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Active Member
Cannister-ectomy
I've read on this forum about the 990 V twins that had issues with starting. The vapor cannister was plugged. But my 2014 1330 is having trouble starting after it sits for a while. My dealer doesn't seem to think it's such a big deal. Whenever I stop for a short time I have to open the gas cap for it to start again. I've watched the video disconnecting the stock cannister on the 990's. Is there something similar I can do with my RT?
Chuck
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Very Active Member
I believe that there was something about faulty gas caps, maybe not your model.
Joe
U.S. Army Viet Nam Era Vet
2013 Spyder RT-L, Black Currant
Trunk mount dual SS flag holder
TricLed foam hand grips (awesome)
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Utopia Deluxe driver backrest
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Active Member
A new cap
Thanks Bleau.
My dealer thought it was the gas cap and he gave me a new one. It didn't help. I thought of keeping the old one and drilling a small hole in it but that wouldn't solve anything, and Nanny may protest.
Chuck
Originally Posted by Buckeye Bleau
I believe that there was something about faulty gas caps, maybe not your model.
Joe
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I take it you mean it is having trouble running and not starting? Did you try running some fuel treatment? Mine did that some last summer and a fuel treatment seemed to make it run better.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Active Member
My RT runs great, just as it should. After I ride a couple hours I'll stop it to take a short break, then the starting issues appear when I try to start again. If I remember to loosen the gas cap when I turn the key off then it will start right up. This RT has a lot of miles on it.
I will try the gas treatment, I haven't added any since last winter.
Thanks
Chuck
Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01
I take it you mean it is having trouble running and not starting? Did you try running some fuel treatment? Mine did that some last summer and a fuel treatment seemed to make it run better.
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Very Active Member
When you say that you have to loosen the cap. Do you actually hear air going into the tank. If so there is a venting problem. The fuel tank vent system is designed to be at or near atmospheric pressure. The cap is not vented. So changing the cap is a waste of effort. There is a filter in the tail of your Spyder that needs to be changed from time to time. Has it? Also a vent line could be pinched shut. That can happen if some work was done and not put together properly. There was one person a couple years ago posted about his fuel tank collapsing because the vent was blocked.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Buckeye Chuck 54
My RT runs great, just as it should. After I ride a couple hours I'll stop it to take a short break, then the starting issues appear when I try to start again. If I remember to loosen the gas cap when I turn the key off then it will start right up. This RT has a lot of miles on it.
I will try the gas treatment, I haven't added any since last winter.
Thanks
Chuck
So, if I understand this right, if you loosen the gas cap at the beginning of your break - so the bike sits with the gas cap loose - then it will start up when you're ready to go again? Do you ever notice hard starting right after you fill up with fuel, also?
Both are universal indications of a partially stuck open purge valve. It's not enough to kill the engine because of the vacuum leak, but it allows the intake manifold to become flooded with vapors and displace all of the oxygen. Requires excessive cranking to get air back into the intake. You loosen the gas cap and the vapors go out the cap and not into the engine.
We have a pressurized fuel injection system where the fuel pump sits submerged in the tank. I don't think it's a fuel delivery issue. I think all you need is a new purge valve. You could change that yourself.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Very Active Member
EVAP / CHARCOAL CANNISTER
This hasn't been mentioned yet ..... the 1330 CAN'T have the same issue that the V-twins had .... because the location of the canister was moved and the hose routing prevents GAS from going into it...... At least that how it looks on the Fiche' ..... Mike
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Very Active Member
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Very Active Member
GAS
Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder
When I mention filling up with fuel, it's still all about the vapors. As the tank fills it pushes all the vapors into the intake since the nozzle is restricting the tank opening. Actually learned about this because it happened to the last car we had. Stumped until the technician replaced the purge valve.
Sorry I should have written the entire word .....GASOLINE ..... not gas as in vapors ..... Mike
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Buckeye Chuck 54
I've read on this forum about the 990 V twins that had issues with starting. The vapor cannister was plugged. But my 2014 1330 is having trouble starting after it sits for a while. My dealer doesn't seem to think it's such a big deal. Whenever I stop for a short time I have to open the gas cap for it to start again. I've watched the video disconnecting the stock cannister on the 990's. Is there something similar I can do with my RT?
Chuck
Canisterectomy performed 30,000 miles ago. No starting problems at all. 2014 RS-S now at 37,000 miles...
If I can't fix it, I will fix it so no one can fix it. Sypder Loco!
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