After seeing that the nut was not torqued and not even a thread lock. I saw that what I need to do in the future instead of checking for red dust, I need to check the torque about every 5-8k miles. If it has broken its lock, I need to remove it and add more thread lock and re torque. Ill ask Chad at Texas Adventure powersports if this is a better way to check than just waiting for visible red dust.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
I discovered the red dust on my 2015 F-3 sport after 13,000 miles two weeks ago. I ordered the pulley sprocket, bolt, washer, off of cheap cycle parts.com...ordered the loc-tite spline grease from amazon. My mechanc installed it and torqued it at 92 ft. pounds...I also installed a new kumho rear tire...as a safety precaution im going to replace the pulley, bolt and washer every two years...and also inspect the pulley at every oil change (every 5000 miles). its not expensive to replace it..as long as you catch it before it fails. This is the best way to do it...my mechanic agreed.
I discovered the red dust on my 2015 F-3 sport after 13,000 miles two weeks ago. I ordered the pulley sprocket, bolt, washer, off of cheap cycle parts.com...ordered the loc-tite spline grease from amazon. My mechanc installed it and torqued it at 92 ft. pounds...I also installed a new kumho rear tire...as a safety precaution im going to replace the pulley, bolt and washer every two years...and also inspect the pulley at every oil change (every 5000 miles). its not expensive to replace it..as long as you catch it before it fails. This is the best way to do it...my mechanic agreed.
A local rider that required needing his front pulley replaced informed me that Can Am / BRP is not recommending Loctite in the TST and provided a copy of that info. Seems some have used Loctite, ours was lubed when assembled new and has no wear. Just sharing info, not saying what is correct or better.
A local rider that required needing his front pulley replaced informed me that Can Am / BRP is not recommending Loctite in the TST and provided a copy of that info. Seems some have used Loctite, ours was lubed when assembled new and has no wear. Just sharing info, not saying what is correct or better.
I did not use the loctite 648 sealant...I used the BRP recommended moly lube spline paste so it will be easier to remove if/when it needs to replaced in the future...
I did not use the loctite 648 sealant...I used the BRP recommended moly lube spline paste so it will be easier to remove if/when it needs to replaced in the future...
You mentioned and posted you ordered Loctite, now you say you used moly lube that BRP recommends, pretty certain the BRP stuff is not moly lube. As longas you are happy, all the best with it.
I did not use the loctite 648 sealant...I used the BRP recommended moly lube spline paste so it will be easier to remove if/when it needs to replaced in the future...
That's what I used on the splines. loc-tite makes a similar spline moly grease item to that(loc-tite part# 51048) ...and that's what I used..the bolt is pre-treated with loctite already on it...just torque it down to spec...ask jcthorne..he uses that grease in his shop for sprocket replacements.
A local rider that required needing his front pulley replaced informed me that Can Am / BRP is not recommending Loctite in the TST and provided a copy of that info. Seems some have used Loctite, ours was lubed when assembled new and has no wear. Just sharing info, not saying what is correct or better.
Would you happen to have the TST number from your posted picture ??
Just got back from getting my Spyder sprocket replaced. They gave me the old sprocket. It was pretty worn and rusty. He said the part number is now different. That means they finally have upgraded the sprocket. A3BA4B14-35AF-45A8-A0E8-04BB8960552B.jpg
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
Just got back from getting my Spyder sprocket replaced. They gave me the old sprocket. It was pretty worn and rusty. He said the part number is now different. That means they finally have upgraded the sprocket. A3BA4B14-35AF-45A8-A0E8-04BB8960552B.jpg
Sorry but that is not correct. Part number 705502134 is still current for all F3 2015 to 2019 and is the same part that was installed on my very early 2015 F3 (unit number 103). There is no upgraded sprocket nor is there any problem with the sprocket. Its the installation of the sprocket that is causing the issues.
Sorry but that is not correct. Part number 705502134 is still current for all F3 2015 to 2019 and is the same part that was installed on my very early 2015 F3 (unit number 103). There is no upgraded sprocket nor is there any problem with the sprocket. Its the installation of the sprocket that is causing the issues.
I am just relaying what they said. I asked him what improvements and he did not know. I just assume that the only improvement they could make was the type of steel but I dont know. I do trust this particular dealers service and Chad who does the work. I could have gone to my local dealer in Greenville but do not trust them. I had to arrange transportation from and to Richardson in some pretty nasty weather in the middle of rush hour in Dallas.
What I will do is go take a pic of the new part and post it to compare the numbers stamped on the outside.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
I am just relaying what they said. I asked him what improvements and he did not know. I just assume that the only improvement they could make was the type of steel but I dont know. I do trust this particular dealers service and Chad who does the work. I could have gone to my local dealer in Greenville but do not trust them. I had to arrange transportation from and to Richardson in some pretty nasty weather in the middle of rush hour in Dallas.
What I will do is go take a pic of the new part and post it to compare the numbers stamped on the outside.
I just went to remove the cover and you are right, it is the same part number. 705502131, but neither one had your number of 705502134 2E768610-6FBB-47A3-B43A-C74896952F6B.jpg
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
The part number I gave is the replacement part number from the order system in a retail box. The part number stamped on the pulley is the assembly part number shipped in bulk to the factory. If you look up the part in the BRP parts system, you will get the part number I gave you above.
I know this is an old, really long, thread but figured it’s the best place for my comments. My wife’s ‘18 F3L has about 12k miles and still no sign of the dreaded red dust on the sprocket. But after reading several pages in this thread it sounds like the proper thing to do to prevent failure is at each oil change remove the bolt and sprocket to inspect, clean, and reapply spline lube with a fresh bolt. Guess I’ll do all this at her next oil change. Does that sound about right?
