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  1. #1
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    Default Front trunk latch

    I have a 2012 RT-S with about 7200 miles on it and my front latches is not working properly. I have to continue pressing it to get it to final release. Before I take it the local dealer for repair, I was hoping to see anyone else experience this issue. Also, I was wandering what the cost of repair would be?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default FRUNK LATCH

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueRTS View Post
    I have a 2012 RT-S with about 7200 miles on it and my front latches is not working properly. I have to continue pressing it to get it to final release. Before I take it the local dealer for repair, I was hoping to see anyone else experience this issue. Also, I was wandering what the cost of repair would be?
    They are easily adjusted .... do you have a 10mm socket ( a deep one works best ) ...if so I'll tell you what to do ....Mike

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Adjustments....

    First off does it latch easily..? Or do you have to press it down to latch..? The pin on the frunk lid is adjustable, loosen the lock nut and back the pin out a turn or two then test it. When you get to the right point tighten the lock nut to secure the pin in place...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California



    ​2012 RS sm5


  4. #4
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    Default

    After you adjust it make sure you spray the latch with wd40.
    2012 Spyder RT SE5 Brake pedal mod

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    First off does it latch easily..? Or do you have to press it down to latch..? The pin on the frunk lid is adjustable, loosen the lock nut and back the pin out a turn or two then test it. When you get to the right point tighten the lock nut to secure the pin in place...
    Not to steal this thread, but my frunk opens normally but is difficult to latch. (I have to press it down ... with some force.) I see two nuts on the pin - one near the lid and one near the end of the pin. Which nut are you referring to? And in which direction do I need to move the pin in my case? Shorten the pin or lengthen it?

    Thanks!

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jerpinoy View Post
    After you adjust it make sure you spray the latch with wd40.
    Sorry but that's NOT a good idea.
    WD dries to a sticky film and at that point is NOT really a good lubricant.

    Some silicone lube might actually solve the problem without mechanical adjustment.
    I suggest you try that first.
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

  7. #7
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    They are easily adjusted .... do you have a 10mm socket ( a deep one works best ) ...if so I'll tell you what to do ....Mike
    OK Mike so assume we have or can easily obtain a deep 10 mm socket. What do we do next?

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

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  8. #8
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default FRUNK LATCH

    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    OK Mike so assume we have or can easily obtain a deep 10 mm socket. What do we do next?
    OK as you face the open Frunk .... look at the Latch .... there are two 10 mm nuts ( they are on fixed studs like on your wheels ) ...... You should remove the left plastic cover to get better access ..... and the DEEP socket is better for the ACTUAL Removal of the Latch !! ... An open end wrench will work for a little adjusting ...... So you are probably doing this because the hood doesn't latch EASILY or the hood doesn't open EASILY ...... so if you loosen the bolts enough to put a screw driver at the front you can LEVER it up a VERY little .... tighten nuts and see if that was enough ..... if not loosen and lever it up a touch more ...again tighten nuts .... keep repeating until your are happy with how it works ................PS as someone said don't use WD40 as a LUBRICANT ..... it's not a Lubricant , it's used to LOOSEN things but doesn't work as a long term lubricant............ Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 08-23-2017 at 06:40 PM.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    OK as you face the open Frunk .... look at the Latch .... there are two 10 mm nuts ( they are on fixed studs like on your wheels ) ...... You should remove the left plastic cover to get better access ..... and the DEEP socket is better for the ACTUAL Removal of the Latch !! ... An open end wrench will work for a little adjusting ...... So you are probably doing this because the hood doesn't latch EASILY or the hood doesn't open EASILY ...... so if you loosen the bolts enough to put a screw driver at the front you can LEVER it up a VERY little .... tighten nuts and see if that was enough ..... if not loosen and lever it up a touch more ...again tighten nuts .... keep repeating until your are happy with how it works ................PS as someone said don't use WD40 as a LUBRICANT ..... it's not a Lubricant , it's used to LOOSEN things but doesn't work as a long term lubricant............ Mike
    Thanks Mike, worked like a champ. I have to say I am not very pleased with the work my dealer did on this job. He has been good in the past but the quality this time was not up to par. It is too much effort to go back to him for the correction but he will hear about it.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

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  10. #10
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default FRUNK LATCH

    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    Thanks Mike, worked like a champ. I have to say I am not very pleased with the work my dealer did on this job. He has been good in the past but the quality this time was not up to par. It is too much effort to go back to him for the correction but he will hear about it.
    ..... Glad I could help you with this ..... the adjusting is hit or miss because you don't want too much and too little won't work ..... sometimes if your really Lucky you get exact the first , Because I was doing FRUNK LATCH RELEASE - PULLS , I did a few dozen complete removal and re-assembly .... and even with that experience it was still hit or miss ....... Mike

