Page 5 of 22 FirstFirst 12345678915 ... LastLast
Results 101 to 125 of 541
  1. #101
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Murphy, NC
    Posts
    1,388
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default SPROCKET

    Road-Kill I do not wish to make fun of your situation, but from the photo of your sprocket it could grenade any minute. So now you are part of the 1%!! Glad you checked your sprocket. Checking now could save you from a serious accident in the future! Hopefully you won’t be so critical in the future when other Spyder members bring up a potential problem.
    2020 F3 Ltd

    Spyderpops Bumpskid
    Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
    Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
    2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
    2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
    2015 F3-S , BajaRon Plugs Can-Am Red

  2. #102
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    3,658
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Now That we Know there is a Problem-WHAT is Brp Going to do?
    1st It was the Reinforcement of the Frame (2015)?
    2nd The 2015 sm6 Clutch needed a Vacuum assist UNLESS your King Kong??
    3rd- Had to Buy the 2 Up shock to protect the frame Potential Failure?
    Now I have to Buy a Sprocket Every 10,000- Miles?
    Wake Up BRP??????????????????

    And the sprocket for the 2017 is the same as the 2015 so they are clueless!

    We should have it replaced for free (Even if out of Warranty) On their Dime!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

    Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!

  3. #103
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    West Oz
    Posts
    906
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    See post 12 for the outcome of this owner's damaged shaft & pulley on earlier model.

    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...84#post1312984
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

  4. #104
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Somewhere USA
    Posts
    714
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations View Post
    Wow, that is a lot of red dust!
    The way I see it you have two choices;
    1. Ryde it like you stole it cause there isn't really a problem......
    or
    2. Get it to dealer ASAP while accelerating very gently. Insist upon the Loctite 660 to be added in between the splines of the new sprocket.

    I would not disturb the bolt for an inspection. I have seen less rust on sprockets that have completely grenaded, so you ain't got much spline left on that sprocket.
    Quote Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER View Post
    Road-Kill I do not wish to make fun of your situation, but from the photo of your sprocket it could grenade any minute. So now you are part of the 1%!! Glad you checked your sprocket. Checking now could save you from a serious accident in the future! Hopefully you won’t be so critical in the future when other Spyder members bring up a potential problem.
    I'm not admitting that I am wrong.....yet.
    I made an appointment with my dealer for next Thursday for both my 18,000+ mile service and the evil "red dust".
    This still could be a nothing burger so I'm not admitting I was wrong.....yet.
    So until I'm told my front sprocket is grinding you can all blow it out your *sses.

  5. #105
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    mathias,wv
    Posts
    225
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default sprocket

    Checked mine and it is ok.
    This thread is getting out of hand!! I see no need for some of the comments or language.
    If any of you have a personal vendetta why not use PM's and quit the nastiness!
    I joined this forum to learn and meet fellow members.
    It gets old when you ask a straight question or for an honest opinion and you get some crazy video or people fly off the handle
    because "you don't agree" with the answer.
    Go to PM's if you want to be nasty - don't drag everyone into your silliness.
    I feel better - thank you!
    Tip
    [SIGPIC]

  6. #106
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    GREENVILLE, SC
    Posts
    3,372
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default DEAD HORSE

    Quote Originally Posted by Road-Kill View Post
    I'm not admitting that I am wrong.....yet.
    I made an appointment with my dealer for next Thursday for both my 18,000+ mile service and the evil "red dust".
    This still could be a nothing burger so I'm not admitting I was wrong.....yet.
    So until I'm told my front sprocket is grinding you can all blow it out your *sses.


