As the Spyder comes from the factory, the only real adjustments you can make are toe in/out & if you got the adjustable pre-load spring/shocks, you might be able to fiddle with that a bit & change the static ride height a little too. And like Ann said (& she should - & does, know!) fitting a different sway bar won't have ANY impact on your alignment in any way - well, not unless you fitted it with a pile-driver & a thermal-lance welder!!

Actually, here's a thought Wrongway, does your Spyder have that screw adjust for the spring pre-load on your front shocks?? If it does, is there ANY chance that they are not adjusted equally side to side?? If the left hand shock has more spring pre-load than the right, your Spyder will be leaning a little to the right & loading up the inside of that RH wheel more.... Quick & dirty check, park your Spyder on a patch of level concrete, then using a large square sat vertically on the ground alongside each wheel so that it's short leg sticks straight out from the hub & the long leg is pushed up hard against the tire where it hits the ground & the rest stands up vertically alongside the wheel, check to see if the gap between the vertival leg & the wheel is identical on both sides. It could show that your wheels are angled IN at the top, or OUT at the top, but they should be close to identical or you'll get wear like that you've described! I'd expect to see the RH side has a greater lean in at the top than the LH side... And to fix it, you'll need to adjust the OPPOSITE side shock preload, ie, if the RH inner tire is worn on the inside edge & the top of that tire is angled in more, then you'd expect to need to slacken off the pre-load tension on the LH shock a little; but like I said, this is a quick & dirty check & an even dirtier fix! And it won't necessarily fix the worn tread problem at all, certainly not in less than about 5000 miles!

You really need to check the wheel alignment properly, get the spring/shock pre-load matched, and check the front end & suspension carefully for worn parts or damage, bent arms, etc - oh, & get a new set of tires!! Yes, you can continue to run that tire until the tread is worn down a bit more, but now that it's worn unevenly it's probably going to take at least twice as long to even the wear up As it took to show up this bad wear, & that's only IF you get everything corrected now - and all the while you are trying to wear that tire flat may be compromising your safety & handling on the road! The tire is worn unevenly, it won't necessarily respond evenly or the way you expect it to if you hit a patch of water or a surface with uneven grip... are you prepared to risk your life & safety as well as that of the road users around you - and now you KNOW that tire is compromised, continuing to run it could well be considered cuplable if things turn for the worst!