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Active Member
Got my new tires
Finally got my new tires. Now to find the time to get everything to the dealer to get them installed.IMG_3229.jpgIMG_3230.jpg
Kuhmo for the rear and Federals for the front.
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Very Active Member
NEW TIRES
Originally Posted by ARNIE R
Finally got my new tires. Now to find the time to get everything to the dealer to get them installed. IMG_3229.jpgIMG_3230.jpg
Kuhmo for the rear and Federals for the front.
If you keep the Kumho tire at 17 -18 psi you get a better ride and it will work better in the wet ......... Mike
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
If you keep the Kumho tire at 17 -18 psi you get a better ride and it will work better in the wet ......... Mike
If you are doing a lot of long hot miles, you might want to run the Kumho on the rear maybe a pound or two higher (max 20 psi) so that it doesn't balloon when it gets hot & give you the same wear pattern as that we see on the Kendas, but if you aren't running in 85F plus ambient temps all the time, then as Mike says, you will probably get the best traction, ride, handling, and braking from 18ish psi back there - you can use the 4psi rule to check that you are close to optimal pressure, or check for even temp increases across the face of the tire tread. Hot strips of tread indicate incorrect pressures - hotter strips on both the edges = pressures too low; hot strips on one edge indicates an alignment issue; a hot band down the middle indicates pressures that are too high!
When we aren't running in 35-45C plus ambient temps thru summer or I'm not ryding 1000km each day, I run 16-18 psi in my 225/60R15 Kumho Ecsta on the rear & I am expectibg to get 30,000 km plus milage of virtually unparalleled all seasons traction & handling as well as longevity - traction & handling that's likely only going to be exceeded in the dry by a dry weather performance tire like the Yoko's that others recommend. What those may gain in traction over the Kumhos at the right pressure they tend to lose in tread longevity, & I can live with the marginally less traction the Kumhos provide for the substantially greater tire life they return - but then we also can't get many of the Federals & Michelins etc in sizes that fit that you all get over there!
Oh, & the Kumhos excel at those lower pressures in the wet!! My skid pan braking tests showed about 1/3rd BETTER braking distances in the wet from the Kumhos at that pressure than we got from them at the same pressure in the dry!! Dropping another pound or two made the handling a bit doughy & steering a bit loose, but improved traction and braking distances (especially on the wet) even more! Adding a couple of pounds over 22psi & the wet braking distances went out by something over 1/2 again extra distance, and virtually guaranteed understeer & hydro-planing on barely wet roads!! It's a juggling act, but the more you put in to getting things right, the better your tires will look after you!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Looks like a good combination. Post a review of their performance next time.
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Very Active Member
I have the exact same tires on Cocaine, and you should see a noticeable improvement in your handling on turns, and because of this, your speed in the twisties will be much faster. I run the rear at 20lbs and the fronts at 18-19lbs. Works for me.
Current Ride
2015 RT-S SM6 Cocaine
Pearl White
Diamond R Web Armrests
Shorty Windshield
Previous Ride
2012 RT SM5 The Beast
Pure Magnesium Metallic
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Very Active Member
MAGGIE VALLEY
Originally Posted by Bam Bam and Pebbles
I have the exact same tires on Cocaine, and you should see a noticeable improvement in your handling on turns, and because of this, your speed in the twisties will be much faster. I run the rear at 20lbs and the fronts at 18-19lbs. Works for me.
Will I see you again this year ??????????? Mike
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2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
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Well gee, thanks guys. It depends on the weather. Not sure but I would like to get up there. If I do I will be looking for both of you. Where you guys staying?
Current Ride
2015 RT-S SM6 Cocaine
Pearl White
Diamond R Web Armrests
Shorty Windshield
Previous Ride
2012 RT SM5 The Beast
Pure Magnesium Metallic
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Very Active Member
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One quick question - when I pull the back wheel off and deliver it and the new tire to the dealership, do I also need to remove the center hub or belt pulley for them or can they install the new tire with those parts still in place?
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
^^ If they aren't up to speed on Spyders, it's probably best if you pull the hub & pulley & the rubber blocks (if you can!) But make surdd you take pics or mark things so you know how it goes back together properly!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Very Active Member
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Active Member
Boy, I am frosted!
I took my new tires and old ones in to the dealership today and was asked "are these car tires?"
Yes, I said. Then tried to explain the better properties and characteristics of the "car" tires and how well they are liked and how the Kenda's are despised worse than a used car salesman.
No deal, liability issues with their "contract" with BRP, etc. Even after the service manager said they would do it.
I tried a few car tire places and they wouldn't touch them.
Finally went to a local car repair service that I had used for service on my Ford truck and the guy measures something on the rims and says they can do it, so, I am crossing my fingers and hoping that they can successfully complete this task without trashing the rims.
