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Very Active Member
RTL Tail Trunk gas shock suggestions
I'm interested in putting a 2nd gas shock on my RT rear trunk lid to help it better pop up + I might put a rack on my tail trunk lid. I priced out the parts from the BRP website assuming I just needed to duplicate what is currently on the one side. The parts came to $104 which seems rather high to me for something that seems to be simple and I'd think less expensive.
Have any of you done this without BRP parts, like perhaps a gas shock from Autozone, Oreilly, Pep Boy, or others? If so were also able to get appropriate length shock and mounting parts? How did your costs compare? I welcome any insight from those of you who have done this.
Thank you,
Rob
2015 RT-Ltd SE6 and F3S SE6, both with a number of commercial add-ons plus my own tweaks.
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I got the parts online for about $60 plus shipping. This is what you need;
I started researching the parts numbers and here's what I came up with (from PartsShark as I recall). The info is from the exploded parts drawing.
Item 11 - Ball Head Stud (what a great part name!) - part # 250300039 @ $5.99 - one required
Item 12 - M8 Flanged Nut - part # 233281414 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 30 - Gas Shock - part # 708300383 @ $59.99 - one required
Item 31 - Spacer - part # 708300384 @ $10.99 - one required
Item 32 - Torx screw, M6 x 30 - part # 250000398 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 33 - Domed Nut, M6 - part # 232361493 @ $1.99 - one required
So, if all the necessary bits are OEM items, and I haven't made any mistakes in transcribing part numbers or prices, the cost appears to be right at $83US - plus tax and shipping. Not cheap, but in the grand scheme of things not outrageous either.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Parts List
Pete, when I look at PartsShark (thanks for suggesting the site as easier diagrams to see and explode) I come up with the following items for 2015 RT Limited SE 6 baggage parts from the PartsShark website):
11, 15, 23, 27, 99, and 102 for about $95.
By the way, my parts list from the BRP website exactly matches your parts list, but not for the price you mention.
What do think?
Rob
Originally Posted by UtahPete
I got the parts online for about $60 plus shipping. This is what you need;
I started researching the parts numbers and here's what I came up with (from PartsShark as I recall). The info is from the exploded parts drawing.
Item 11 - Ball Head Stud (what a great part name!) - part # 250300039 @ $5.99 - one required
Item 12 - M8 Flanged Nut - part # 233281414 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 30 - Gas Shock - part # 708300383 @ $59.99 - one required
Item 31 - Spacer - part # 708300384 @ $10.99 - one required
Item 32 - Torx screw, M6 x 30 - part # 250000398 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 33 - Domed Nut, M6 - part # 232361493 @ $1.99 - one required
So, if all the necessary bits are OEM items, and I haven't made any mistakes in transcribing part numbers or prices, the cost appears to be right at $83US - plus tax and shipping. Not cheap, but in the grand scheme of things not outrageous either.
Last edited by robhowen; 09-09-2017 at 12:45 PM.
Reason: expanded
2015 RT-Ltd SE6 and F3S SE6, both with a number of commercial add-ons plus my own tweaks.
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Originally Posted by robhowen
Pete, when I look at PartsShark (thanks for suggesting the site as easier diagrams to see and explode) I come up with the following items for 2015 RT Limited SE 6 baggage parts from the PartsShark website): 11, 15, 23, 27, 99, and 102 for about $95. By the way, my parts list from the BRP website exactly matches your parts list, but not for the price you mention. What do think? Rob
I got mine from PowerSportsWarehouse.com Quite a bit cheaper but shipping was $23. Check that out.
I think all of these places provide OEM parts from Can-Am. Most of them don't carry in stock but rather have them drop-shipped from a distributor, so it tends to take about 2 weeks.
Last edited by UtahPete; 09-09-2017 at 12:55 PM.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
you could take your existing strut to Advance Auto, find another strut the same dimensions,
with more lifting force. You don't add more "parts". There are more than one member on here
that have done that. Which always sounded more elegant to me.