  7. #107
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Somewhere USA
    Posts
    714
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tip View Post
    Checked mine and it is ok.
    This thread is getting out of hand!! I see no need for some of the comments or language.
    If any of you have a personal vendetta why not use PM's and quit the nastiness!
    I joined this forum to learn and meet fellow members.
    It gets old when you ask a straight question or for an honest opinion and you get some crazy video or people fly off the handle
    because "you don't agree" with the answer.
    Go to PM's if you want to be nasty - don't drag everyone into your silliness.
    I feel better - thank you!
    Tip
    What nastiness?
    These are people posting their thoughts on a topic they feel concerned about.
    You are reading a thread but you are not hearing their voices so you assumed something bad.
    I do not feel anyone has become "nasty" over this thread which is about a metal gear that might become loose and rusty.
    Its nice to argue your point, its how we learn.
    There is nothing wrong with arguing a point or cracking some jokes so blow it out of your *ss and grow a pair.

  8. #108
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    mathias,wv
    Posts
    225
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default nastiness

    I rest my case!!
    [SIGPIC]

  9. #109
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Somewhere USA
    Posts
    714
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tip View Post
    I rest my case!!
    Its a provacative joke. Get a grip butter cup.

  10. #110
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    mathias,wv
    Posts
    225
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Joke

    Quote Originally Posted by Road-Kill View Post
    Its a provacative joke. Get a grip butter cup.
    It is an offensive joke!!
    [SIGPIC]

  11. #111
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Fort Mill, SC
    Posts
    1,951
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default



    Ya'll calm down. Stop the insults and name calling. State facts and have a discussion.
    2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
    1998 Honda Valkyrie
    2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
    US Navy Veteran
    SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
    CNC Machine Service Technician
    President: Rolling Thunder SC1
    Member: Disabled American Veterans, Rock Hill, SC
    Member: American Legion
    Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!

  12. #112
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Somewhere USA
    Posts
    714
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grandpot View Post


    Ya'll calm down. Stop the insults and name calling. State facts and have a discussion.
    Here are the facts.
    I have red dust.
    My dealer will do the 18,000 mile service next week and tell me what the red dust means and whether it needs replacement.
    I will post his findings on this thread next Thursday the day of service.
    If I'm wrong about this issue I give permission to my fellow posters to beat me up about this issue, I might be deserving of it.
    My bike and this forum are about having a good time and that is how I sent and received the criticism.

  13. #113
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    2,655
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Back on track

    Getting back to the reason for this thread in the first place; several folks have caught theirs just before they grenaded. That in itself in my opinion is worth the effort of the thread.
    Also, all the folks that come upon this thread in the future may benefit from checking for the telltale red failure dust. As someone said, the presence of the red dust is iron powder from the splines on the pulley eroding and further reducing the fit to the shaft. This is a self propagating situation that will accelerate as more erosion occurs the fit will get looser, causing more erosion, looser fit, etc., etc..

    I think that BRP should send out a heads up to owners of what to look for. The sad thing is they probably are afraid to admit a problem as this will open them up to more possible liability. My Mastertech training (and you old engineers will agree) that it is understandable that the pulley material must be softer than the shaft. From a repair standpoint it is much easier to replace a pulley than pull the eng/trans, crack it open and replace an output shaft. One of the machinists hit on the problem in my opinion, and that is a matter of the tolerances of the two mating together. If they fit well, they shouldn't fail. If they are sloppy, they probably will. Wonder if the manufacturer for the shafts is the same as the pulleys? We probably won't ever know for sure, but I would say that is the problem. Quality control of fitment.

  14. #114
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Somewhere USA
    Posts
    714
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations View Post
    Getting back to the reason for this thread in the first place; several folks have caught theirs just before they grenaded. That in itself in my opinion is worth the effort of the thread.
    Also, all the folks that come upon this thread in the future may benefit from checking for the telltale red failure dust. As someone said, the presence of the red dust is iron powder from the splines on the pulley eroding and further reducing the fit to the shaft. This is a self propagating situation that will accelerate as more erosion occurs the fit will get looser, causing more erosion, looser fit, etc., etc..

