RTL Tail Trunk gas shock suggestions

[robhowen]

I'm interested in putting a 2nd gas shock on my RT rear trunk lid to help it better pop up + I might put a rack on my tail trunk lid. I priced out the parts from the BRP website assuming I just needed to duplicate what is currently on the one side. The parts came to $104 which seems rather high to me for something that seems to be simple and I'd think less expensive.

Have any of you done this without BRP parts, like perhaps a gas shock from Autozone, Oreilly, Pep Boy, or others? If so were also able to get appropriate length shock and mounting parts? How did your costs compare? I welcome any insight from those of you who have done this.

Thank you,
Rob

[UtahPete]

I got the parts online for about $60 plus shipping. This is what you need;

I started researching the parts numbers and here's what I came up with (from PartsShark as I recall). The info is from the exploded parts drawing.

Item 11 - Ball Head Stud (what a great part name!) - part # 250300039 @ $5.99 - one required
Item 12 - M8 Flanged Nut - part # 233281414 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 30 - Gas Shock - part # 708300383 @ $59.99 - one required
Item 31 - Spacer - part # 708300384 @ $10.99 - one required
Item 32 - Torx screw, M6 x 30 - part # 250000398 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 33 - Domed Nut, M6 - part # 232361493 @ $1.99 - one required

So, if all the necessary bits are OEM items, and I haven't made any mistakes in transcribing part numbers or prices, the cost appears to be right at $83US - plus tax and shipping. Not cheap, but in the grand scheme of things not outrageous either.

[robhowen]

Pete, when I look at PartsShark (thanks for suggesting the site as easier diagrams to see and explode) I come up with the following items for 2015 RT Limited SE 6 baggage parts from the PartsShark website):

11, 15, 23, 27, 99, and 102 for about $95.

By the way, my parts list from the BRP website exactly matches your parts list, but not for the price you mention.

What do think?

Rob

I got the parts online for about $60 plus shipping. This is what you need;

I started researching the parts numbers and here's what I came up with (from PartsShark as I recall). The info is from the exploded parts drawing.

Item 11 - Ball Head Stud (what a great part name!) - part # 250300039 @ $5.99 - one required
Item 12 - M8 Flanged Nut - part # 233281414 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 30 - Gas Shock - part # 708300383 @ $59.99 - one required
Item 31 - Spacer - part # 708300384 @ $10.99 - one required
Item 32 - Torx screw, M6 x 30 - part # 250000398 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 33 - Domed Nut, M6 - part # 232361493 @ $1.99 - one required

So, if all the necessary bits are OEM items, and I haven't made any mistakes in transcribing part numbers or prices, the cost appears to be right at $83US - plus tax and shipping. Not cheap, but in the grand scheme of things not outrageous either.

[UtahPete]

Pete, when I look at PartsShark (thanks for suggesting the site as easier diagrams to see and explode) I come up with the following items for 2015 RT Limited SE 6 baggage parts from the PartsShark website): 11, 15, 23, 27, 99, and 102 for about $95. By the way, my parts list from the BRP website exactly matches your parts list, but not for the price you mention. What do think? Rob

I got mine from PowerSportsWarehouse.com Quite a bit cheaper but shipping was $23. Check that out.

I think all of these places provide OEM parts from Can-Am. Most of them don't carry in stock but rather have them drop-shipped from a distributor, so it tends to take about 2 weeks.

[4 MARIE]

you could take your existing strut to Advance Auto, find another strut the same dimensions,
with more lifting force. You don't add more "parts". There are more than one member on here
that have done that. Which always sounded more elegant to me.

[robhowen]

Great suggestion.
Rob

you could take your existing strut to Advance Auto, find another strut the same dimensions,
with more lifting force. You don't add more "parts". There are more than one member on here
that have done that. Which always sounded more elegant to me.

[BoilerAnimal]

I'd check Amazon for struts. If they have them, they are probably much cheaper than what has been suggested.

[robhowen]

For anyone that might be interested, the shock is available at Amazon for $44.90. You may find it by searching for "708300383 Replacement Lift Support For Can-Am Spyder RT 2010 To 2017".

Rob

I'd check Amazon for struts. If they have them, they are probably much cheaper than what has been suggested.

[Grandpot]

1. Remove the lower mount.
2. Drill a hole about 1/2" above the lower hole.
3. Insert lower hole hardware in the new hole.
4. Cost = zero.

[robhowen]

Did you actually do this? If so how did the effect strike you and did you find any downside to doing this?
Rob

1. Remove the lower mount.
2. Drill a hole about 1/2" above the lower hole.
3. Insert lower hole hardware in the new hole.
4. Cost = zero.

[Lew L]

1. Remove the lower mount.
2. Drill a hole about 1/2" above the lower hole.
3. Insert lower hole hardware in the new hole.
4. Cost = zero.

I did this simple mod and it works just fine. I have the flat , safety chrome rack, and it stays up just fine even when loaded with cover and 2 rain gears.

Kaos

[Grandpot]

Did you actually do this? If so how did the effect strike you and did you find any downside to doing this?
Rob

Yes, I did it. I had to do it to support a luggage rack. Works great, no down side.

