250000843, 250300039, 708300383, and 708300384 Are the part #s to order. For all the nuts bolts and strut you'll need.
Your solution interests me because my wife's new-to-her RT Limited came with the same trunk rack. I like to contribute to her happiness, so . . . I started researching the parts numbers and here's what I came up with (from PartsShark as I recall). The info is from the exploded parts drawing.
Item 11 - Ball Head Stud (what a great part name!) - part # 250300039 @ $5.99 - one required
Item 12 - M8 Flanged Nut - part # 233281414 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 30 - Gas Shock - part # 708300383 @ $59.99 - one required
Item 31 - Spacer - part # 708300384 @ $10.99 - one required
Item 32 - Torx screw, M6 x 30 - part # 250000398 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 33 - Domed Nut, M6 - part # 232361493 @ $1.99 - one required
So, if all the necessary bits are OEM items, and I haven't made any mistakes in transcribing part numbers or prices, the cost appears to be right at $83US - plus tax and shipping. Not cheap, but in the grand scheme of things not outrageous either.
So, before I tear into it, does anyone have any advice on removing the passenger back rest on the RT to get at the trunk lid struts?
I'll wager there's a You Tube video that shows how to do just that. Thought I haven't looked, there's a high probability that there will be - it seems there's a video about how to do almost anything to a Spyder.
Your solution interests me because my wife's new-to-her RT Limited came with the same trunk rack. I like to contribute to her happiness, so . . . I started researching the parts numbers and here's what I came up with (from PartsShark as I recall). The info is from the exploded parts drawing.
Item 11 - Ball Head Stud (what a great part name!) - part # 250300039 @ $5.99 - one required
Item 12 - M8 Flanged Nut - part # 233281414 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 30 - Gas Shock - part # 708300383 @ $59.99 - one required
Item 31 - Spacer - part # 708300384 @ $10.99 - one required
Item 32 - Torx screw, M6 x 30 - part # 250000398 @ $1.99 - one required
Item 33 - Domed Nut, M6 - part # 232361493 @ $1.99 - one required
So, if all the necessary bits are OEM items, and I haven't made any mistakes in transcribing part numbers or prices, the cost appears to be right at $83US - plus tax and shipping. Not cheap, but in the grand scheme of things not outrageous either.
That looks about right. The original parts list left out the two nuts (item 12 and 33) so I'm going to have to source those locally before completing the install.
I'll wager there's a You Tube video that shows how to do just that. Thought I haven't looked, there's a high probability that there will be - it seems there's a video about how to do almost anything to a Spyder.
I didn't find a video but found this earlier post from Firefly;
Remove 3 Torx from inside the rear trunk, then 2 smaller torx up above holding the plastic 'top' in place just need to be loosened.. then the whole thing will just slide up and out....
After you remove the strut, unscrew the end off the rod and take it all down to your local ACE Hardware store. In the fastener department there will be a bunch of drawers with coil springs. Go through them and pick one that will go over the rod but not over the not the large portion of the strut. When I found one I had to adjust it a little by stretching it a bit so it would apply a little more pressure to hold the lid up. It's a hand fit process, but it works very well when you get it all together. A new strut is kind of expensive.
After you remove the strut, unscrew the end off the rod and take it all down to your local ACE Hardware store. In the fastener department there will be a bunch of drawers with coil springs. Go through them and pick one that will go over the rod but not over the not the large portion of the strut. When I found one I had to adjust it a little by stretching it a bit so it would apply a little more pressure to hold the lid up. It's a hand fit process, but it works very well when you get it all together. A new strut is kind of expensive.
Thanks. Sounds like a great alternative to the new / additional strut.
I didn't find a video but found this earlier post from Firefly;
Remove 3 Torx from inside the rear trunk, then 2 smaller torx up above holding the plastic 'top' in place just need to be loosened.. then the whole thing will just slide up and out....
Well rats! I was virtually certain there would be a video. Just goes to show how wrong I can be (very rarely however).
Well rats! I was virtually certain there would be a video. Just goes to show how wrong I can be (very rarely however).
Not saying there isn't one ... I just didn't look any more once I got the info I was looking for. It really is very simple - 5 torx screws accessible from the trunk and you're done.
After you remove the strut, unscrew the end off the rod and take it all down to your local ACE Hardware store. In the fastener department there will be a bunch of drawers with coil springs. Go through them and pick one that will go over the rod but not over the not the large portion of the strut. When I found one I had to adjust it a little by stretching it a bit so it would apply a little more pressure to hold the lid up. It's a hand fit process, but it works very well when you get it all together. A new strut is kind of expensive.
This worked really well. See adjacent pic.Trunk lid strut spring-2.jpg $1.00 fix for my less-than-spry trunk lid lift strut.
Originally Posted by almosthere
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