Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil

[dsteve931]

Mobil 1 4T is great in bikes i have used it for years in Honda s Kaw s, Triumphs & now Spyder w/ 998 SE5, great shifts never a problem-gotta be 4T

[stevencovert]

I still run an oil analysis after each change and I was not happy with the shearing of the BRP oil, so I went to the M1 4T. The oil does take a beating in the transmission which causes the shear of the viscosity, but in the M1 4T the shearing was less. Let me find the threads in the 1330 section and post the link.

I read SOO many forums about this topic, as my first oil change on my 1330 was upon me. 90%+ all said M1 4T ; many said the "factory" bottles performed poorer on the analysis across many brands.

[Wildrice]

....Be careful, Mobile #1 has many different types ...and they ARE all labeled MOBILE #1 .... you need the one that's motorcycle specific and OK for wet clutch application ..... Mike

I online ordered 6 qts of Mobile 1 4T from Advanced autoparts which showed a 25% discount code. After the order went through I noticed zero discount. I called their phone number & they said if I would click on the oil photo it would show no discount on oil products. Anyway they escalated the phone call & allowed the 25% discount on home delivery of the 6 qts for a net cost of $9.06/ qt to keep me a happy customer. Isn't life great I'm saving the extra discount should we ever have lunch together. What a guy I am---huh ???
Darrell

[WackyDan]

Is the Mobil 1 High Mileage rated for wet clutch use? Most automotive oils are not. (JASO rating)

That is the rub. I used Mobil 1 4t in my GS for about 10k miles. Two things made me change to Amsoil...

1. Two or Three owners who also ran the 4T started experiencing slipping clutches and it was blamed on the 4T.
2. Mobil had changed the rating on the 4T at some point, hence why some owners and mechanics were blaming the clutch issues on the oil

Bonus reason... Changing oil brand was way cheaper than replacing a clutch due to using an oil no longer rated for your machine.

Now, that was at least four years back and haven't heard much else on it. It might have been a simple labeling issue. I never had a problem with the 4T and I liked that it was readily available at my local autoparts store.

[Wildrice]

That is the rub. I used Mobil 1 4t in my GS for about 10k miles. Two things made me change to Amsoil...

1. Two or Three owners who also ran the 4T started experiencing slipping clutches and it was blamed on the 4T.
2. Mobil had changed the rating on the 4T at some point, hence why some owners and mechanics were blaming the clutch issues on the oil

Bonus reason... Changing oil brand was way cheaper than replacing a clutch due to using an oil no longer rated for your machine.

Now, that was at least four years back and haven't heard much else on it. It might have been a simple labeling issue. I never had a problem with the 4T and I liked that it was readily available at my local autoparts store.

I know a mechanic that says the above is true---he also says the Mobile Twin cylinder oil was not required to make that chemical change--the mechanic is fairly knowledgeable on this via connections that control the chemical make up of Mobile 1 4T---something to do with EPA required the modification approx 4-5 yrs ago . Don't shoot the messenger...

[Easy Rider]

That is why I came on this website for help. Thank You.

Glad to be useful once in a while.

[Sarge707]

The M1 4T also has the JASO rating:

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/m...motorcycle-oil

ALL I know is when I used Mobil 1 in my 2009 GS I had problems ? Castrol Rs4T is Jaso 2 and about 40,000 miles in 3 machines with excellent results?

[Easy Rider]

ALL I know is when I used Mobil 1 in my 2009 GS I had problems ?

This is a confusing statement UNLESS you include which kind of Mobil 1 that you used.
There are several.

[SPYD3R]

i just did a search for MOBIL 1, T4 motor oil.... and got this page... great info guys/gals....
my local Walmarts just now started carrying MOBIL 1 T4, after requesting it for years, and hearing the sales people tell me that many people have requested this product... so they now have it, and i'd like to ask: is $9.97 per quart the 'going price' for this oil....????
20171027_124258.jpg
Dan P
SPYD3R

[Easy Rider]

is $9.97 per quart the 'going price' for this oil....????

Probably. The last time I bought some, a couple of years back, it was a bit over $8 at Auto Zone.
If they end up selling much at your Wally World the price might come down some.

[Grandpot]

You aren't getting the point; actually there are two DIFFERENT points.

It is OK on the wet clutch compatibility but it has extra additives that can actually make a healthy engine wear faster......like the valve guide seals and some gaskets.

