New guy looking at an RT with very low miles

[Eviltwin]

Howdy. I don't yet have a Spyder, but am actively looking. I had a motorcycle endorsement from 30 years ago and recently started riding again after taking the MSC with my wife. My current ride is a Honda Silverwing, which I really like, but above 60 on the highway, It gets a bit tense. I'm no spring chicken, and I like the idea of a bike that I can't drop. Most of my riding is local, around 30-40 miles on the weekends. If I go with a Spyder, I hope to take some longer trips as well as hopefully ride my wife on the back.

I want an upright position, somewhere between touring and cruiser. The Silverwing has some large floorboards and it's nice being able to move your feet from one spot to another. So far I've rode 3 and sat on new models at the dealer. I'm just not up for paying the price on a new machine, so used is the only way I'll go. The first one was an 2012 RS_S, then a 2015 F3S and last a 2010 RT. Only the F3 was a manual shift. I didn't care for the RS-S, the sitting position was all wrong and shifting of the gears was rough, though that may have been partly me as I didn't know what to expect with it.

A guy near my house is selling the F3S and I liked the way I sat on it, as well as the way it rode, but his price is a bit high for me and it doesn't have much storage space. Lastly I rode the RT and while the seating position wasn't quite what the F3 was, it wasn't bad at all and I thought it drove pretty well. I kept the revs up over 4K and the shifting seemed much smoother, though I don't think I really figured out the smoothest downshift technique yet.

This particular RT (2010) has about 1400 miles on it and has been garage kept it's whole life. Bike looks like new and the only thing I found wrong with it was that the rear tire was down to the wear bars right in the center. I mentioned that to the owner and it took him by surprise. I like this bike well enough that I'm hoping to take my wife to see it tomorrow. Price is very good, considering the condition and mileage. And there is another RT (2011) about 150 miles north with about 3K on the clock for the same asking price, and it's in my favorite color, Blue.

I'm open to any thoughts and collective wisdom of the group. Anything in particular I should look out for? How hard is routine maintenance like oil changes and flushing brakes? I tend to do my own maintenance if at all possible and would probably tackle the rear tire to save a few bucks. FYI, the Silverwing needed a new rear tire as well to pass inspection and I took the wheels off and on that bike after watching a couple of Youtube videos.

Bob

[trikermutha]

Check the WTB area. Think there is at least one in there for sale

[DGoebel]

Eviltwin, get a test ride (with your passenger if possible) if you can. I test rode 4 different models before buying my RTL. My wife only sat on 2 of the others, but didn't like the seating position. When she got on the back of the RTL she said that's it, that's what she was looking for. I felt comfortable with the seating position, and that dealer just let me drive it off the lot to test ride, I think we did 30 miles, and when we got back, SOLD! Make sure you're comfortable then start looking at different years, features, prices... Does either of the ones you're looking at have any extended warranty? doubtful, but possible.
MY RTL's back tire was bald across the middle to the edge sipes at 11K. Put a car tire on and have already exceeded that mileage and doesn't even look worn.

[ndspyderlover]

Howdy. I don't yet have a Spyder, but am actively looking. I had a motorcycle endorsement from 30 years ago and recently started riding again after taking the MSC with my wife. My current ride is a Honda Silverwing, which I really like, but above 60 on the highway, It gets a bit tense. I'm no spring chicken, and I like the idea of a bike that I can't drop. Most of my riding is local, around 30-40 miles on the weekends. If I go with a Spyder, I hope to take some longer trips as well as hopefully ride my wife on the back.

I want an upright position, somewhere between touring and cruiser. The Silverwing has some large floorboards and it's nice being able to move your feet from one spot to another. So far I've rode 3 and sat on new models at the dealer. I'm just not up for paying the price on a new machine, so used is the only way I'll go. The first one was an 2012 RS_S, then a 2015 F3S and last a 2010 RT. Only the F3 was a manual shift. I didn't care for the RS-S, the sitting position was all wrong and shifting of the gears was rough, though that may have been partly me as I didn't know what to expect with it.

A guy near my house is selling the F3S and I liked the way I sat on it, as well as the way it rode, but his price is a bit high for me and it doesn't have much storage space. Lastly I rode the RT and while the seating position wasn't quite what the F3 was, it wasn't bad at all and I thought it drove pretty well. I kept the revs up over 4K and the shifting seemed much smoother, though I don't think I really figured out the smoothest downshift technique yet.