    I think that BRP should send out a heads up to owners of what to look for. The sad thing is they probably are afraid to admit a problem as this will open them up to more possible liability. My Mastertech training (and you old engineers will agree) that it is understandable that the pulley material must be softer than the shaft. From a repair standpoint it is much easier to replace a pulley than pull the eng/trans, crack it open and replace an output shaft. One of the machinists hit on the problem in my opinion, and that is a matter of the tolerances of the two mating together. If they fit well, they shouldn't fail. If they are sloppy, they probably will. Wonder if the manufacturer for the shafts is the same as the pulleys? We probably won't ever know for sure, but I would say that is the problem. Quality control of fitment.
    Interesting that when I made my appointment with my dealer he was ready to take me right in yet when I mentioned "red dust" he backlogged me another week. I'm thinking from knowing the head mechanic he backlogged me because he needed time to get the parts in before my arrival.
    On another note....
    I noticed the front sprocket has "made in USA" on it telling me you are correct in that the fit might be off and the cause.

  15. #115
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Pueblo Colorado
    Posts
    905
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Thanks for the heads up on what to look for..

    Wifes 16 F3T looks good after 19,000 miles plus. I am going to make a mental note to look at it when doing normal maintenance or maybe do a little "coast check" for noise as suggested, when I can turn the ignition off and coast safely. We will continue to RYDE, RYDE, RYDE, and not let this or other possibilities keep us from enjoying our trips on our Spyders, as we have experienced many myles of smyles and choose to continue to do so. Thanks to all for their help and communication!DSCN2368.jpg
    07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
    03 Harley Sportster, 07 RK moved on
    11 RT- 76,000 mi, 15 RT-S- 44,000 mi, traded for current 15 base RT and 16 F3T
    2015 RT , OEM Black Gloss

  16. #116
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Murphy, NC
    Posts
    1,388
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default MM vs Inches

    It occurred to me that the 1330 engine is manufactured in Canada or Europe and the front sprocket is made in USA. So the engine would be millimeters and the sprocket could possibly be in inches if some engineer didn’t do the math to convert. This could certainly be a possibility to cause the tolerances to be off just a bit.
    2020 F3 Ltd

    Spyderpops Bumpskid
    Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
    Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
    2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
    2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
    2015 F3-S , BajaRon Plugs Can-Am Red

  17. #117
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    2,655
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Tollerances

    Machining parts is not an exact science. You would think it would be, but it isn't. Each part has a go/no go range. As an example, let's say a bearing has a minimum of 1.001 and a maximum of 1.005. Now, that is only 4 thousands difference. Not much right?
    Now, the housing for this bearing has a minimum of 1.006 and a maximum of 1.010. Now, that is only 4 thousands, right. Not much.

    You have to have enough space for the largest tolerance to fit, so it cannot be less than that or it won't fit. And you cannot make every part exactly the same size, so again you have a go/no go range.

    Now, this is where it gets sketchy, and probably the reason why some are failing and some are not. Let's say you get a shaft at the minimum tolerance to pass and a sprocket at the maximum tolerance. You then get a sloppy fit and a tendency to grenade.

    Some of you retired machinists might be able to explain this better, but it is my understanding that in machining there are no absolutes in production.

  18. #118
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    West Oz
    Posts
    906
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    The reason given by BRP for failures on the early trikes was 'insufficient clamping force' ie bolt not tight enough. Perhaps the same cause here.
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

  19. #119
    Active Member cmarsala's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Cary, North Carolina
    Posts
    90
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by tip View Post
    It is an offensive joke!!
    Sorry to add to your offensiveness, but there is an escape button or X out of the thread or just don't follow it at all. This isn't a perfect world we live in. If your that thin skinned and easily offended, as one poster said, "suck it up buttercup"

  20. #120
    Active Member cmarsala's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Cary, North Carolina
    Posts
    90
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Sprocket Failure

    Quote Originally Posted by Freddy View Post
    The reason given by BRP for failures on the early trikes was 'insufficient clamping force' ie bolt not tight enough. Perhaps the same cause here.
    This could very well be a big part of the problem, I put a torque wrench on my bolt and got about an 1/8th of an inch turn before it hit the factory torque setting. My nephew is a supervisor at a machine shop so he's helping me out with the bolt, getting it drilled for the safety wire that I plan on using.

