best you can to get it all covered on the first visit, especially if you have to travel a considerable distance to a dealer.

I probably missed some lessons, but I hope my experience makes yours a little easier and that other will post similar lessons learned.

[nhoj]

Good points all. But where ever you saw it was a T40 is wrong... its a T45 and a 6mm on the other plug.

[pegasus1300]

As the experience with aHermit shows,the parts guys don't always know what they are talking about,especially if they haven't done any mechanical work before becoming a parts guy. One thing I have always done in working on my on motorcycles is to find a quality aftermarket supplier who knows his stuff and may even ride the same thing you do. We are fortunate to have Lamonster and BajaRon here who will supply filters and oil of a higher quality and a lower price then most dealers can. If you live a far distance from your dealer (I live 2 hours from mine) check out these suppliers. There are also other suppliers out there who supply other maintenance items of equal or greater quality and lower price even with shipping then the dealer does. Taking the old part with you if you go to the dealer or parts house is always a good idea as is taking the part number with you. If the part is mail order call them the first time you order and verify what you are reading is what you will get. Gas mileage on your chase vehicle and your time are valuable so a little extra time spent verifying and asking questions earns dividends. You'll still make mistakes,but then the guys in the service department do to,but for them the correction is across the shop.Oh and buy the shop manual. Even with the good youtube videos there are things there you wont see elsewhere that will save you some time and pain.

Happy DIYing. Getting to know your motorcycle/Spyder is very satisfying.

[RinconRyder]

Sure would have been nice if BRP would have installed a remote oil filter on the Spyder. There is absolutely no need to have to disassemble half the trike for a simple oil change.

More and more I am thinking the design goals were "how complex can we make simple tasks", or, being a Navy veteran "gundecking for dollars".

[mike1952]

if you change your oil.will it void the warranty.$350 bucks for oil change is nuts

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

if you change your oil.will it void the warranty.$350 bucks for oil change is nuts

Not if you keep good records to prove you did it properly with the proper parts and oil.

[Raprider]

if you change your oil.will it void the warranty.$350 bucks for oil change is nuts

Local dealer lists "basic oil change" prices (Change Engine Oil & Filter Only-Uses BRP Oil Change Kit) as 153 or 163 for the 998 (SM5 vs SE5) and either 150 or 170 for the 1330 (F3 vs RT)..."full" services at 4600 or 9300 miles only seem to be about another 20-40 bucks respectively.
Seems reasonable if the kit is about $100...