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  1. #476
    Active Member Black Pig's Avatar
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    let's hope they are not wasting time and money...

  2. #477
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    I went back through the threads here and I cannot find anyone that has had a output shaft bearing failure. In each case where the shaft was replaced it was due to the splines being worn, causing multiple front sprocket failures.
    Also, the symptoms you reported don't sound like a bearing failure either. A bad bearing will give a high pitched whine that will increase as the RPM's go up. Never heard of a bearing causing a "clunk". That is a machined part and when it starts to fail it is due to the surface of the part that rotates grinding against the part that is in a fixed location. Also, if it was that loose and had that much play, it should have caused a massive oil leak from behind the sprocket since the seal would have been egg shaped due to excessive play.
    I think your dealer either: 1. Doesn't know what they are doing. 2. Decided that they would do this expensive repair to generate them more money.
    The scary part here is that BRP has much better records than us and may not allow payment for the repair/inspection. I would call BRP customer care and instead of focusing on the poor service you are getting, explain what we have been saying here. I also would put the information in your own words and make no mention of this board. They hate to hear about stuff you read on the internet and that will shut them down. I think you can insist that the byke be taken to another dealer.
    It won't hurt to try and only costs you a few minutes of your time.
    Last edited by Roadster Renovations; 06-29-2018 at 08:23 AM.

  3. #478
    Active Member 007james's Avatar
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    Default Sproket Update

    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations View Post
    I went back through the threads here and I cannot find anyone that has had a output shaft bearing failure. In each case where the shaft was replaced it was due to the splines being worn, causing multiple front sprocket failures.
    Also, the symptoms you reported don't sound like a bearing failure either. A bad bearing will give a high pitched whine that will increase as the RPM's go up. Never heard of a bearing causing a "clunk". That is a machined part and when it starts to fail it is due to the surface of the part that rotates grinding against the part that is in a fixed location. Also, if it was that loose and had that much play, it should have caused a massive oil leak from behind the sprocket since the seal would have been egg shaped due to excessive play.
    I think your dealer either: 1. Doesn't know what they are doing. 2. Decided that they would do this expensive repair to generate them more money.
    The scary part here is that BRP has much better records than us and may not allow payment for the repair/inspection. I would call BRP customer care and instead of focusing on the poor service you are getting, explain what we have been saying here. I also would put the information in your own words and make no mention of this board. They hate to hear about stuff you read on the internet and that will shut them down. I think you can insist that the byke be taken to another dealer.
    It won't hurt to try and only costs you a few minutes of your time.
    Doc, thanks for your Advice. But following your recommendations will certainly take more than a few minutes of my time. It will be wasted time, that will cause me more aditional stress in my life than I want to deal with, at my ripe old age of 76. My next closest Dealer is 50 miles away, and is about 1/4 of the size, and has even less Techs. So, I am at the mercy ( option) of this Dealer who sold me the RT to do just about what ever they please with my RT, that they can get either BRP to Waurentee, or force me to pay for. #1 of your above comments is most likely. They have never removed a Spyder engine before, or disassembled one, because I just returned from there, and asked to get my Garmon GPS, off it, my Jacket and gloves. At least, its cramed inside, way in the back with dozens of other Vehicles. They have not even started on it, and don’t really know what’s wrong with it, I ws told this morning. They do not have a lift that they can lift a Spyder on to remove the engine from the Chassis. He said they can’t do it from the floor. So, now, I am not even back in their Booking SChedule until they get the extension parts they ordered for their Lift! I wad told they had it originally scheduled for 2 hours, but now they will have to reschedule it for 5 hours just to remove the engine and tear it down to diagnose the problem. So, at this point, if I piss them off, they have the option to not continue doing any thing more at all to it, and tell me to take it some where else. So, again, as said, I am at their mercy to do what ever they decide to do with the RT. If I start going behind their back, directly to BRP, I would loose all support from the Dealer, and BRP would blow me off like a flea off an elephant’s back. Canada now hates us Americans any way, due to Politics. So, I already executed my best Option, i.e. Plan B, the new Harley in my garage. Instead of staying all stressed out, and fighting with the Dealer trying to put pressure on them for some thing that is not their fault, and fight with BRP , I will just enjoy my new Harley, in this Summer nice weather, and hope the Dealer will eventually catch up on their Service over load, and deal with my Spyder ethically, using it as a Traning Model for their first Engine removal and disassembly. They are a large Dealer, with a fairly good reputation to uphold, and are not a Mom and Pop Business like the other Dealer 50 miles away, that wouldn’t even invest in a Rolo Laser Allignment Machine to allign my front end on my 2012 RT that kept wearing out my front tires every 12,000 miles. So, I will chill, enjoy my Harley, and let Fate happen with my Spyder, hoping I might get it back by Fall when its then too cold to ride my Harley. I will report back here when and if, I get it back repaired, and what was done, and who had to pay for it. But as I said, I am hung out to dry, with out any Power to demand any one do any thing, at this point. I am like a dog hoping to get fed its next meal. I have spent about $70,000 on two Spyder Rts since Jan. 2012, with Service, so, BRP or the Dealer won’t go out of business If they loose me as a Customer. .
    2016 RT Limited , Black & Lava Bronze