On a side note, removing the rear tire did not happen to be as difficult as I had thought it might be.
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Very Active Member
CAR TIRES & SPYDERS
[QUOTE=ARNIE R;1307685]Boy, I am frosted!
I took my new tires and old ones in to the dealership today and was asked "are these car tires?"
Yes, I said. Then tried to explain the better properties and characteristics of the "car" tires and how well they are liked and how the Kenda's are despised worse than a used car salesman.
No deal, liability issues with their "contract" with BRP, etc. Even after the service manager said they would do it.
I tried a few car tire places and they wouldn't touch them.
Finally went to a local car repair service that I had used for service on my Ford truck and the guy measures something on the rims and says they can do it, so, I am crossing my fingers and hoping that they can successfully complete this task without trashing the rims.
On a side note, removing the rear tire did not happen to be as difficult as I had thought it might be.[/QUO . Spyder rims / wheels are Auto type rims .....not Motorcycle wheels .... plenty of Dealers I know of will mount Car tires if you sign a waiver..... I'll bet 95% of all Spyders Dealers ....DON'T DO THE TIRE CHANGE - anyway I don't think those expensive tire changing machines can DO MTC wheels any way .........jmho ... Mike
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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
If you are doing a lot of long hot miles, you might want to run the Kumho on the rear maybe a pound or two higher (max 20 psi) so that it doesn't balloon when it gets hot & give you the same wear pattern as that we see on the Kendas, but if you aren't running in 85F plus ambient temps all the time, then as Mike says, you will probably get the best traction, ride, handling, and braking from 18ish psi back there - you can use the 4psi rule to check that you are close to optimal pressure, or check for even temp increases across the face of the tire tread. Hot strips of tread indicate incorrect pressures - hotter strips on both the edges = pressures too low; hot strips on one edge indicates an alignment issue; a hot band down the middle indicates pressures that are too high!
When we aren't running in 35-45C plus ambient temps thru summer or I'm not ryding 1000km each day, I run 16-18 psi in my 225/60R15 Kumho Ecsta on the rear & I am expectibg to get 30,000 km plus milage of virtually unparalleled all seasons traction & handling as well as longevity - traction & handling that's likely only going to be exceeded in the dry by a dry weather performance tire like the Yoko's that others recommend. What those may gain in traction over the Kumhos at the right pressure they tend to lose in tread longevity, & I can live with the marginally less traction the Kumhos provide for the substantially greater tire life they return - but then we also can't get many of the Federals & Michelins etc in sizes that fit that you all get over there!
Oh, & the Kumhos excel at those lower pressures in the wet!! My skid pan braking tests showed about 1/3rd BETTER braking distances in the wet from the Kumhos at that pressure than we got from them at the same pressure in the dry!! Dropping another pound or two made the handling a bit doughy & steering a bit loose, but improved traction and braking distances (especially on the wet) even more! Adding a couple of pounds over 22psi & the wet braking distances went out by something over 1/2 again extra distance, and virtually guaranteed understeer & hydro-planing on barely wet roads!! It's a juggling act, but the more you put in to getting things right, the better your tires will look after you!
Peter: Have you ever used Dina Beads to balance your rear tire? Neil
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ARNIE R
Boy, I am frosted!
I took my new tires and old ones in to the dealership today and was asked "are these car tires?"
Yes, I said. Then tried to explain the better properties and characteristics of the "car" tires and how well they are liked and how the Kenda's are despised worse than a used car salesman.
No deal, liability issues with their "contract" with BRP, etc. Even after the service manager said they would do it.
I tried a few car tire places and they wouldn't touch them.
Finally went to a local car repair service that I had used for service on my Ford truck and the guy measures something on the rims and says they can do it, so, I am crossing my fingers and hoping that they can successfully complete this task without trashing the rims.
On a side note, removing the rear tire did not happen to be as difficult as I had thought it might be.
A common issue for those using non-OEM. You have to look around to get someone to do it for you. I have a dealer who thinks exactly the same as above. Being un-mechanical and lazy--I let the dealer put OEM's on. Over 5 different Spyders, I get 20K plus on the fronts and about 15K on the rears. One exception--soft rubber compound on my 2014--got 8,900 on the rear one.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 10-10-2017 at 02:43 PM.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by Neil Rupp
Peter: Have you ever used Dina Beads to balance your rear tire? Neil
Not on a Spyder Neil, never needed to!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by akspyderman
A common issue for those using non-OEM. You have to look around to get someone to do it for you. I have a dealer who thinks exactly the same as above. Being un-mechanical and lazy--I let the dealer put OEM's on. Over 5 different Spyders, I get 20K plus on the fronts and about 15K on the rears. One exception--soft rubber compound on my 2014--got 8,900 on the rear one.