[robhowen]

Thank you,
Rob

Yes, I did it. I had to do it to support a luggage rack. Works great, no down side.

[Mazo EMS2]

1. Remove the lower mount.
2. Drill a hole about 1/2" above the lower hole.
3. Insert lower hole hardware in the new hole.
4. Cost = zero.

Exactly what I posted about a year ago. I went 3/4" above existing hole though. PERFECT, 10 minutes to do, and FREE.

[Grandpot]

Exactly what I posted about a year ago. I went 3/4" above existing hole though. PERFECT, 10 minutes to do, and FREE.

I couldn't remember where I heard it from. I certainly will give credit where credit is due. Thanks.

[Mazo EMS2]

I couldn't remember where I heard it from. I certainly will give credit where credit is due. Thanks.

Ohhh geez.....thanks....LOL. Glad it worked for ya!

[teninospyder]

1. Remove the lower mount.
2. Drill a hole about 1/2" above the lower hole.
3. Insert lower hole hardware in the new hole.
4. Cost = zero.

How do I get to the lower mount location ?

[Peter Aawen]

All you need to do to get at the lower mount is to remove the passenger backrest.

Working from memory (& an increasingly active forgettory ) to do that, start by opening the trunk, look at the top of the backrest/base of the trunk lid, remove the screws holding the cover plate that sits between the hinges & the top of the backrest, remove the cover plate, remove the backrest securing screws, remove the backrest, & voila, all you need to see/work on is exposed!

Once you've drilled your holes & moved the bottom mount up a bit, refitting the backrest is just a reversal of the removal process!

[teninospyder]

All you need to do to get at the lower mount is to remove the passenger backrest.

Working from memory (& an increasingly active forgettory ) to do that, start by opening the trunk, look at the top of the backrest/base of the trunk lid, remove the screws holding the cover plate that sits between the hinges & the top of the backrest, remove the cover plate, remove the backrest securing screws, remove the backrest, & voila, all you need to see/work on is exposed!

Once you've drilled your holes & moved the bottom mount up a bit, refitting the backrest is just a reversal of the removal process!

Appreciate the quick response->))

[teninospyder]

Appreciate the quick response->))

Removing screws isn't enough apparently. My 2014 RTL cover plate seems held in on the ends by part of the compartment lid (?)

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Removing screws isn't enough apparently. My 2014 RTL cover plate seems held in on the ends by part of the compartment lid (?)

Nope -- I've had mine off a dozen times and if you grab the outside part and lift ... it will come off ... the inside piece is attached to the body by the plastic hinges ... the first time I took mine off it was STUCK on ... but now it comes off very easy .... Good Luck ......... Mike ...... PS if you plan to surround the inside lip with LED's ....they will be more visible ...if you put 3/16th in. spaces between the upper and inside lid .... I used a piece of Gray plastic 1/4 dia plumbing feeder tube ...like the stuff that is used for connecting your main pipeing to the Faucets ....HD and Lowe's has it ..... Mike

[Peter Aawen]

Sorry, like I said, I was working from memory....

How many screws did you get out?? Maybe it's 2 screws down the bottom & 2 push pin fasteners up the top under the lip, but it's definitely not majorly hard to get the cover off... you might just hafta feel around for the pins or screws that are holding it, but they are there & I thought reasonably obvious. Then it might just be a matter of applying some judicious lifting force - emphasis on the judicious bit.

[teninospyder]

Nope -- I've had mine off a dozen times and if you grab the outside part and lift ... it will come off ... the inside piece is attached to the body by the plastic hinges ... the first time I took mine off it was STUCK on ... but now it comes off very easy .... Good Luck ......... Mike ...... PS if you plan to surround the inside lip with LED's ....they will be more visible ...if you put 3/16th in. spaces between the upper and inside lid .... I used a piece of Gray plastic 1/4 dia plumbing feeder tube ...like the stuff that is used for connecting your main pipeing to the Faucets ....HD and Lowe's has it ..... Mike

I have removed the 2 screws AND the 2 push pins and this piece will NOT come clear of the backrest or the 2 ends. It is all one piece across the backrest and is actually up under the top lip of the backrest and can't be moved out of the way.
???

[k7xi]

My backrest has 3 screws to take out and then 2 screws on the top inside which have to be loosened. I don't have any pushpins......or maybe that's why I have leftover parts.....anyway, it takes a little effort and wiggling, but it comes off. But I do have an earlier model spyder....

[teninospyder]

OK - to all who tried to help me with the removal process....THANKS.
After finally finding and looking at a youtube video, it was apparent I was not looking at all the same screws all of you were describing. In a few minutes I had the backrest off and was looking at how to drill the new hole. NOTE to me.......NEVER do this kind of thing without covering up every possible place a small part (like the ball stud) could go hide - even when you think it just couldn't happen !!

After fishing for almost an hour I got the ball stud back from hiding (luckily in a solid "pocket" under the seat - just hard to get to with tools). Wrapped duct tape with sticky side out around my finger and after a few tries, finally it stuck and I pulled it out.

The rest is just routine stuff. Drilled the hole....made sure I covered all possible places anything could again fall...put the parts and backrest all in place....and it works as advertised and holds the rear compartment cover up very well! Nuff said ->))

THANKS AGAIN !!