  4. #479
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007james View Post
    Doc, thanks for your Advice. But following your recommendations will certainly take more than a few minutes of my time. It will be wasted time, that will cause me more aditional stress in my life than I want to deal with, at my ripe old age of 76. My next closest Dealer is 50 miles away, and is about 1/4 of the size, and has even less Techs. So, I am at the mercy ( option) of this Dealer who sold me the RT to do just about what ever they please with my RT, that they can get either BRP to Waurentee, or force me to pay for. #1 of your above comments is most likely. They have never removed a Spyder engine before, or disassembled one, because I just returned from there, and asked to get my Garmon GPS, off it, my Jacket and gloves. At least, its cramed inside, way in the back with dozens of other Vehicles. They have not even started on it, and don’t really know what’s wrong with it, I ws told this morning. They do not have a lift that they can lift a Spyder on to remove the engine from the Chassis. He said they can’t do it from the floor. So, now, I am not even back in their Booking SChedule until they get the extension parts they ordered for their Lift! I wad told they had it originally scheduled for 2 hours, but now they will have to reschedule it for 5 hours just to remove the engine and tear it down to diagnose the problem. So, at this point, if I piss them off, they have the option to not continue doing any thing more at all to it, and tell me to take it some where else. So, again, as said, I am at their mercy to do what ever they decide to do with the RT. If I start going behind their back, directly to BRP, I would loose all support from the Dealer, and BRP would blow me off like a flea off an elephant’s back. Canada now hates us Americans any way, due to Politics. So, I already executed my best Option, i.e. Plan B, the new Harley in my garage. Instead of staying all stressed out, and fighting with the Dealer trying to put pressure on them for some thing that is not their fault, and fight with BRP , I will just enjoy my new Harley, in this Summer nice weather, and hope the Dealer will eventually catch up on their Service over load, and deal with my Spyder ethically, using it as a Traning Model for their first Engine removal and disassembly. They are a large Dealer, with a fairly good reputation to uphold, and are not a Mom and Pop Business like the other Dealer 50 miles away, that wouldn’t even invest in a Rolo Laser Allignment Machine to allign my front end on my 2012 RT that kept wearing out my front tires every 12,000 miles. So, I will chill, enjoy my Harley, and let Fate happen with my Spyder, hoping I might get it back by Fall when its then too cold to ride my Harley. I will report back here when and if, I get it back repaired, and what was done, and who had to pay for it. But as I said, I am hung out to dry, with out any Power to demand any one do any thing, at this point. I am like a dog hoping to get fed its next meal. I have spent about $70,000 on two Spyder Rts since Jan. 2012, with Service, so, BRP or the Dealer won’t go out of business If they loose me as a Customer. .
    I completely understand and I don't see anything else you can really do either. Doesn't make it right though...

  5. #480
    Very Active Member Tango's Avatar
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    I'm headed in for my yearly service on Tuesday. Keeping my fingers crossed. Hope mine is ok. Tom
    Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?



    2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL

  6. #481
    Very Active Member Tango's Avatar
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    They checked both sides of the pulley. No dust! Tom
    Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?



