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SAVING MONEY ON CAT DELETE...............................
Instead of purchasing a new cat delete for my 2012 RT Limited, would it be possible to remove existing converter, have it gutted and then reinstall. I have not checked with my local shops yet, I just need to know if a gutted converter would be the same as a new bypass pipe....
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
A few have done that reasonably successfully, but do bear in mind that the 'primary muffler' or Cat as it is often called is pretty much designed to create heat at that particular point in the exhaust so that what little actual catalyst honeycomb there is in there can work appropriately at catching the unwanted emissions.... so gutting your OE Cat might reduce SOME of the heat generated & may even reduce the turbulence & excessive back pressure created in the exhaust/cat that helps all that happen, but it won't ever be as good at reducing any/all of that as a 'proper' cat eliminator will be.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-15-2017 at 08:22 AM.
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Active Member
Howdy,
If you pull off the cat will it throw out some kind of emission code. We I live you don't have to go through inspections but in some states you may have to. Could it possibly come back to bite you in the end instead of just replacing it with the proper item?
Jim
2012 Can am Spyder RT Limited
2013 Chevy Camaro SS
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Very Active Member
CAT GUTS
SAM_1041.jpg SAM_1042.jpg
this is a Cat from a 990 RT... this will give you an idea as to what's inside yours...
the center tube is the actual CAT, the rest is for noise abatement.
Dan P
SPYD3R
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by heyharris1
Howdy,
If you pull off the cat will it throw out some kind of emission code. We I live you don't have to go through inspections but in some states you may have to. Could it possibly come back to bite you in the end instead of just replacing it with the proper item?
Jim
Removing the cat will not set a code on any Spyder.
There is no post cat O2 sensor on any Spyder.
Spyders are not subject to emissions inspections in any state in the US. Including CA.
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How much money are you REALLY saving?
By the time you gut the converter, and put it back together: you could have already been riding your bike with the bypass installed.
Don't forget: having that converter intact will always give you the option to re-install it...
(What if a potential buyer is scared off by your modifications?)
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Very Active Member
Have to agree
If you have reservations on the needing the cat at sometime you should remove it and shelf it. The difference may be mininal...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
GUTTING THE - CAT
Originally Posted by SPYD3R
SAM_1041.jpg SAM_1042.jpg
this is a Cat from a 990 RT... this will give you an idea as to what's inside yours...
the center tube is the actual CAT, the rest is for noise abatement.
Dan P
SPYD3R
The 1330 is similar to above !!! . .. the important point is you can't just remove the plumbing inside and have an empty / hollow Primary Muffler .....it might work but not very efficiently ....IMHO....... Mike
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The catalyst-containing honeycomb structure on an F3 is at the inlet of the primary muffler. Simply knock it out with a chisel. I've done that on both our F3s. That maintains a certain amount of back pressure, removes the structure intended to be hot, and increases the exhaust tone a bit. No one runs at WOT to benefit from open exhaust. The other argument is save weight: that primary is adding traction at the rear wheel which an F3 and F3-S need.
The primary muffler has a double wall construction to reduce radiated heat. I get way more heat from the radiators than the gutted primary.
On one I also removed the packing from the secondary muffler. On side by side runs, it is stronger and normally takes another liter/0.3 gals of fuel on a near empty fill. Oh, and it was the strongest at the unofficial drag race at SpyderFest 2015.
Wayne
pauly1 - SpyderDeb's 'wrench'
2018 F3-T & 2015 F3-S Road Warrior Foundation Tribute customs
IBA #48220 SS1000 BB1500
2015 F3-S , OEM na Basic Black with Custom Wrap
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Active Member
I removed mine yesterday and replaced with a Spyderman Exhaust. I could not believe how much the stock system weighed. reduced weight and much less undercarriage heat can only be a good thing. Not to mention my 1330 now sings beautifully.
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Originally Posted by pauly1
The catalyst-containing honeycomb structure on an F3 is at the inlet of the primary muffler. Simply knock it out with a chisel. I've done that on both our F3s. That maintains a certain amount of back pressure, removes the structure intended to be hot, and increases the exhaust tone a bit. No one runs at WOT to benefit from open exhaust. The other argument is save weight: that primary is adding traction at the rear wheel which an F3 and F3-S need.
The primary muffler has a double wall construction to reduce radiated heat. I get way more heat from the radiators than the gutted primary.
On one I also removed the packing from the secondary muffler. On side by side runs, it is stronger and normally takes another liter/0.3 gals of fuel on a near empty fill. Oh, and it was the strongest at the unofficial drag race at SpyderFest 2015.
Wayne
What kind of tone difference did you get from your chisel work? Was it raspy and high, or low and mean?
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