2010 RT-SM5 Stalling

[SpydeRider2010]

2010 RT-SM5, 74,000 miles stalls at stops, when clutch engaged

To date: Previous Diagnostic Trouble Code for Bank One-Lean, both spark plugs replaced, Purge valve replaced, Evap canister replaced (overweight from saturation), Throttle Body replaced with Gen 3, Throttle Body to intake hoses replaced, both oxygen sensors replaced, Mass Airflow hoses replaced, Air Filter replaced, has latest BUDS updates, no DTCs found at this time

Bike will start with no difficulties, idle @ 1200-1350 RPM, after reaching riding operating temp and coming to full stop, and engaging clutch... idle becomes erratic and stalls.

Tech Support at BRP has open case on this, has been unable to pinpoint exact cause based on their diagnostics and parts replacement.

Any ideas...? Have been unable to locate anything in Forum on this concern

[SpyderAnn01]

I had the same symptoms on my 13 RT SM5 and it was the purge valve, but you've already replaced that. Good luck

[quasi]

2010 RT-SM5, 74,000 miles stalls at stops, when clutch engaged

To date: Previous Diagnostic Trouble Code for Bank One-Lean, both spark plugs replaced, Purge valve replaced, Evap canister replaced (overweight from saturation), Throttle Body replaced with Gen 3, Throttle Body to intake hoses replaced, both oxygen sensors replaced, Mass Airflow hoses replaced, Air Filter replaced, has latest BUDS updates, no DTCs found at this time

Bike will start with no difficulties, idle @ 1200-1350 RPM, after reaching riding operating temp and coming to full stop, and engaging clutch... idle becomes erratic and stalls.

Tech Support at BRP has open case on this, has been unable to pinpoint exact cause based on their diagnostics and parts replacement.

Any ideas...? Have been unable to locate anything in Forum on this concern

vacuum leak.

[Bob Denman]

Something may need some tightening-up??

With the bike in gear, and the clutch pulled-in: does it roll freely?
Perhaps the clutch is hanging up, and causing it to stall.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

vacuum leak.

Yeah. I would be looking at the clutch vacuum assist solenoid valve. It uses the front cylinder - Bank 1 - as the vacuum source, and it would operate during clutch operation. Right side of motor. Could be leaking hose or bad solenoid valve. It is the component in common between the clutch and Bank 1 lean condition. It has an open port to atmosphere that isn't connected to anything. Supposed to be that way. But an internal problem could allow vacuum leak from the valve.

[SpydeRider2010]

Something may need some tightening-up??

With the bike in gear, and the clutch pulled-in: does it roll freely?
Perhaps the clutch is hanging up, and causing it to stall.

Yeah Bob it does. This only happens after bike has been ran for awhile. First few miles of stop and go are no problem. But after 20-30 miles is when conditiin surfaces.

[Bob Denman]

So it's not the drivetrain: it's got to be in the fuel management system.
It's okay cold; but gets flustered, when it warms up...

[youngers]

this almost sounds like a radiator water temp sensor { I know it sounds goofy , had a ford s.u.v. seems like it ran well until about 20 minutes or so into the operation and then it didn t wish to start ,hard time to keep going , changed out the temp sensor and runs like a champ } the temp sensor is not the same as the temp reading thermometer you see on the dash , { if the can-ams have one that is } this sensor I guess give the throttle body the idea of cold fuel mix , when hot it leans the fuel and more air , { cold : more gas than air --- hot : more air than gas , might be the odd idle ? } good luck with it my friend , hope it is super easy fix ... { is there a fuel fuse relay ? }

[SpydeRider2010]

So it's not the drivetrain: it's got to be in the fuel management system.
It's okay cold; but gets flustered, when it warms up...

Forgot to mention it... but clutch engaged or in neutral, makes no difference.

[SpydeRider2010]

this almost sounds like a radiator water temp sensor { I know it sounds goofy , had a ford s.u.v. seems like it ran well until about 20 minutes or so into the operation and then it didn t wish to start ,hard time to keep going , changed out the temp sensor and runs like a champ } the temp sensor is not the same as the temp reading thermometer you see on the dash , { if the can-ams have one that is } this sensor I guess give the throttle body the idea of cold fuel mix , when hot it leans the fuel and more air , { cold : more gas than air --- hot : more air than gas , might be the odd idle ? } good luck with it my friend , hope it is super easy fix ... { is there a fuel fuse relay ? }

I'll pass that idea along. Thnx