Yeah, I'm probably going to go OEM Kenda's when my tire-change time comes. I don't feel like spending a lot of time sniffing out a dealer/shop that will service my need for non-OEM tires, and me ending up having to do a lot of the work myself and lying about what the rims/tires are going to be used on.
It seems that I recall that someone on the Forum had a conversation with a BRP Rep at some event, and the Rep said there was NO contract obligation between BRP and Dealers to use OEM tires. It seems that someone ain't telling the truth....either the Rep or the Dealers.
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The drama continues,,,,
Today, I went to the repair shop to check on my tires. Both fronts were outside heating up in the sun as the outside beads had still not seated all the way around. I told the tech that based upon what I had read, he might have to pressure them up to about 80 plus PSI, sure enough, about at 85, bang, they seated all the way around.
The rear tire, surprisingly, went on far more easily. Tech just pulled the sprocket off and had no issues with it going on successfully.
So, I cart the tires off to the dealer to be balanced, since I didn't think the repair shop had the proper eqiupment to do an MC type wheel (did not bother asking, stupid me)
The Can-Am dealer takes a look, checks with the service guy who says no way will they touch them since they did not install them. More liability issues. O-kayyy.......
I call back the repair shop and inquire about balancing, which they say they can do only on the fronts because the rear needs to be stripped of all extra parts in order to be able (hopefully) on the balance machine. Back home I go and strip the back wheel clean. Back to the shop and drop it off.
Hopefully, all of this will be fixed tomorrow.............
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Kuhmo
Arnie: I'm curious on how the Kuhmo rides being it's a very low profile tire. Neil
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Active Member
Finally, the end (I hope)
My repair shop got the fronts balanced without issues, however, they could not do the back wheel even though I had removed the hub and bearing. The hole was just too small to fit on the balance machine.
Surprisingly, the guy offered to take it himself to another local shop in town that had other balancing machines and this one could not get it to fit either. I was about to tell him that I would go ahead and try to locate another generic motorcycle shop somewhere, but he again said to let him try one more place. So he takes it again to another local shop and this one has another balance machine with a smaller shaft. It fits!
He brings it back to me and home I go with it. Don't know too many shops, if any, that would go thru this much bother and offer to get the work done at two of his competitor's shops to get it done. I was most happy.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ARNIE R
Finally, the end (I hope)
My repair shop got the fronts balanced without issues, however, they could not do the back wheel even though I had removed the hub and bearing. The hole was just too small to fit on the balance machine.
Surprisingly, the guy offered to take it himself to another local shop in town that had other balancing machines and this one could not get it to fit either. I was about to tell him that I would go ahead and try to locate another generic motorcycle shop somewhere, but he again said to let him try one more place. So he takes it again to another local shop and this one has another balance machine with a smaller shaft. It fits!
He brings it back to me and home I go with it. Don't know too many shops, if any, that would go thru this much bother and offer to get the work done at two of his competitor's shops to get it done. I was most happy.
You found a good one.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Active Member
Finally got my first ride on the new tires today - did about 150 miles.
Impressive compared to the Kendas. The engine sounded louder probably because the tires were a little quieter. They handled well and felt smooth - even my mirrors had almost no vibration. Did one 4 mile run at 75 mph and one very short burst up to 86 and all felt very good. Still a wee bit twitchy on some of the curves, but a attribute this to them being new and stiff and will most likely loosen up as the miles increase.
Ran the pressures at 18 front and 20 rear but this will probably need a bit of tweaking as I ride more.
Think I will keep the Spyder a little longer now.............
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Very Active Member
STRIPPING OFF THE HUB
Originally Posted by ARNIE R
The drama continues,,,,
Today, I went to the repair shop to check on my tires. Both fronts were outside heating up in the sun as the outside beads had still not seated all the way around. I told the tech that based upon what I had read, he might have to pressure them up to about 80 plus PSI, sure enough, about at 85, bang, they seated all the way around.
The rear tire, surprisingly, went on far more easily. Tech just pulled the sprocket off and had no issues with it going on successfully.
So, I cart the tires off to the dealer to be balanced, since I didn't think the repair shop had the proper eqiupment to do an MC type wheel (did not bother asking, stupid me)
The Can-Am dealer takes a look, checks with the service guy who says no way will they touch them since they did not install them. More liability issues. O-kayyy.......
I call back the repair shop and inquire about balancing, which they say they can do only on the fronts because the rear needs to be stripped of all extra parts in order to be able (hopefully) on the balance machine. Back home I go and strip the back wheel clean. Back to the shop and drop it off.
Hopefully, all of this will be fixed tomorrow.............
As far as " Rear needs to be stripped " ....that's HOOEY .... because the newest BRP wheels have the HUB Permanently attached !!!!! and tire shops are not having any issue with it ...... I've seen people here having them done at Walmartr and Costco !!!!......... Mike
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