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  1. #1
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Default F3 Front Sprocket Inspection

    Had a friend/customer loose his splines on his F3 Ltd at Spyder Adventures. We were able to verify by removing the plastic cover for the front sprocket. His did show the telltale rust around the front of the sprocket. I highly suggest that ryders periodically (ever month or so) pull that cover and look for the rust. Just looking under the byke is probably not good enough.
    What happens, the splines on the sprocket start throwing metal shavings and they appear as red rust. By pulling that cover (2 min job) it should help you to catch it before it goes completely out and you are stranded.
    My friend was very lucky and Blessed. Out of all the areas to ryde, many without cell phone reception, his grenaded (total part failure) right next to the Maggie Valley Inn at the stoplight!
    You might not be so lucky!
    I know this topic has been posted before, but to my knowledge no one has suggested pulling the inspection cover.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Agree

    when mine came loose i found out by coasting down the hill to the garage with music off engine off helmet off. There will be a gnawrly sound coming from the left side by the peg. So now every few rydes I do that little coast. I did replace the sproket bolt and washer (make sure you replace the bolt and washer) I still believe that the engine heat and high torque stretched the threads causing the bolt to loose tension...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  3. #3
    Active Member SpyderF3-s's Avatar
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    Default

    My F3 stripped out a week ago just after 6000 miles after the first one was replaced.
    This time I am having them replace the shaft and sprocket.
    God bless those who serve/served our country!

  4. #4
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default 2015

    I bought my '15 F3 in Feb. of '15, and the sprocket was trash after a few thousand miles... i also heard of a rather large number of other F3's that had the sprocket go south on them... i would have thought by now that BRP would have come up with a 'FIX' for this issue... i really am starting to wonder what their engineering department head is thinking... here's my suggestion BRP; CUSTOMER SERVICE & QUALITY PRODUCTS.... is that too much to ask...? God knows, you charge the ultimate price for your products, give us the quality that goes with that price...
    Dan P
    SPYD3R

  5. #5
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    Default

    Doc, have you heard of many F3T or Limited having this happen? I had only heard of it happening on 2015 F3 and was hoping that they had fixed the issue in 16 or 17 or on the T or Ltd. models.

    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member ABQSpyder's Avatar
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    Default

    So if there is any rust you should change sprocket!

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    Doc, have you heard of many F3T or Limited having this happen? I had only heard of it happening on 2015 F3 and was hoping that they had fixed the issue in 16 or 17 or on the T or Ltd. models.
    This was on a F3T. It had about 14-15K on it. He had pulled a trailer some of those miles. I have rode with him a lot and he probably never has tried a burnout. I *believe* that BRP has changed the number (different grade metal) for the '17 model. His was a '16.

  8. #8
    Active Member fencepost's Avatar
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    Default

    BRP needs to change the way the front pully fits on the trans main shaft. Current design the inside of the pully has a countersink that slips on the main shaft and belt alignment issues will cause uneven pressure on the front pully causing the splines and countersink to wear on the main shaft. A simple fix would be to increase the inside surface mating area with a thrust washer between the pully and main shaft.
    SpYderman

  9. #9
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    Default MY SPROCKET MAY BE TOAST!

    After reading this thread I pulled the plastic cover over the front sprocket and discovered red rust! I have an appt. with my dealer later in the week to have a ball joint replaced. Now I have this to worry about and my dealer is three hours away. I hope I can make it without my sprocket imploding! I have 23,400 miles on my ‘15 F3-S.
    2020 F3 Ltd

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    2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
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    2015 F3-S , BajaRon Plugs Can-Am Red

  10. #10
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER View Post
    After reading this thread I pulled the plastic cover over the front sprocket and discovered red rust! I have an appt. with my dealer later in the week to have a ball joint replaced. Now I have this to worry about and my dealer is three hours away. I hope I can make it without my sprocket imploding! I have 23,400 miles on my ‘15 F3-S.

    If the sprocket is still running fine, the dealer is just going to tell you there is nothing wrong. They will not replace the pulley until it fails.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  11. #11
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    Default

    Well ain’t that a b***h! I hope my dealer and BRP will work with me on this. I don’t want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere. I guess if they won’t then it will be on my dime.😱
    2020 F3 Ltd

    Spyderpops Bumpskid
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    Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
    2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
    2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
    2015 F3-S , BajaRon Plugs Can-Am Red

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER View Post
    Well ain’t that a b***h! I hope my dealer and BRP will work with me on this. I don’t want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere. I guess if they won’t then it will be on my dime.😱
    2015+2016 had the different (softer) setup. They revised the number in 2017. I am assuming the pulley was made harder. Different part number.

  13. #13
    Active Member acpd22's Avatar
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    Default Good to Go

    Just went and checked mine (2016 F3 Limited) and everything appeared normal. No signs of rust, just some road grime.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member JKMSPYDER's Avatar
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    Default Roadster Renovations & jcthorne

    Could rust on the sprocket mean normal wear and tear or would this be a sign of eventual failure? I’m curious if any F3 owners know for sure.
    2020 F3 Ltd

    Spyderpops Bumpskid
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    Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
    2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
    2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
    2015 F3-S , BajaRon Plugs Can-Am Red

  15. #15
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by acpd22 View Post
    Just went and checked mine (2016 F3 Limited) and everything appeared normal. No signs of rust, just some road grime.
    Just out of curiosity, how many miles?

  16. #16
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default WHERE?

    Does anyone know the two different Part Numbers of the old & new sprocket...? and which is which....? and where is that number located....?
    Dan P
    SPYD3R

  17. #17
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Suggestion....