Mobil 1 has a FINE motorcycle oil. Why not just use THAT instead of taking the chance on something designed for old, worn engines ????

Makes no sense to me.

I'm not sure what point I missed.

This is what I said, "Look at the circle with the ratings of the oil. If it says Resource Conserving, it will not work well with wet clutches. Mobil 1 High Mileage does not have the Resource Conserving rating. I have been using it in my Valkyrie for over 100K miles and it works fine."

Actually it's closer to 120K on the Valkyrie. No sign of worn engine performance. Doesn't require a drop of oil to refill between changes. Been using it for the entire life of the engine. It works for me.

Exactly how would an oil designed for old engines cause wear only on new engines?

[billybovine]

That is the rub. I used Mobil 1 4t in my GS for about 10k miles. Two things made me change to Amsoil...

1. Two or Three owners who also ran the 4T started experiencing slipping clutches and it was blamed on the 4T.
2. Mobil had changed the rating on the 4T at some point, hence why some owners and mechanics were blaming the clutch issues on the oil

Bonus reason... Changing oil brand was way cheaper than replacing a clutch due to using an oil no longer rated for your machine.

Now, that was at least four years back and haven't heard much else on it. It might have been a simple labeling issue. I never had a problem with the 4T and I liked that it was readily available at my local autoparts store.

The issue for a 998 engine is the warning that API SM rated oil cannot be used or it will cause clutch damage. Clearly stated in the owners manual for all models with a 998 engine. Mobil 1 changed their formula in the 4T to meet the SM rating and some folks had slipping clutches. I also got caught on my 09 when I bought into the chant from the Rottela T6 cult members and did a fill of that oil. My clutch started slipping. Again a API oil rating of SM.

The OP has a 2015 RT. It has a 1330 engine. Now the models with a 1330 engine do not have a warning about SM rated oil in the owners manual. So there should be no concern about using Mobil 4T or Rottela T6 5W40.

In regard to Rottela T6. Often folks recommend it for use in their Spyder. Here in Canada there are 2 viscosities of T6 available. 5W40 shows on the label that is can be used in a motorcycle. 0W40 does not and therefore should not be used in your Spyder.

[classicvw]

Yes they do ... it's MONEY ...... BRP's oil has been sent to Labs for testing by many, many members here and the verdict was .... there are a lot of other readily available oils that meet or Exceed ( mostly exceed ) BRP's specs for a lot less money ............ Mike

Your comment may be partially correct, or it may be partially wrong. No one has shown any money quid pro quo with regard to manufacturers recommendations. I'm not saying there would be any easy way to show that, all I'm saying is innocent until proven guilty.

Yes, there are other oils that meet most any other manufacturer's specs. I'm agreeing with jerpinoy in that there no valid reason to NOT use what they recommend. AND, They DO HAVE an interest in keeping your engine healthy and so I trust what they recommend. Do you think they want engines back while under warranty, or even out of warranty and get a bad reputation that sinks the company?

[Mad Mac]

Is anyone using Mobil 1 High Mileage Full Synthetic 10W-40 in their Spyder? I have been using it in the last several motorcycles have owned and seemed to be real good. I used in it two BMW LT’s and the last three Goldwings. I have little over 14,000 miles on my 2015 RT and it has always had Can Am XPS maintenance & oil change Kit. I do all my own service so I thought I would use the Mobil 1.

I run Mobile 1 4t racing 10w-40 in my Spyder. Since I use Mobil1 in anything that I ride on or in(except my lawn mower). I've used Mobile 1 since the 70's and have never been left on the side of the road yet(knock on wood). None of my vehicles once broke-in has ever used or leaked oil so I feel pretty confident using it. Mad Mac

[Richardv]

I just use what BRP recommend. They have a good reason.

...... as the Kenda tires....!!!!!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Your comment may be partially correct, or it may be partially wrong. No one has shown any money quid pro quo with regard to manufacturers recommendations. I'm not saying there would be any easy way to show that, all I'm saying is innocent until proven guilty.

Yes, there are other oils that meet most any other manufacturer's specs. I'm agreeing with jerpinoy in that there no valid reason to NOT use what they recommend. AND, They DO HAVE an interest in keeping your engine healthy and so I trust what they recommend. Do you think they want engines back while under warranty, or even out of warranty and get a bad reputation that sinks the company?