Flatlander, Navy Veteran, Widower
Loved my 2014 RTS SE6 Pearl white
but have a new love now,
my 2017 RTS SE6 Champagne metallic (Champ)
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Very Active Member
Great suggestion
Great suggestion.
Rob
Originally Posted by 4 MARIE
you could take your existing strut to Advance Auto, find another strut the same dimensions,
with more lifting force. You don't add more "parts". There are more than one member on here
that have done that. Which always sounded more elegant to me.
2015 RT-Ltd SE6 and F3S SE6, both with a number of commercial add-ons plus my own tweaks.
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Very Active Member
I'd check Amazon for struts. If they have them, they are probably much cheaper than what has been suggested.
On the road again...........and forever young!
2013 RT-S SE 5
Yesterday is a cancelled check.
Tomorrow is a promissory note.
Today is cash.......spend it wisely.
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Very Active Member
Amazon pricing
For anyone that might be interested, the shock is available at Amazon for $44.90. You may find it by searching for "708300383 Replacement Lift Support For Can-Am Spyder RT 2010 To 2017".
Rob
Originally Posted by BoilerAnimal
I'd check Amazon for struts. If they have them, they are probably much cheaper than what has been suggested.
2015 RT-Ltd SE6 and F3S SE6, both with a number of commercial add-ons plus my own tweaks.
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Very Active Member
1. Remove the lower mount.
2. Drill a hole about 1/2" above the lower hole.
3. Insert lower hole hardware in the new hole.
4. Cost = zero.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
US Navy Veteran
SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
CNC Machine Service Technician
President: Rolling Thunder SC1
Member: Disabled American Veterans, Rock Hill, SC
Member: American Legion
Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!
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Very Active Member
Engineering at work!
Did you actually do this? If so how did the effect strike you and did you find any downside to doing this?
Rob
Originally Posted by Grandpot
1. Remove the lower mount.
2. Drill a hole about 1/2" above the lower hole.
3. Insert lower hole hardware in the new hole.
4. Cost = zero.
2015 RT-Ltd SE6 and F3S SE6, both with a number of commercial add-ons plus my own tweaks.
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Very Active Member
Simple and cheap mod.
Originally Posted by Grandpot
1. Remove the lower mount.
2. Drill a hole about 1/2" above the lower hole.
3. Insert lower hole hardware in the new hole.
4. Cost = zero.
I did this simple mod and it works just fine. I have the flat , safety chrome rack, and it stays up just fine even when loaded with cover and 2 rain gears.
Kaos
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by robhowen
Did you actually do this? If so how did the effect strike you and did you find any downside to doing this?
Rob
Yes, I did it. I had to do it to support a luggage rack. Works great, no down side.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
US Navy Veteran
SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
CNC Machine Service Technician
President: Rolling Thunder SC1
Member: Disabled American Veterans, Rock Hill, SC
Member: American Legion
Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!
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Very Active Member
Wonderful, thank you.
Thank you,
Rob
Originally Posted by Grandpot
Yes, I did it. I had to do it to support a luggage rack. Works great, no down side.
2015 RT-Ltd SE6 and F3S SE6, both with a number of commercial add-ons plus my own tweaks.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Grandpot
1. Remove the lower mount.
2. Drill a hole about 1/2" above the lower hole.
3. Insert lower hole hardware in the new hole.
4. Cost = zero.
Exactly what I posted about a year ago. I went 3/4" above existing hole though. PERFECT, 10 minutes to do, and FREE.
2021 RT Limited
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2
Exactly what I posted about a year ago. I went 3/4" above existing hole though. PERFECT, 10 minutes to do, and FREE.
I couldn't remember where I heard it from. I certainly will give credit where credit is due. Thanks.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
US Navy Veteran
SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
CNC Machine Service Technician
President: Rolling Thunder SC1
Member: Disabled American Veterans, Rock Hill, SC
Member: American Legion
Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Grandpot
I couldn't remember where I heard it from. I certainly will give credit where credit is due. Thanks.
Ohhh geez.....thanks....LOL. Glad it worked for ya!
2021 RT Limited
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Active Member
How do you get to the rear compartment lower mount on a RTL 2014 ??