    2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL

  7. #482
    Active Member 007james's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations View Post
    I completely understand and I don't see anything else you can really do either. Doesn't make it right though...
    Update as of Fri. 7/27: I went to the Dealer today, and was told the problem is not as bad as they initially thought,....7 weeks ago!! They have now decided its a worn Sprocket, so they won’t need to remove the engine and disassemble it. So, they ordered a Sproket I was told, and the ETA on it from the Factory is Aug. 6. So, I was told they put my Spyder back in the Booking Appt. list to install the Sprocket Aug.12. So, if that resolves the problem, that will end up being 9 weeks from the day I left the Spyder there , because I did not dare to drive it home in fear of causing further damage. My Summer riding plans are gone, as far as riding with my Wife. But I have put 2000 miles on my Harley Heritage since I bought it, so have not been Cabin bound. Glad I bought the Harley, as it would have ended up being a very boring Summer. Imagine if I ever need an engine overhaul! Ironically, as Fate happens, I received an email from the Dealer asking if I would do a 3 minute Survey regarding my experince with their Dealership only, and not BRP since I bought the Spyder new from them 14 months ago. Obviously, I responded that I was absolutely thrilled with their excellent Professional Service.
    2016 RT Limited , Black & Lava Bronze

  8. #483
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    So sad that a dealer tech can be so inept as to cause a 2 month repair for less than an hour work. Especially when its a very well known and often repeated failure mode for the model. Just inexcusable that the dealer could muck this up so badly. Should have been a few days max. Next day since you were on the road and stranded, bike should have been taken in same day, front of line. Just awful dealer service on so many levels.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  9. #484
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    Red face Front sprocket

    Inspected mine after two years and 14,000 miles. No red dust

  10. #485
    Active Member 007james's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    So sad that a dealer tech can be so inept as to cause a 2 month repair for less than an hour work. Especially when its a very well known and often repeated failure mode for the model. Just inexcusable that the dealer could muck this up so badly. Should have been a few days max. Next day since you were on the road and stranded, bike should have been taken in same day, front of line. Just awful dealer service on so many levels.
    If I was 20 years younger, I would never allow any one to take such advantage of me. But let’s face it. We rarely get much respect any where in the U.S. when we are Male Geezers over 60. But I have already fought too many battles such as this one, and won them all, when I decided to play the game. But what these dealers never imagine, that some old fart like me that wanders in, buys an expensive Machine like a Spyder RT Limited, my 2nd one in 6 years, that when an old fart pays cash, twice, with no financing, he might have a little future cash to spend. Well, it just so hapoens, this old fart happens to be a retired Millionare, with many, many wealthy friends, that sure as heck will never buy a Can-Am Spyder or buy any thing from a Dealer that has treated me like a mushroom as they have done. Worse, this last incident is only one example of the lousy service of the past. My 2012 RT had the Compressor or Air Bag go out. I took it in, and same deal. They had it 10 days, said they did all the diagnoses, removed the Air Bag, pressure tested it, put it back in, and tested the compressor, and charged me $100 Diagnoses and sent me home. The next day, my Orange Dash gauge was off, Horn not working, and nothing had changed. I took it back to the Dealer, and they kept it another week, and told me BOTH the Air Bag and Compressor needed to be replaced and it would cost me another $1300. My Waurentee had long expired on the 2012, so I was not a Happy Camper, to say the least, considering I had just spent another $1500-1700 a few months prior to do brakes, tires, Laser Alignment, etc. So I did not want to put any more money on the 2012 998 V-Twin, so I bought a new 2016 left over on their show room floor, and took a beating on trade, as they only allowed me $8000 on my 2012, which they cleaned up, and sold it quickly for a real healthy prophet. But I was still pleased to have a new 1330 6 speed, even knowing I got screwed on trade. But we old Millionaire farts don’t accept getting screwed until death, at least not with out a little complaining, as I am venting here. In my career, I have been V.P.- Sales for several very large Industrial Firms, and hired and fired hunderds of Dealers and Distributors accross the U.S. during my career. Some of the best Dealers I ever hired turned out to be Mom and Pop Dealers, with out the large Show Rooms loaded with Multiple Brands of Product that they coudn’t service. Any way, Power Sports is a very different Industry than Automobiles, but still is no reason that we have to be treated like Beggers at their mercy. I’ll get thru this, sooner or later, being wiser, more patient, and thankful that I have not hit another Deer! It always could be worse. Its only a Spyder, not my Master! Just another Toy.
    Last edited by 007james; 07-28-2018 at 10:15 PM.
    2016 RT Limited , Black & Lava Bronze