Oh I’ve already checked, realigned and tensioned her belt, and installed the belt tensioner from lamonster so all that should be ok.
Mine: 2016 Indian Springfield & 2021 Indian Roadmaster
Wife: 2018 Can-am Spyder F3 Limited Pearl White
...... it sounds like the proper thing to do to prevent failure is at each oil change remove the bolt and sprocket to inspect, clean, and reapply spline lube with a fresh bolt. Guess I’ll do all this at her next oil change.....
I dunno, lugnut! Bearing in mind that you're meant to change the oil once a year or at the scheduled milage, whichever comes first, and that the bolt used to hold the sprockets on is meant to be a single use bolt, replaced every time you take the sprocket off, plus the fact that removing/replacing a splined sprocket on/off a splined shaft WILL wear whichever is made of the softer metal; I'd think that changing the bolt & checking the sprocket every year or sooner (as per milage/oil change schedule) would probably be a pretty self fulfilling excercise..... Do it often enough and you WILL wear the sprocket out sooner than it would if you just inspected the sprocket without removal!
I've seen it before, sometimes on quite important and expensive pieces of kit.... Over-servicing can be just as damaging if not more so than under-servicing! So please, don't go needlessly pulling the sprocket off!
Sure, check for the red dust; check the torque on the bolt if you must (but that'll probably hurt the locktite!); maybe even take the belt off & check the sprocket for looseness on the shaft; heck, you might even take the bolt and sprocket off now (just the once!) to inspect, clean, and reapply spline lube with a fresh bolt, then leave it as is at least until there's some indication that it needs attention again! But whatever you do, don't just remove the bolt &/or sprocket every oil change just cos you've read all the doom and gloom reports here! Forums are where people come to resolve problems &/or vent about them, so the number of reports here likely doesn't reflect the reality of all the other Spyders out there with no sprocket issues at all! Besides, doing that 'every oil change' thing would almost certainly cost you a LOT more than is really warranted, and it'd very likely create more bolt/spline/sprocket issues than it'd ever resolve!
Check & inspect in situ, sure, but only remove & replace as & when necessary!
I know this is an old, really long, thread but figured it’s the best place for my comments. My wife’s ‘18 F3L has about 12k miles and still no sign of the dreaded red dust on the sprocket. But after reading several pages in this thread it sounds like the proper thing to do to prevent failure is at each oil change remove the bolt and sprocket to inspect, clean, and reapply spline lube with a fresh bolt. Guess I’ll do all this at her next oil change. Does that sound about right?
Oh I’ve already checked, realigned and tensioned her belt, and installed the belt tensioner from lamonster so all that should be ok.
My suggestion, accomplish the first front pulley inspection on your wifes F3 at 12,000 miles. If serviceable reinstall. If you see that it was assembled dry at oem, examine the splines for metal particles and wear, including the surface finish of the splines themselves.
Clean all surfaces and assemble with a moly paste. Your call on reusing the bolt or not.
To be best prepared, you might consider having a new pulley and bolt on hand if waiting for parts is a concern.
Once properly inspected and lubricated, I doubt there will be any induced wear if you inspected at each oil change or annually. If you accomplish oil changes at book recommended 9300 that could work. For comparison, I change oil at 5000 miles, so this would be a bit too frequent I believe.
Our Spyder is a 2014 and the front pulley splines had a light film of grease from oem. I accomplished the inspection and reassembly at about the midpoint to the 28,000 mile heavy inspection. That is my next planned pulley inspection. Honestly I expect no wear then. Merely a remove, clean, inspect, reassemble and go.
Y'all are right, I tend to go overboard with preventive maintenance. I can't see myself going 9k miles between oil changes, usually more like 5k, that's when my Indian is due for an oil change so doing 2 at the same time isn't bad. I've taken the pulley cover off several times and all looks fine, no red dust. But my wife reads the horror story's on facebook groups and such, keeps asking what I'm gonna do to hers to make sure it's good to go, ha. We have a big trip planned in July to travel from Mississippi to Colorado for a week on our bikes, so I'll probably do 1 extensive inspection / service on the pulley before that trip and depending on what I find then, I'll base my next inspection off of that.
Oh, and if I remember, I'll post my findings on here for the next guy to see.
Mine: 2016 Indian Springfield & 2021 Indian Roadmaster
Wife: 2018 Can-am Spyder F3 Limited Pearl White
2015 F3 SE6, checked the sprocket about 4k miles ago, was clean, checked it again yesterday: red dust. 14K miles on the odo, does this automatically mean bad sprocket or I should have a dealer take a look? I know parts are about $130, any idea on time required to replace?
Thanks for the replies
Stay safe
I think once you see the “red dust” it’s too late. The red dust is a sign of wear, so a new sprocket would be required. Yes it needs spline lube on it. Actually after I got to searching for a spline lube, there are a lot of manufacturers that use direct drive and the driveshafts are splined and require spline lube. BMW, Kawasaki, Honda, etc... although these are splines on a driveshaft, to me it’s still a rotational load on splines so to me it’s the same thing. Right?
Mine: 2016 Indian Springfield & 2021 Indian Roadmaster
Wife: 2018 Can-am Spyder F3 Limited Pearl White
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Originally Posted by Sarge707
Bearing in mind that you're meant to change the oil once a year or at the scheduled milage, whichever comes first, and that the bolt used to hold the sprockets on is meant to be a single use bolt, replaced every time you take the sprocket off, plus the fact that removing/replacing a splined sprocket on/off a splined shaft WILL wear whichever is made of the softer metal; I'd think that changing the bolt & checking the sprocket every year or sooner (as per milage/oil change schedule) would probably be a pretty self fulfilling excercise..... Do it often enough and you WILL wear the sprocket out sooner than it would if you just inspected the sprocket without removal! 
