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  1. #26
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    ..... Have noticed a bit more power so far. ......

    Even if taking the cat converter off does nothing else (a concept that I personally cannot agree with) your Spyder just HAS to feel better after shedding the at least 10 lbs of unnecessary weight that makes up the cat converter! (the Converter on my 2013 RT weighed over 7kgs, anyone want to do the conversion?! )
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  2. #27
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    I really didnt care how much weight I removed it was more to see if I got a bit more power and get rid of the heat under and around the rear tire. Got tired of smelling burnt rubber after a ride all the time.

    Also some have commented on its louder. My setup is almost stock levels.

  3. #28
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    I understand, but loosing that weight is always going to make a noticeable performance improvement even if dropping the cat didn't also take away most of the heat that it generated between your feet as well as improving the engine's mid range response.

    As far as I'm concerned, that cumulative performance improvement teamed with the heat reduction fully justified fitting a cat eliminator, & since I retained the majority of the OE muffler the increased noise was not significant to me either way.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  4. #29
    Very Active Member SteveLaoyster's Avatar
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    Default To anyone removing their cat.....

    I just did mine over the weekend. Kudos to Lamonster's Garage for an awesome job on the bypass pipe.

    But I had the same problem everyone else has encountered, how to get that top spring off and on?

    With a little thought and innovation I realized that I had a tool that work perfect for the job. I went into the house and got the dog's leash.

    It's for a small dog and it's sewn so I knew it would do the job.

    To get the top spring off just hook it to the spring and pull from the back of the trike. The spring will pop right off.

    To put the spring back on, with the spring on the front loop, wrap the leash around the bypass pipe near the muffler,

    get tension on it and pull the leash towards the floor and with enough tension the spring will go onto the back loop.
    AKA Jud Smales, Four Year Spyder Ryder!
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  5. #30
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    My old handy brake tools work perfect for the springs, a couple of the are made to stretch springs .

  6. #31
    Active Member rpatsh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cptjam View Post
    With practice, it is a 15 minute job. Hook a 6 foot piece of strong cord (like parachute cord, 550 line, thin cable) over the spring, and have your helper pull aft. Do all 3. We normally leave the cord on the top one, so as to get it first when we put it back together. Ann wraps it around the socket extension, sits, and pulls. I direct the angle to catch the loop. We broke my spring tool on it, and devised the cord trick. Works great!
    This is how I did it. worked out great!
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  7. #32
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    Default spring removal

    Quote Originally Posted by rpatsh View Post
    This is how I did it. worked out great!
    Yep me too, same method. First time 20 minutes install without the db-killer. Second time 10 minute to install the db-killer, now happy
    2020 F3S , Matte black

  8. #33
    Active Member cmarsala's Avatar
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    Default Spring hook

    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster Renovations View Post
    We sell a tool for that. $15 includes shipping. You use a pair of needle nose pliers with it to leverage the spring. Very easy.

    PM me if you need it.
    RR can you post a picture

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