If Private Labs who have NO DOG in this ...... have shown that the BRP oil fails a lot sooner than most Major OIL Manufacturer's products do .......... Then What is your PROOF criteria.??? ... I have a feeling that You believe KENDA tires are great also ..... Drink Kool-Aid ...be Happy ...ride safe .... Mike

[ofdave]

The issue for a 998 engine is the warning that API SM rated oil cannot be used or it will cause clutch damage. Clearly stated in the owners manual for all models with a 998 engine. Mobil 1 changed their formula in the 4T to meet the SM rating and some folks had slipping clutches. I also got caught on my 09 when I bought into the chant from the Rottela T6 cult members and did a fill of that oil. My clutch started slipping. Again a API oil rating of SM.

The OP has a 2015 RT. It has a 1330 engine. Now the models with a 1330 engine do not have a warning about SM rated oil in the owners manual. So there should be no concern about using Mobil 4T or Rottela T6 5W40.

In regard to Rottela T6. Often folks recommend it for use in their Spyder. Here in Canada there are 2 viscosities of T6 available. 5W40 shows on the label that is can be used in a motorcycle. 0W40 does not and therefore should not be used in your Spyder.

The "SM" rating has nothing to do with wet clutch compatibility.
Most oils are rated SM. In fact, the rating system now goes to "SN". They began with "SA" in the 1930's I believe. The ratings were changed/upgraded as engines became more advanced and placed different demands on lubricating qualities. A good read is found here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_...ervice_classes
The issue with wet clutches is the friction modifiers added to the oil. This shows as "Energy Conserving" in the bottom half-circle around the rating number.
There has been an adoption of "JASO" standards for motorcycles in recent years. Not all oils meet these standards. Nor do they need to.
From a Wikepedia article:""The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) has created their own set of performance and quality standards for petrol engines of Japanese origin.
For four-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T904 standard is used, and is particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use, with MA2 lubricants delivering higher friction performance. The JASO T904-MB standard denotes oils not suitable for wet clutch use, and are therefore used in scooters equipped with continuously variable transmissions. The addition of friction modifiers to JASO MB oils can contribute to greater fuel economy in these applications.^[23]
For two-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO M345 (FA, FB, FC, FD) standard is used,^[24] and this refers particularly to low ash, lubricity, detergency, low smoke and exhaust blocking.
These standards, especially JASO-MA (for motorcycles) and JASO-FC, are designed to address oil-requirement issues not addressed by the API service categories. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage.^[10][25] An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label."

Use of "SM" rated oil will not hurt your Spyder. What will cause a problem is SM oil with friction modifiers shown as "Energy Conserving" in the API donut on the label.

[jaherbst]

Here we go again, I here those trumpets blow again, Taking a Chance on Love (Oil). Good to see the Circus is in town again and every one gets to exercise there fingers on the keyboards with their many diverse opinions!

Jack

[billybovine]

The "SM" rating has nothing to do with wet clutch compatibility.
Most oils are rated SM. In fact, the rating system now goes to "SN". They began with "SA" in the 1930's I believe. The ratings were changed/upgraded as engines became more advanced and placed different demands on lubricating qualities. A good read is found here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_...ervice_classes
The issue with wet clutches is the friction modifiers added to the oil. This shows as "Energy Conserving" in the bottom half-circle around the rating number.
There has been an adoption of "JASO" standards for motorcycles in recent years. Not all oils meet these standards. Nor do they need to.
From a Wikepedia article:""The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) has created their own set of performance and quality standards for petrol engines of Japanese origin.
For four-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T904 standard is used, and is particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use, with MA2 lubricants delivering higher friction performance. The JASO T904-MB standard denotes oils not suitable for wet clutch use, and are therefore used in scooters equipped with continuously variable transmissions. The addition of friction modifiers to JASO MB oils can contribute to greater fuel economy in these applications.^[23]
For two-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO M345 (FA, FB, FC, FD) standard is used,^[24] and this refers particularly to low ash, lubricity, detergency, low smoke and exhaust blocking.
These standards, especially JASO-MA (for motorcycles) and JASO-FC, are designed to address oil-requirement issues not addressed by the API service categories. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage.^[10][25] An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label."

Use of "SM" rated oil will not hurt your Spyder. What will cause a problem is SM oil with friction modifiers shown as "Energy Conserving" in the API donut on the label.