  11. #486
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
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    Once bitten twice shy, is my motto - but if I had that much money to throw around I'd buy a third or fourth like I've seen some folks here do, until I found a reliable one - takes some time and trial & error though apparently.
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

  12. #487
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Does anyone know if BRP ever published a tech bulletin or even a service advisory on BOSSWEB regarding the use of Loctite 648 on the shaft? I heard about it from Lamont and Kenny Butler and my dealer knew about it so its official some where.

    Now a couple folks on Facebook are having pulley issues and their dealer claims there is no such information posted by BRP. If there is anything official, can some one point me to it or even a bulletin or advisory number to look up?

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  13. #488
    Active Member 007james's Avatar
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    Default Sprocket problem update

    I got my Spyder back today. The Grinding and whining sound is gone. It has been repaired under Waurentee. The Service Repair Order reads:”Started engine removal process and found splines on pully damaged, and pully stuck on shaft. Repaced Front Pulley and Test drive. No further issues duplicated. “ So, that’s it Folks. 2 months down to fix the above. The Parts listed on the Order they list are, Part # 705502134 Sprocket 28 TH; # 705502292 Screw - Hex Flange Din.6921 S. Then, they list Rear Tire 705501464, what ever that means. They never replaced the tire. The only other interesting thing is, they were not booked to work on it again until Aug. 14. But I emailed BRP early this morning, and explained my story. The Response from BRP was fast, i.e. a couple hours later. Funny, as they said no Case Number had been started on my Spyder by the Dealer yet! I answered their questions, went for a 3 hour ride on my Harley, and must have been called on my Cell during my Harley ride to come pick up my Spyder, as it was ready! I should have contacted BRP month ago. But then, I wouldn’t have bought a Harley! So all’s well that ends well. Better yet, the Spyder and Harley both fit in my garage, after I arranged the clutter.



    Quote Originally Posted by 007james View Post
    If I was 20 years younger, I would never allow any one to take such advantage of me. But let’s face it. We rarely get much respect any where in the U.S. when we are Male Geezers over 60. But I have already fought too many battles such as this one, and won them all, when I decided to play the game. But what these dealers never imagine, that some old fart like me that wanders in, buys an expensive Machine like a Spyder RT Limited, my 2nd one in 6 years, that when an old fart pays cash, twice, with no financing, he might have a little future cash to spend. Well, it just so hapoens, this old fart happens to be a retired Millionare, with many, many wealthy friends, that sure as heck will never buy a Can-Am Spyder or buy any thing from a Dealer that has treated me like a mushroom as they have done. Worse, this last incident is only one example of the lousy service of the past. My 2012 RT had the Compressor or Air Bag go out. I took it in, and same deal. They had it 10 days, said they did all the diagnoses, removed the Air Bag, pressure tested it, put it back in, and tested the compressor, and charged me $100 Diagnoses and sent me home. The next day, my Orange Dash gauge was off, Horn not working, and nothing had changed. I took it back to the Dealer, and they kept it another week, and told me BOTH the Air Bag and Compressor needed to be replaced and it would cost me another $1300. My Waurentee had long expired on the 2012, so I was not a Happy Camper, to say the least, considering I had just spent another $1500-1700 a few months prior to do brakes, tires, Laser Alignment, etc. So I did not want to put any more money on the 2012 998 V-Twin, so I bought a new 2016 left over on their show room floor, and took a beating on trade, as they only allowed me $8000 on my 2012, which they cleaned up, and sold it quickly for a real healthy prophet. But I was still pleased to have a new 1330 6 speed, even knowing I got screwed on trade. But we old Millionaire farts don’t accept getting screwed until death, at least not with out a little complaining, as I am venting here. In my career, I have been V.P.- Sales for several very large Industrial Firms, and hired and fired hunderds of Dealers and Distributors accross the U.S. during my career. Some of the best Dealers I ever hired turned out to be Mom and Pop Dealers, with out the large Show Rooms loaded with Multiple Brands of Product that they coudn’t service. Any way, Power Sports is a very different Industry than Automobiles, but still is no reason that we have to be treated like Beggers at their mercy. I’ll get thru this, sooner or later, being wiser, more patient, and thankful that I have not hit another Deer! It always could be worse. Its only a Spyder, not my Master! Just another Toy.
    2016 RT Limited , Black & Lava Bronze