Originally Posted by Grandpot
1. Remove the lower mount.
2. Drill a hole about 1/2" above the lower hole.
3. Insert lower hole hardware in the new hole.
4. Cost = zero.
How do I get to the lower mount location ?
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
All you need to do to get at the lower mount is to remove the passenger backrest.
Working from memory (& an increasingly active forgettory ) to do that, start by opening the trunk, look at the top of the backrest/base of the trunk lid, remove the screws holding the cover plate that sits between the hinges & the top of the backrest, remove the cover plate, remove the backrest securing screws, remove the backrest, & voila, all you need to see/work on is exposed!
Once you've drilled your holes & moved the bottom mount up a bit, refitting the backrest is just a reversal of the removal process!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Active Member
Thanks !!!!
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
All you need to do to get at the lower mount is to remove the passenger backrest.
Working from memory (& an increasingly active forgettory ) to do that, start by opening the trunk, look at the top of the backrest/base of the trunk lid, remove the screws holding the cover plate that sits between the hinges & the top of the backrest, remove the cover plate, remove the backrest securing screws, remove the backrest, & voila, all you need to see/work on is exposed!
Once you've drilled your holes & moved the bottom mount up a bit, refitting the backrest is just a reversal of the removal process!
Appreciate the quick response->))
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Active Member
OOPS - not so fast. Can't get cover off
Originally Posted by teninospyder
Appreciate the quick response->))
Removing screws isn't enough apparently. My 2014 RTL cover plate seems held in on the ends by part of the compartment lid (?)
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Very Active Member
WELLLLLLL NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT
Originally Posted by teninospyder
Removing screws isn't enough apparently. My 2014 RTL cover plate seems held in on the ends by part of the compartment lid (?)
Nope -- I've had mine off a dozen times and if you grab the outside part and lift ... it will come off ... the inside piece is attached to the body by the plastic hinges ... the first time I took mine off it was STUCK on ... but now it comes off very easy .... Good Luck ......... Mike ...... PS if you plan to surround the inside lip with LED's ....they will be more visible ...if you put 3/16th in. spaces between the upper and inside lid .... I used a piece of Gray plastic 1/4 dia plumbing feeder tube ...like the stuff that is used for connecting your main pipeing to the Faucets ....HD and Lowe's has it ..... Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 10-03-2017 at 07:49 PM.
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Sorry, like I said, I was working from memory....
How many screws did you get out?? Maybe it's 2 screws down the bottom & 2 push pin fasteners up the top under the lip, but it's definitely not majorly hard to get the cover off... you might just hafta feel around for the pins or screws that are holding it, but they are there & I thought reasonably obvious. Then it might just be a matter of applying some judicious lifting force - emphasis on the judicious bit.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 10-03-2017 at 07:49 PM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Active Member
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Backrest
My backrest has 3 screws to take out and then 2 screws on the top inside which have to be loosened. I don't have any pushpins......or maybe that's why I have leftover parts.....anyway, it takes a little effort and wiggling, but it comes off. But I do have an earlier model spyder....
Bob, k7xi. 2013 RTL
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Active Member
Got the backrest off and the lift cyl. moved up 1/2" - seems to work great !
OK - to all who tried to help me with the removal process....THANKS.
After finally finding and looking at a youtube video, it was apparent I was not looking at all the same screws all of you were describing. In a few minutes I had the backrest off and was looking at how to drill the new hole. NOTE to me.......NEVER do this kind of thing without covering up every possible place a small part (like the ball stud) could go hide - even when you think it just couldn't happen !!
After fishing for almost an hour I got the ball stud back from hiding (luckily in a solid "pocket" under the seat - just hard to get to with tools). Wrapped duct tape with sticky side out around my finger and after a few tries, finally it stuck and I pulled it out.
The rest is just routine stuff. Drilled the hole....made sure I covered all possible places anything could again fall...put the parts and backrest all in place....and it works as advertised and holds the rear compartment cover up very well! Nuff said ->))
THANKS AGAIN !!
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