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  1. #1
    Very Active Member youngers's Avatar
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    Default i walked out and this ---

    IMG_20171110_135435.jpgIMG_20171110_135448.jpg it is all gone ! them Russians ! { o kay not really ... I did my first oil change , } here is the skeletal frame - took the plastic off the night before , took a good look over the whole inner sections , see if any thing was a miss { messed up } .. now I had been looking at the you tubers , on oil change , and every one put the cycle on blocks rise it up , get it up ! I did mine right on the ground , no block , jacks nodda --- but I do have a slight valley in my rock drive way that the oil pan can sit in and the bike has enough clearance for the oil change -------> I have the cycle with the clutch --- S M 5 model one filter ... was pretty easy guys and gals , it did take a little long , too get the plugs out , off the bottom , like they were impacted on my cycle { I think they were a little over torque } here are the photos IMG_20171110_145505.jpg IMG_20171110_145447.jpg I do have a question for you oil change folksters , is this a factory oil filter ? or just a cheepie ... IMG_20171110_145549.jpg the one I changed out ! the one I put in has a wire screen in the body so it will not collapse ... { hey while I have you guys here --- how many throttle body vacuum lines are there ? 1 or 2 } and if it is any help --- 1 gallon ,plus one quart or oil ! will watch for leaks ...

  2. #2
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Default

    Boy, nice and clean under all that plastic! How many miles do you have on that critter?
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member youngers's Avatar
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    Default mmmm

    if I remember right around 9500 miles , couple months ago was our first long distance fun run , ( we trailered the cycle down , but we did ride in the rain .. I did do a long ride with our Kentucky group couple weeks ago . I guess from the original owner to the clutch repair I did , the skins were off a couple times , and I washed it up a bit , not drench it but knock the dust off her !

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Got me....

    Saw the pictures and thought wow...that's a first...They did later change to the wire framed filters so it may be one of the older ones. i do mine on the floor and i have lifts and all....go figure just feels better...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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  5. #5
    Active Member wetmountainman's Avatar
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    Dang, man, you don't need to strip it bare to change the oil!!! LOL
    2013 RT Ltd. SE5

  6. #6
    Very Active Member youngers's Avatar
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    Default hahahaha

    Quote Originally Posted by wetmountainman View Post
    Dang, man, you don't need to strip it bare to change the oil!!! LOL
    i thought it might be right handed ... yeah I know do not have too take all the skins off , but the cycle is running a bit rough in the lower r-p-m`s either bad gas , which might not be too far out of the question , bought from a country store , so also looking at the throttle body vacuum lines for cracks , and checking the wiring and other problems that might be hidden inside the skins area !

  7. #7
    Active Member JIM W's Avatar
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    Default

    There is two vacuum lines change them they like to crack that'll cause the rough running
    Last edited by JIM W; 11-11-2017 at 06:56 AM.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by youngers View Post
    i thought it might be right handed ... yeah I know do not have too take all the skins off , but the cycle is running a bit rough in the lower r-p-m`s either bad gas , which might not be too far out of the question , bought from a country store , so also looking at the throttle body vacuum lines for cracks , and checking the wiring and other problems that might be hidden inside the skins area !

    Good for you. Now I know what they look like with their "jammies" off.


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  9. #9
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Default Vacuum Lines

    Two lines each side of MAP sensor. 3mm ID. Make them both 85mm long. Line length is important to operation of the sensor. At the next oil change, you might want to consider replacing the oil drain plugs with magnetic plugs such as the Dimple or Gold plug. The engine plug magnet is bigger than the OEM one. They use a standard wrench head and not that hex bit that's too easy to strip. And they use their own aluminum washer instead of copper. Reusable. Much easier to remove the plug.
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    Doug

    2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic

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  10. #10
    Very Active Member youngers's Avatar
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    Default a little more work

    finished the oil change , took the vacuum lines off the throttle body , ( one end of the lines were really easy too remove , other end at the throttle body were very tight , hard to take off ) IMG_20171111_135824.jpgIMG_20171111_135739.jpg < ---- the hose themselves look like new no cracks , but the ends we see in the photos , these were the ones that were very easy too take off the sensor area , one looks a bit egg shaped ( possible that air had been leaking in or loss of vacuum here ) so changed both of these , seems a bit smoother, but still a sound of miss fire , so I started the siphoning of the gas , took out about half of what was in the tank , will do more today ... ( leaning more to bad gas , wondering if the fellow who drives the big tanker truck put int the 89 mid range , corn blend in the 93 higher octane tanks ? any thing is a possibility ) BUT while some one mentioned I do not have to take the skins off too do oil change ------- I did find this --- a broken head light adjustment cable , attaches too the back of the head light , and too the headlight adjustment just inside the can-am cover plate , the easy one to remove not real worried about it will search for another one IMG_20171111_133301.jpg tucked it back under the incoming air box , until I get a new one ( wonder how long this had been broken ? )

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Default A little more maintenance

    Well, there's under 10K miles on the machine after many riding seasons - that's low - and you're not the original owner. If you're only hearing a bit of a misfire at idle, some common preventative items could help.

    - Some folks may think it's all snake oil, but there's plenty of proof that a couple of tanks of fuel injector cleaner helps with that. Seafoam or Techron work well. Some use an ethanol additive at each fill-up when having to use E10. I use Lucasoil.

    - OEM plug wires are crap. BajaRon can fix you up with plugs and wires.

    - Fuel filter replacement - cut it open and you'll be surprised. Air filter, too.

    Just the standard stuff like that. Very low cost and time. Just a bit of freshening up. Looks like you're giving that machine a good home. So most of all, ride it.
    Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 11-12-2017 at 10:33 PM.


    Doug

    2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic

    ”Freedom is not a loophole”

    F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238

  12. #12
    Very Active Member youngers's Avatar
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    Default thanks for the replys !

    been a few days , o.k. 2 weeks I guess ! I filled the gas tank with better fresh gas 93 octane , ran her back home , and 2 days ago ran a few errands around the local areas here , smoother idle , no back fire , idle is around I think the 12oo range nice and smooth as should be ! some times the higher octane , from the back woods stores isn`t always the best ! ( if it is a country store , not close to a freeway , use the most widely used gas , until you can purchase the better stuff )

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