  14. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    Does anyone know if BRP ever published a tech bulletin or even a service advisory on BOSSWEB regarding the use of Loctite 648 on the shaft? I heard about it from Lamont and Kenny Butler and my dealer knew about it so its official some where.

    Now a couple folks on Facebook are having pulley issues and their dealer claims there is no such information posted by BRP. If there is anything official, can some one point me to it or even a bulletin or advisory number to look up?
    I am astonished on at least two different points.

    JC, you've been so helpful to so many, it surprises me that you've had no response to your query for a couple days now.

    It surprises me you don't have the answer already, you've been working this issue for so long.

    I'm just floored from the various trials regarding service that 007 relates.

    Roanoke is not BFE, and I speculated for some time regarding his assertions that the Canuks have it in for us, but I don't believe that. BRPs response to his plight, once they actually *knew* about it, also proves the point. He's just got a bad dealer, and now everyone knows it.

    I was "walking the line" at a Can Am (and multi brand) close to me today, eyeballing Spyders. I know their shop, and some of the service guys. They're Young, all of them. It never occurred to me that perhaps their lifts could not lift a Spyder. Well, now I know what to ask them, next time I'm in their shop.

    Anyway, I hope 007 gets treated better there, and I hope JC gets an answer regarding a TSB number or something similar.

  15. #490
    Active Member 007james's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007james View Post
    I got my Spyder back today. The Grinding and whining sound is gone. It has been repaired under Waurentee. The Service Repair Order reads:”Started engine removal process and found splines on pully damaged, and pully stuck on shaft. Repaced Front Pulley and Test drive. No further issues duplicated. “ So, that’s it Folks. 2 months down to fix the above. The Parts listed on the Order they list are, Part # 705502134 Sprocket 28 TH; # 705502292 Screw - Hex Flange Din.6921 S. Then, they list Rear Tire 705501464, what ever that means. They never replaced the tire. The only other interesting thing is, they were not booked to work on it again until Aug. 14. But I emailed BRP early this morning, and explained my story. The Response from BRP was fast, i.e. a couple hours later. Funny, as they said no Case Number had been started on my Spyder by the Dealer yet! I answered their questions, went for a 3 hour ride on my Harley, and must have been called on my Cell during my Harley ride to come pick up my Spyder, as it was ready! I should have contacted BRP month ago. But then, I wouldn’t have bought a Harley! So all’s well that ends well. Better yet, the Spyder and Harley both fit in my garage, after I arranged the clutter.
    Update as of Aug. 8, 2018.
    As noted, I got my Spyder back yesterday. It would not start this morning. Lights came on, Fuel Pump, etc. but would not even click. I put my Battery Charger on it, and after charging 10 minutes, the “ Bad Battery” Red Indicater Light came on in my Battery Charger. So I removed the Battery, and brought it to the Dealer, who put his Battery Checker on my Battery, and said it was a good Battery. But he said there could be a bad cell in tne battery not indicated in his Honda Battery Checker. Waurentee on Batteries are only 6 months, so I had to buy a new Battery for $150.i was told the Battery was Factory charged, so I got it home, installed it, and it was not charged enough to start the Spyder. So I put my Battery Tender on it and will try again tomorrow. I had applied for a Waurentee Extension from BRP, and was notified today that they have given me a 4 Month Factory Waurentee Extension for my past frustrations and down time. So that is a little good news.
    2016 RT Limited , Black & Lava Bronze

  16. #491
    Active Member cmarsala's Avatar
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    Default Front pulley failure

    With all the issues going on with the front pulley, has anyone seen the TSB's BRP has put out about this problem or does anyone have a copy of the TSB they'd like to share with the rest of us????