  21. #121
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    2,655
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cmarsala View Post
    This could very well be a big part of the problem, I put a torque wrench on my bolt and got about an 1/8th of an inch turn before it hit the factory torque setting. My nephew is a supervisor at a machine shop so he's helping me out with the bolt, getting it drilled for the safety wire that I plan on using.
    Could it be possible that the sloppiness of the sprocket fit is breaking the bolt tension? Could be a combination. I don't think that the bolt would loosen up without play in the splines.

  22. #122
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    West Oz
    Posts
    906
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Due to insufficient clamping force as we now have proof from 1 owner. Tying the bolt is not the answer.
    Last edited by Freddy; 10-30-2017 at 09:41 PM.
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

  23. #123
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    GREENVILLE, SC
    Posts
    3,372
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default NEW OLD MINE

    according to some, the old part # for the sprocket is 7055011986 & the new part # is 705502134.....

    mine is: 705502131.....



    20171031_105557.jpg 20171031_105644.jpg HOPE you can read either picture....
    who is right, does it make a difference, what's for lunch, Merry Christmas.....
    Dan P
    SPYD3R
    Last edited by SPYD3R; 10-31-2017 at 10:45 AM.

  24. #124
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Somewhere USA
    Posts
    714
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Freddy View Post
    Due to insufficient clamping force as we now have proof from 1 owner. Tying the bolt is not the answer.
    Quote Originally Posted by SPYD3R View Post
    according to some, the old part # for the sprocket is 7055011986 & the new part # is 705502134.....

    mine is: 705502131.....



    20171031_105557.jpg 20171031_105644.jpg HOPE you can read either picture....
    who is right, does it make a difference, what's for lunch, Merry Christmas.....
    Dan P
    SPYD3R
    The sad fact remains that I do not know (or could know) which part would clamp better.
    I'm at the mercy of my dealer who I feel is doing a good job at taking care of my ride.
    I think after my dealer does his thing this issue will require my attention from time to time.
    What's nice though is that to look for the evil red dust requires only two minutes to remove the 3 cover bolts.

  25. #125
    Active Member greybeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    indianapolis indiana
    Posts
    106
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default gears

    O.k. I have to jump in here. Just a few facts, I'm retired tool maker. The gear and spline have to have play or it would not turn, the gear and spline or another gear should make contact only at the pitch dia. which is a very small area, the shape of the teeth is very important. Different manufacturers should have nothing to do with it. The tolerances specified by the engineer should never allow for more or less than the allowable play. BRP quality control should be checking when these come in the door. Maybe every 5th part, put if you find a problem they should go back and check every one.
    The problem here is that assembly is transmitting motion is a radial direction, but the belt is trying to pull the pulley out of alignment with spline. The top of the pulley tooth and bottom of the spline should never touch.
    the locating dia. and taper on the bolt and dia. and taper in the shaft should achieve this goal, but the dia and tapers must be concentric. A precision machine shop should have no problems achieving these goals.
    Loctite between teeth and spline would only cause problems. Excess pressure on the belt would magnify any little problem. A bad casting with pits could break down
    Things to look for-you can use a neversieze product on the gears, and guess what? some of these products look exactly like your red rust. Check wear marks on the bolt head taper and shaft hole, are they only on one side?. Is the bottom of the screw head bottoming on the shaft before it tightens on the pulley?
    Very easy to check the play with flat feeler gauges between one gear tooth and spline and roll it around, maybe check in 2 places front and back
    A tech should only take about 15 minutes to do this, especially on F3 with no tuperware.

    Paul

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •