-
Active Member
-
Active Member
I continue to read the threads here as I am somewhat new to the Spyder world. I think its really amazing that more shops than not APPEAR to not have qualified techs to work on this machine. This does not exactly inspire confidence to own long term.
-
SpyderLovers Sponsor
I agree !!! that is why I do 99% of all my mechanical maintenance and service
I flat refuse to pay $250.00 to have my oil changed. I can do mine in 30 min.
Oh by the way I have a 1 ton duly service truck, I can have it serviced 7 times
for $250.00.... enough said
Originally Posted by Samson
I continue to read the threads here as I am somewhat new to the Spyder world. I think its really amazing that more shops than not APPEAR to not have qualified techs to work on this machine. This does not exactly inspire confidence to own long term.
-
Driveshaft?
Originally Posted by SpyderF3-s
In April the front sprocket stripped out and had to be replaced. (long story on that repair!) Last week I heard some grinding when engine braking. Took it to my local dealer and he said that the other dealer did not put lock-tight on the bolt that holds the sprocket on and it has started to strip that sprocket and drive shaft. Local dealer said I have to take it back to the other dealer and recommended drive shaft and sprocket to be replaced!
Last sprocket repair took a month! Image how long it will take if they have to replace the drive shaft!!!
Going to be another month or two without my Spyder and fighting with the dealer to get it repaired under warranty!
Pardon my curiosity, but what driveshaft? I am familiar with such driveshafts as can be found on the Gold Wing and BMW. But was not aware of a similar driveshaft on a Spyder. I know the RT-SE5 has an Aramid belt.
-
Very Active Member
Me thinks he's referring to the output shaft on the engine.
On the road again...........and forever young!
2013 RT-S SE 5
Yesterday is a cancelled check.
Tomorrow is a promissory note.
Today is cash.......spend it wisely.
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by Samson
I continue to read the threads here as I am somewhat new to the Spyder world. I think its really amazing that more shops than not APPEAR to not have qualified techs to work on this machine. This does not exactly inspire confidence to own long term.
BRP made a tactical error when they decided to distribute Spyders through the network that was already selling other off road BRP vehicles-Snow mobiles, jet skis, ATV's. The difference in service requirements has plagued Spyder owners ever since. It is what keeps someone like me from moving up to new models, since after 10 years I kind of know what to do with the 104th Spyder ever built. Most of what I know I learned here. After 10 years you would hope that Spyder dealers had learned how to service them but I personally have not had that experience.
-
Originally Posted by Samson
I continue to read the threads here as I am somewhat new to the Spyder world. I think its really amazing that more shops than not APPEAR to not have qualified techs to work on this machine. This does not exactly inspire confidence to own long term.
Samson, I am under the impression that the Spyder Dealer in Prescott Valley is a good and knowledgeable dealer.
Love that area of Arizona, used to live in Show Low.
Dean O
Gran Pa Hoon
Founder San Jose BMW
Builder of the Motorcyclist Cafe Barn and Bunkhouse
Alamogordo, NM
'20 Spyder F3 L
-
Very Active Member
Bummer....
Sorry to hear of your reoccurance plus complications. Long waits and poor workmanship seems to be happening in the big multibrand dealers who have techs with little interest in the spyders. I saw this at a dealer I worked at when Honda started servicing outboard motors. The techs would pick up the workorders and set them aside while the worked on bikes. BRP is also known to have poor stock in parts. I had the same issue with the sproket coming loose ( I think the holding bolt stretched) but as I do my own work and it is not covered as a wear item I ordered my parts from cheapcyclepart.com and had them in three days for under 100.00 bucks for the sprocket bolt and washer (recommended to be changed hope they did) and changed it out and back on the road in four days. I do they will get to it cause now they have to pull the engine and trasmission apart to change the output shaft....
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
-
Very Active Member
I have heard of some dealers changing the whole transmission if the output shaft is bad.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
-
Active Member
Shaft and sprocket stripped!
I contacted BRP and they agreed that I can use my local dealer to do the repair. Dealer said that the entire engine and transmission will need to be removed to replace the shaft. Hopefully it will last longer than 6000 miles like the previous repair!!!
spyder sprocket.jpg
God bless those who serve/served our country!
-
Active Member
Repair Update
The local shop checked the shaft and said that it was within specs. They will be installing a new sprocket ending in part number 2134. Should have it back with in the 10 days. This is the second replacement sprocket. Time will tell how long this one will last (Original - 28,000 miles, first replacement - 6000 miles).
God bless those who serve/served our country!
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderF3-s
The local shop checked the shaft and said that it was within specs. They will be installing a new sprocket ending in part number 2134. Should have it back with in the 10 days. This is the second replacement sprocket. Time will tell how long this one will last (Original - 28,000 miles, first replacement - 6000 miles).
I find it odd that now that they (local shop) are doing the repair it only needs the sprocket. When at first they told you it would need an output shaft as well!
'15 F3-S Pure Magnesium Metallic - Mad Max Edition
'15 Mclaren 650S Coupe - Aurora Blue
"You Were Really Flyin', When I Passed You Back There!"
Chuck
2015 F3-S , Pure Magnesium Metallic/Steel Black Metallic
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderF3-s
The local shop checked the shaft and said that it was within specs. They will be installing a new sprocket ending in part number 2134. Should have it back with in the 10 days. This is the second replacement sprocket. Time will tell how long this one will last (Original - 28,000 miles, first replacement - 6000 miles).
You might want to tell them what Kenny Butler has suggested and does. He has yet to have one come back. (Kenny is a certified Spyder tech in Florida) He uses this:
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Quick...tal+gap+filler
If there are any irregularities in the shaft, this will fill in the areas. I am now thinking this is the only way to go on this. He lets it set up for 24 hours before putting any torque on it.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderF3-s
The local shop checked the shaft and said that it was within specs. They will be installing a new sprocket ending in part number 2134. Should have it back with in the 10 days. This is the second replacement sprocket. Time will tell how long this one will last (Original - 28,000 miles, first replacement - 6000 miles).
Within spec eh? I wonder what spec that was?
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
-
Very Active Member
My question to the dealer who said it was within specs would be, "How did you make that determination"? Did they use a "Go/No Go" gauge? Did they mic the splines over pins? Or did they use a ball mic? What is the tolerance and did they mic more than just one or two places? The Loc-Tite product looks like it would be very helpful. The splines would need to be just shy of an interference fit or wear could occur very rapidly, especially if one part was much softer than the other.
Last edited by BoilerAnimal; 11-03-2017 at 11:00 PM.
On the road again...........and forever young!
2013 RT-S SE 5
Yesterday is a cancelled check.
Tomorrow is a promissory note.
Today is cash.......spend it wisely.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BoilerAnimal
My question to the dealer who said it was within specs would be, "How did you make that determination"? Did they use a "Go/No Go" gauge? Did they mic the splines over pins? Or did they use a ball mic? What is the tolerance and did they mic more than just one or two places? The Loc-Tite product looks like it would be very helpful. The splines would need to be just shy of an interference fit or wear could occur very rapidly, especially if one part was much softer than the other.
That's the long form of my short question above yours.
The short answer will be: it looked ok (in dim light) and it felt ok with the bolt tightened.
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
-
Active Member
I was reading another threat following this issue and it someone had mentioned about the sprocket being installed backwards. If you look at the picture you will notice no part number! That means it was installed backwards by the dealer that fixed it the first time! Glad I had a different shop work on it this timespyder sprocket.jpg
God bless those who serve/served our country!
-
Very Active Member
Maybe they need to additionally engrave/imprint it with This side OUT...<G> though the part number was probably intended to indicate the outboard side...<G>
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020 |
|
-
And it'll be more of the same....
Originally Posted by Chupaca
Sorry to hear of your reoccurance plus complications. Long waits and poor workmanship seems to be happening in the big multibrand dealers who have techs with little interest in the spyders. I saw this at a dealer I worked at when Honda started servicing outboard motors. The techs would pick up the workorders and set them aside while the worked on bikes. BRP is also known to have poor stock in parts. I had the same issue with the sproket coming loose ( I think the holding bolt stretched) but as I do my own work and it is not covered as a wear item I ordered my parts from cheapcyclepart.com and had them in three days for under 100.00 bucks for the sprocket bolt and washer (recommended to be changed hope they did) and changed it out and back on the road in four days. I do they will get to it cause now they have to pull the engine and trasmission apart to change the output shaft....
If a main dealer's engineer cannot correctly fit a sprocket to a shaft then I'm damned if I'd let them strip a motor! Can you imagine what horrendous consequences may occur if it's not done "by the book"? I wouldn't let this guy work on a lawn mower never mind a road vehicle.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|