    If you are inspecting them...and are there anyway....check to make sure they are still at the torque repquiered for your model. What will make them start to go is the slop as they loosen and as you downshift and throttle up they hammer at the splines. You have less control on the semi-automatics so they hammer harder. It will not be loose to the touch but a few pounds off will do it....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    If you are inspecting them...and are there anyway....check to make sure they are still at the torque repquiered for your model. What will make them start to go is the slop as they loosen and as you downshift and throttle up they hammer at the splines. You have less control on the semi-automatics so they hammer harder. It will not be loose to the touch but a few pounds off will do it....
    Gene, what about Loctite? I guess if it's already broken the seal, should be reapplied? Or not?

  19. #19
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default True....

    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations View Post
    Gene, what about Loctite? I guess if it's already broken the seal, should be reapplied? Or not?
    You could go all the way and remove the bolt and apply locktite once again but to those who are going to the dealer far aways a re-torque will hold you. I ran mine for a week and all was good till my parts came in. I would say if the torque is off and you are not taking it in. Like Doc said re apply locktite and torque her down.,, good catch Doc...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  20. #20
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    when mine came loose i found out by coasting down the hill to the garage with music off engine off helmet off. There will be a gnawrly sound coming from the left side by the peg. So now every few rydes I do that little coast. I did replace the sproket bolt and washer (make sure you replace the bolt and washer) I still believe that the engine heat and high torque stretched the threads causing the bolt to loose tension...
    You should ride slower--no acceleration above 3K rpm, & convert to chain drive--two (2) chains.
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

  21. #21
    Active Member always young's Avatar
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    Default Loose bolt!

    After reading about this I'll keep an eye on it, but my bike is still new with less than 1k miles on it. One thought though. Since BRP also builds aircraft, I wonder if the department's talk to each other. They use lockwire all over aircraft, why not use it here? Any A&P mechanic would tell you that! It would prevent the bolt from loosening. Could it be applied here by US? I don't know as I haven't taken my cover off yet to look at it. Just a thought.

  22. #22
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Default Hmmmm

    Discussed this with Rocky at Coyote powersports in Boerne. He says the problem is belts too tight, and that the bolt is a one time use. Showed us the service bulletin moving the tension down. Went out and checked SpyderAnn’s F3T, and hers is even lower than the bulletin requires. Hers was just serviced las week. But, with the lower tension, and Doc’s belt tensioner, it rides vibration free!! So, still sciencing all this out. We will keep an eye on this.
    Meanwhile, the rally is ramping up in the hills of Texas!!
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  23. #23
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SPYD3R View Post
    Does anyone know the two different Part Numbers of the old & new sprocket...? and which is which....? and where is that number located....?
    Dan P
    SPYD3R
    Dan, since no one had answered your question I had a few minutes this morning and I pulled some data from Cheap Cycle Parts (good resource). Evidently, there was not a part number change from 15 & 16 to 17. Same number shows up. 705502134. I was surprised at the cost ($105.00) and the bolt was $9.99 705502292. Since it is the same part number I may carry a couple to events with bolts and loctite. Since the deductible is $50, that is not much considering getting stranded somewhere, the tow bill to the shop, then the waiting time for them to get parts and get to it. This is very possible. Have to figure out what would be needed: jack, impact, torque wrench, etc. etc. It would be tough to do on the side of the road without a trailer to carry the jack, etc., but it certainly could be done at an event we would be vending.

    If I would be dragging the trailer I would carry supplies to do this on the road.

  24. #24
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptjam View Post
    Discussed this with Rocky at Coyote powersports in Boerne. He says the problem is belts too tight, and that the bolt is a one time use. Showed us the service bulletin moving the tension down. Went out and checked SpyderAnn’s F3T, and hers is even lower than the bulletin requires. Hers was just serviced las week. But, with the lower tension, and Doc’s belt tensioner, it rides vibration free!! So, still sciencing all this out. We will keep an eye on this.
    Meanwhile, the rally is ramping up in the hills of Texas!!
    Wish we were there!! Many ryders have believed that the belt torque was too high on this and what the tech told you makes perfect sense. It is kinda cool that we can now drop the down and the Vibration Damper keeps them from vibrating!!

    Burrr, it was 41 degrees this morning on my ryde over to Planet Fitness.

  25. #25
    Very Active Member zuni's Avatar
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    Default

    Hopefully this won't be the story that never ends. No doubt increasing numbers and repeated failures will cause a hit to resale (okay even more than we have already taken). I am a dual repeater. Each failure after about 8,000 miles and in both cases the bolt was still torqued tight. I had looked at the part number for the sprocket before and thought that a new number superseded that of '15 & '16. Will need to go back and check my notes after seeing the above post. After the first failure I was concerned about the shaft. We checked the play of the new sprocket on the shaft and then put the same sprocket on a new transmission and they were identical. After the second failure my transmission was replaced. The first failure there were loads of shavings visible below the sprocket. I thought I was feeling the same vibration the second time but when I looked under the bike there were no shavings. Guess I should have pulled the cover but I thought maybe I was imagining it and just gun shy from the previous failure.

    I would love to know the cause for sure but kind of agree with a previous post about how it fits (or doesn't) the shaft. I asked a lot of questions and collected data from other owners trying to narrow down a cause but nothing is immediately obvious. I collected model, serial number, miles, and model year. I thought early build but the serial numbers didn't support it and then it started happening with the 2016's. Thought maybe something about the sprocket setup on the F3 and F3s but then the F3t started having the issue and it has a different swing arm setup. I love my Spyder and have been happy with both my dealer and BRP's response and immediate attention but it would increase my comfort level for long term ownership if something could be identified.

    For now I have a couple of thousand miles on my new sprocket and replacement transmission and my fingers crossed.

    CJ JAX

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