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  1. #126
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    No idea what you are trying to relay here but...There is no problem with the engagement of the belt to the sprocket, nor of the teeth on the gears in the transmission. This is solely and issue with fit of the male and female splined output shaft and sprocket bore....and the single bolt that keeps them together.

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  2. #127
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Why are people getting different stock #s? The BRP Parts list 2015-2017 All end in 2134. Gonna check my # .
    According to my CD Shop Manual you only have to loosen belt enough to walk off the rear wheel and then replace sprocket AND new stock # Bolt 705502292 (2017).Cost is about $115. Torque to 92 Foot pounds. The bolt has the locktite already on it.

    I Called BRP Customer service and She said NO ONE else has called. If everyone picks up the phone and calls it would do more than E-Mails they can discard?

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  3. #128
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default 2134 vs.2131

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    Why are people getting different stock #s? The BRP Parts list 2015-2017 All end in 2134. Gonna check my # .
    According to my CD Shop Manual you only have to loosen belt enough to walk off the rear wheel and then replace sprocket AND new stock # Bolt 705502292 (2017).Cost is about $115. Torque to 92 Foot pounds. The bolt has the locktite already on it.

    I Called BRP Customer service and She said NO ONE else has called. If everyone picks up the phone and calls it would do more than E-Mails they can discard?

    Sarge;
    if in fact the original gear has the part # ending in '2134', then why does mine end in '2131'....?
    check out my pix in an earlier post...

    as for the 'bolt'... the bolt is there ONLY to hold the gear (sprocket) from coming off the spline... no other reason... and YES it must be torqued to the proper 'ft lbs' to hold things together....
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  4. #129
    Active Member always young's Avatar
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    Default Another 2 cent comment

    I see that someone is looking at applying lock wire to the bolt to secure it. Another item used on aircraft and race cars is to mark the bolt with torque seal. It's basically an epoxy type marker used across the bolt and adjacent surface. If the bolt moves any, the epoxy (bright red) will break and show a crack. This will indicate that the bolt has loosened. You might even be able to check this without removing the cover. Yup, just checked. Lay on your back and shine a light up under there and you can clearly see the bolt and sprocket without removing anything. A 10 second task. Well.... that depends on how long it take you to get down and back up off the floor.

  5. #130
    Active Member Omcge's Avatar
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    Default How the red oxide(Rust) is formed

    This explains how the Rust (Iron Oxide) is formed . Not my words found on Internet.

    Fretting wear is surface damage that occurs between two contacting surfaces experiencing cyclic motion (oscillatory tangential displacement) of small amplitude. This type of wear further promotes two-body abrasion, adhesion and/or fretting fatigue (a form of surface fatigue) wear.


    When fretting wear occurs in a corrosive environment, both the rubbing-off of oxide films and the increased abrasiveness of the harder oxidized wear debris tend to greatly accelerate wear. When corrosion activity is distinctly evident, as denoted by the color of the debris particles, the process is referred to as fretting corrosion.
    Fretting Wear
    Fretting wear is also known as vibrational wear, chafing, fatigue, wear oxidation, friction oxidation, false brinelling, molecular attrition, fretting fatigue and corrosion. Because virtually all machines vibrate, fretting occurs in joints that are bolted, pinned, press-fitted, keyed and riveted; between components that are not intended to move; in oscillating splines, couplings, bearings, clutches, spindles and seals; and in base plates, universal joints and shackles. Fretting has initiated fatigue cracks which often result in fatigue failure in shafts and other highly stressed components.

    Fretting wear is a surface-to-surface type of wear and is greatly affected by the displacement amplitude, normal loading, material properties, number of cycles, humidity and lubrication.
    Fretting Wear Process
    Cyclic motion between contacting surfaces is the essential ingredient in all types of fretting wear. It is a combination process that requires surfaces to be in contact and be exposed to small amplitude oscillations. Depending on the material properties of surfaces, adhesive, two-body abrasion and/or solid particles may produce wear debris. Wear particles detach and become comminuted (crushed) and the wear mechanism changes to three-body abrasion when the work-hardened debris starts removing metal from the surfaces.

    Fretting wear occurs as a result of the following sequence of events:

    1. The applied normal load causes asperities to adhere, and the tangential oscillatory motion shears the asperities and generates wear debris that accumulates.
    2. The surviving (harder) asperities eventually act on the smooth softer surfaces causing them to undergo plastic deformation, create voids, propagate cracks and shear off sheets of particles which also accumulate in depressed portions of the surfaces.
    3. Once the particles have accumulated sufficiently to span the gap between the surfaces, abrasion wear occurs and the wear zone spreads laterally.
    4. As adhesion, delamination and abrasion wear continue, wear debris can no longer be contained in the initial zone and it escapes into surrounding valleys.
    5. Because the maximum stress is at the center, the geometry becomes curved, micropits form and these coalesce into larger and deeper pits. Finally, depending on the displacement of the tangential motion, worm tracks or even large fissures can be generated in one or both surfaces.

