rust on front pulley

[AbNormy]

Trying to figure out how to post pics of my front pulley wondering what causes it on a 12 RT. Is pulley working it's way loose?IMG_20171110_135151.jpgIMG_20171110_135146.jpgrust

[papanorm]

There is a thread going on right now about front sprocket failures on F3 models. You can scroll down the current topics and find 256 posts. It appears yours needs replacing as well.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

There is a thread going on right now about front sprocket failures on F3 models. You can scroll down the current topics and find 256 posts. It appears yours needs replacing as well.

..... why should He re-place His pulley ....... IMHO He should check the Torque on the nut , but RE-PLACE IT ... I wouldn't based on some rust ..............Mike

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Clearly, that should say Red Dust. Anyway....

Looks a little unusual for a 2012 RT, but based on the findings in that F3 thread...

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ket-Inspection

...the red dust has become an acceptable tell-tale indication that there's some movement. Read through that thread.

It's not just the sprocket rusting on the surface, but it seems to be a fine dust from movement between the splines, the sprocket and that washer and bolt. I guess if I saw that, I would pull the bolt and have a look see. Remember, the bolt is a one time use thing, so order a replacement. It comes with a thread locker - Scotch Grip - already installed. So, it's a one use deal.

As a matter of routine maintenance, it's good practice to put a torque wrench on that bolt and check tightness at every oil change. 92 ft/lbs for the 5 speed gearbox. The 6 speeds might even be the same value, I'm not sure on that one. The good news is that the hub inside the sprocket is designed to be a softer metal than the gearbox output shaft. So, your shaft should be OK if this has been caught early.

[PapaHotel]

Several RT owners have lost their front sprocket also, ME included. they are $104 ea., which is much cheaper than the tow I paid for and the challenges of being broken down on a Sunday 100 miles from home........

[Roadster Renovations]

Mike evidently has not been following the F3 thread about this. The dealer will replace at the sign of red rust. You probably are out of warranty, so I would go through Cheap Cycle Parts for a new bolt and sprocket instead of screwing around with it.
Procedure to replace is as follows:
1. Support the rear of the byke in front of the converter.
2. Remove Air Ryde swing arm bolt (if equipped - left side front of swing arm) You may have to remove the belt guards to get to it.
3. Let as much of the air out of the airbag. This will allow for more travel without damage.
4. Remove the rear bottom shock bolt. Jacking up at this point a little will help the bolt to slide out. Once the bolt is out, raise the byke until the wheel is just off of the ground.
5. Stabilize the bike as you will be removing the sprocket and you don't want it rocky.
6. Remove the belt from the rear and then the front of the sprocket.
7. Remove the sprocket bolt. You may have to hold backup with a chain wrench. If it is stuck you may need to apply a little heat to break the loctite, hopefully not.
8. Pull the sprocket and thoroughly clean the shaft spline, then inspect for damage.
At this point there are four basic schools of thought:
A. Leave it bare install and torque with a new bolt. X's go to the byke and stamped numbers out.
B. Cover the bolt hole with tape and apply a light coat of molly lubricant on the splines of the pulley. Install pulley, remove excess moly, install new bolt and torque.
C. Cover the bolt hole and apply a coat of Loctite 660 to the flanges of the pulley (probably best choice if shaft spline damage). Install pulley, remove excess and install and torque the new bolt.
D. Cover the bolt hole and apply a thin coat of RTV on the pulley splines. Then, where the pulley will seat on the shaft, apply a larger bead around so that when the pulley is on it will seal the inner portion of the spline from moisture and the subsequent corrosion. The last step is to apply another bead around the outer area when the two splines seam is. Put the new bolt in and torque to specs.
Installation is the reverse of removal.

Since the above concepts with the exception of A are all experimental, no one can really say what is going to be the go to method. I, myself like the RTV as it will be a moisture barrier as well as a cushion from spline damaging conditions.

I saw one grenade in Maggie Valley and it stripped every spline off of the pulley. Guy was just sitting at a light and went to take off and ZING!, no movement. For myself, I would not ryde it without replacing if it's showing the red rust. As I said, the dealer is replacing them just on that reason alone. It is more economical for them to be pro active on this since there is always a chance the failure might cause shaft damage. Which requires engine/trans removal to replace the shaft. $$$$$ plus being stranded.

Hope you get it straightened out.