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Active Member
RT starter button help
After my bike sits for a short period, like a few days or a week, I have to "wiggle" the starter button to get the bike to crank over.
After the initial start for that day, I don't seem to have as much of a problem.
Is there a way to lubricate, or repair the stater button without replacing the entire Kill switch assembly?
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Very Active Member
You might try spraying it with some contact cleaner but that's the limit of my knowledge on your problem.
Last edited by JayBros; 11-04-2017 at 09:33 AM.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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A "flush" with isopropyl alcohol might be a bit safer, followed by some power-off exercise and some compressed air.
If that turns out to be a temporary solution, an manual dis-assembly and manual cleaning might be necessary.
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Very Active Member
There is no magic spray here. Sounds like the bubble switch has cracked and is leaking. So it will only get worse. To confirm you can take it apart and see. It is not designed to be fixed. The whole right hand switch assembly needs to be replaced. Sorry not maybe what you want to hear.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
Bummer....
alternative to the $300.00US switch is to isolate the starter button wires and install a remote starter button...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by billybovine
There is no magic spray here. Sounds like the bubble switch has cracked and is leaking. So it will only get worse. To confirm you can take it apart and see. It is not designed to be fixed. The whole right hand switch assembly needs to be replaced. Sorry not maybe what you want to hear.
Looking at the wiring diagram for my 2014 RTS and which is basically the same for all earlier RTs, the start switch is in the ground circuit from relay R2 in the left fuse box. As billy says it may be a bubble switch on a printed circuit board which means no spray cleaning is possible. But then again it might be a contact type of switch that you can clean. Your best bet is to take it apart and see if you can fix it. You could connect an external switch in parallel to it but you'll have to find the correct wires in the harness. The start button and kill switch have a common ground wire in the harness. The start button has its own wire coming into it from the relay that operates the starter solenoid.
But first make sure the start circuit relay in the fuse box is not the source of the problem.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Maybe look at Ebay and get one cheaper? That's if there is one posted?
I always thought about having a spare on hand but am waiting for now.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
Looking at the wiring diagram for my 2014 RTS and which is basically the same for all earlier RTs, the start switch is in the ground circuit from relay R2 in the left fuse box. As billy says it may be a bubble switch on a printed circuit board which means no spray cleaning is possible. But then again it might be a contact type of switch that you can clean. Your best bet is to take it apart and see if you can fix it. You could connect an external switch in parallel to it but you'll have to find the correct wires in the harness. The start button and kill switch have a common ground wire in the harness. The start button has its own wire coming into it from the relay that operates the starter solenoid.
But first make sure the start circuit relay in the fuse box is not the source of the problem.
The actual switch will be a molded silicone rubber balloon. With 2 contacts inside and a ribbon cable or wires coming out of it. Completely airtight and submersible watertight. The button will squeeze the balloon to make the contacts connect. If it cracked nothing you can do to fix.
Good point about the relay. It would be a more likely culprit then the switch. I would swap it out for new one. They are cheap enough.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Active Member
Relay hmmmm
I think I'll try the relay first... I sure do appreciate everyone's help
It's a 21 now....,BUT I like being on top
TricLed afterburnerz gen2
BajaRon sway bar
F4 customs SRT 28" Clear Wide
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Active Member
Me too....
Originally Posted by 11rtLTD
After my bike sits for a short period, like a few days or a week, I have to "wiggle" the starter button to get the bike to crank over.
After the initial start for that day, I don't seem to have as much of a problem.
Is there a way to lubricate, or repair the stater button without replacing the entire Kill switch assembly?
...Mine also has been acting like that for the last 2 years. Never got worse. Since it is a SM5, And that I am lasy, I never replaced it. I do have the original right handle module, that was removed when I upgraded to the cruse control on my ST base model.
Thanks for the tip on the relay, it certainly make sense, and is easy to do before opening up the module.....
Richard
* 2012 RS SE5 (hers)
* 2013 ST SM5 (mine)
Daughter RSS SE5 2014
Son in law RSS SM5 2013
P.S. 3 Kumho AST 225/50R15 and 1 Toyo Proxies 4 225/50R15 rear tires
2 sets of Kumho 175/55R15 front tires
1 set of Hankook V4
1 set of Canadian Tire General tire Evertrek RTX in 14" for the 2012 ...
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Richardv
...Mine also has been acting like that for the last 2 years. Never got worse. Since it is a SM5, And that I am lasy, I never replaced it. I do have the original right handle module, that was removed when I upgraded to the cruse control on my ST base model.
Thanks for the tip on the relay, it certainly make sense, and is easy to do before opening up the module.....
In your case I think the modules are the same except the CC one has the switch button included. You could fairly easily change components from one to the other to fix the starter button problem, if the relay is not the problem.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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