    As the surfaces become work-hardened, the rate of abrasion wear decreases. Finally, a constant wear rate occurs, which shows that all the relevant wear modes are working in combination.
    Fretting Wear Characteristics
    The key factor in fretting wear is a mechanically loaded interface subjected to a small oscillatory motion. The relative motion required to produce damage may be quite small, as low as one micrometer, but more often is around a few thousandths of an inch. The wear coefficient depends on the amplitude of oscillation.
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  6. #131
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPYD3R View Post
    Sarge;
    if in fact the original gear has the part # ending in '2134', then why does mine end in '2131'....?
    check out my pix in an earlier post...

    as for the 'bolt'... the bolt is there ONLY to hold the gear (sprocket) from coming off the spline... no other reason... and YES it must be torqued to the proper 'ft lbs' to hold things together....
    Dan P
    SPYD3R
    That's why I asked? Are the 2134 Failing Or the Substitute (Different) Part Numbers?

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  7. #132
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    That's why I asked? Are the 2134 Failing Or the Substitute (Different) Part Numbers?
    A suggestion for everyone that has one fail from this point forward; note what part number the sprocket is. We may be able to develop a pattern. If BRP has superseded the number with a revised part and still installing the older number to stop loosing the $$ invested in the old stock, we are the ones that are paying for it.
    If nothing else, it will help determine if the newer number are also failing.

  8. #133
    Active Member cmarsala's Avatar
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    Default Sprocket

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    That's why I asked? Are the 2134 Failing Or the Substitute (Different) Part Numbers?
    Sarge, sounds like a good question to ask, could those that are having failure issues post the part number if it's available, mine is 2131 and so far no issue, but I am installing safety wire, it's from my old aircraft days, using 0.32 safety wire and I've already marked the bolt with an epoxy mark after I retorqued the bolt, so we shall see. Post your part number of failures or the red rust sprocket.

    Oh and I got a PM from a thin skined hypocrite with a very nasty remark, OMG, Ya'll know who it is, some people

  9. #134
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
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    cmarsala - did the bolt moved when you retorqued it? If so, about how much?

    Secondly, on the early trikes that had this same failure 5-8 years ago the problem was not the bolt backing out, it was the relative movement/wear between the flange on the shaft and the mating face on the inside of the pulley that caused bolt to be 'loose.' Consequently, I don't see much point in wiring the bolt.
    Last edited by Freddy; 11-01-2017 at 02:18 AM.
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  10. #135
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default Sarge

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    That's why I asked? Are the 2134 Failing Or the Substitute (Different) Part Numbers?

    Sarge;
    going back to an earlier post of mine:

    according to some, the old part # for the sprocket is 7055011986 & the new part # is 705502134.....
    mine is: 705502131.....

    we now have 3 different part numbers.... my fwd gear (sprocket) failed back on Jan. 28, 2016 @ 17,000+ miles... at that time my dealer installed a new gear, part # 705502131... others have had installed part # 705502134...

    are both newer part # good gears? have any of these part # also failed? worse question to ask, but must be: has anyone suffered injury based on this part failing while riding...?
    Dan P
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  11. #136
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations View Post
    A suggestion for everyone that has one fail from this point forward; note what part number the sprocket is. We may be able to develop a pattern. If BRP has superseded the number with a revised part and still installing the older number to stop loosing the $$ invested in the old stock, we are the ones that are paying for it.
    If nothing else, it will help determine if the newer number are also failing.

    The part I just got in from BRP ends in 2134.

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  12. #137
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    OK Went fishing and ALL 2015-2017 F3s and RTs List 705502134 Per BRP Parts
    Other models have other Numbers But I could not find a 2131 or 1986-
    Gonna check mine this afternoon.

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  13. #138
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    OK Went fishing and ALL 2015-2017 F3s and RTs List 705502134 Per BRP Parts
    Other models have other Numbers But I could not find a 2131 or 1986-
    Gonna check mine this afternoon.
    Follow this link and go to the bottom for part number 50 and you will see it has a superseded number crossed out. That is that 1986

    https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...ve-system-rear

  14. #139
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations View Post
    Follow this link and go to the bottom for part number 50 and you will see it has a superseded number crossed out. That is that 1986

    https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...ve-system-rear
    Roadster;
    ok, fine, i saw this list and 'yes' it does state a replacement gear, which is 2134.... but why does mine end in: 2131....???
    this situation should be made into a mystery movie titled: FINDING THE REAL SPROCKET.....
    I now have 27,000+ miles of smiles on my 2nd fwd gear, and i see NO rust, so i'm GOOD 2 GO.... (i hope)....
    Dan P
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  15. #140
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    Default General Consesus

    General Consensus?

    Will my dealer replace the red dusted front sprocket under warranty or will BRP demand it fail first?

  16. #141
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default 2

    Quote Originally Posted by Road-Kill View Post
    General Consensus?