When you quote research materials maybe you should read them first. As explained in the wikipedia page you linked to.

Quote "Motorcycle oil.
The API oil classification structure has eliminated specific support for wet-clutch motorcycle applications in their descriptors, and API SJ and newer oils are referred to be specific to automobile and light truck use. Accordingly, motorcycle oils are subject to their own unique standards. See JASO below. As discussed above, motorcycle oils commonly still use the obsolescent SF/SG standard."

You are correct that most engine oil has gone to API SM or the never SN. But it is rare for a motorcycle oil. Again I repeat. With so many motorcycle oils compatible with the specs of your Spyder as spelled out in the owners manual. Why choose one that's not.

[Easy Rider]

Exactly how would an oil designed for old engines cause wear only on new engines?

Can't say "exactly" because I don't have access to the engineering data for that specific oil but...............

Just because it does not say "Energy Conserving" does not necessarily mean that it doesn't have some additives at a lower level that still might be detrimental to a wet clutch. It is a crap shoot. It is not a gamble if it is marked with the proper certification for motorcycles.

Then....one of the things that high mileage oil does is swell the seals, valve guide seals for one.
If the seals become TIGHTER than they are supposed to be they are likely to wear faster.

You got lucky apparently. Just because you got away with it does NOT mean that it is good advice for everybody.

Some people have even survived a trip over Niagra falls in a barrel.

[Grandpot]

Can't say "exactly" because I don't have access to the engineering data for that specific oil but...............

Just because it does not say "Energy Conserving" does not necessarily mean that it doesn't have some additives at a lower level that still might be detrimental to a wet clutch. It is a crap shoot. It is not a gamble if it is marked with the proper certification for motorcycles.

Then....one of the things that high mileage oil does is swell the seals, valve guide seals for one.
If the seals become TIGHTER than they are supposed to be they are likely to wear faster.

You got lucky apparently. Just because you got away with it does NOT mean that it is good advice for everybody.

Some people have even survived a trip over Niagra falls in a barrel.

You do have some good points there. I'll have to rethink this.

[ofdave]

When you quote research materials maybe you should read them first. As explained in the wikipedia page you linked to.

Quote "Motorcycle oil.
The API oil classification structure has eliminated specific support for wet-clutch motorcycle applications in their descriptors, and API SJ and newer oils are referred to be specific to automobile and light truck use. Accordingly, motorcycle oils are subject to their own unique standards. See JASO below. As discussed above, motorcycle oils commonly still use the obsolescent SF/SG standard."

You are correct that most engine oil has gone to API SM or the never SN. But it is rare for a motorcycle oil. Again I repeat. With so many motorcycle oils compatible with the specs of your Spyder as spelled out in the owners manual. Why choose one that's not.

thanks for the instructions in how to post a quote from research materials. don't now how I got through life this far without your instructions.
Perhaps the quote provides some information to those not familiar with oil ratings as was the intention.
I have a bottle of 4T 4-stroke motorcycle oil on the shelf. I am not naming the brand as I do not wish to get a dreaded "oil thread" started. We are (at least I am) talking about API ratings, specifically SM.

On the bottle the manufacturer states "API SJ/SL/SM/SN" and JASO MA2".

The use of SM rated oil with no "energy conserving" rating will not harm a wet clutch.

And again, thanks for the heads up on quoting research materials. I will surely take your instructions into consideration.

[Easy Rider]

The use of SM rated oil with no "energy conserving" rating will not harm a wet clutch.

Highly likely that is true.

But it does not HAVE to be true.

If it has additives that don't quite come up to the "energy conserving" rating, it still could be too "slippery" for use with a wet clutch.

[Easy Rider]

Probably. The last time I bought some, a couple of years back, it was a bit over $8 at Auto Zone.
If they end up selling much at your Wally World the price might come down some.

Just checked an Auto Zone yesterday.
It was priced at $11.15 a quart.
Looks like the WalMart price is pretty good.

[pegasus1300]

So if you are looking for a highly rated synthetic oil for wet clutches at a low price check out Shell Rotella T6 10w 40 (21.99/gal @ Advance Auto) or Valvoline T4 synthetic 10w 40 (6.67/qt @ WalMart). Both are JASO MA2,I use both, my Spyder runs shifts fine (2012 RTL SE5)