This particular RT (2010) has about 1400 miles on it and has been garage kept it's whole life. Bike looks like new and the only thing I found wrong with it was that the rear tire was down to the wear bars right in the center. I mentioned that to the owner and it took him by surprise. I like this bike well enough that I'm hoping to take my wife to see it tomorrow. Price is very good, considering the condition and mileage. And there is another RT (2011) about 150 miles north with about 3K on the clock for the same asking price, and it's in my favorite color, Blue.

I'm open to any thoughts and collective wisdom of the group. Anything in particular I should look out for? How hard is routine maintenance like oil changes and flushing brakes? I tend to do my own maintenance if at all possible and would probably tackle the rear tire to save a few bucks. FYI, the Silverwing needed a new rear tire as well to pass inspection and I took the wheels off and on that bike after watching a couple of Youtube videos.

Bob

Try to find a 2014, or newer RT . The 1330 engine is well worth it.

[Grandpot]

Welcome to the community. That's a great Handle. Exactly who's evil twin are you?

[robhowen]

I too suggest you get the 1330 engine model if you can afford it given the heat and maintenance issues with the 2 cylinder engine prior to the 1330. I think it has to be 2014 or later to have the 1330 3 cylinder "Ace" Rotax engine. Otherwise, I'm sure you'll get what works for you.

Rob

[Saluda]

Ditto on the test rides and the 1330. Good luck. RT rear tire over inflated ?? (1400 or 14 K miles ?)

[ARtraveler]

The 2010 RT with 1400 miles sounds like a good deal if the price is right. I put 36,500 on mine before trading to a 2014 1330.

Those tires are more than three years old, so I would recommend replacing that "old" rubber. As mentioned above, over inflation will wear out the center because the tire tends to balloon out when they get heated up.

Have a dealer run the VIN and get a service history. There were hot start issues, so check to see if they updated the computer for you.

The 2011 also sounds like a consideration for you. Blue is nice.

Let us know what you end up with. I also tried F3 and did not like the ergos.

[davehirst]

I would question why with only 1400 miles the rear tire is bad. I had 160000 on mine which I just changed. I'd be alittle suspicious of that mileage. Also go with the 1330 engine.

[RinconRyder]

This particular RT (2010) has about 1400 miles on it and has been garage kept it's whole life. Bike looks like new and the only thing I found wrong with it was that the rear tire was down to the wear bars right in the center.

Unless that mileage number is a typo there should be NO reason a Spyder with 1,400 miles has a worn out rear tire (or any tire). Something doesn't sound right to me.

[Eviltwin]

Unless that mileage number is a typo there should be NO reason a Spyder with 1,400 miles has a worn out rear tire (or any tire). Something doesn't sound right to me.

Appreciate the responses. This particular bike was bought for the wife and she rode it sparingly. They have owned it for about 5 years and from what I understand, it hasn't gone out much in the last year or two. My guess is that it was ran way over-inflated or somebody did a burn out or two on it. Fronts look fine. Since the bike is 7 years old, I would consider replacing all the tires. No checking on the sidewalls, its been stored inside all its life.

IMG_20171025_163421194_HDR.jpg

[Eviltwin]

I too suggest you get the 1330 engine model if you can afford it given the heat and maintenance issues with the 2 cylinder engine prior to the 1330. I think it has to be 2014 or later to have the 1330 3 cylinder "Ace" Rotax engine. Otherwise, I'm sure you'll get what works for you.

Rob

So just what are the heat and maintenance issues? So far I haven't run across them and I did read the stickys and look through the maintenance forum.

I would love a newer machine except for the price. Both of these RT's that I'm seeing are asking 13K. I'm looking to pay cash, and quite frankly for me, 13g's is quite a bit of money for what is essentially a big boy toy. From what I can tell, folks have gotten good service and mileage out the 2 cyl engine. If anything scares me a bit, its the semi automatic transmission. Not sure if I should stick with a manual, if for nothing more than the simplicity.

[Eviltwin]

Welcome to the community. That's a great Handle. Exactly who's evil twin are you?

I have a twin brother who lives up in NJ. I've used that name for years. At one point, he called himself the "GoodTwin"...

[RT Eddy]

+3 on getting a 1330 triple motor.

You say that you are no spring chicken. I suspect that your bike will be ridden at a leisurely pace, maybe two up sometimes. Trust everyone that tells you will enjoy the triple 1330cc motor much more!

I did at least 15-20 test rides over the last couple of years, on ALL of the Spyder models before buying my RT. The triple is more smooth, quieter, more fuel efficient, less "busy", it has a true overdrive, and it has much more torque than the twin cylinder Spyders and it requires ZERO expensive valve adjustments in it's lifetime!

