RT starter button help

[11rtLTD]

After my bike sits for a short period, like a few days or a week, I have to "wiggle" the starter button to get the bike to crank over.
After the initial start for that day, I don't seem to have as much of a problem.
Is there a way to lubricate, or repair the stater button without replacing the entire Kill switch assembly?

[JayBros]

You might try spraying it with some contact cleaner but that's the limit of my knowledge on your problem.

[Easy Rider]

A "flush" with isopropyl alcohol might be a bit safer, followed by some power-off exercise and some compressed air.

If that turns out to be a temporary solution, an manual dis-assembly and manual cleaning might be necessary.

[billybovine]

There is no magic spray here. Sounds like the bubble switch has cracked and is leaking. So it will only get worse. To confirm you can take it apart and see. It is not designed to be fixed. The whole right hand switch assembly needs to be replaced. Sorry not maybe what you want to hear.

[Chupaca]

alternative to the $300.00US switch is to isolate the starter button wires and install a remote starter button...

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

There is no magic spray here. Sounds like the bubble switch has cracked and is leaking. So it will only get worse. To confirm you can take it apart and see. It is not designed to be fixed. The whole right hand switch assembly needs to be replaced. Sorry not maybe what you want to hear.

Looking at the wiring diagram for my 2014 RTS and which is basically the same for all earlier RTs, the start switch is in the ground circuit from relay R2 in the left fuse box. As billy says it may be a bubble switch on a printed circuit board which means no spray cleaning is possible. But then again it might be a contact type of switch that you can clean. Your best bet is to take it apart and see if you can fix it. You could connect an external switch in parallel to it but you'll have to find the correct wires in the harness. The start button and kill switch have a common ground wire in the harness. The start button has its own wire coming into it from the relay that operates the starter solenoid.

But first make sure the start circuit relay in the fuse box is not the source of the problem.

[trikermutha]

Maybe look at Ebay and get one cheaper? That's if there is one posted?

I always thought about having a spare on hand but am waiting for now.

[billybovine]

Looking at the wiring diagram for my 2014 RTS and which is basically the same for all earlier RTs, the start switch is in the ground circuit from relay R2 in the left fuse box. As billy says it may be a bubble switch on a printed circuit board which means no spray cleaning is possible. But then again it might be a contact type of switch that you can clean. Your best bet is to take it apart and see if you can fix it. You could connect an external switch in parallel to it but you'll have to find the correct wires in the harness. The start button and kill switch have a common ground wire in the harness. The start button has its own wire coming into it from the relay that operates the starter solenoid.

But first make sure the start circuit relay in the fuse box is not the source of the problem.

The actual switch will be a molded silicone rubber balloon. With 2 contacts inside and a ribbon cable or wires coming out of it. Completely airtight and submersible watertight. The button will squeeze the balloon to make the contacts connect. If it cracked nothing you can do to fix.

Good point about the relay. It would be a more likely culprit then the switch. I would swap it out for new one. They are cheap enough.

[11rtLTD]

I think I'll try the relay first... I sure do appreciate everyone's help

[Richardv]

After my bike sits for a short period, like a few days or a week, I have to "wiggle" the starter button to get the bike to crank over.
After the initial start for that day, I don't seem to have as much of a problem.
Is there a way to lubricate, or repair the stater button without replacing the entire Kill switch assembly?

...Mine also has been acting like that for the last 2 years. Never got worse. Since it is a SM5, And that I am lasy, I never replaced it. I do have the original right handle module, that was removed when I upgraded to the cruse control on my ST base model.

Thanks for the tip on the relay, it certainly make sense, and is easy to do before opening up the module.....

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

...Mine also has been acting like that for the last 2 years. Never got worse. Since it is a SM5, And that I am lasy, I never replaced it. I do have the original right handle module, that was removed when I upgraded to the cruse control on my ST base model.

Thanks for the tip on the relay, it certainly make sense, and is easy to do before opening up the module.....

In your case I think the modules are the same except the CC one has the switch button included. You could fairly easily change components from one to the other to fix the starter button problem, if the relay is not the problem.