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    Quote Originally Posted by cmarsala View Post
    With all the issues going on with the front pulley, has anyone seen the TSB's BRP has put out about this problem or does anyone have a copy of the TSB they'd like to share with the rest of us????
    I am not aware of any TSB'S released by BRP. They all seem to be handled on a case by case basis, which is why you or your service tech has to be in touch with a rep. This has been covered before in an earlier post in which this topic was addressed, BTW.

  18. #493
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny pop View Post
    I am not aware of any TSB'S released by BRP. They all seem to be handled on a case by case basis, which is why you or your service tech has to be in touch with a rep. This has been covered before in an earlier post in which this topic was addressed, BTW.
    Which, seems a bit odd and kind of silly considering it is a known concern.

    If there is no TSB, is there BRP approved maintenance data for installing the pulley and removing the pulley when Loctite is utilized. With that, have they revised the maintenance manual to include the Loctite process?

    The entire pulley failure and remedy seems very lax and haphazard from the manufacturers end. Sorry, simply my opinion from watching the owners stress, reactions and even the techs inability to know this happens or quickly diagnose it. Too many reports of shops wanting to remove the engine and open up the gearbox. A simple TSB might add confidence when needed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Which, seems a bit odd and kind of silly considering it is a known concern.

    If there is no TSB, is there BRP approved maintenance data for installing the pulley and removing the pulley when Loctite is utilized. With that, have they revised the maintenance manual to include the Loctite process?

    The entire pulley failure and remedy seems very lax and haphazard from the manufacturers end. Sorry, simply my opinion from watching the owners stress, reactions and even the techs inability to know this happens or quickly diagnose it. Too many reports of shops wanting to remove the engine and open up the gearbox. A simple TSB might add confidence when needed.
    Agreed. So call BRP and make your feelings known to them. I was lucky, and my service tech was smart enough to contact BRP, sending pictures and a description before making guesses on his own. It seems to be the only way to go for now, as I stated that is decided on a case by case basis, as each case has it's minor differences.

  20. #495
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny pop View Post
    Agreed. So call BRP and make your feelings known to them. I was lucky, and my service tech was smart enough to contact BRP, sending pictures and a description before making guesses on his own. It seems to be the only way to go for now, as I stated that is decided on a case by case basis, as each case has it's minor differences.
    BRP can sort out their own pitfalls. Sadly, as bad as some dealers can be, BRP can at times add gasoline to the fire.

    As for our Spyder, it was delivered in 2014 with lubricated splines. I, myself removed the pulley and inspected both the shaft and pulley splines for wear. There was no red oxide dust at all. Reassembled with lubricated splines and a new style bolt. Next inspection and relube will be the 28k miles service, and if that seems good, 28k therafter.

  21. #496
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Picking up another bolt to check my 2015 F3 sprocket and Can Not remember the torque ??? Please will post 15,000 mile pictures when done!!

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

    Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!

  22. #497
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    Default Pully bolt tension

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    Picking up another bolt to check my 2015 F3 sprocket and Can Not remember the torque ??? Please will post 15,000 mile pictures when done!!
    It is 92 lb-ft plus or minus 4

  23. #498
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce B View Post
    It is 92 lb-ft plus or minus 4
    Thanks Will post pictures of my 15,000 mile sprocket when I do it.

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

    Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!

  24. #499
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    Just changed my oil and checked under the cover and this is what I found
    6A13FAB7-820E-4AF8-B359-E355E35FA399.jpg
    2017 F3 Limited
    2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic

  25. #500
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AY4B View Post
    Just changed my oil and checked under the cover and this is what I found
    6A13FAB7-820E-4AF8-B359-E355E35FA399.jpg
    I drove it to a dealer and found that it was closed due to Presidents day. I did however check the torque before I left and it was way under the 92 pounds. I torqued it to 92 and went. It should be OK till the next chance I get to drive it down there.
    2017 F3 Limited
    2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic

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