I am only 90 minutes west of you in Chester, come try mine and you will be sold. If you are patient, there are always great deals to be had!

[Easy Rider]

Try to find a 2014, or newer RT . The 1330 engine is well worth it.

There are some other improvements too.

VERY low mileage older machines tend to need a bit of TLC at first and the Spyder maybe a bit more than most.
For instance, at 6-7 years old ALL the tires probably should be replaced no matter how good they look.

How do you wear out a rear tire at only 1400 miles ?? Something about that doesn't sound right.

If the price is right this could be a good buy; it could be a continuing headache too.
Is it manual or electronic shift ??

[geeman]

Howdy. I don't yet have a Spyder, but am actively looking. I had a motorcycle endorsement from 30 years ago and recently started riding again after taking the MSC with my wife. My current ride is a Honda Silverwing, which I really like, but above 60 on the highway, It gets a bit tense. I'm no spring chicken, and I like the idea of a bike that I can't drop. Most of my riding is local, around 30-40 miles on the weekends. If I go with a Spyder, I hope to take some longer trips as well as hopefully ride my wife on the back.

I want an upright position, somewhere between touring and cruiser. The Silverwing has some large floorboards and it's nice being able to move your feet from one spot to another. So far I've rode 3 and sat on new models at the dealer. I'm just not up for paying the price on a new machine, so used is the only way I'll go. The first one was an 2012 RS_S, then a 2015 F3S and last a 2010 RT. Only the F3 was a manual shift. I didn't care for the RS-S, the sitting position was all wrong and shifting of the gears was rough, though that may have been partly me as I didn't know what to expect with it.

A guy near my house is selling the F3S and I liked the way I sat on it, as well as the way it rode, but his price is a bit high for me and it doesn't have much storage space. Lastly I rode the RT and while the seating position wasn't quite what the F3 was, it wasn't bad at all and I thought it drove pretty well. I kept the revs up over 4K and the shifting seemed much smoother, though I don't think I really figured out the smoothest downshift technique yet.

This particular RT (2010) has about 1400 miles on it and has been garage kept it's whole life. Bike looks like new and the only thing I found wrong with it was that the rear tire was down to the wear bars right in the center. I mentioned that to the owner and it took him by surprise. I like this bike well enough that I'm hoping to take my wife to see it tomorrow. Price is very good, considering the condition and mileage. And there is another RT (2011) about 150 miles north with about 3K on the clock for the same asking price, and it's in my favorite color, Blue.

I'm open to any thoughts and collective wisdom of the group. Anything in particular I should look out for? How hard is routine maintenance like oil changes and flushing brakes? I tend to do my own maintenance if at all possible and would probably tackle the rear tire to save a few bucks. FYI, the Silverwing needed a new rear tire as well to pass inspection and I took the wheels off and on that bike after watching a couple of Youtube videos.

Bob

selling my 2014 rts spyder 9700 miles active can am extended warranty many xtras heated seat also front and rear grips heated spy alarm system as well george 860 389 4997 phone must sell more xtras can be scene on craigslist eastern connecticut price reflects tough sell this time of year

[Eviltwin]

There are some other improvements too.

VERY low mileage older machines tend to need a bit of TLC at first and the Spyder maybe a bit more than most.
For instance, at 6-7 years old ALL the tires probably should be replaced no matter how good they look.

How do you wear out a rear tire at only 1400 miles ?? Something about that doesn't sound right.

If the price is right this could be a good buy; it could be a continuing headache too.
Is it manual or electronic shift ??

The one closest is the semi auto. The one that is about 150 miles away is a manual, haven't seen that one.

So what would be a good price on a 2 cyl RT-S? The asking price is 13K. Nada price is about 13.8 without any adjustment for the low miles.

My guess is that the tire was run over inflated.

[geeman]

[QUOTE=Eviltwin;1312572]Howdy. I don't yet have a Spyder, but am actively looking. I had a motorcycle endorsement from 30 years ago and recently started riding again after taking the MSC with my wife. My current ride is a Honda Silverwing, which I really like, but above 60 on the highway, It gets a bit tense. I'm no spring chicken, and I like the idea of a bike that I can't drop. Most of my riding is local, around 30-40 miles on the weekends. If I go with a Spyder, I hope to take some longer trips as well as hopefully ride my wife on the back.

I want an upright position, somewhere between touring and cruiser. The Silverwing has some large floorboards and it's nice being able to move your feet from one spot to another. So far I've rode 3 and sat on new models at the dealer. I'm just not up for paying the price on a new machine, so used is the only way I'll go. The first one was an 2012 RS_S, then a 2015 F3S and last a 2010 RT. Only the F3 was a manual shift. I didn't care for the RS-S, the sitting position was all wrong and shifting of the gears was rough, though that may have been partly me as I didn't know what to expect with it.