  11. #11
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    Default Frunk Power Latch

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    OK as you face the open Frunk .... look at the Latch .... there are two 10 mm nuts ( they are on fixed studs like on your wheels ) ...... You should remove the left plastic cover to get better access ..... and the DEEP socket is better for the ACTUAL Removal of the Latch !! ... An open end wrench will work for a little adjusting ...... So you are probably doing this because the hood doesn't latch EASILY or the hood doesn't open EASILY ...... so if you loosen the bolts enough to put a screw driver at the front you can LEVER it up a VERY little .... tighten nuts and see if that was enough ..... if not loosen and lever it up a touch more ...again tighten nuts .... keep repeating until your are happy with how it works ................PS as someone said don't use WD40 as a LUBRICANT ..... it's not a Lubricant , it's used to LOOSEN things but doesn't work as a long term lubricant............ Mike
    Ok, my issue may be with the power latch that unlock the frunk. I have to continue to press the button to get it to pop open. How can I tell if its the power button or if the latch needs adjustment without taking it back to the dealer?

  12. #12
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    Default Front trunk lid

    I have issues with the front trunk lid sealing all the way around. Standing, at the front, the right half will not go all the the way down on the seal. Dealer said the the lid was warped and would check. BRP said they did not have a fix. Ride 2016 RT Limited HELP Thanks, Little Blue

  13. #13
    Active Member BigGuy66's Avatar
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    Default I did exactly what Mike said...

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    OK as you face the open Frunk .... look at the Latch .... there are two 10 mm nuts ( they are on fixed studs like on your wheels ) ...... You should remove the left plastic cover to get better access ..... and the DEEP socket is better for the ACTUAL Removal of the Latch !! ... An open end wrench will work for a little adjusting ...... So you are probably doing this because the hood doesn't latch EASILY or the hood doesn't open EASILY ...... so if you loosen the bolts enough to put a screw driver at the front you can LEVER it up a VERY little .... tighten nuts and see if that was enough ..... if not loosen and lever it up a touch more ...again tighten nuts .... keep repeating until your are happy with how it works ................PS as someone said don't use WD40 as a LUBRICANT ..... it's not a Lubricant , it's used to LOOSEN things but doesn't work as a long term lubricant............ Mike
    ...my frunk now works easily to close and to open. Thanks - But... what do I use to lubricate this system and where do I use it?

    Ryde, eat, sleep.... repeat
    2010 RT SM5
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  14. #14
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default LUBRICANT

    Quote Originally Posted by BigGuy66 View Post
    ...my frunk now works easily to close and to open. Thanks - But... what do I use to lubricate this system and where do I use it?
    I prefer CRC Heavy duty Silicone .... after it dries it leaves a nice Film , un-like White Lithium grease which will also attract CRUD ..... Folks mis-takenly use WD40 which isn't a lubricant ...it's good for braking things loose but it's only temporary , imho ..... Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 09-13-2017 at 06:31 PM.

  15. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Little Blue View Post
    Dealer said the the lid was warped and would check. BRP said they did not have a fix.
    Of course there is a fix. Replace the lid.
    If there is no sign of purposeful damage and it's still under warranty, THEY should cover the cost.
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

  16. #16
    Active Member classicvw's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I prefer CRC Heavy duty Silicone .... after it dries it leaves a nice Film , un-like White Lithium grease which will also attract CRUD ..... Folks mis-takenly use WD40 which isn't a lubricant ...it's good for braking things loose but it's only temporary , imho ..... Mike


    It was probably me that advised against WD-40. It does free things up so people think whatever you used it on is now lubricated. It is obviously wet when you spray it on, so people assume it's lubricated, but it dries rather quickly, leaving nothing behind.

  17. #17
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default WD40 VS. SILICONE SPRAY

    Quote Originally Posted by classicvw View Post

    It was probably me that advised against WD-40. It does free things up so people think whatever you used it on is now lubricated. It is obviously wet when you spray it on, so people assume it's lubricated, but it dries rather quickly, leaving nothing behind.
    ... also ..... the silicone goes on wet also, and dries pretty quick .... but the silicone leaves behind a slippery film .... Mike

  18. #18
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by classicvw View Post
    It was probably me that advised against WD-40...................but it dries rather quickly, leaving nothing behind.
    Not exactly. It leaves a sticky film.......that is designed to be a Water Dispersant (WD).
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

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