    Will my dealer replace the red dusted front sprocket under warranty or will BRP demand it fail first?
    2 of my riding partners had theirs inspected, send pix to BRP, and got approval to R&R under warrantee.... neither failed, but both had red rust-dust on them....
    good luck, and keep us posted as to your results.... we care....
    Dan P
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  17. #142
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Road-Kill View Post
    General Consensus?

    Will my dealer replace the red dusted front sprocket under warranty or will BRP demand it fail first?
    You are covered. They will fix it. Think of it as a really, really silent recall............

    The dealers have been given the heads up. They just ain't saying anything publicly about it. Not bashing them, but some thing are pretty clear industry-wise. Never admit you are at fault. Repair problems as quietly as possible. Keep the knowledge of a problem away from the public. All manufacturers do this. Typical practice.

    What I would like to see is them going to the pulley manufacturer and making them responsible for these failures if it is a tolerance issue.

  18. #143
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Well here is a picture of mine and its 705502131? It has the Rust- Do I dare ride it a few times before it gets replaced?
    I only have 9,800 miles SM6 No Burnouts or crazy shifting.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  19. #144
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    Default SARGE707

    ​I would have the dealer look at it sooner rather than later.
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  20. #145
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    Well here is a picture of mine and its 705502131? It has the Rust- Do I dare ride it a few times before it gets replaced?
    I only have 9,800 miles SM6 No Burnouts or crazy shifting.
    That will be your call, Sarge. That 2131 is the same number I just got from Cheap Cycle Parts. Our friend was just taking off from a light when it occurred. I would stay in cell service range wherever I went if it was me.

  21. #146
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    Default remarks

    Quote Originally Posted by cmarsala View Post
    Sarge, sounds like a good question to ask, could those that are having failure issues post the part number if it's available, mine is 2131 and so far no issue, but I am installing safety wire, it's from my old aircraft days, using 0.32 safety wire and I've already marked the bolt with an epoxy mark after I retorqued the bolt, so we shall see. Post your part number of failures or the red rust sprocket.

    Oh and I got a PM from a thin skined hypocrite with a very nasty remark, OMG, Ya'll know who it is, some people
    It was not me that started the comments and no one asked for your opinion fat man! Learn how to spell and the proper use of there and they're.
    Road Kill and I settled our difference of opinion and we can settle ours!
    There is no need for you to be such a smart mouth troublemaker - or being so ignorant.
    Have a nice day Buttercuppy!!
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  22. #147
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    Default SPROCKET PART NUMBERS

    I just received a call from my dealer and my Spyder is ready to be picked up. It was in for the dreaded sprocket replacement. The svs mgr gave me the old and new sprocket numbers. The old #: 7055502131. The new: 705502134

    What is interesting is that a friend of mine had the same problem but a different dealer. She just got hers back today and her part # on the new sprocket is 705502131. So I really don't know if part numbers mean anything. My dealer told me that a different part # usually means a different supplier.
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  23. #148
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    After Calling BRP again- They are only for administrative help-Bring your maintenance problems to the dealer- Dealer said he could look at it MARCH-I Just ordered the Parts and the dealer will give me a break. I will show the pictures to the dealer BUT for about $100 I'm just going to Change It.
    Good thing is Parts get to Connecticut by Friday so I can do it before I ride again.

    Will take pictures to match with the bolt off!

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  24. #149
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    After Calling BRP again- They are only for administrative help-Bring your maintenance problems to the dealer- Dealer said he could look at it MARCH-I Just ordered the Parts and the dealer will give me a break. I will show the pictures to the dealer BUT for about $100 I'm just going to Change It.
    Good thing is Parts get to Connecticut by Friday so I can do it before I ride again.

    Will take pictures to match with the bolt off!
    Sarge, save the bad sprocket with dust intact and after your season is over, switch it back and take it to the dealer. You will then have a spare after they replace the bad one.

  25. #150
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default 50 yrs

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    I'm wondering if there are any common denominators Like-
    SE6 vs sm6?
    Hot Weather State VS Cooler weather?
    Heavier Person, 2 Up or Pulling trailer Vs Single Lighter rider?

    In CT I'm rarely more than 50 miles from home and AMA pays 35 miles flatbed anywhere you want. Many aren't So Fortunate.

    I think Heat and Belt tension must play some role?
    Sorry Sarge;
    i disagree with your analysis... with over 50 yrs in the manufacturing of Gas Turbines (aka; jet engines), i'm convinced it's one of two, or both; bad/no heat treating process or 2nd, wrong material... with years n years of working in the business of making things out of metal, i've seen many suppliers taking
    'short cuts' to up their profits.... WRONG WRONG WRONG in every way.... the greed of these companies has led to the death and/or injury of many people... until we hear what the exact reason is, i'll stick with my analysis...
    PS; we need to find out which part #'s are good, and which are the bad ones... we now have 3 different Part Numbers... HELP people....
    Dan P
    SPYD3R

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