A guy near my house is selling the F3S and I liked the way I sat on it, as well as the way it rode, but his price is a bit high for me and it doesn't have much storage space. Lastly I rode the RT and while the seating position wasn't quite what the F3 was, it wasn't bad at all and I thought it drove pretty well. I kept the revs up over 4K and the shifting seemed much smoother, though I don't think I really figured out the smoothest downshift technique yet.

This particular RT (2010) has about 1400 miles on it and has been garage kept it's whole life. Bike looks like new and the only thing I found wrong with it was that the rear tire was down to the wear bars right in the center. I mentioned that to the owner and it took him by surprise. I like this bike well enough that I'm hoping to take my wife to see it tomorrow. Price is very good, considering the condition and mileage. And there is another RT (2011) about 150 miles north with about 3K on the clock for the same asking price, and it's in my favorite color, Blue.

I'm open to any thoughts and collective wisdom of the group. Anything in particular I should look out for? How hard is routine maintenance like oil changes and flushing brakes? I tend to do my own maintenance if at all possible and would probably tackle the rear tire to save a few bucks. FYI, the Silverwing needed a new rear tire as well to pass inspection and I took the wheels off and on that bike after watching a couple of Youtube videos.

Bob[/QUOTE selling spyder rts 1330 cc 9700 miles new back tire many xtras heated seat xtended can am warranty more george 860 389 4997 have all records body in mint condition $15.000.00

[DGoebel]

EvilTwin, at the time I bought my '13 RTL, it was easily $4-$5k cheaper than any of the 1330 RTL's available in my area. I figured it will take me many years of my driving to pay that much extra in fuel and maintenance costs that the more expensive 1330's were going for.
I've put 12,000 miles in 12 months with winter storage time even and I'm glad I'm driving it instead of thinking about it....

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The one closest is the semi auto. The one that is about 150 miles away is a manual, haven't seen that one.

So what would be a good price on a 2 cyl RT-S? The asking price is 13K. Nada price is about 13.8 without any adjustment for the low miles.

My guess is that the tire was run over inflated.

I think you need to know that ---- BRP is no longer making or selling any SPYDER with the V-twin engine ...... there is a reason for this ..... Mike

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

There's a lot of good things to say about the 1330 engine, but contrary to many opinions, the 990 is a good engine also. My nephew had no problem keeping up with me on our trip to Valcourt for Homecoming last spring. I was on my 2014 RTS, he on his 2010 RT A&C. But $13k for those machines is pushing the high side pretty hard. The price should be closer to $10k. Motorcycle owners across the board tend to value their bikes 15 to 20% above real market value. NADA prices are primarily dealer based. Private sales prices are closer to the lower NADA price. I had a 2013 base RT with 25k miles that I sold in March 2016 for $12,000.

[Omcge]

If it fits your Budget and drives good I say Go For it and don' look back.
I had a 2013 Twin Rt and a 14 and 15 Rt triples and I loved that Twin for the bottom end power and sound.
If you can do your own maintenance ,that is a plus because most of the Dealers seem to overcharge for repairs.
There are plenty of Threads on Tires, Oils, etc.,just do a search.

Good Luck

[Marr]

I went from a Silverwing to a 2011 RT manual shift 2 years ago, and it had only 1600 miles on it. Haven’t had any problems with it. I too would have liked to get a newer one, but everything cost money. I e got over 20,000 miles on it now. I rode it to Nebraska last summer and put almost 5000 miles on it. Another coincidence, we’re almost neighbors, I’m from Virginia Beach. If you need any help deciding let me know.

[Easy Rider]

So what would be a good price on a 2 cyl RT-S? The asking price is 13K. Nada price is about 13.8 without any adjustment for the low miles.

Two things about that:
The year model is important in determining a price.
NADA is a good bench mark, I think, but the point about dealer pricing is good.
Private seller price should be lower.

And extremely LOW miles is NOT a plus.

[chaz7771931]

Got a 2010 with just under 20k mile for 10k. Put about 1500 into it for upgraded swaybar plugs, wires, air filter, helmet locks, right side block off, lamonster dual power mount, x-grip, tomtom gps, clutch upgrade and 20k service from the dealer with all recalls done. It took about a week. Still looking to do more but arent we all...check the windshield adjustment arm about 200 for the arm plus labor unless you do it yourself.